Candy Cane Crochet Wine Bag Pattern, My Fast 2025 Gift Idea

Easiest Candy Cane Crochet Wine Bag Pattern (Perfect Last-Minute Gift!)

Need a last-minute gift that still feels special? This crochet wine bottle gift bag is one of my favorite quick makes because it looks fun, personal, and handmade, but it’s simple enough to finish without stress. I use basic stitches, worsted-weight yarn, and an easy stripe trick that keeps the bag looking neat.

Why This Crochet Wine Bottle Bag Is My Go-To Last-Minute Gift

Fun, personal, and handmade (without looking “homemade”)

This bag has that cheerful candy cane vibe, and the best part is it looks polished when it’s done. The spiral stripe does a lot of the work for you.

If you’re taking photos for gifting or for a market table, this is the moment to snap a pic of the finished bag with a bottle inside. It’s one of those projects that photographs really well.

Works for any occasion and beginner-friendly

I designed this to be easy to follow, even if you are new to crochet. The shape is forgiving, the bag stretches to fit, and you can keep going until it’s the height you want.

I also love that it’s not only for wine. It’s great for:

• Olive oil
• Fancy vinegars
• Hot sauce
• Any tall “treat” bottle you’re giving as a gift

Reusable and looks store-bought

A reusable gift bag feels thoughtful, and it saves wrapping time too. I like that the recipient can re-use it later (or keep it on display in the kitchen).

A few bottle ideas that fit nicely:

• Wine bottle
• Olive oil bottle
• Vinegar bottle
• Any fun bottle with a similar shape

Your turn: color choice

What color do you use for your wine bag? Classic red and white, neutral, or something else bright and fun? I love seeing what everyone picks, especially when you swap the “candy cane” look for other color combos.

Supplies You’ll Need for This Easy Project

Yarn details (stash-buster friendly)

I’m using regular worsted-weight acrylic, size 4. This project doesn’t take much yarn, so it’s perfect for using up odds and ends.

Here’s what I used:

• Size 4 worsted-weight acrylic yarn
• 3 colors total: mostly red, a little white, and a scrap of green for the bow

If you want to match what I used for supplies, here’s the worsted-weight yarn I referenced.

If you’d like a related idea for bottle covers, I also have an Easy crochet bottle cozy pattern that’s made for quick DIY results.

Crochet hook

I’m using a 6 mm crochet hook for this bag.

Here’s the 6 mm crochet hook I referenced.

Other tools

You’ll also want:

• A needle to sew in your ends (a sharp tip needle helps)
• Scissors

Here are the sharp tip needles I referenced.

Color flexibility tip

Use any colors you like. The pattern stays the same, so you can make it traditional, modern, or totally wild.

If you’re setting up your materials, this is another good photo moment: yarn colors, hook, needle, and the bottle you plan to wrap.

Quick navigation (video timestamps)

If you like working section by section, these timestamps make it easy to pause and pick up later:

1. 0:00 Intro
2. 0:20 Supplies & yarn info
3. 1:41 Magic ring base
4. 7:03 Back post rib round
5. 7:58 Start candy cane stripe
6. 9:02 Spiral stripe pattern
7. 13:08 Build bag height
8. 14:55 Finish stripes & top
9. 16:34 Green tie & bow
10. 19:05 Add bottle & final look

Step 1: Starting With the Magic Ring Base

Magic ring vs. chain ring option

I start with a magic ring because it closes the center neatly. If you prefer, you can also do a chain ring (like chain 3 and join), but I recommend trying the magic ring at least once. It’s a handy skill for a lot of crochet projects.

Step-by-step magic ring (the way I do it)

I’ll walk through it the same way I explain it while crocheting:

1. Lay the yarn tail over my non-dominant hand, hold it down with my thumb (near my ring finger).
2. Wrap the yarn around my top two fingers, so it makes an X, then bring it around the third finger too (under my thumb).
3. Turn my hand over so I can see the short strand and the long strand.
4. With the hook facing down, slide the hook under the short strand and over the long strand.
5. Bring the long strand under the short strand, then turn the hook so it faces me and catches the yarn.
6. Let the yarn slide a bit under my thumb, then rotate the hook away and under that long strand.
7. Pinch under the hook, pull the long strand through the loop, and the ring is formed.

Troubleshooting the magic ring

If the ring feels awkward, I focus on two things:

• Keep the tail pinned down with my thumb at first.
• If the tail gets too short while I’m working stitches into the ring, I gently pull it. That shrinks the ring and gives me more tail to hold.

Chain 3 (doesn’t count as a stitch)

After the magic ring, I chain 3 (1, 2, 3). For this project, that chain doesn’t count as a stitch. I treat it like a spacer while I build the circle.

14 treble crochets into the center

Next, I make 14 treble crochets into the center of the ring, working over the tail.

A treble crochet is “wrap twice,” and then you do a triple takeoff:

1. Wrap yarn twice.
2. Insert into the ring, yarn over, pull up a loop.
3. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops.
4. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops.
5. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops.

Keep going until you have 14 trebles total (again, I’m not counting that chain 3).

Counting and closing tip

I count the actual trebles: 1 through 14. Then I pull the center tail to close the ring. With acrylic yarn, I can pull it snug without worrying about it snapping.

Slip stitch to join

To join, I slip stitch into the top of the first real treble crochet (not the chain). I go under both strands at the top of that stitch, then slip stitch.

Step 2: First Increase Round With Double Crochets

Chain 2 (doesn’t count)

I chain 2 (1 and 2). Just like before, this chain doesn’t count as a stitch for this pattern. It helps shape the round.

Two double crochets in the same stitch

In the very same stitch where I joined, I make 2 double crochets.

Continue around: 2 double crochets in each stitch

Now I work 2 double crochets into each stitch all the way around. This is the round that quickly builds the base width so the bag can fit around the bottom of a bottle.

When I get back to the start, I slip stitch into the top of the first real double crochet to join, right under both strands of the V at the top.

What you should see now

This round doubles your stitch count and gives you a solid, flat base that’s ready for a crisp bottom edge.

Step 3: Bottom Edge With Back Post Half Double Crochets

This is the round that gives the bag a finished edge at the bottom. It’s simple once you get into the rhythm.

After joining, I chain 2 again (small chains).

Back post half double crochet (what it means)

For a back post half double crochet, I work around the post of the stitch from the row below. I go in from the back, around the post, and back out the back.

Here’s the feel of it:

• I yarn over.
• I insert my hook before the post and bring it out after the post (from the back side of the work).
• Yarn over and pull through (3 loops on hook).
• Yarn over and pull through all 3 loops.

I do that around each stitch, all the way around. It makes a nice edge at the bottom that looks finished and a bit structured.

Switching yarn for the candy cane stripe (with 2 stitches left)

When I have two stitches left in that back post round, I switch colors.

This is my method:

• I leave the current color with a big loop (so it won’t unravel).
• I bring in my white yarn and make a loop.
• I start the next back post half double crochet, and I join with a slip stitch using both strands so it holds.
• Then I chain 2 (small chains, I don’t want them loose and tall).

Joining the round with a single crochet

To smooth the transition, I join into the top of the next stitch with a single crochet, then I begin building the stripe pattern that creates that spiral look.

Step 4: Starting the Candy Cane Stripe Pattern

This part is where the project starts to feel fast. Once the stripe rhythm is set, it’s mostly double crochet cruising.

The “smoothing” stitches after the switch

Right after joining, I work:

• 2 single crochets (one into each stitch)
• 2 half double crochets (one into each stitch)

Those stitches help the color change blend and keep the spiral smooth.

Then it’s double crochet around

After the single and half double stitches, I do:

• 1 double crochet into each stitch all the way around

When I get close to the big loop of the other color (the one I parked), I get ready to swap again.

The big loop trick (clean, simple color changes)

I keep a big loop of the yarn I’m not using, then:

• Pull up a big loop of the current yarn so it doesn’t tighten.
• Put my hook into the loop of the other color.
• Shrink the loop down to the right size.
• Continue crocheting.

It’s a simple way to switch without tangling or fighting tight joins.

Repeat the start-of-color rhythm

When I switch back, I repeat the same smoothing idea:

• Single crochet into the top of the chain 2
• Single crochet into the next stitch
• Half double crochet into the next 2 stitches
• Double crochet in each stitch around

Sew in tails early (it’s easier right now)

Before the bag gets tall, I like sewing in the tails that are easy to reach:

• The center tail from the magic ring
• The tail from joining the white stripe

I match the yarn color as I sew in, going up and down through the stitch path. It saves time later, and I don’t have to dig into a deeper tube to find those ends.

If you want more quick project ideas that use the same “finish fast, feel proud” approach, I keep a list here: Quick crochet ideas for beginners you can make in under an hour.

Step 5: Spiral Stripes and Building the Bag Height

Once the spiral is established, this becomes a relaxing project. I’m basically watching for the V’s on top of each stitch and placing double crochets neatly.

The main body is simple

For the sides of the bag, I keep going with:

• 1 double crochet into each stitch, working in rounds

I alternate colors as I go, switching back and forth between red and white to keep the candy cane stripe moving upward.

Row count guide (how tall to make it)

For my bag, I did 10 rows of white (counting after the join), and I finished in red. If you want it a little shorter, you can stop at 9 rows of white instead.

Here’s how I decide:

• If I want extra room at the top of the bottle neck, I make it a bit taller (10 rows).
• If I want the bottle top to peek out a bit more, I stop sooner (9 rows).

This is also where the project becomes customizable. Bottles aren’t all the same height, and that’s fine. Crochet stretches, and this bag doesn’t need to be perfectly fitted to look great.

Counting rows without stress

I count my rows after the join area. When I’m not sure where I am, I flatten the bag a bit and look at the stripe path. I just need to be in the same general area as where the spiral began. It doesn’t have to be exact to look good.

Covering the “slope” as I go

Where the yarn changes and the join area creates a tiny slope, I don’t panic. I simply keep placing my double crochets into the next stitches, watching for those neat V’s. The spiral smooths itself out as the bag grows.

Why the spiral stripe works so well

I like this method because it avoids fiddly steps:

• No turning rows
• No complicated joins every round
• No worrying about lining up a seam perfectly

It’s just steady crochet with a clean finished look.

If you’re into this “gift wrap that’s reusable” idea, you might also like my roundup of cozy, homey patterns that include bottle holders: easy cottagecore crochet projects with free patterns.

Step 6: Finishing the Top With Decreases

When the bag is tall enough (at least 9 rows of each color in the way I worked mine), I finish off the top so it lies flatter and looks intentional.

Line up near the start area

I flatten the bag and try to end my stripe in the same general area as where the spiral began. It doesn’t need to be exact, I just want it to look balanced.

White top finish: half doubles, singles, slip stitch

To finish the white section, I make:

• Half double crochet into one stitch
• Half double crochet into the next stitch
• Single crochet into the next stitch
• Single crochet into the next stitch
• Slip stitch

Then I chain 1 to secure the yarn, cut it, pull the yarn through, and snug it down. I tuck the tail inside for the moment.

Red top finish: work down and cover the slope

Now I put the red yarn back on my hook, and I work over that sloped area with half double crochets, one into each stitch.

When I reach the stitch where I slip stitched before, I go into that same stitch and make a half double crochet, covering the slip stitch as I go.

Then I finish similarly:

• 2 single crochets (one into each stitch)
• Slip stitch
• Chain 1 to secure, then cut with a long tail for sewing in later

At this point, I have a couple tails to sew in with a needle, and the top edge looks tidy and ready for the tie.

Step 7: Making the Green Tie and Bow

This tie is simple, but it adds so much. It turns the bag into an actual “gift bag” and keeps the bottle snug.

Triple up the green yarn

I use regular worsted-weight acrylic and triple it up (three strands together). You can also use a chunky yarn if you want, but tripling worsted works great.

This is how I triple it:

• I find the yarn tail and hold it.
• I bring a loop over so it matches the tail length.
• Now I have three strands together to use as one thick strand.

Slip knot with all three strands

I make a slip knot using all three strands, tighten it, and put it on my hook.

Chain 100 (or 70 for a shorter bow)

I chain 100 for a nice long bow. If you want it shorter, chain at least 70.

As the loop gets small while chaining, I keep it from slipping by:

• Putting my fingers through the loop
• Pulling up more yarn through the loop
• Smoothing the strands together
• Continuing to chain right over that join

When I’m done, I cut the yarn and pull the tail through to secure it.

Sew in the tie tails

With a needle (sharp tip is easiest), I sew the ends into the “fat” part of the chain. I use my fingers to make sure I’m not poking the needle through to the front side where it could show.

If I’m using a blunt tip needle, I just sew in a bit more and go back and forth to lock it in.

Step 8: Assembly and the Final Look

Now for the satisfying part.

Slide the bottle into the bag

I slide my bottle into the bag and pull the bag up. Crochet stretches, which is exactly what I want here. It hugs the bottle without needing a perfect custom fit.

Choose where the stripe looks best

I look for the area where the candy cane stripe begins and decide which side I want as the front. Honestly, it’s cute from every angle, so I don’t overthink it.

Attach the tie so it doesn’t fall off

I pick a spot around the neck of the bottle and loop the tie underneath one stitch. That way, when the bow is untied, the tie stays attached to the bag and doesn’t get separated.

Then I tie a bow at the back (or wherever I want the bow to sit), fluff it a bit, and it’s ready for gifting.

Extra Tips I Use While Making This Bag

Tail management (small habits that help)

A few things make the whole project smoother:

• If the tail gets short while working into the magic ring, I pull it slightly to tighten the ring and lengthen the tail.
• I sew in the center tail and early color-change tails before the tube gets tall.
• I tuck tails inside temporarily if I’m not ready to sew them yet.

Color switching without stress

I keep each color with a “big loop” when it’s resting. When it’s time to switch, I move my hook to the other loop and tighten it to the right size. This keeps the yarn from twisting up and also keeps my tension more even.

Stitch recognition keeps it neat

When I’m working the body, I’m just looking for the top V’s and placing one double crochet into each stitch. If the spiral area looks a bit bumpy while I’m switching colors, it smooths out quickly once I’m a round or two past the join.

The bottom edge makes it look finished

That back post half double crochet round is worth doing. It gives a defined edge that makes the bag feel more structured.

Adjust the height for your bottle

My rule is simple:

• Taller bag: more coverage and a little extra room at the top
• Shorter bag: bottle sticks out more, still looks cute

Resources and Next Steps

If you want to keep learning with me, these are the resources mentioned with the tutorial:

• Printable yarn option I referenced
• 6 mm crochet hook I referenced
• Sharp tip needles I referenced
• Left-handed tutorials playlist
• Subscribe to Secret Yarnery on YouTube
• Join the channel
• Free crochet cheat sheet
• My Amazon Store favorites

(As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.)

Conclusion

This candy cane crochet wine bag is one of those projects I come back to every year because it’s quick, useful, and it always gets a smile. With a simple base, an easy spiral stripe, and a chunky green tie, you end up with a reusable gift wrap that feels handmade in the best way. If you make one, I want to know what colors you chose, classic red and white, neutral, or bright and fun.

Left Handed?

FAQ: Candy Cane Crochet Wine Bag Pattern

Is this crochet wine bag beginner-friendly?

Yes. I use basic stitches and work in rounds, so it feels steady once you start. The spiral stripes look fancy, but the repeat is simple.

What stitches do I need to know?

You’ll use:

• Chain (ch)
• Slip stitch (sl st)
• Single crochet (sc)
• Half double crochet (hdc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Treble crochet (tr)
• Back post half double crochet (BPhdc)

Do I have to use a magic ring?

No. I like the magic ring because it closes tight, but you can start with a chain ring instead (chain 3 and join) if that feels easier.

What yarn works best?

I use worsted-weight (size 4) acrylic because it’s easy, affordable, and washable. Cotton also works, but it can feel less stretchy and a bit heavier.

How much yarn do I need?

Not much. It’s a small project, so it’s great for scraps. You’ll use mostly your main color (red), a little of the second (white), and a small amount of green for the tie.

What hook size should I use?

I use a 6 mm crochet hook. If you crochet tightly, you can go up a size. If you crochet loosely, go down a size.

Will it fit different bottle sizes?

Usually, yes. The bag stretches and the height is adjustable. It fits most standard wine bottles, plus many olive oil and vinegar bottles with a similar shape.

How do I make it taller or shorter?

Keep crocheting the body rounds until the height looks right for your bottle.

• Stop around 9 stripe rounds for a shorter bag.
• Go to about 10 stripe rounds for a taller bag.

My spiral stripe looks bumpy near the color change. Is that normal?

Yes. The “smoothing” stitches (single crochets and half double crochets) help, and the bump usually blends in after another round or two.

Do I need to cut the yarn every time I change colors?

No. I use the “big loop” method, so both colors stay attached and you just switch back and forth. It saves time and reduces ends to weave in.

How do I keep the colors from tangling?

Keep one color resting with a large loop and set it to the inside or back of your work. When you switch, grab the other loop and adjust it to the right size before you stitch.

How do I keep the bottom from flaring or looking wavy?

Make sure your base circle stays flat, and don’t add extra increases. The back post half double crochet round also helps define the bottom edge and adds structure.

Can I use different colors (not red and white)?

Absolutely. The pattern stays the same. Try:

• Black and gold for a fancy look
• White and silver for winter
• Pink and red for Valentine’s Day
• Team colors for a hostess gift

What can I use the bag for besides wine?

It’s great for tall gifts like:

• Olive oil
• Vinegar
• Sparkling cider
• Hot sauce
• Homemade syrups

How do I keep the tie from getting lost?

I attach it to the bag by looping it under one stitch near the top. That way, even if the bow is untied, the tie stays connected.

What’s the best way to weave in ends?

I like to weave in the early ends (magic ring tail and first color-change tail) before the bag gets tall. It’s easier to reach, and it keeps the inside neat.

Christa Patel is the creator behind Secret Yarnery, where she teaches crocheters how to make projects that look polished without feeling complicated. She shares step-by-step crochet patterns, video tutorials, and practical tips that help makers finish gifts fast and feel proud of the result.

Christa focuses on clear instruction, beginner-friendly methods, and real-world projects you can actually use, like gift bags, cozies, and quick makes for holidays and markets. Her tutorials are designed to be easy to follow, with simple stitch choices, smart shortcuts, and options to customize size and color.

You can find more of Christa’s crochet patterns and tutorials at secretyarnery.com and on the Secret Yarnery YouTube channel.