Easy Laced Up Heart Granny Square Sweater Crochet Pattern!

Laced-Up Hearts Crochet Shrug Sweater (Heart Granny Square, Bell Sleeves)

A crochet shrug is already a fun make, but this one has extra personality. It’s a heart granny square shrug sweater with a laced-up look across the shoulders and under the arms, plus laced-up bell sleeves that feel modern and cozy without being heavy.

The sample size shown finishes at about 56 inches sleeve-to-sleeve, and about 8 inches tall in the center back (that small “spine” area between the two panels). The best part is you can make it fit your body without math drama. Adjust the number of granny square rounds, and adjust the length of the lace-up chains, and the shrug changes size right along with you.

If you like wearable crochet that looks like you spent a lot of time (even though it’s mostly repeatable steps), this project hits that sweet spot.

Project layout and the sizing options that make this shrug work

This shrug starts with one heart motif per square, then each heart becomes a granny square, then the squares get joined into two long “stripes.” One stripe becomes the front, one becomes the back, and they’re laced together at the top and under the arms to turn the flat fabric into a sweater.

For the size shown, the layout is:

• 7 squares across for the front
• 7 squares across for the back
• 14 total heart granny squares

From there, sizing is simple because you have two easy levers to pull:

1) Change the granny square size (most important).
Make fewer rounds for a smaller shrug, make more rounds for a larger shrug. The video example uses three rounds total on each square (after squaring up the heart).

2) Change the lace-up chain lengths (fine-tuning).
Across the shoulders and under the arms, the join is done by zigzagging chains between loops, like shoelaces. Shorter chains snug things up, longer chains add room. You can even use this to adjust armhole comfort without rebuilding any squares.

If you want more heart-square ideas for other projects, this step-by-step crochet heart granny square tutorial is a great companion reference (different heart style, same granny square mindset).

Video timestamps (jump to what you need)

• 0:30 Project overview
• 0:55 Sizing options
• 1:42 Yarn and tools
• 4:00 Heart start
• 13:31 Square setup
• 29:48 Layout squares
• 34:47 Lace-up join
• 54:14 Mark armpits
• 1:27:32 Bottom edging

Materials and tools (plus yarn math that keeps it stress-free)

Everything in this shrug is made with regular worsted-weight yarn and an easy hook size, so it’s a comfortable project even if you’re newer to wearables.

Here’s what’s used in the tutorial:

• Worsted-weight acrylic yarn (size 4)
• 6 mm crochet hook
• 4 stitch markers (helpful for neckline and underarm placement)
• Scissors
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends

If you’re stocking up, the video description links to supplies here: worsted-weight yarn options, a 6 mm crochet hook, and sharp-tip yarn needles.

Yarn breakdown for the sample size

Acrylic is a nice choice here because it’s easy care, it holds up well in a wearable, and it keeps the lace-up joins from feeling too floppy.

Yarn color tip from the tutorial (worth hearing)

The sample squares use two rounds of white and one round of a very close cream. The effect is subtle. If your two shades are very similar, it may not show much. Using one consistent square color is totally fine, or choose a more contrasty border color if you want that “framed” look.

If you want a quick heart-square project before committing to a full shrug, the 15-minute heart granny square hack is a fun warm-up.

Crocheting the heart motif (the center of every square)

Each granny square starts with a small heart worked in the round, then shaped with taller stitches to form the curves and the point. You can start with a slip knot and a chain ring (or a magic ring if you prefer).

Heart, Round 1: build the base circle

1. Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
2. Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
3. Chain 2 (does not count as a stitch in this heart).
4. Work 11 double crochets into the center of the ring (crochet over the yarn tail if you can).
5. Slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet (ignore the chain 2).

You should have 11 double crochets, not counting your chain.

Heart, Round 2: increase for stitch count

1. Chain 2 (does not count).
2. Work 2 double crochets into the same stitch, then 2 double crochets into each stitch around.
3. At the end, add one extra double crochet into the stitch at the base of the chain so the total becomes 23 double crochets.
4. Slip stitch to the top of the first double crochet to join.
5. Chain 1.

That “make 23” detail matters, it helps the heart shape sit correctly when you start adding the curves.

Heart, Round 3: shape the curves and point

This is where the heart appears. You’ll work different stitch heights across the top bumps, then travel down into the point, then mirror back up.

The sequence in the tutorial (in plain terms) includes:

• A mix of half double crochet + double crochet into one stitch to start the curve
• Groups of two treble crochets into stitches to build the rounded top
• A run of single crochets across the top center
• Taller stitches again as you head back down toward the point
• Mirroring the same stitch pattern on the other side

At the end, slip stitch down into the “valley” area to pin it neatly, chain 1 to secure, and cut yarn.

Make 14 hearts for the sample shrug.

Counting stitches without second-guessing yourself

When counting, the tutorial method is simple: cover the starting chain with your thumb and count only the actual stitches. The key counts are 11 double crochets in the first round, then 23 double crochets after the increase round (excluding chains).

If you feel cramped in the ring, slide the stitches back on the ring before continuing so everything sits side-by-side.

Turning the heart into a granny square (and getting consistent corners)

Once the heart is finished, join your square color yarn and “square it up” by working into specific stitches around the heart. The tutorial has you start from the bottom point of the heart:

1. Find the bottom point, then skip 3 stitches, and join yarn in the 4th stitch from the bottom.
2. Chain 3 (counts as a treble crochet in the tutorial), then add two more trebles into the same stitch.
3. Work a mix of double crochet, half double crochet, and single crochet up one side of the heart, skip the chain at the top dip, then mirror down the other side.
4. For corners, you’ll create a classic corner with 3 trebles, chain 2, 3 trebles across the corner stitches/spaces used in the tutorial.
5. Work down the sides using the stitch heights shown, and in the center valley area, work 2 double crochets into that “knobby” join spot to keep the square shape.

After that, you add an additional round (and in the sample, a third round total) to make the squares the right size for the shrug.

The granny square round that makes everything match

The tutorial uses a clever consistency trick: after each corner, skip the first stitch and begin in the second stitch. This helps the stitch count line up like traditional granny square math, and keeps the sides clean.

Corner pattern for these rounds stays consistent:

• 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets in each corner space

Make all 14 squares the same size before joining.

If you’re curious about another wearable built from simple shapes, this easy 4 granny square sweater pattern is a good comparison project (different construction, same make-to-fit spirit).

Joining the squares into stripes with a braided join edge

This shrug uses a lacy edge that also functions as a join. First, you edge a square with chain spaces, then you “join as you go” to connect the next square into the same edging loops. The end result looks braided and airy.

Edging the first square (sets up the join)

1. Join yarn in a corner space.
2. Chain 4, then skip 3 stitches, and single crochet into the space after those stitches.
3. Repeat around: chain 4, skip 3, single crochet in the space.
4. At corners: single crochet, chain 4, single crochet into the corner space.
5. Slip stitch into the legs of the first stitch to join and secure.

This first square becomes the “anchor” square.

Joining the next square as you edge it (join-as-you-go)

Edge three sides exactly like the first square. On the fourth side, instead of a full chain 4 between spaces, you split it:

• Chain 2, then insert your hook into the matching loop on the finished square
• Put the loop back on your hook, then chain 2 again

So it’s still chain 4 total, it just locks through the loop on the neighboring square. Repeat this for each loop along the join edge, and keep your corners aligned by making sure you still work the corner single crochets properly.

Make one stripe of 7 squares for the front, and one stripe of 7 squares for the back.

For more shrug construction styles (different look, same cozy goal), you might enjoy this granny crochet shrug pattern.

Assembling the shrug with lace-up joins (shoulders and underarms)

This is the step that turns two flat stripes into something you can wear.

Lace-up join across the shoulders (neckline opening)

Lay the front and back stripes with the top of the center hearts facing each other, so the opening between them becomes the neckline.

Measure across your shoulders (bra strap area is a helpful reference). The tutorial’s neckline width is about 11 inches, with a reminder that crochet stretches, so don’t make it too wide.

To lace up:

1. Join yarn at the top edge corner area and chain 8.
2. Remove hook, insert into the matching loop on the opposite panel, pull loop through, and chain 8 again.
3. Continue crisscrossing down the neckline edge, decreasing chain lengths in the tutorial sequence (8, 8, 7, 7, 6, 6, then continuing with 6s).
4. At square joins, work into the loops before, in the middle, and after the join area so the lace-up stays centered.
5. As you move toward the outer shoulder, increase the chain lengths by one for each pair of loops (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, then 12 for the corner).

At the end, the tutorial adds small loops on top of the chain area (chain 4 and single crochet around the chain, repeated) to match the looped edging style used elsewhere.

Marking armpits and lacing up the underarms

Fold the shrug so front and back align. Decide where you want the underarm join to begin. In the tutorial, the join starts around the heart tip area, choosing the larger outer loop.

Mark the loops with stitch markers, try it on if you want, then lace-up join with chain 6 zigzags between loops. This chain count is adjustable:

• Fewer chains = a snugger armhole
• More chains = a looser armhole

At the joins, again work the before, middle, after loop placement so the lacing doesn’t drift.

If you want a broader set of wearable options after this shrug, this round-up of easy crochet sweaters for beginners is a helpful next bookmark.

Bell sleeve edging and the finishing rounds (neckline and hem)

The finishing is what makes this shrug feel polished. The sleeves get loops, then a fuller stitch round to create that bell shape. The neckline and bottom hem follow a similar “loops first, stitches second” approach.

Sleeve edging (loops, then fullness)

1. Work chain-4 loops into every space around the sleeve opening, including corners and the extra loops along the lace-up join. Each loop counts as a space.
2. Join, then work 3 half double crochets into each space all the way around.

Finding the spaces is easier than it sounds. In the tutorial, the trick is to place your hook right above the little single crochet “tick” and the space is right there.

The tutorial’s sleeve attitude is simple: more is better because that extra fabric is what makes it bell out.

Neckline loops and single crochet edging

The neckline gets matching loop clusters on both ends (three loops each end), then a loop round across the full neckline edge, then a round of 3 single crochets per space, with a small corner adjustment using a stitch worked together to turn cleanly.

Bottom hem (loops, half doubles with join shaping, then a stabilizing round)

The bottom edge is finished in three parts:

1. Loop round: chain 4 into each space around the entire hem, including both halves of each join.
2. Half double crochet round: work 3 half double crochets into each space, but tighten the lace-up join area with small decreases around the center loop (the tutorial uses a “start a stitch, start a stitch, finish together” method to keep it nice and tidy).
3. Single crochet round: one single crochet into every stitch around. This helps the hem hold its shape and not stretch out too much.

To explore other shrug and sweater styling ideas, this post on cozy crochet sweater ideas for women is a good scroll when you’re picking your next project.

Final finishing (and where to share your shrug)

Weave in your ends, especially around the joins and the lace-up areas. Once the tails are tucked, the structure looks clean and the lacing details stand out.

If you want to keep up with new tutorials, use the links from the video description: Secret Yarnery YouTube subscription link and the free crochet cheat sheet signup. The pattern and printable PDF are mentioned as coming soon in the video description, along with a left-handed tutorial.

When you share your finished shrug, use #secretyarnery20226 so it’s easy to find other versions and color ideas.

Conclusion

This shrug is proof that a wearable doesn’t need complicated shaping to look special. With 14 heart granny squares, a braided edge join, and lace-up seams, you get a sweater that’s cute, adjustable, and surprisingly relaxing to make once the repeats click. If you change only two things, square size and lace-up chain length, you can make it fit the way you want. Pick your colors, take it one section at a time, and enjoy the moment when it finally looks like a sweater, because that part never gets old.

Left Handed?

FAQs

1) Is this shrug beginner-friendly?

Yes, if you can do basic stitches (chain, single crochet, double crochet) and you are willing to repeat the same steps. The heart shaping is the “new” part, but it gets easier after the first one or two squares.

2) How do I make the shrug bigger or smaller?

You have two simple options:

• Bigger or smaller squares: Add more granny square rounds to make each square larger, or do fewer rounds to make them smaller.
• Adjust the lace-up chains: Longer chains give more room at the shoulders and underarms. Shorter chains make it snugger.

3) How many heart granny squares do I need?

For the sample size in the tutorial, you’ll make 14 heart granny squares total:

• 7 squares for the front stripe
• 7 squares for the back stripe

4) What yarn works best for this shrug?

The tutorial uses worsted-weight (size 4) acrylic, which is a great choice for an easy-care wearable. You can also use a wool blend, but make sure it is not too heavy or the shrug may stretch.

5) What hook size should I use?

The tutorial uses a 6 mm crochet hook. If your squares look tight or stiff, go up a hook size. If your squares look loose and floppy, go down a hook size.

6) My heart doesn’t look right. What should I check?

Two things help the most:

• Count your stitches: Round 1 should have 11 double crochets (not counting chains). Round 2 should end at 23 double crochets (excluding chains).
• Use the same tension on every heart: If one heart is much looser, it will look bigger and change your square size.

7) Do I have to do the lace-up join, or can I seam it normally?

You can seam it normally if you want a cleaner look. But the lace-up join is part of the style, and it also helps with fit. If you seam it, you lose that easy adjustability.

8) How do I keep the neckline from getting too wide?

Make the shoulder lace-up area a bit snug at first since crochet stretches. The tutorial mentions a neckline width of about 11 inches, but you should test it on your body and adjust your chain lengths.

9) How do I adjust the underarm fit?

That’s what the underarm lace-up is for. Use:

• Fewer chains between loops for a smaller armhole
• More chains between loops for a larger armhole
  Try it on before you finish the underarm lacing and move your stitch markers if needed.

10) Can I make the sleeves less “bell” shaped?

Yes. The bell shape comes from adding fullness in the sleeve edging. To reduce it:

• Work 2 half double crochets per space instead of 3, or
• Do one less “fullness” round

Christa Patel is the maker behind Secret Yarnery, where she shares crochet patterns, step by step tutorials, and wearable projects that are fun to finish and easy to customize. She focuses on practical techniques that help crocheters get a great fit without complicated shaping. When she is not designing with granny squares and bold color combos, she is teaching crochet on YouTube and helping makers feel more confident, one repeat at a time.

You can find more crochet tutorials, patterns, and project ideas at secretyarnery.com, and follow along on YouTube for the full video lessons.