How To Wash Crochet: Acrylic, Cotton, Wool (2026)

Crochet Care 101 (How to Wash Acrylic, Cotton, and Wool Without Ruining Your Work)

You shouldn’t have to choose between using your crochet items and keeping them pretty. With the right steps, you can wash crochet without stretching it out, pilling it up, fading the color, or turning soft wool into a stiff felted mat.

The catch is that acrylic, cotton, and wool behave differently in water and heat. Acrylic hates high heat, cotton can sag and shrink, and wool can felt if it gets rubbed or shocked with temperature changes. In this guide, you’ll learn how to wash, dry, reshape, and store each fiber so your stitches stay crisp and your work lasts.

One simple rule keeps you out of trouble: when in doubt, treat it like wool (cool water, gentle soap, minimal agitation, flat dry).

Before You Wash: 5 checks that prevent stretching, pilling, and color bleed

A two-minute check can save you hours of regret. Most crochet “damage” doesn’t happen because you used soap. It happens because something small was missed, then the wash magnified it.

1) Read the yarn label (fiber, symbols, heat limits)

If you still have the label, use it. It tells you the fiber content (or blend), plus whether machine wash and tumble dry are safe.

If you don’t have the label, treat unknown yarn like non-superwash wool: gentle hand wash, cool water, flat dry. That approach is slow, but it’s safe.

For extra context on general crochet washing approaches (especially when you’ve lost the label), this overview is helpful: How to Wash Crochet Items (Ultimate Guide to Handmade Care)

2) Look at the item type (blanket vs hat vs amigurumi)

A lacy shawl and a chunky blanket don’t move through water the same way.

Heavier items: blankets, large cardigans, long scarves. These can stretch under their own weight when wet. Plan to support them with both hands and dry flat.

Stuffed items: amigurumi, pillows. These can trap water inside and take longer to dry. Squeeze gently and plan for extra drying time in a well-ventilated spot.

3) Check for loose ends and quick repairs

Loose ends turn into wormy tails after washing, and weak seams can open when wet.

Do a fast scan:

• Tug gently on joins and seams.
• Re-weave any ends that look short.
• Snip fuzzy ends that are already working loose (then re-weave properly).

4) Test for color bleed (the damp white cloth test)

If you used deep reds, navy, or hand-dyed yarn, don’t guess.

Dampen a white cloth or paper towel with cool water. Press it on an inconspicuous area for 10 seconds. If color transfers, wash separately in cool water and keep soak time short. You can also rinse until water runs clear, then dry flat.

5) Remove hardware, or protect it

Buttons, tags, snaps, and metal charms can scratch other laundry or snag stitches.

Best practice: remove what you can. If you can’t, put the item in a mesh bag or pillowcase and tie it closed.

Simple supplies to gather first

• Mild detergent (fragrance-free is easiest on fibers)
• Basin or clean sink
• 2 to 3 clean towels
• Blocking mats, or a dry towel you don’t mind pinning into

Spot clean vs full wash: when you can skip the soak

Spot cleaning is like touching up a wall instead of repainting the whole room. If the problem is small, keep it small.

Spot clean when you’re dealing with light makeup marks, a drip of coffee on one corner, perfume, or a small food spot that didn’t soak through. Use a tiny amount of mild soap, dab with a cloth, and blot, don’t rub. Rubbing can fuzz acrylic, rough up cotton, and felt wool.

Full wash when there’s sweat, smoke, pet odor, body oils, or a spill that soaked deep into the stitches. If the smell lives inside the yarn, surface cleaning won’t touch it.

How to wash acrylic crochet items (blankets, hats, sweaters) without melting or fuzzing them up

Acrylic is durable and forgiving, which is why it’s everywhere. The problem is heat. Hot water, hot dryers, and direct ironing can flatten the fibers, create fuzz, or even melt the surface.

If you want a deeper acrylic-specific reference, this guide breaks down common acrylic care mistakes and what to do instead: How To Wash Acrylic Yarn Crochet: A Comprehensive Guide

Acrylic wash steps: hand wash for best stitch definition

Hand washing keeps the fabric calmer, which helps textured stitches and colorwork look cleaner.

1. Fill a basin with cool water.
2. Add a small amount of mild detergent, then swish the water to mix.
3. Submerge the item and press it down gently so water moves through the stitches.
4. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Gently swish a few times. Don’t scrub.
6. Drain and refill with cool water to rinse. Repeat until the water runs clear.

How to remove water without stretching

• Lift the item with both hands, supporting the weight.
• Press (don’t wring) to release water.
• Lay it flat on a towel, roll it up like a jelly roll, then press firmly.
• Unroll, move to a dry towel, and press again.

Then reshape edges with your hands and lay flat to dry. Acrylic can dry fairly fast, but thick blankets may take a day or two.

Avoid with acrylic: hot water, high heat drying, fabric softener buildup (it can leave a coating that dulls softness), harsh stain removers used full-strength, and ironing directly on the fabric.

Machine washing acrylic safely (when the yarn label says it is OK)

Some acrylic is made for the washing machine, but settings matter.

Use:

• Cold water
• Gentle or delicate cycle
• Low spin (or medium at most)
• Mesh bag for hats, baby items, and smaller pieces
• Wash with similar colors
• Skip bleach

Drying rules Air drying flat gives the best shape. If you need to use a dryer for a sturdy item (like a basic acrylic blanket), choose low heat and remove it while slightly damp. Finish flat to reduce static and fuzz.

How to wash cotton crochet items (dishcloths, summer tops, baby items) and keep them from shrinking

Cotton can handle more washing than wool, and it doesn’t melt like acrylic. Still, cotton has two common issues: it can shrink with heat, and it can stretch when wet.

That means the wash is often easy, but the moving and drying are where people accidentally distort a garment.

For a clear fiber-to-fiber comparison, this article lays out the differences in washing acrylic, cotton, and wool in one place: How to Wash Yarn: The Difference Between Acrylic, Wool, and Cotton

Cotton wash steps: everyday cotton vs delicate cotton

Not all cotton crochet should be treated the same way.

Everyday cotton (dishcloths, face scrubbies, towels)
These are made to be washed often.

• Machine wash cold, or warm if you’ve tested colorfastness
• Normal or gentle cycle
• Mild detergent
• Avoid bleach unless the yarn label allows it

Delicate cotton (garments, lace, heirloom baby items)
These pieces can stretch and lose shape if you’re rough with them.

• Hand wash in cool water
• Short soak (about 10 minutes)
• Gentle squeeze, then rinse well

A practical tip that matters more than it sounds: when cotton is wet, lift it with both hands like you’re carrying a tray. Holding it from one corner invites sagging and stretched straps.

Drying cotton the right way: stop shrinkage and keep edges straight

Heat is what shrinks cotton fast, and over-drying can make it feel stiff.

For garments and lace, air dry flat and reshape:

• Smooth edges with your hands
• Align seams
• Straighten straps and hems

If you use a dryer (best for sturdy dishcloths), choose low heat and remove the item while slightly damp. Lay flat to finish drying. This helps reduce shrinkage and keeps corners from curling.

If edges look wavy afterward, a light blocking session usually fixes it.

How to wash wool crochet items without felting, shrinking, or losing softness

Wool is warm, springy, and long-lasting, but it has one strict rule: don’t combine heat with friction.

Felting is what happens when wool fibers lock together from rubbing and temperature changes. Once it felts, you can’t “unfelt” it. That’s why wool care is about staying calm: cool water, gentle soap, and almost no movement.

If your yarn is a blend, follow the most delicate fiber in the mix. If it’s wool plus acrylic, treat it like wool.

Wool hand wash steps (the safest method for most wool)

This method works for most non-superwash wool and many wool blends.

1. Fill a basin with cool to lukewarm water (under about 86°F).
2. Add a wool-safe detergent, then mix it into the water.
3. Submerge the item and press gently to wet it through.
4. Soak for 10 to 15 minutes.
5. Lift and press water through the fabric. Don’t swish aggressively.
6. Rinse in water at a similar temperature, pressing gently. Avoid shocking it with hot then cold.

Water removal

• Press out water with your hands, no twisting.
• Roll in a towel and press firmly (you can stand on the rolled towel if it’s thick).
• Reshape and lay flat to dry away from heat and direct sun.

Never hang wet wool. Hanging pulls it longer and can leave shoulder bumps that don’t fully bounce back.

If the label says superwash wool: how to machine wash without surprises

Superwash wool is treated to resist felting, which makes it easier to wash. It still doesn’t love harsh cycles or high heat.

If your label allows machine washing:

• Use a wool cycle or hand wash cycle
• Cold water
• Gentle wool wash detergent
• Low spin or no spin if your machine is aggressive

Always air dry flat. Even superwash can grow if it’s dried with heat or hung wet.

If you’re gifting an item made from a new yarn, wash a swatch first. It’s the cheapest insurance you can buy.

Drying, reshaping, and storing crochet so it stays the right size

No matter the fiber, the biggest risks are twisting, hanging heavy fabric, and drying with too much heat.

Universal best practices

• Never wring your crochet like a towel.
• Never hang heavy items to dry.
• Reshape while damp, not after it’s stiff and dry.
• Store items clean, because stains and body oils can set over time.

Quick fixes that keep pieces looking fresh

• Odors: air outside in shade first. For stubborn smells, a gentle wash is usually better than spraying perfume (perfume can cling to fibers and attract dirt).
• Pilling: pills happen from friction, especially under arms and on blankets. Use a sweater comb or fabric shaver lightly, and don’t pull pills off by hand.
• Gifts: include a small care note with fiber type, water temp, and drying method. It turns a handmade item into a “kept” item.

Blocking after washing: when it matters and how to do it simply

Blocking sounds fancy, but it’s just shaping while damp.

It matters most for:

• Lace and openwork
• Garments (especially hems, necklines, and sleeves)
• Pieces that dried a little wavy

Simple wet blocking:

1. Lay the damp item on a towel or blocking mat.
2. Gently stretch it to the size you want, using a measuring tape if fit matters.
3. Pin edges if needed.
4. Let it dry completely before moving it.

Steam blocking caution

• Cotton: steam is usually fine.
• Acrylic: keep steam at a distance and use low heat. Too much heat can “kill” the bounce and make it drape permanently.
• Wool: steam can work, but don’t press down and rub. Heat plus pressure can shrink it.

Storage and long term care: prevent moths, yellowing, and mystery smells

Storage is where beautiful crochet can quietly go wrong. A slightly damp item sealed in plastic can come out smelling like a basement, and wool stored dirty can attract pests.

Good storage habits:

• Store only when fully clean and fully dry.
• Fold garments instead of hanging them.
• Keep items out of direct sun to reduce fading and yellowing.
• For wool, choose breathable storage (cotton bags or well-ventilated bins). Avoid sealing wool in plastic in damp spaces.

Cedar and lavender can deter pests, but don’t let sachets touch the yarn directly. Oils can stain fibers.

Seasonal storage checklist

• Wash (or at least air out)
• Dry flat completely
• Fold and support shape
• Label the fiber and wash method for future you

Conclusion

Crochet care gets simple when you stick to a few basics:

• Cool water, especially for wool and unknown yarns
• Mild soap, used sparingly and rinsed well
• Gentle handling and flat drying to protect shape

Most damage comes from heat and twisting, not from the detergent itself. If you’re unsure, make a quick care tag for your item and test-wash a swatch the first time you use a new yarn. Pick your fiber type above, follow the matching wash and dry method, and your crochet will stay soft, clean, and the right size.

FAQs

Can I machine wash crochet items?

Yes, sometimes. If the yarn label says machine washable, use cold water and a gentle cycle. When you are not sure, hand wash in cool water and dry flat.

Can I put crochet in the dryer?

It depends on the fiber. Acrylic can handle low heat sometimes (for sturdy items), cotton can shrink with heat, and wool should not go in the dryer. Air drying flat is the safest choice for all fibers.

What is the safest way to wash crochet if I do not know the yarn type?

Treat it like wool. Use cool water, mild detergent, very gentle handling, and lay it flat to dry.

How do I stop my crochet from stretching in the wash?

Do not wring it, and do not let it hang wet. Support the piece with both hands when lifting, press water out gently, roll it in a towel, then dry flat and reshape while damp.

How do I test for color bleeding?

Dampen a white cloth with cool water and press it on a hidden spot for 10 seconds. If dye transfers, wash the item alone in cool water and keep soak time short.

How often should I wash crochet blankets and garments?

Wash when it needs it, not on a schedule. Wash after spills, heavy sweat, or strong odors. Between washes, air it out in the shade.

What detergent should I use for crochet items?

Use a mild detergent. Fragrance-free is a safe choice, especially for baby items or sensitive skin. For wool, use a wool-safe wash.

Christa Patel is a crochet designer and maker who has spent years turning yarn into practical, giftable pieces that get used in real life. She shares clear, beginner-friendly tutorials and project guidance that help crocheters build skills, finish with confidence, and create items that last. Her work blends simple technique with thoughtful details, so readers can enjoy the process and feel proud of the results. You can find more patterns, tips, and tutorials at SecretYarnery.com.