When I first started crocheting, I wasted money on tools I thought were essential but never used. Now, after years of experience teaching crochet classes, I'll show you exactly what you need and what you can safely skip as a beginner. No fluff, no unnecessary purchases - just the straightforward guide I wish I'd had.

These are the non-negotiables that belong in every beginner's crochet kit:

1. One crochet hook - Size 6mm (US J/10) is ideal for learning
2. Light-colored worsted weight acrylic yarn - Easy to see and work with
3. Small sharp scissors - Manicure scissors from the dollar store work great
4. Blunt-tip yarn needle - For weaving in ends without splitting yarn
5. Two stitch markers - Even bobby pins or paperclips will do

I started with just these five items and made my first scarf. You don't need anything fancy or expensive - simple tools help you focus on learning the stitches.

Walking down the crochet hook aisle can be overwhelming, but here's what actually matters:

Aluminum hooks are the most affordable option. They grip the yarn slightly, which actually helps beginners keep control. The downside? They can make your hand tired after long crochet sessions. I still keep a few in my travel bag.

Ergonomic hooks were my first upgrade. The rubberized handles are easier on your hands, but cheaper sets tend to wear out quickly. The grips start sliding off after a few months of heavy use.

Clover Amour hooks became my holy grail. Yes, they cost more upfront, but they last years without wearing out. The smooth glide makes stitching easier, and they're comfortable for marathon crochet sessions. If you're serious about learning, invest in one quality 6mm hook rather than a cheap set.

Specialty hooks like light-up or bamboo versions might look appealing, but they're not worth it when starting. Focus on mastering basic stitches before exploring fancy tools.

Choosing yarn as a beginner feels like walking through a candy store - everything looks tempting! Here's how to avoid common pitfalls:

Skip textured yarns with pom-poms, eyelash fibers, or thick-and-thin variations. They make it impossible to see your stitches clearly. Fuzzy yarns like chenille are equally frustrating because you can't easily undo mistakes.

Worsted weight acrylic (size 4) is the gold standard for beginners. It's:

• Affordable (so you won't cry over mistakes)
• Easy to frog (crochet slang for undoing work)
• Available in countless colors
• Durable enough for practice

Color matters more than you think. Dark navy or black yarn hides your stitches, while pure white can be just as tricky. Go for light or bright colors - think lemon yellow, sky blue, or soft lavender. These shades make each stitch definition pop.

Fancy embroidery scissors look adorable in photos but here's my secret: manicure scissors from the dollar store. For $3, you get:

• Razor-sharp blades that cut yarn cleanly
• Compact size that fits in any project bag
• Pointy tips perfect for detailed work
• No tears when they inevitably get lost (because they will)

I keep several pairs stashed in different project bags. The floral-patterned ones are my current favorites - proving practical doesn't have to mean boring.

Plastic needles seem convenient but break easily, especially when working with tight stitches. The broken tip often goes unnoticed until your carefully woven end comes loose.

Clover bent-tip needles changed my crochet life. The slightly angled tip glides through stitches smoothly, and the eye grips yarn securely. Unlike plastic versions, these metal needles last for years. They're worth the extra few dollars for the frustration they save.

Save sharp-tip needles for when you're more experienced. They create nearly permanent joins that are hard to undo - great for finished projects but stressful when you're still learning.

Before buying specialized markers, raid your home for:

• Bobby pins - The rubberized tips grip yarn perfectly
• Paperclips - Slide one end into your stitch
• Short yarn pieces - Loop through and tie loosely

Plastic stitch markers are handy but not essential. I started with two bobby pins marking the first and last stitches of each row - it kept my edges straight while learning.

Once you've mastered the basics, these tools can enhance your crocheting:

Neck lights illuminate dark yarn better than light-up hooks. The adjustable arms let you direct light exactly where needed - perfect for nighttime crochet sessions.

Mini carpenter's tape measures stay rigid when measuring blankets, unlike floppy sewing tapes. The 6-foot length handles most projects.

Altoid tins organize needles, markers, and other small tools. Customize with cute button pulls on homemade needle threaders.

Project baskets keep works-in-progress contained. Small laundry baskets or dollar store containers work beautifully.

Don't waste money on these until you're hooked (pun intended):

Yarn swifts and ball winders are only needed for hanks of fancy yarn. Beginners should stick with ready-to-use skeins.

Fancy yarn cutters seem convenient but regular scissors work fine. I nearly ruined a seatbelt with a pendant cutter - consider yourself warned!

Pom-pom makers and specialty scissors wait until you're making decorative items. Focus on fundamentals first.

1. Start with one quality 6mm hook
2. Choose light-colored worsted acrylic yarn
3. Use household items as stitch markers
4. Practice chain stitches until comfortable
5. Move to single crochet swatches
6. Celebrate every completed row!

The joy of crochet comes from creating, not collecting tools. With just a hook, yarn, and determination, you'll be making beautiful things faster than you think. What project excites you most to try first?

Learning how to hold your crochet hook and yarn might seem trivial, but it's a cornerstone for comfortable and successful crocheting. The way you grip your hook and manage your yarn can significantly impact your tension, speed, and overall enjoyment of the craft. This post is  designed to guide you through finding the most comfortable and efficient ways to hold your hook and yarn.

Before we get into holding techniques, let's talk about your hook. You can start with any hook you have, but it's important to understand its features.

Aluminum Hooks: Aluminum hooks often have a flat spot. This flat spot is designed as a thumb rest, allowing for a more comfortable grip. This is a common feature on many aluminum hooks, so take a look at yours!

Ergonomic Hooks: Ergonomic hooks also typically have a flat spot for your thumb, and they're designed with comfort in mind. These hooks often feature shaped handles that reduce strain on your hands, making them ideal for longer crochet sessions.

Take a moment to examine your own hooks. Do they have a flat spot for your thumb? Recognizing this feature can help you better understand how to hold the hook for optimal comfort and control.

There are two primary ways to hold your crochet hook: the knife grip and the pencil grip. Let's explore both!

Knife Grip: Imagine you're cutting dinner with a knife. The knife grip involves holding the hook in a similar fashion, with your palm facing down. This grip can provide a lot of power and control, especially when working with thicker yarns or tighter stitches.

Pencil Grip: Now, think about writing with a pencil. The pencil grip involves holding the hook much like you would a pencil, with your fingertips guiding the hook. This grip often offers greater precision and maneuverability, making it ideal for intricate stitch work or delicate yarns.

The best way to determine which grip works best for you is to experiment. There's no "right" or "wrong" way to hold your hook – it all comes down to personal preference and comfort. Try both grips and see which feels more natural in your hand. Practice some simple crochet motions, like creating a chain stitch, with each grip to get a feel for how they perform.

Ultimately, the best hook hold is the one that feels most comfortable for you. Don't be afraid to experiment with both the knife grip and the pencil grip on different types of hooks. You might find that you prefer one grip for aluminum hooks and another for ergonomic hooks. Remember, comfort is key to avoiding hand strain and fatigue, so take the time to find a hold that feels good in your hand.

In crochet, each hand has a specific role to play. Let's break it down:

Dominant Hand (Hook Hand): Your dominant hand is only in charge of the hook. Its sole purpose is to manipulate the hook and create stitches. Seems simple, right?

Non-Dominant Hand (Yarn Hand): Your non-dominant hand, on the other hand, has a more complex job. It's responsible for holding the work and managing the yarn. This hand has a lot to do, which can be tricky, especially when you're first starting out.

Think of your dominant hand as the "obedient" hand, simply following instructions. Meanwhile, your non-dominant hand is the "star," juggling multiple tasks to keep the yarn flowing smoothly.

Coordinating your non-dominant hand can be one of the most challenging aspects of learning to crochet. This hand is responsible for holding the work in progress, controlling the yarn tension, and guiding the yarn onto the hook. It's a lot to manage! But don't worry, it takes time and practice to develop these skills. I have free crochet classes to help you better manage your yarn.

One popular yarn holding method involves using your pinky and pointer finger to control the yarn. Here's how it works:

Description: Start by scooping the yarn up with your pinky finger, wrapping it around the finger to create some tension. Then, scoop the yarn up with your pointer finger, guiding it towards the hook.

Tension Control: The key is to find a balance between tension and looseness. You want to be able to pull the yarn smoothly without it being too tight or too loose. If the yarn is too tight, it can cause hand fatigue. If it's too loose, your stitches might be uneven. Aim for a "controlled" but "relaxed" yarn flow.

Finding the right tension is a process of trial and error, so don't get discouraged if it doesn't feel perfect right away. With practice, you'll develop a feel for the right amount of tension for different yarns and stitch patterns.

Don't be afraid to explore different yarn routing options! There's no single "right" way to hold your yarn.

Behind or In Front: Try routing the yarn behind your fingers, in front of your fingers, or even in between your fingers. See how each option affects your tension and control.

Comfort and Control: The ultimate goal is to find a method that's both comfortable and controlled, allowing you to slowly pull the yarn without it being too loose or too tight.

You can even try wrapping the yarn on one finger and weaving it through another. The possibilities are endless! The key is to find what works best for you.

Once you've found a yarn holding method that you like, you can assign the remaining fingers on your non-dominant hand to hold the work. This can feel awkward at first, but it will become more natural with practice.

The fingers that aren't actively involved in guiding the yarn can be used to support the project, keeping it stable as you work. Remember, your non-dominant hand isn't used to being a main component in the craft, so it might take some time to adjust.

It takes time for your non-dominant hand to adapt to its new role. Be patient with yourself and don't get discouraged if it feels awkward at first. Remember, your non-dominant hand is used to being a support hand, not the star of the show!

Take breaks when needed to avoid frustration. And most importantly, be kind to yourself throughout the learning process. You can also try some of the easy crochet tutorials I have on my YouTube channel.

The most important thing is to experiment and try different methods until you find what works best for you. Don't be afraid to try new things and don't feel pressured to do it "right" the first time. Crochet is all about creativity and self-expression, so embrace the freedom to find your own unique way of holding the hook and yarn.

Here are a few tips to take your crochet to the next level:

• Posture: Good posture is important while crocheting. Sit in a comfortable chair with good back support.
• Lighting: Good lighting can reduce eye strain. Use a bright lamp or crochet in natural light.
• Breaks: Taking frequent breaks is good to stretch your hands and wrists. Set a timer to remind yourself to take breaks.
• Tools: Use ergonomic hooks and comfortable yarn to reduce strain. I have many must-have tools I use and recommend.

Even with the best techniques, you might encounter some common issues:

• Tight Tension: Tight tension can cause hand fatigue. Try a larger hook or consciously relax your grip.
• Loose Tension: Loose tension can result in uneven stitches. Try a smaller hook or consciously tighten your grip.
• Yarn Slipping: If the yarn is slipping, use a yarn with more grip or try a different yarn holding technique.
• Hand Pain: If you experience hand pain, stop immediately and consult a doctor if the pain persists.

Different yarn fibers can greatly affect your crocheting experience. Here's a quick rundown:

• Wool: Wool offers warmth, elasticity, and a unique texture. However, some people can be sensitive to wool.
• Cotton: Cotton is soft, breathable, and durable. But it can be less forgiving than wool.
• Acrylic: Acrylic is affordable, widely available, and easy to wash. Sometimes, it can feel a bit synthetic.

Starting with a smooth, easy-to-handle yarn like worsted weight acrylic or cotton is often recommended for beginners.

The material of your crochet hook can also impact your comfort and ease of use.

• Aluminum: Aluminum hooks are affordable and widely available. They can sometimes feel cold to the touch.
• Bamboo: Bamboo hooks are warm and smooth. They tend to be more expensive than aluminum.
• Plastic: Plastic hooks are lightweight and come in fun colors. They might not be as durable as other materials.

Experiment with different hook materials to discover what you prefer.

Yarn weight refers to the thickness of the yarn, and it greatly influences the stitch definition and drape of your finished project.

• Common Yarn Weights: Common yarn weights include lace, fingering, sport, DK, worsted, bulky, and super bulky.
• Hook Size Correlation: Different yarn weights require different hook sizes. Always check the yarn label for recommended hook sizes.
• Experimentation: Experiment with different yarn weights to see how they affect your projects.

I encourage you to join a crochet community for support and inspiration! There are online forums, social media groups, and local crochet clubs where you can connect with fellow crocheters. My Facebook Group is a great place to get you started. Connecting with other crocheters allows you to share tips, ask questions, and celebrate your successes.

The video is a great start, but don't stop there!

• Written Patterns: Written crochet patterns are an invaluable resource. You can find the written patterns on The Secret Yarnery website.
• Crochet Books: Crochet books offer in-depth instructions and stitch dictionaries.
• Online Courses: Structured learning is easier with online crochet courses.

The most important thing? Practice, practice, practice!

Crochet patterns often use abbreviations. Common ones include sc (single crochet), dc (double crochet), ch (chain), and sl st (slip stitch). Create a cheat sheet of common abbreviations for easy reference.

Understanding the basic parts of a crochet stitch (the loop, the post, the top) can help you visualize how different stitches are formed. It will also help you understand how to hold the yarn and hook. Visualizing the stitch anatomy will also make it easier to spot and fix mistakes.

Blocking is the process of shaping and setting your finished crochet projects. It can significantly improve the drape and appearance of your work. Different blocking methods work best for different fibers, so do some research to find the right approach for your project.

There are many additional crochet classes that I offer. Here are some popular ones you can find on my YouTube channel:

• Secret Stitches CAL 2021 here
• Easy Crochet Blankets here
• Easy Crochet Tutorials here

Above all, remember to embrace the joy and satisfaction of creating something with your own hands. Crocheting is a journey, so enjoy the process of learning and creating.

Mastering the crochet yarn hold, learning about crochet hooks, and understanding these tips are great for beginners who want to take their crochet to the next level.

Choosing a comfortable hook grip, understanding the roles of each hand, experimenting with different yarn holding techniques, and being patient with yourself will help you become a better and more comfortable crochet artist. Remember to also check out my YouTube channel, and remember to subscribe to get notified of my latest videos.

In the next class, I’ll be doing a chain stitch, so stay tuned. If you haven't subscribed to my channel already, go ahead and hit that subscribe button down below and the notification bell beside that so you don't miss out on any more quick and easy tutorials just like this. Thanks so much for hooking along, and stay hooked!

Today’s lesson is all about two foundational crochet skills:

✔ Making a slip knot (the magical starting point of every crochet project)
✔ Creating a chain stitch (the backbone of most crochet patterns)

Whether you’re brand new to crochet or just need a refresher, this guide will walk you through each step with patience, humor, and plenty of yarny wisdom.

Before we begin, gather your supplies:

• Yarn – I’m using a 4-weight worsted acrylic, but any medium-weight yarn will do.

• Crochet hook – A 6mm (size J/10) is my personal favorite, but a 5mm (H/8) or 5.5mm (I/9) works too.

• Scissors (for later, but good to have nearby).

• A sense of adventure (mandatory).

Pro Tip: Always start from the center pull of your yarn skein—it keeps your tension smoother and prevents the dreaded "yarn barf" (you’ll thank me later).

Every crochet project begins with a slip knot—a simple loop that secures your yarn to the hook. Here’s how to make one without summoning a yarn tornado:

1. Leave a tail (about 5-6 inches) for weaving in later.

2. Lay the tail over your non-dominant hand (left hand for righties, right hand for lefties).

3. Wrap the working yarn (the yarn attached to the ball) around two fingers, forming a loose X.

4. Flip your fingers and poke the working yarn under the loop—gently pull it up.

5. Test it:

   • Pull the working yarn → Loop tightens or loosens.

   • Pull the tail → Nothing happens (if it does, you’ve created a magic trick, not a slip knot).

6. Slide it onto your hook and tighten just enough so it’s snug but not strangling the hook.

💡 Still confused? Watch me do it in real-time here.

Now that your slip knot is secure, it’s time to chain (ch). Think of this as crochet’s version of stretching before a workout—essential for what comes next!

1. Hold the hook in your dominant hand and pinch the tail with your non-dominant hand.

2. Yarn over (YO) by pushing the hook down and behind the working yarn.

3. Rotate the hook upward (11:30 position) so the hook faces you.

4. Pull the yarn through the loop—don’t yank! Let the yarn glide smoothly.

5. Slide the new loop onto the thick part of the hook (not the skinny neck—that’s a rookie mistake).

Pro Troubleshooting:

• Too tight? Relax your grip. Your hook should move freely.

• Too loose? Adjust tension by holding the yarn slightly firmer.

• Twisted chains? Make sure each loop faces the same direction.

Fun fact: A chain that’s too tight is like wearing jeans after Thanksgiving dinner—uncomfortable and hard to work with.

Your mission (should you choose to accept it):
✅ Make a 10-inch chain for practice.
✅ For an extra challenge, try a 36-inch (90cm) chain—this will prep you for Class 4, where we’ll dive into turning chains and basic stitches!

If your chain looks more like a rollercoaster than a straight line, frog it (rip it out) and try again. Yarn is forgiving—no judgment here!

Congratulations! You’ve just unlocked two essential crochet skills. Keep practicing, and soon, chaining will feel as natural as breathing.

The single crochet stitch is simple, versatile, and forms the foundation for countless projects. I'll guide you through crafting your very first coaster using this essential stitch and break down each step with clarity and patience. By the end of this post, you'll not only have a cute coaster but also a solid understanding of single crochet.

Before we dive in, let's gather our supplies. Having everything ready will make the process smooth and enjoyable. Here's what you'll need:

• Yarn: Four weight worsted acrylic yarn is ideal for beginners. It's easy to work with and comes in a wide array of colors.
• Crochet Hook: A 6mm crochet hook is a great starting size for beginners, this size pairs well with the recommended yarn weight.
• Stitch Markers: You'll need two stitch markers. These little helpers keep track of your first and last stitches in a row, which is especially useful when you're just learning.
• Scissors: Any pair of scissors will do.
• Darning Needle: This is for weaving in the ends of your yarn to give your finished coaster a neat and polished look.

While these are the essentials, there are a few other tools that can make your crocheting experience even better. A tape measure can help you check the size of your coaster as you go, ensuring it turns out just right. A well-lit workspace is important, consider a neck light for better visibility.

Every crochet project begins with a slip knot. Don't worry, it's easier than it sounds!

1. Lay the yarn tail over your non-dominant hand.
2. Wrap the yarn around two fingers, creating an "X".
3. Flip your hand over and use your crochet hook to pull the working yarn under the loop.
4. Pull the working yarn to tighten the loop on your hook.
5. Make sure the working yarn is what adjusts the size of the loop.

Congratulations, you've made your first slip knot! It's the magical beginning of every crochet adventure.

Now, let's create the foundation for our coaster by chaining 10 stitches.

1. Place the loop from your slip knot on the hook and adjust it to the correct size. You want it snug, but not too tight.
2. Yarn over (wrap the yarn around the hook from back to front).
3. Pull the yarn through the loop on the hook to create a chain.
4. Repeat this process ten times, creating ten chain stitches.
5. Keep your chains nice and relaxed. Avoid pulling too tightly on the yarn, as this can make your coaster too small.
6. Move your hands up as needed to maintain a comfortable working position.

What happens if your chains are too tight or too loose? If they're too tight, your coaster will be stiff and difficult to work with. If they're too loose, your coaster might end up floppy and misshapen. Aim for a happy medium!

Before moving on, let's double-check that you have the correct number of chains. Accuracy is important in crochet, as a mistake early on can throw off the whole project.

1. Do not count the initial knot or the loop currently on your hook. These aren't considered chain stitches.
2. Count the "V" shapes that form the chain. Each "V" represents one chain stitch.
3. Make sure you have a total of ten chains.

If you find you have more or less than ten, simply unravel your chain and try again. It's better to fix it now than to discover the mistake later!

We're almost ready to start single crocheting, but first, we need to chain one additional stitch.

1. Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook to create one more chain.
2. This extra chain does not count as a stitch.
3. It simply gives us the height we need for the first row of single crochet.

Think of it as a little stepping stone that allows us to reach the next level!

Now comes a slightly trickier part: identifying the back loops. These are what we'll be working into to create our first row of single crochet.

1. Turn your chain to the side so you can see the top and back more easily.
2. Locate the "camel bumps" or "Loch Ness bumps" on the back of the chain. These are the back loops we're looking for.
3. The first back loop is right underneath the working yarn.
4. The second, third, and fourth loops are located along the back of the chain.

These back loops might seem small and insignificant, but they're essential to creating a neat and even fabric.

Now for the exciting part: the first single crochet stitch!

1. Insert your hook into the second back loop from the hook.
2. Skip the first back loop directly under the working yarn.
3. Push the hook through the back loop.
4. Yarn over (wrap the yarn around the hook from underneath).
5. Pull the yarn through the back loop. You should now have two loops on your hook.
6. Yarn over again and pull the yarn through both loops on the hook.
7. This completes your first single crochet stitch.
8. Size all of your loops on the fat part of your hook to ensure consistency. This helps create an even fabric with consistent tension.

What if you can't get your hook into the back loop? This usually means your chain is too tight. Try using a larger hook size for your foundation chain, or try to keep your tension a little looser as you chain.

Let's mark that first single crochet stitch. This will help us keep track of our rows and ensure we're crocheting the correct number of stitches.

1. Pull the loop on your hook up a little bigger and remove the hook.
2. Identify the "lasso" around the yarn that you just pulled up. This is your first single crochet stitch.
3. Place a stitch marker into this stitch to mark it.

Stitch markers are your best friends when you're learning to crochet. They prevent mistakes and keep you organized.

Now that you've made your first stitch, let's continue single crocheting into each back loop across the chain.

1. Locate the next back loop along the chain.
2. Insert your hook into the back loop.
3. Yarn over and pull through the back loop (two loops on hook).
4. Yarn over and pull through both loops (one loop on hook).
5. Repeat this process for each back loop until you reach the end of the chain.
6. Make sure your thumb stays on those "V's" to keep the chain turned correctly. This helps maintain the proper orientation of your work.
7. You should have ten single crochet stitches at the end of the row.

Each stitch brings you closer to completing your coaster!

Sometimes, it's helpful to see a technique performed slowly. Krista provides a slow-motion demonstration, allowing you to observe each movement.

• Use the slow-motion to carefully watch how she grabs the yarn and turns the hook.
• Pay close attention to how she sizes the loops on the hook. This is key to achieving even tension.

Don't forget to work into that very last back loop! It can be easy to miss, but it's important for maintaining the correct stitch count.

1. The last back loop can be a little tricky to see because it's right on top of the knot.
2. Place your thumb on the "V's" and tilt your work to the side to reveal it.
3. Make one single crochet stitch into this last back loop.
4. This completes your first row of ten single crochet stitches.

You're doing great! Just a little more, and you'll have a complete row.

Just like we marked the first stitch, let's mark the last stitch of the row with another stitch marker.

1. Pull up a bigger loop and take your hook out.
2. Identify the lasso around the loop you're holding. This is the last stitch of the row.
3. Place a stitch marker into this stitch.

These markers act as guideposts, ensuring you stay on track.

Now, let's take a moment to count your stitches and make sure you have the correct number.

1. Count the "V" shapes along the row.
2. You should have ten stitches between the two stitch markers.
3. If you have more or less, you may need to carefully unravel the row and redo it.

It might seem tedious, but counting your stitches regularly can save you a lot of frustration in the long run.

Time to chain one and turn your work, getting ready for the second row.

1. Put the hook back into the loop and shrink it down.
2. Chain one stitch (yarn over and pull through).
3. Turn your work by bringing it back towards you. This positions you to work back across the row.

This chain one acts as a turning chain, giving your row the height it needs.

Let's begin the second row of single crochet stitches. This time, we'll be working into the stitches from the previous row.

1. Insert your hook into the first stitch, which is the same stitch as the stitch marker.
2. Yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
3. Yarn over and pull through both loops (one loop on hook).
4. Mark the first stitch of the row with the stitch marker.
5. Locate the "dimples" or spaces between each stitch along the row. These are where you'll be inserting your hook.
6. Insert your hook into each "dimple" or stitch.
7. Yarn over and pull through (two loops on hook).
8. Yarn over and pull through both loops (one loop on hook).
9. Repeat this process for each stitch across the row.
10. You should have ten single crochet stitches at the end of the row.

What if you make a mistake? Don't worry, it happens to everyone! This is where the term "frogging" comes in – rip it, rip it! Carefully unravel your stitches back to the mistake, and then redo them correctly.

Pay attention to your hand positioning and movement. Efficient handwork can make crocheting more comfortable and faster.

• Krista uses her pointer finger to adjust and hold her yarn, maintaining consistent tension.
• She also uses her non-dominant hand to keep track of where she's working, ensuring she doesn't miss any stitches.
• She moves her fingers back to clearly see the next stitch.
• Her ring finger is underneath her work, pushing up the stitch.
• Her thumb moves underneath the work to hold the stitch while sizing loops.

Ergonomics is important to avoid straining your hands. Take breaks, stretch your fingers, and maintain good posture.

Let's revisit the slow-motion segments to really understand the rhythm and flow of single crochet.

• Focus on how Krista pushes the loops onto the thick part of the hook. This ensures consistent loop sizes and even fabric.
• Observe how she wraps the yarn and brings it through both loops in one smooth motion.

Repetition and observation are key to mastering any new skill.

Be sure to work into the last stitch of the row, just as you did in the first row.

1. Locate the stitch where you placed the stitch marker.
2. Insert your hook into the same spot as the stitch marker.
3. Make your last single crochet stitch of the row.
4. Move the stitch marker to the last stitch you just completed.

Consistency is what makes a great finished product.

Now, repeat row two over and over to create the desired height for your coaster.

1. Continue single crocheting back and forth, ten stitches per row.
2. Remember to chain one and turn at the end of each row.
3. The stitch markers are there to help you find the first and last stitches.

Each row adds to the texture and thickness of your coaster.

With practice, you'll be able to identify the first and last stitches without relying on stitch markers.

1. The first stitch is right after the chain one at the beginning of the row.
2. The last stitch has a little hill on top of it.
3. With a little bit of experience, you'll be able to easily spot these stitches.

This is a sign that you're becoming a more confident crocheter!

Continue crocheting until you have completed twelve rows.

1. This will create a coaster of the appropriate size for most cups and glasses.

Of course, you can always adjust the number of rows to make your coaster bigger or smaller, depending on your preference.

Let's count your rows to ensure you've reached the magic number of twelve.

1. Hold your work to the side and give it a slight pull to more easily see the rows.
2. The first row is the small bit worked into the chain.
3. Do not count the chain one at the beginning of the rows.
4. Count each row until you reach twelve.

You're almost there! Just a few more steps, and your coaster will be complete.

At the end of the twelfth row, it's time to secure your work.

1. Chain one stitch (yarn over and pull through).
2. This chain one will turn into a knot to secure the work and prevent it from unraveling.
3. Cut your yarn, leaving a long enough tail to sew in with a needle (about four inches).
4. Pull your hook up and your yarn through the loop.
5. Snug the knot down to secure it.

This final chain is like adding a lock to a door, ensuring everything stays in place.

Now for the final step: weaving in those yarn tails. This is what gives your coaster a professional, finished look.

1. Thread the yarn tail onto a darning needle.
2. Work the tail back down into your work, avoiding the very edge.
3. Go into the next row to start sewing in the tail.
4. Pull the needle through, but don't pull too tightly.
5. Give the corner a little stretch to make sure it looks nice and even.
6. Go back and forth along the row about three times.
7. Make sure you're not going into the exact same spot each time.
8. Pick a slightly different path each time to secure the tail.
9. A sharp-tipped needle only needs to be worked twice, a blunt tip will need to be sewn in three times.
10. Cut the excess yarn tail close to the work.
11. Repeat this process for the other yarn tail at the beginning of the coaster.

What happens if your yarn tail isn't long enough? Simply tie on a new piece of yarn and continue weaving it in as described above.

Congratulations! You've completed your first single crochet coaster!

1. It will want to curl up a bit – that's just what single crochet does.
2. Find the way it wants to curl, and use it the other way.
3. Flatten it down a little bit to help it keep its shape.

Now, pour yourself a drink, put it on your new coaster, and admire your handiwork!

I'd love to see your finished coasters!

• Share your finished products on social media.
• Use relevant hashtags to share your work with the community.

Connecting with other crocheters is a great way to get inspiration and support.

Want to learn more crochet skills?

• Links to the playlist for crochet classes can be found on The Secret Yarnery YouTube channel.

There's a whole world of crochet waiting to be explored!

Don't forget to subscribe and connect on social media!

• Subscribe to The Secret Yarnery's YouTube channel for more crochet tutorials.
• Find Krista on Instagram, Facebook, and other social media platforms for 1) behind-the-scenes content and updates.

With these skills, you are now ready to begin your crochet journey. Keep practicing, and soon you will be crocheting up a storm.

We're focusing on the half double crochet stitch, perfect for beginners looking to expand their skills. Together, we'll create a sweet little coaster while mastering this versatile stitch that's taller than single crochet but shorter than double crochet.

The half double crochet (HDC) creates a fabric that's denser than double crochet yet works up faster than single crochet. It's ideal for projects like blankets, scarves, and especially coasters where you want some thickness without too much bulk. Many beginners find it easier to control than taller stitches, making it a great next step after mastering the basics in our beginner's crochet guide.

For this crochet class project, you'll need:

• Worsted weight yarn (I'm using Saver from Ice Yarns)
• 6mm (J) crochet hook
• Two stitch markers
• Yarn needle
• Scissors

The worsted weight yarn works well for beginners - it's thick enough to see your stitches clearly but not so bulky that it's difficult to handle.

Let's begin with the slip knot:

1. Wrap yarn around two fingers forming an X
2. Flip your hand and tuck the working yarn under the loop
3. Pull up gently, leaving a tail about twice your needle's length

Now chain 10. Remember:

• Don't count the knot or loop on your hook
• Count the "V" shapes - you should have 10 clear loops
  If chains give you trouble, check out our guide on starting your crochet journey for help.

Chain 2 more (this gives height for the HDC), then turn your work. You'll be working into the back loops of your foundation chain, looking for the "camel bumps" along the back.

Here's the HDC magic:

1. Yarn over - push hook onto working yarn and bring it under and up
2. Insert hook into the third back loop
3. Yarn over again and pull through (now 3 loops on hook)
4. Yarn over once more and pull through all 3 loops

That first stitch is your foundation. Mark it with a stitch marker by identifying the "lasso" around your working yarn - both strands of that V get marked.

Continue the HDC stitch pattern across:

• Find the next back loop ("camel bump")
• Yarn over before each insertion
• Keep stitches loose enough for easy hook movement
• Finish by marking your last stitch

If stitches feel too tight:

• Hold work under where yarn emerges
• Tip hook upward to stretch loops
• Don't pull yarn too tightly after completing stitches

At row's end:

1. Chain 2 (not counted as a stitch)
2. Turn work with working yarn underneath
3. First stitch goes into marked stitch from previous row
4. Mark new first stitch immediately

Subsequent rows use "dimples" rather than back loops - insert hook straight down into these spaces. Flip work to check you're catching both strands of the V.

Continue until you have 8 complete rows. To finish:

1. Chain 1 (secures the knot)
2. Cut yarn, leaving 3-4 inch tail
3. Pull hook up and yarn through
4. Weave in ends neatly

Your coaster should measure about 8 rows high with consistent tension throughout. If stitches vary, don't worry - this first project is about building muscle memory.

1. Maintain loose tension - tight stitches make hook insertion difficult
2. Count stitches - 10 per row including marked first/last stitches
3. Watch your height - the chain-2 at each row start keeps edges even
4. Practice the rhythm - yarn over, insert, yarn over, pull through (3 loops), yarn over, pull through all

For those wanting to explore more beginner-friendly projects, we've got crochet basics for beginners that build on these fundamentals.

Now that you've mastered HDC:

• Try alternating colors each row
• Experiment with different yarn textures
• Scale up to make dishcloths or small blankets
• Combine with single crochet for textured patterns

Remember, every expert was once a beginner. Each stitch builds your confidence and skill. I'd love to see your finished coasters - feel free to share them with our crochet community!

When I first started learning crochet, the double crochet stitch felt like a game changer. It's taller than a single crochet, works up faster, and creates beautiful texture. In this crochet class for beginners, I'll walk you through every step to nail this essential stitch while making a simple coaster.

Before we dive in, let's gather our supplies:

• Worsted weight yarn - I'm using Saver from Icy Yarns
• 6mm crochet hook (also called a J hook)
• Two stitch markers - These help track your first and last stitches
• Yarn needle - For weaving in ends when we're done
• Scissors

If you tend to crochet tightly, consider using a slightly larger hook just for your starting chain. This prevents the foundation from being too tight to work into later.

Every crochet project starts with a slip knot. Here's how I make mine:

1. Lay the yarn tail over my non-dominant hand
2. Hold it down while wrapping around two fingers to make an X
3. Poke the working yarn under the loop
4. Pull it up gently and adjust the size

Now chain 10. I don't pull my yarn tightly - those chains should stay relaxed. Count the little V shapes (not counting the knot or what's on your hook). You should have 10 chains when you're done. If you're short, don't worry. Just carefully unravel and try again.

The double crochet stitch is taller than others we've learned, so we need to create some height first. Chain 3 more. This gives us the same height our double crochets will have. Those three chains count as our first "stitch" in many patterns, though for this project, we won't count them that way.

Work one double crochet into each remaining chain. Keep an eye out for those back bumps - they can hide sometimes! If your hook won't go through easily, your starting chain might be too tight. That's why I suggested using a larger hook just for the foundation.

When you reach the end, make sure to put your final double crochet into that last chain. Mark this stitch too, because our edges can get tricky to identify later.

Chain 3 (this gives us height for the new row) and turn your work. The double crochet in the marked stitch will be our first stitch of the new row. Remove the marker temporarily if it's in your way.

Work one double crochet into each stitch across. The tops of your double crochets make little "dimples" that are easy to spot once you know what to look for. When you reach the end, your last stitch will be into that marked stitch from the previous row. Move your marker up to mark this new stitch.

Continue this pattern until you have six full rows. Here's how to count your rows:

• Each horizontal line of V's counts as one row
• The starting chain doesn't count as a row
• Your turning chains create a little bump that might look like an extra row, but they're part of the row below them

When you've completed six rows:

1. Chain 1 (a smaller chain than we've been doing)
2. Cut your yarn, leaving about 6 inches for weaving
3. Pull the yarn through to secure the last stitch
4. Use your yarn needle to weave in both ends

Many beginners notice their edges look bumpy from the chain-3 turning chains. If you prefer cleaner edges, try:

• Using a chain-2 instead (still works for double crochet height)
• Trying an alternative turning method (we'll cover this in a future class)

Remember, this pattern uses chain-3 because most patterns do. It's good to practice the standard before exploring alternatives.

Now that you've mastered the double crochet, you're ready for so many projects! This stitch creates beautiful blankets, scarves, and more. I'd love to see photos of your finished coasters - share them with our crochet community.

Looking for more beginner-friendly projects? Check out my [Easy Crochet Blanket Ideas]

https://secretyarnery.com/blogs/patterns/10-quick-and-easy-crochet-blanket-pattern-for-beginners) that build on these skills. Keep practicing, and soon these stitches will feel completely natural. Stay hooked!

If you're learning how to crochet and want to expand your stitch knowledge, the treble crochet is your next step. This tall, airy stitch works up quickly and creates beautiful texture. Let's walk through making a simple treble crochet coaster!

Before we start, gather these supplies:

• Yarn: I used Saver from Ice Yarns (worsted weight, size 4 acrylic)
• 6mm J hook
• Two stitch markers
• Scissors
• Darning needle

The worsted weight yarn gives great stitch definition, perfect for seeing your progress.

Every project begins with a slip knot. Here's how:

1. Lay the tail over your non-dominant hand
2. Wrap yarn around two fingers, forming an X
3. Tilt fingers and hook working yarn under the loop
4. Tighten gently and place on hook

Make sure it slides easily—tight knots make crocheting harder.

Chain 10 stitches:

1. Hook under yarn, twist to face you
2. Pull through loop
3. Repeat 9 more times
4. Keep chains loose

If chaining feels awkward, my beginner crochet class covers it in detail. Always work on the fatter part of your hook for even tension.

For treble crochets, chain 4 extra after your initial 10:

• These extra chains count as your first treble crochet
• They create height before turning the work
• Unlike simple stitches, trebles need more space

Roll your chain to see the back bumps—that's where we'll work.

Find the fifth chain from your hook (skip the first four):

1. Yarn over hook twice
2. Insert into fifth back bump
3. Pull yarn through (four loops on hook now)
4. Yarn over, pull through two loops
5. Repeat twice more

This "triple takeoff" is what makes treble crochet unique.

Place a marker in your first treble stitch—it helps track rows later. Continue:

• One treble in each remaining chain (10 total)
• Keep consistent tension
• Watch how the stitches form taller Vs than double crochet

That chain four at the start? Don't work into it—it's just for height.

Problem: Stitches feel too tight
Fix: Use a bigger hook for just the starting chain

Problem: Hooks snagging
Fix: Always push loops to the wider hook part

At the row's end, mark your last stitch. Beginners often miss it.

For our coaster, we'll make four total rows:

1. Chain 4, turn
2. Treble into each stitch (including marked ones)
3. Move markers up each row

Turn work by sliding hand under yarn—it keeps edges neat. See how the "little dimples" show where to insert your hook next? Those are your stitch tops.

After the last row:

1. Chain 1 to lock stitches
2. Cut yarn, leaving 5" tail
3. Pull hook up to secure
4. Weave ends with needle

Notice the loopy sides from chain 4 turns? Using chain 3 instead makes straighter edges, but chain 4 is standard for treble crochet.

This stitch:

• Works up 30% faster than double crochet
• Creates great drape for blankets
• Perfect for lacy summer tops

Ready for more? Check out my complete beginner course where I compare all basic stitches.

Stay Hooked! Now that you know how the treble crochet works, what will you make first?

Let's dive into the four basic crochet stitches every beginner should master - it's the foundation that'll help you tackle any crochet project with confidence.

Crochet is built on four fundamental stitches that create different heights and textures. Here's how they're named in US and UK terminology:

In US terms:

• Single crochet (sc)
• Half double crochet (hdc)
• Double crochet (dc)
• Treble crochet (tr)

In UK terms:

• Double crochet (dc)
• Half treble crochet (htr)
• Treble crochet (tr)
• Double treble crochet (dtr)

When I made my practice swatches, I used the exact same number of stitches and rows for each - 10 stitches wide and 6 rows tall. This let me clearly see how the height changes everything.

This is the shortest and most compact stitch. It creates a dense fabric perfect for:

• Pot holders
• Structured bags
• Tight-fitting garments

The height of single crochet is exactly half of a double crochet stitch. If you think of double crochet as a two-story building, single crochet is the ground floor.

This middle-ground stitch offers more height than single crochet but stays tighter than double crochet. Great for:

• Dishcloths
• Scarves
• Blankets that need structure
• Projects needing medium drape

What's fascinating is that half double crochet is half the size of a treble crochet stitch.

The workhorse of crochet stitches, double crochet gives you:

• Faster project completion
• Nice drape for wearables
• Versatility for countless patterns
• Balanced texture

When you combine the height of single crochet and double crochet together, it equals the height of a treble crochet stitch.

The tallest of the basic stitches creates:

• Open, lacy fabrics
• Quick vertical growth
• Dramatic drape
• Lightweight projects

It's wonderful for summer shawls, lacy blankets, and airy garments that need to breathe.

Turning chains are crucial because they provide the necessary height when you start a new row. Here's the breakdown:

Stitch (US) Turning Chain

I love how these numbers create a logical progression as the stitches get taller. The turning chain isn't just a formality - it's what keeps your edges straight and your work at the proper height.

Your choice of stitch dramatically affects your project's size. A blanket made with single crochet will be smaller than one made with treble crochet using the same number of stitches. Always check your gauge when substituting stitches in patterns.

Shorter stitches make firmer fabrics while taller stitches create flowy drape. Think about:

• Single crochet for structured bags
• Double crochet for cozy sweaters
• Treble crochet for light summer wraps

Learning to identify stitches helps you read patterns better. Here's a quick reference:

US Term US Abbrev UK Term UK Abbrev

Once you've mastered these basics, experiment with:

• Mixing stitches in one project
• Trying different yarn weights
• Adding color changes
• Learning advanced stitch variations

The best way to improve is practice. Make swatches, compare them side by side, and get comfortable with how each stitch feels in your hands.

Remember - every complex pattern builds on these basic stitches. When you understand their heights and characteristics, you'll approach new projects with confidence. Stay Hooked!

You've spent hours working on your crochet project, carefully forming each stitch with love. Now comes the moment that makes or breaks your project - weaving in those loose ends. I'll show you how to finish your work so securely that no tail will ever work its way free.

A sharp-tipped chenille needle has become my secret weapon for weaving. The size 14 needles glide through yarn fibers without splitting them. If you prefer blunt tips, those work too - the key is finding what feels natural in your hand. Keep both types in your crochet toolkit.

Before threading, check your tail length. It should stretch at least twice your needle's height. Anything shorter becomes frustrating to work with. When in doubt, leave more - you can always trim excess later.

The golden rule? Work away from edges. I guide my needle straight down through the middle of a stitch, using my finger underneath to check positioning. Pull the yarn through with gentle tension - too tight distorts your perfect stitches.

Here's my professional technique:

1. Weave horizontally through several stitches
2. Reverse direction without retracing your path
3. Change angles to create friction points
4. Repeat this back-and-forth pattern three times

Watch how the yarn behaves as you work. A slight give when you stretch the fabric shows ideal tension. For stubborn short tails, use the needle's eye to coax yarn through tight spots rather than the point.

Openwork crochet requires different tactics. Look for clusters where multiple stitches of the same color meet - these make perfect anchor points. I weave tails beneath existing stitches rather than through them to maintain delicate laciness.

Corners offer natural weaving paths. Follow the yarn's outline along the turn, securing tails with those same trusted back-and-forth motions. The key is matching your weaving path to the basic crochet techniques used in your project.

Always match your needle thread color to surrounding stitches - this hides ends better than magic. For colorwork projects, weave each tail into its corresponding color section. When working with variegated yarns, choose the dominant color in that area.

Washing tests your work. If ends peek through after blocking, lightly tug surrounding stitches to redistribute the yarn. For absolute security on wearables, split thick tails and weave each ply separately.

Once you've mastered basic weaving, explore advanced securing methods like the duplicate stitch technique. It creates invisible finishes for lightweight projects where bulk matters most.

Remember - beautiful crochet deserves beautiful finishes. With these techniques, your ends will stay put through years of use and washing. Now go weave with confidence, knowing your hard work will remain as perfect as the day you completed it.

Have you ever wondered if there's a "right" way to turn your crochet work? It turns out there is! And it can make a huge difference in the look and feel of your finished project. I'm going to share a simple yet essential crochet tip that will elevate your edges and make working into your chains a breeze. Consider this Crochet Class, but in blog form. We're going to cover the technique taught in Crochet Class 10, but there's much more to discover in the full Crochet Classes playlist if you're looking for more beginner tips.

So, why is the way you turn your crochet work so important? It all comes down to the appearance of your edges and how easily you can work into that last stitch, the turning chain. When you turn your work correctly, you create neat, even edges that give your projects a professional finish.

Think of it this way: Imagine you're building a brick wall. If you don't align the bricks properly, the wall will be crooked and unstable. The same principle applies to crochet. Messy edges can make your projects look less polished, even if the rest of your work is perfect.

And it's not just about looks! Turning correctly also sets you up for success in more complex patterns later on. A solid foundation of basic techniques will make those intricate designs much easier to handle.

Okay, so what's the secret? It's all about a simple hand movement that makes a world of difference. Here's my method for turning your work for optimal results:

1. Complete your turning chain before you turn.
2. Slide your hand underneath the working yarn.
3. Grab your work and turn it.

Why does this work? By sliding your hand underneath the yarn, you're positioning the chain so it's perfectly aligned for easy access when you start your next row. It ensures that the "V" shape of the chain is facing you, making it simple to insert your hook.

The turning chain serves a vital purpose: it brings the yarn up to the height of the next row. The number of chains you make usually depends on the stitch you're using. For single crochet, it's typically one chain; for half double crochet, two chains; and for double crochet, three chains.

It's super important to complete the chain before you turn. This keeps your stitch count accurate and prevents your work from becoming distorted. Think of the turning chain as part of the height of the next stitch, and therefore it needs to be completed before you turn.

This is where the magic happens. By putting your hand under the working yarn, you're manipulating the yarn and turning chain to be in the correct spot. This ensures that when you turn the work, the chain is perfectly positioned for easy access.

Now, for the turn! With your hand still underneath the yarn, grab your work and turn it in one fluid motion. The goal is to position the chain so it's ready to be worked into without any fuss.

The ultimate goal is to have the "V" of the turning chain facing you, ready to be worked into. This makes it easy to insert your hook and create a clean, even edge.

This is where my turning method really shines. Because you've positioned the chain correctly, working into it is now a breeze!

1. Identify the loop facing you on the turning chain.
2. Insert your hook into that loop.
3. You should now have two strands of the chain on top of your hook.

By inserting your hook into the correct loop, you're creating a clean, finished edge that looks professional and polished.

Even with the best techniques, sometimes things can go wrong. Here are some common turning problems and how to fix them:

Problem 1: Tight Edges

• Solution: Make sure your turning chain isn't too tight. Consider using a larger hook for the turning chain only.

Problem 2: Loose/Gappy Edges

• Solution: Ensure your turning chain has enough height for the stitch you're using. Adjust the number of chains if needed.

Problem 3: Difficulty Finding the Chain

• Solution: Use a stitch marker to mark the first stitch of each row. This makes it easier to locate the turning chain when you come back to it.

Problem 4: Slanted Edges

• Solution: Double-check that you have the correct number of stitches and turning chains in each row. Blocking your work can also help even out edges.

And of course, if you're still having trouble, rewatch the video! Seeing the technique in action can often clarify any confusion.

As I mentioned earlier, the number of chains in your turning chain depends on the stitch you're using. Here's a quick guide:

• Single Crochet: Usually 1 chain.
• Half Double Crochet: Usually 2 chains.
• Double Crochet: Usually 3 chains.

However, keep in mind that some patterns might specify different numbers of chains or even alternative turning methods, like the chainless turning. Always follow the pattern's instructions for the best results.

Once you've mastered the basic turning method, you can explore some more advanced techniques:

• The Chainless Turning Method: This is an alternative to the traditional turning chain. It can provide a cleaner look in some cases.
• Working in the Back Loop Only (BLO) or Front Loop Only (FLO): When working in BLO or FLO, turning affects your edges differently. Some patterns may require special turning techniques for these stitches.
• Turning in the Round: Turning works differently when crocheting in the round. Instead of turning at the end of a row, you typically join the last stitch to the first and continue working in the same direction.

To get the best results in crochet, you'll need the right tools and materials. Here are some of my must-haves:

• Yarn: For beginner projects, I recommend using a smooth, light-colored yarn in a medium weight (like worsted weight).
• Crochet Hooks: A set of hooks in various sizes is essential. Start with sizes H/8 (5 mm), I/9 (5.5 mm), and J/10 (6 mm).
• Scissors: Sharp scissors are a must for cutting yarn.
• Stitch Markers: Stitch markers are incredibly useful, especially for beginners. Use them to mark the first stitch of each row, the beginning of a round, or any other important point in your pattern.
• Tapestry Needles: These are used for weaving in your yarn ends.

I have a longer list of my favorite tools, check out the YouTube video description for my Crochet Must Haves.

Want to practice your turning technique? Try this simple scarf pattern:

• Row 1: Chain 20, single crochet in the second chain from hook and across (19 stitches).
• Row 2: Chain 1 (turning chain), turn, single crochet in each stitch across (19 stitches).
• Repeat Row 2 until desired length.

Remember to use the "underneath hand" turning method to create even edges. Focus on maintaining consistent tension and counting your stitches at the end of each row.

Here are a few more tips to help you on your crochet journey:

• Tip 1: Tension is Key: Maintain consistent tension for even stitches and edges.
• Tip 2: Count Your Stitches: Count your stitches at the end of each row to avoid mistakes.
• Tip 3: Don't Be Afraid to Frog: "Frogging" (ripping out your work) is a normal part of crochet. Don't be afraid to undo your work and start over if you make a mistake.
• Tip 4: Practice Makes Perfect: The more you crochet, the better you'll become.
• Tip 5: Find a Crochet Community: Connect with other crocheters for support and inspiration. Join my Facebook Group to ask questions, share your projects, and connect with other yarn enthusiasts!

If you enjoyed this crochet class, I invite you to join The Secret Yarnery community! Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more quick and easy tutorials, project inspiration, and behind-the-scenes content. You can also become a channel member for exclusive perks and content. Check out the channel membership here. Join our Facebook group too!

Want to learn more crochet techniques? Check out my other crochet classes on YouTube.

Be sure to check out the written patterns available on The Secret Yarnery's website for more crochet inspiration.

Want to see what goes on behind the scenes at The Secret Yarnery? Check out my behind-the-scenes content for a glimpse into my creative process, daily life, and upcoming projects.

Show your love for crochet with The Secret Yarnery's merchandise! Visit my merch store for t-shirts, mugs, stickers, and more.

I hope this tutorial has helped you master the art of turning your crochet work. Remember, practice makes perfect, so keep crocheting and experimenting with different techniques. Now you can confidently tackle any Crochet for Beginners: Your Step-by-Step Guide project! Stay Hooked!

Have you ever started a crochet project, only to find that the beginning edge is tighter than the rest? It's a common problem: the dreaded tight foundation chain. A tight chain can ruin a project, causing it to be uneven, difficult to work into, and it can even prevent it from laying flat. But don't worry! There are ways to fix this frustrating issue and achieve a perfect, even start to your crochet creations. This post is based on Crochet Class #11.

In this guide, I'll share two effective methods for fixing a tight foundation chain, ensuring your projects start off right. So grab your hook and yarn, and let's get started!

The foundation chain is the very first row you create in most crochet projects. It's the base upon which all subsequent rows are built. Think of it as the foundation of a house; it needs to be solid and even to support everything else. The length of your foundation chain determines the width of your project, making it a crucial element in achieving the correct size and shape.

A foundation chain that's too tight can cause a multitude of problems. Imagine trying to build a house on a wonky foundation – things are bound to go wrong! Here are some common issues caused by tight chains:

• Uneven Tension: The most noticeable problem is uneven tension in your project. The beginning edge will be tighter and less flexible than the rest.
• Difficulty Inserting Your Hook: A tight chain makes it incredibly difficult to insert your hook into the chain stitches, leading to frustration and sore fingers.
• Project Doesn't Lay Flat: Projects with tight foundation chains often curl up or ripple at the beginning, preventing them from laying flat.
• Stiff Edge: The starting edge becomes stiff and inflexible, which is especially problematic for garments or blankets that need to drape nicely.

It can be discouraging, especially for beginners. But don't let a tight chain get you down! There are easy fixes and I am here to help.

How do you know if your chain is too tight? Here are two key indicators to watch out for:

Are you struggling to get your hook into the chain stitches? If you're really having to force your hook into the chain, it's likely too tight. It shouldn't require excessive force or wiggling. If you find yourself wrestling with your hook every time you try to work into a chain stitch, that's a major red flag.

Another way to tell if your chain is too tight is to compare its stretch to the stretch of the row of stitches above it. They should have a similar give. If the chain has significantly less stretch than the row above, it's too tight.

Here's how to test the stretch:

1. Pull gently on the foundation chain.
2. Pull gently on the row of stitches above the chain.
3. Compare the amount of stretch in each.

If the foundation chain feels stiff and unyielding compared to the looser, more flexible row above, you know it's time to make a change.

One of the simplest ways to fix a tight foundation chain is to use a larger hook just for the chain. It's a quick and easy adjustment that can make a world of difference.

Using a larger hook creates larger chain stitches, resulting in a looser foundation. This provides the necessary stretch and makes it easier to work into the chain. It's like using a bigger spoon to scoop ice cream – you get a bigger, easier scoop!

The general rule of thumb is to use a hook that is one or two sizes larger than the hook you're using for the rest of the project. For example, if you're using a 6mm hook for your project, try using a 7mm or 8mm hook for the foundation chain.

Here's how to use the larger hook method:

1. Select a crochet hook one or two sizes larger than what the pattern recommends.
2. Create your foundation chain with the larger hook.
3. Switch back to the original hook specified by the pattern.
4. Continue crocheting as usual with the original hook.

After creating your foundation chain with the larger hook, test the stretch again. The chain should now stretch more evenly with the rest of the fabric. You should also find it much easier to insert your hook into the chain stitches.

If you're looking for a more advanced technique that completely eliminates the problem of tight chains, try a chainless foundation. It might sound intimidating, but it's a valuable skill to learn.

A chainless foundation is a technique that creates the foundation chain and the first row of stitches simultaneously. This means you don't have to work into a separate chain at all! It's like killing two birds with one stone.

There are several benefits to using a chainless foundation:

• Eliminates Tight Chains: Because you're not creating a separate chain, there's no risk of making it too tight.
• Creates a Stretchy Edge: Chainless foundations create a very stretchy and even edge, perfect for projects that need to drape well.
• Easier Starting: Some crocheters find it easier to start a project with a chainless foundation than with a traditional chain.

There are different types of chainless foundations, each suited for different stitches:

• Chainless Single Crochet Foundation (CSSC)
• Chainless Double Crochet Foundation (CSDC)
• Chainless Half Double Crochet Foundation (CSHDC)

Chainless foundations can be a bit tricky to learn at first. They require more practice and attention to stitch placement than a traditional chain. However, the benefits are well worth the effort.

Which method is best for you? Here's a quick comparison to help you decide:

• Easier for beginners.
• Quick and simple to implement.
• Doesn't require learning a new technique.

• More advanced, but offers superior results.
• Creates the stretchiest and most even edge.
• Ideal for projects where a flexible edge is crucial (e.g., garments, blankets).

I encourage you to experiment with both methods to see which one you prefer. Every crocheter has their own unique style and preferences!

Here are some general tips to help you avoid tight chains in the first place:

Tension is one of the biggest causes of tight chains. If you're holding the yarn too tightly, your stitches will naturally be tighter. Practice keeping your grip loose and flowing. Imagine you're holding a delicate butterfly – you want to hold it securely, but not crush it!

Incorrect stitch counts can lead to tension issues. Make sure you're counting your stitches correctly and following the pattern accurately.

Yarn with a lot of texture or fuzz can make it harder to create even stitches. Opt for smooth, easy-to-work-with yarns, especially when you're just starting out.

In summary remember:

• Relax your hands.
• Count your stitches.
• Use smooth yarn.

A good foundation chain leads to a "square" and even start to your project. This sets the stage for a well-shaped and professional-looking finished item. It's like starting a race on a level playing field – everyone has an equal chance of success.

Sometimes, even using a larger hook isn't enough to completely solve the problem of a tight chain. Here are some possible causes and alternative solutions:

• Your individual tension is naturally very tight.
• The yarn you're using is particularly stiff or unforgiving.

• Try going up two hook sizes instead of one.
• Experiment with different yarn brands or fiber types.
• Consider using a chainless foundation technique.

The number of chains you need for your foundation chain can vary depending on the type of stitch you're using. Here's a quick guide:

• Single Crochet: Typically requires one chain.
• Double Crochet: Typically requires two chains.
• Half Double Crochet: Typically requires three chains.
• Treble Crochet: Typically requires four chains.

These extra chains, called turning chains, allow the project to be the right height.

Gauge is a measurement of stitches and rows per inch or centimeter. It's essential to check your gauge before starting a project to ensure that your finished project will be the correct size.

Here's how to check your gauge:

• Crochet a small swatch of the pattern.
• Measure the swatch to see if it matches the gauge listed in the pattern.
• If your swatch is too small, try using a larger hook.
• If your swatch is too big, try using a smaller hook.

A foundation chain that is too loose can be just as problematic as a tight chain.

• Gaps or holes at the beginning of the project.
• A stretched-out and misshapen edge.

• Use a smaller hook for the foundation chain.
• Pay closer attention to your tension and pull the yarn slightly tighter.

Here are some common crochet abbreviations to help beginners understand patterns:

• ch - chain
• sc - single crochet
• hdc - half double crochet
• dc - double crochet
• tr - treble crochet
• sl st - slip stitch
• st(s) - stitch(es)
• rep - repeat
• inc - increase
• dec - decrease
• rem - remaining
• beg - beginning
• RS - right side
• WS - wrong side

Here are the different yarn weights:

• Lace: Very fine, often used for delicate projects.
• Fingering: Lightweight, good for socks and baby items.
• Sport: Slightly heavier than fingering, versatile for various projects.
• DK (Double Knit): A popular medium weight, suitable for garments and blankets.
• Worsted: A common, all-purpose weight, easy to work with.
• Aran: Heavier than worsted, creates a thicker fabric.
• Bulky: Thick and quick to work up, ideal for warm accessories.
• Super Bulky: Very thick, projects work up very fast.
• Jumbo: The thickest yarn, used for large, statement pieces.

Here are the different fiber types of yarn:

• Wool: Warm, durable, and elastic; great for winter garments.
• Cotton: Breathable, absorbent, and easy to care for; ideal for summer items.
• Acrylic: Inexpensive, easy to wash, and hypoallergenic; good for beginners.
• Alpaca: Soft, warm, and luxurious; suitable for delicate projects.
• Silk: Shiny, smooth, and strong; used for elegant and special items.
• Linen: Strong, absorbent, and gets softer with each wash; great for warm weather.
• Bamboo: Soft, silky, and eco-friendly; good for sensitive skin.
• Nylon: Strong, elastic, and often blended with other fibers for durability.
• Polyester: Similar to nylon, often used in blends for its strength and wrinkle resistance.

Weaving in ends is an essential step in finishing any crochet project. It secures the yarn tails and prevents them from unraveling.

Here's how to weave in ends:

• Use a yarn needle to thread the yarn tail through the back of the stitches.
• Weave the tail in different directions to secure it.
• Trim the excess yarn close to the fabric.

Weaving in ends makes your project look clean and professional.

Blocking is the process of wetting or steaming a finished crochet project to shape it and even out the stitches.

There are three main ways to block your crochet project:

• Wet Blocking: Soak the project in water, gently squeeze out excess, and lay flat to dry.
• Steam Blocking: Use a steam iron to gently steam the project without touching it directly.
• Spray Blocking: Lightly spray the project with water and lay flat to dry.

Blocking helps to improve the drape and appearance of the finished item. Be sure to check the label on the yarn before blocking.

Here's how to take care of your crochet project:

• Follow the care instructions on the yarn label.
• Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle.
• Lay flat to dry to prevent stretching.
• Store your crochet items in a cool, dry place.
• Avoiding sunlight can help prevent fading.

Crochet charts are visual representations of crochet patterns. They use symbols to represent different stitches. Charts can be helpful for understanding complex patterns.

Understanding how to read charts can greatly enhance your crochet skills.

Here are some helpful resources for crocheters:

• The Secret Yarnery YouTube channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNkcP7KsCSlkcQ8pAkDKRQ
• Ravelry: https://www.ravelry.com/

A good foundation chain is essential for a successful crochet project. By using the techniques I've shared, you can say goodbye to tight chains and hello to even, beautiful beginnings. Experiment with the larger hook method and the chainless foundation to find what works best for you.

Now, grab your hook and yarn, put these tips into practice, and watch your projects transform! Stay Hooked!

Have you ever been working on a beautiful crochet project, only to run out of yarn mid-row? Or maybe you're ready to switch colors and create a stunning design? Joining yarn can be tricky. No one wants bulky knots or loose ends to ruin their hard work. That's where the magic knot comes in!

This simple technique creates a nearly invisible join. It secures your yarn without the hassle of weaving in a million ends. It's a total win for crocheters of all levels. Today, I'm going to show you how to master the magic knot.

The magic knot is a game changer. It's a fantastic way to join new yarn to old yarn. You'll get a seamless transition. This means no more unsightly knots interrupting the flow of your stitches. One of the best parts? There's very little weaving in ends. It gives your finished project a much cleaner, more professional look. If you’ve ever struggled with yarn joins, this method will simplify your projects. Trust me, once you get the hang of it, you'll be using it all the time!

Before we dive in, it’s important to know when to use the magic knot. Not all yarns are created equal, and some are better suited for this technique than others.

• Acrylic Yarn: This is your best friend when it comes to the magic knot. Acrylic fibers are strong. They grip each other well. This makes for a super secure knot.
• Natural Fibers (Wool, Cotton, etc.): Proceed with caution! The magic knot may not be as secure with these fibers. Natural fibers tend to be smoother than acrylic. The knot might slip.
• Slippery Fibers (Silk, Bamboo, etc.): I strongly discourage using the magic knot with these yarns. They are too smooth. The knot is likely to come undone, which is a crocheter's nightmare!

Always test the knot's strength before committing to it in your project. If you can't pull it "really hard" without breaking, it's not ideal for the magic knot. For slippery fibers, consider alternative joining methods like the Russian join or weaving in the ends.

Okay, let's gather our supplies. Fortunately, you don't need much for this technique:

• Yarn (the old and new strands you want to join)
• Scissors

That's it! You might want a yarn needle for weaving in ends. This is if you choose not to use the magic knot for certain fibers. A clean, flat surface to work on will also make things easier.

Alright, let's get to the fun part! Here’s how to tie a magic knot, step by step:

• Step 1: Prepare Your Yarn: Lay the old yarn straight. Lay the new yarn parallel to the old yarn.
• Step 2: Create the First Knot: Place the new yarn over the old yarn. Poke the new yarn under the old yarn. Form a knot.
• Step 3: Tighten the First Knot: Shrink the knot down. Give it a firm tug. Make sure it's snug.
• Step 4: Create the Second Knot: Lay the old yarn across the new yarn. Tuck the old yarn under the new yarn. Form another knot.
• Step 5: Tighten the Second Knot: Snug the knot down. Make sure it's secure. Don't make it too tight.
• Step 6: Join the Knots: Hold the new and old yarn with the knots in between your fingers.
• Step 7: Pull to Secure: Pull the old yarn and new yarn simultaneously. Let the knots slide together.
• Step 8: The Ultimate Test: Give the joined yarn a big, hard pull. Seriously, pull hard! This is crucial for testing the knot's strength. If it breaks now, it's better than breaking in your finished project.
• Step 9: Snug Down Tails: Tug on the tails of each yarn strand. Make sure they are as snug as possible. This helps prevent the knot from unraveling later.
• Step 10: Trim the Tails: Holding everything straight, carefully cut off the tails right at the knot. Get as close as you can without cutting the knot itself.

Remember, the key is to make tight knots. Take your time. Pay attention to each step. Handle your scissors carefully.

Even with the best instructions, sometimes things go wrong. Here are some common problems you might encounter with the magic knot. I'll also give you some solutions.

• Knot Coming Undone: This is usually caused by:
  • Using the wrong type of yarn (slippery fibers).
  • Not pulling the knots tight enough.
  • To fix it, re-tie the knot. Make it extra secure. Consider using a different joining method.
• Knot Too Bulky: This can happen if you don't trim the tails close enough.
  • Trim the tails as close to the knot as possible.
  • Adjust your stitches to conceal the knot.
• Knot Breaks When Pulled: This is a good thing! It means you found a weak spot before it ruined your project.
  • Re-tie the knot. Make sure you're using a strong section of yarn.
• Knot is Visible in Finished Project: This can be annoying, but it's usually easy to fix.
  • Weave in the tails for extra security. This will also hide the knot.
  • Choose a less conspicuous spot for the join in future projects.

Don't get discouraged if you have trouble at first. Practice makes perfect!

So, you've mastered the magic knot. Now, let's talk about hiding it. After all, we want a seamless finish.

• Step 1: Identify the Knot's Location: Take a look at your work. Is the knot on the front of the stitch? If so, we need to move it.
• Step 2: Adjust Your Stitches: Gently manipulate the stitches around the knot. Try to move it to the back of the work.
• Step 3: Increase Tension: Make your stitches with slightly more tension before the knot. This will create more space.
• Step 4: Work the Knot into the Stitch: Work the knot a bit farther into the stitch. This will conceal it.
• Step 5: Check the Knot's Position: Make sure the knot is now on the back of your work, out of sight.

This technique requires a bit of finesse. It may take a few tries. You can even take out a couple of stitches if needed. The goal is to put the knot where you aren't going to see it. If you still can't hide it completely, weave in the ends with a yarn needle.

Now that you know how to tie and hide a magic knot, let's talk about the best projects for using it. This technique is especially useful in:

• Blankets: Joining large amounts of yarn without creating bulky seams.
• Amigurumi: Seamlessly joining yarn when changing colors.
• Garments: Using it in less visible areas to avoid bulk.
• Accessories: Hats, scarves, and other items where a smooth finish is desired.

The magic knot would work great in the Drunken Granny Blanket. Watch the Drunken Granny Blanket tutorial.

I've already mentioned this, but it's worth repeating. There are times when the magic knot isn't the best choice. Avoid it when working with:

• Slippery fibers (silk, bamboo, etc.)
• Projects requiring extreme durability

In these situations, consider alternative joining methods like the Russian join or weaving in ends. Choosing the right joining method is crucial for your project's success.

While the magic knot is fantastic, it's not the only way to join yarn. Here are a few other methods you might want to try:

• Russian Join: This method involves threading the yarn back through itself to create a secure, nearly invisible join. It’s suitable for various yarn types and is known for its strength and neatness.
• Weaving in Ends: This is a classic method where you use a yarn needle to weave the yarn tails into the finished fabric. To do it securely, weave in different directions. Use sharp tip needles. Find sharp tip needles here.
• Spit Splice (for Wool): This method works by felting the yarn fibers together. It’s only suitable for non-superwash wool. This creates a seamless and invisible finish.

Each method has its pros and cons. Think about which one is right for your yarn.

Want to add some pizzazz to your project? The magic knot is awesome for changing colors seamlessly. Here are some tips for ensuring a smooth and invisible color transition:

• Tie your magic knot with the old color and the new color.
• Make sure the knot is secure and hidden.
• Continue crocheting with the new color.

This technique works well for projects like striped blankets or Fair Isle patterns.

If you're just starting your crochet journey, here are some essential tools and resources to help you along the way:

• Crochet Hooks: Start with a set of assorted sizes to experiment with different yarn weights.
• Yarn: Acrylic and cotton yarns are beginner-friendly. They're easy to work with and come in a variety of colors.
• Scissors: Sharp scissors are a must for trimming yarn tails. You can get your scissors here.
• Stitch Markers: These little helpers keep track of your stitches.
• Tape Measure: A tape measure is essential for checking gauge and project size. Get your tape measure here.
• Online Tutorials: Check out The Secret Yarnery's YouTube channel and other helpful resources. Find easy crochet tutorials here.
• Pattern Books: Look for beginner-friendly crochet pattern books.

Investing in quality tools will make your crochet journey more enjoyable.

Want to learn even more crochet techniques? Check out my free crochet classes. Access the free classes here. Online classes are a great way to learn new skills. You'll also gain confidence and connect with a community of crocheters.

If you're looking for easy blanket patterns, I've got you covered! You can see those patterns here. Blankets are a great project for beginners.

Come join The Secret Yarnery's online community. You can join here. Share projects, get advice, and connect with others! Share your magic knot projects!

The magic knot is a fantastic technique. It will transform the way you join yarn. It's easy to learn, creates a seamless finish, and saves you time. So, grab your yarn and scissors. Give it a try! And don't forget to subscribe to The Secret Yarnery's channel for more crochet tutorials.

Stay hooked!

We're tackling a technique that will elevate your crochet projects: the magic ring. Also known as the magic loop or magic circle, this method is a game-changer for creating tight, seamless centers, especially in projects like granny squares and amigurumi. Forget those pesky holes – with the magic ring, you'll achieve a professional, polished look every time. So, grab your hook and yarn, and let's dive into this easy-to-follow tutorial!

The magic ring is a crochet technique used to begin projects that are worked in the round. Unlike starting with a traditional chain and slip stitch, the magic ring allows you to create a center that can be pulled closed, eliminating that annoying hole. This is especially useful when making amigurumi, hats, and other projects where a tight, invisible center is desirable. You might hear it called a magic loop or a magic circle, but they all refer to the same clever trick.

So, why should you bother learning the magic ring? Well, the benefits are numerous! The most significant advantage is the perfectly closed center it creates. This not only looks more aesthetically pleasing but also provides a more structurally sound foundation for your project. No more gaping holes that let stuffing escape from your amigurumi or create a draft in your hats!

Another great thing about the magic ring is that you can easily adjust the size of the center. If you find that it's not quite tight enough after you've worked a few rounds, simply pull the tail a little more. This flexibility is especially helpful when working with different yarn weights or hook sizes. Think of all the projects you can improve with this technique: hats, doilies, motifs, and so much more.

Before we get started, let's gather our supplies. Here's what you'll need:

• Yarn: Choose any yarn you like! Different weights will create different effects, so experiment and see what you prefer.
• Crochet hook: Select a hook size that corresponds to your yarn weight.
• Yarn needle: This will be used to weave in the ends and secure your magic ring.
• Scissors: For trimming the yarn.

You can find all these essentials and more at The Secret Yarnery! Check out these links for my favorite tools: Crochet Hooks, Yarn, Scissors, Sharp Tip Needles, and Blunt Tip Needles.

Alright, let's get to the fun part! Follow these steps to create your very own magic ring:

• Step 1: Lay the yarn over your non-dominant hand. Secure it with your ring finger, holding the tail end in place.
• Step 2: Wrap the yarn around your index and middle fingers, creating an "X" shape on the back of your hand. Hold the yarn in place with your thumb.
• Step 3: Insert your crochet hook (hook side down) under the first strand of yarn on your fingers.
• Step 4: Catch the second strand of yarn with your hook and pull it under the first strand, creating a loop on your hook.
• Step 5: Twist your hook toward yourself, then away, to secure the loop and form the basis of your ring.
• Step 6: Yarn over and pull through the loop on your hook to create a chain. This secures the ring and counts as your first chain stitch.
• Step 7: Now, crochet the number of stitches required by your pattern into the center of the ring, working over both the strands of yarn and the tail.

Remember to hold the yarn firmly but not too tightly, and maintain a consistent tension. Don't worry if it takes a few tries to get it right; practice makes perfect!

Once you have your magic ring secured with that initial chain, it's time to start adding stitches. The key here is to work your stitches into the center of the ring, going over both strands of yarn. This will help to secure the ring and prevent it from unraveling later.

Make sure to evenly space your stitches within the ring. This will create a nice, even foundation for your project. Follow your pattern instructions carefully to ensure you're working the correct number of stitches. If your pattern calls for 6 single crochet stitches, make sure you work exactly 6!

After you've completed your initial stitches, it's time to tighten up that center! Gently pull the yarn tail to close the hole in the middle of the ring. You'll see the stitches begin to bunch together, creating a tight, seamless center.

Be careful not to pull the tail too hard, as this could cause the yarn to break. Pull it firmly but gently, until the hole is completely closed. If you're having trouble getting it tight enough, you can try wiggling the stitches around a bit to distribute the tension.

Securing the magic ring tail is absolutely crucial to prevent your project from unraveling. I cannot stress this enough! Here's how to weave in the ends and make sure your magic ring stays put:

• Step 1: Thread the yarn tail onto your yarn needle.
• Step 2: Examine the direction the yarn is coming from in your magic ring.
• Step 3: Weave the yarn tail in the opposite direction through the stitches on the back of your work. This will help to lock the ring in place.
• Step 4: Go back and forth at least three times, weaving in slightly different spots each time. This will provide extra security.
• Step 5: Gently pull the yarn to ensure it lays flat and doesn't create any bumps. Be careful not to over-tighten.
• Step 6: Trim any excess yarn close to the stitches.

Using a sharp-tipped needle can make this process a lot easier. Remember, the more secure your magic ring, the longer your project will last!

Even with the best instructions, sometimes things don't go as planned. Here are some common problems you might encounter when making a magic ring, along with some helpful solutions:

• The ring keeps coming undone: Make sure your initial chain is secure, and weave in the end properly.
• The center hole is still too big: Pull the yarn tail tighter. If that doesn't work, try adding a few extra stitches in the first round.
• The yarn breaks when tightening: Use a thicker yarn or pull the tail more gently.
• Difficulty inserting the hook: Use a hook size appropriate for your yarn weight and practice the initial steps slowly.

Want to take your magic ring skills to the next level? Here are a few extra tips for creating a flawless magic ring:

• Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round.
• Maintain consistent tension throughout the process.
• Practice makes perfect – don't be discouraged if your first few attempts aren't perfect.
• Watch the video tutorial multiple times.
• Experiment with different yarn types and hook sizes.

Once you've mastered the basic magic ring, you might want to explore some variations. Here are a couple to get you started:

• Double Magic Ring: Provides extra security for projects that require a very tight center.
• Magic Ring with a Slip Knot: Offers a slightly different starting method.

Now that you know how to make a magic ring, let's talk about some projects that can benefit from this technique. Here are a few ideas to get your creative juices flowing:

• Granny squares
• Hats
• Amigurumi
• Doilies
• Motifs for blankets

Looking for inspiration? Check out the WRITTEN PATTERNS available on The Secret Yarnery website.

One of my favorite projects using the magic ring is a set of amigurumi animals I made for my niece. I used a soft, colorful cotton yarn and a small hook to create the tightest possible stitches. The magic ring was essential for creating the seamless heads and bodies of the animals. Knowing that there weren't any holes for the stuffing to escape from made me feel good. Every time I see her playing with them, it reminds me of the power of a well-executed magic ring!

If you're looking for more crochet tips, inspiration, and support, I invite you to join The Secret Yarnery community! By becoming a member, you'll gain access to exclusive patterns, tutorials, and a whole lot of fun. We have something for everyone! Plus, you'll be able to connect with other crocheters from around the world, share your projects, and ask questions.

Join the fun: JOIN the FAMILY!. You can also find us on Instagram, Facebook, and our Facebook Group.

Thank you so much for joining me for Crochet Class 13! I hope you found this tutorial helpful and that you're now ready to master the magic ring. Remember to subscribe to The Secret Yarnery's YouTube channel for more crochet tutorials, tips, and inspiration. And don't forget to leave a comment below and share your magic ring projects with me!

Stay hooked, and I'll see you in the next class!

Also check out this Crochet Magic Ring Tutorial.

In this post, I'm going to show you how to change yarn color at the end of a row to create a seamless transition. This is a great technique for crochet beginners who want to avoid messy knots and create professional-looking stripes or colorwork. Stick around for easy-to-follow steps and tips that will have you changing colors like a pro in no time!

Changing yarn at the end of a row is a game changer, especially if you want a clean, polished look. Have you ever struggled with bulky knots that ruin the flow of your crochet project? This method lets you say goodbye to those pesky knots and hello to smooth, invisible color changes.

There are so many great uses for this technique. Think about adding vibrant stripes to a cozy scarf, creating bold color blocks on a blanket, or tackling more complex patterns like intarsia. Learning to change colors at the end of a row opens up a world of creative possibilities.

While there are other ways to change yarn, I think this technique is perfect for beginners because it's simple and effective. Once you get the hang of it, you'll wonder why you ever did it any other way!

Before we dive in, let's gather our supplies. Here's what you'll need:

• Crochet hook: Use the size recommended for your yarn.
• Yarn: Pick out the colors you want to use!
• Scissors: To snip the yarn.
• Yarn needle: For weaving in those pesky ends.

Okay, let's talk about the secret to a smooth color change: the last stitch. The key is to start your stitch as usual, but don't finish it completely with your old color. Instead, we're going to leave the last two loops on your hook (or three loops if you're doing a half double crochet).

Imagine you're making a single crochet. You'd insert your hook, yarn over, and pull up a loop. Now you have two loops on your hook, but instead of yarning over and pulling through both loops, we're going to stop right there. Those loops are where the magic happens!

Ready to get started? Here's how to change yarn at the end of a row, step by step:

First, grab your new color of yarn and create a loop. Leave a tail that's about 6-8 inches long. This tail is essential for weaving in the end later, so don't skimp on the length!

Hold that tail of the new yarn along the back of your work. This helps to secure it and keeps it out of the way. Now, put the loop of the new yarn on your hook and pull it through the remaining loops on your hook. That's it! You've just completed your last stitch with the new color.

Drop the tails of both the old and new yarn, making sure they stay behind your work. We want to keep the front nice and tidy.

Now it's time to create the turning chain with your new color. The number of chains you need depends on the stitch you're using (usually one for single crochet, two for half double crochet, and three for double crochet). Turn your work, and get ready to start the new row.

Work the first stitch of the new row into the previous row, just like you normally would. Continue crocheting across the row, and remember those tails are still hanging out in the back. We'll deal with them later.

Okay, let's talk about those tails. Weaving in ends is a must. It secures your yarn and stops your project from unraveling. It might seem tedious, but trust me, it's worth it!

Thread the tail onto your yarn needle. Then, weave it through the back of your work, following the path of the stitches. Try to weave in different directions to really secure the end. If possible, hide the tail along the same color yarn for an even cleaner look.

Sometimes things don't go as planned. Here are a few common problems and how to fix them:

If your stitches look loose or sloppy, it's probably a tension issue. Try tightening your tension on the new yarn as you pull it through the loops. Practice makes perfect! The more you change colors, the more consistent your tension will become.

Remember, we're trying to avoid knots altogether. Make sure your tails are long enough for weaving in, and double-check that you're not accidentally knotting the yarn as you change colors.

Uneven color changes can happen if your tension is inconsistent. Keep your tension consistent throughout the color change, and remember that blocking your finished project can help even out any minor imperfections.

Want to take your color changes to the next level? Here are a few extra tips:

I always tell my students to practice on a swatch before trying a new technique on a big project. It's a great way to get comfortable with the steps and work out any kinks.

I suggest using a color wheel to help you choose colors that look great together.

For the best results, use yarns of the same weight. This will help keep your stitches consistent and prevent any weird puckering or distortion.

For extra security, try tying a small knot after weaving in the ends, and then weave them back in again. It's like a double lock!

Blocking can work wonders for evening out your stitches and making your project look its best. Don't skip this step!

Ready to try out your new color-changing skills? Here are a few project ideas:

• Striped scarf
• Color-blocked blanket
• Striped hat

I think a Drunken Granny Blanket would look great with color-blocked stripes.

I would love to see what you create! Share your finished projects on social media.

You can find me on:

• Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/secretyarnery/
• Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/secretyarnery
• Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/secretyarnerycrochetcommunity/
• Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/secretyarnery/_saved/
• Twitter: https://twitter.com/TYarnery

Use the hashtags #TheSecretYarnery, #EasyCrochet, and #BeginnerCrochet so I can find your posts!

If you enjoyed this tutorial, I encourage you to subscribe to The Secret Yarnery's YouTube channel here. By subscribing, you'll stay up-to-date on all my new tutorials, patterns, and crochet adventures.

If you're looking for even more exclusive content, consider joining the channel membership here.

I have so many other crochet classes available, and they're all free!

Looking for more crochet resources? Check out my written patterns for detailed instructions and inspiration.

I also offer Crochet Planners in both A4 https://bit.ly/3NVRsaE and Letter Size https://bit.ly/35Q8aXF to help you organize all of your projects.

Want to get a peek behind the curtain? Check out my behind-the-scenes content to learn more about me and my crochet journey.

Show your support for The Secret Yarnery by visiting my merch store. You'll find all sorts of fun goodies that any crochet lover will adore!

Here are some of my most popular tutorials:

• Drunken Granny Blanket 🍋 https://youtu.be/mGqpNufvjr4
• The Sober Granny Baby Blanket 🍋 https://youtu.be/nKOL0jhQdLI
• The Speedy Granny Ruth Bedspread 🍋 https://youtu.be/M81RItCM5LE
• Gingham C2C Blanket 🍋 https://youtu.be/mL_zZrgFD_Y
• Huge Crochet Ball 🍋 https://youtu.be/lwd3H_I8vfY

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So, there you have it: a simple, knot-free way to change yarn at the end of a row. I hope you found this tutorial helpful and that you're excited to start experimenting with color changes in your own projects. Remember, practice makes perfect, so don't be afraid to try it out a few times. If you have any questions, leave a comment below!

Thanks for hooking along! Stay hooked!

Ever been working on a crochet project, totally in the zone, and then BAM! You run out of yarn? It's the worst, right? But don't worry, I'm here to show you a super easy way to join a new ball of yarn so you can keep on hooking without any ugly knots or interruptions. I'm going to walk you through my method and trust me, it's so simple, even if you're just getting started with crochet, you'll nail it. Plus, this trick isn't just for joining yarn – you can use it for seamless color changes too!

Let's face it, running out of yarn mid-project is basically a universal crocheter experience. That's why knowing a good, clean way to join a new ball is essential. It keeps your projects looking neat and professional, and it saves you from having a bunch of bulky knots to deal with later.

But here's a little secret: this technique isn't just for when you run out of yarn! It's also fantastic for changing colors in your projects. Want to add stripes to a scarf or create a colorful pattern in a blanket? This method makes it super easy to switch colors without any awkward transitions.

Why is this method so great? It's simple, it's secure, and it's practically invisible. What's not to love?

Before we dive in, let's gather our supplies. You probably already have everything you need:

• Yarn: The yarn you're using for your project.
• Crochet Hook: The hook size that works with your yarn.
• Scissors: For cutting the yarn (when we're done, not yet!).
• Darning Needle: For weaving in those ends nice and securely. You can find some great sharp tip needles online.

Alright, let's get to the good stuff! Here's how to join a new ball of yarn:

1. Getting Started: Begin your next stitch as you normally would with your old yarn. But here's the key: don't finish it!
2. Leaving Loops on the Hook: For a double crochet, you'll want to leave the last two loops on your hook. If you're doing a half double crochet, leave the last three loops. This is where the magic happens, so pay close attention.
3. Dropping the Old Tail: Gently drop the tail of your old yarn, letting it hang on the back of your work. Don't cut it yet! We'll take care of it later when we weave in the ends.
4. Grab Your New Yarn: Pick up your new ball of yarn and get ready to bring it into the mix.
5. Creating a Loop with the New Yarn: Place the new yarn on your hook, just like you normally do when starting a new stitch.
6. Tail Length: Make sure you leave a tail of about four or five inches on your new yarn. This gives you enough to weave in later.
7. Pulling Through: Now, pull the new yarn through all the loops that are on your hook. This completes the stitch and joins the new yarn to your project.
8. Finishing the Stitch: You've now finished that double crochet (or half double crochet) with the new yarn!
9. Securing the Tails: Hold both tails – the one from the old yarn and the one from the new yarn – against the back of your work. This will keep them out of the way while you crochet the next stitch.
10. Continuing to Crochet: Make your next stitch as usual, holding those tails in place along the back of your work.
11. Observing the Join: Crocheting that next stitch will let you see how the join looks. It should be nice and smooth.
12. The Finished Join: Ta-da! Your new ball of yarn is now joined to your project. Not too shabby, right?
13. Weaving in the Ends: Before you get too carried away, take a moment to weave in those ends. This will secure your join and prevent it from unraveling later on.
14. Ready to Go: And that's it! You're now ready to keep on crocheting with your new ball of yarn.

While I've given you a detailed step-by-step guide, sometimes it helps to see it in action. That's why I highly recommend checking out the video on YouTube. It's always easier to learn something new when you have visuals to guide you!

Want to make your yarn joins even better? Here are a few pro tips to keep in mind:

• Tail Length Matters: While I recommended a tail length of four or five inches, you can adjust this depending on the yarn you're using. If you're working with a super bulky yarn, you might want a slightly longer tail. For finer yarns, you can get away with a shorter tail.
• Tension Control: Maintaining even tension is key to a seamless join. If your tension is too tight, the join will be bulky. If it's too loose, the join will be weak. Try to keep your tension consistent throughout the joining process.
• Yarn Weight Considerations: This technique works well for most yarn weights, but you might need to make slight adjustments for super bulky or very fine yarns. With bulky yarns, be extra careful not to create a bulky join. With fine yarns, make sure you leave enough of a tail to weave in securely.
• Practice Makes Perfect: Don't be afraid to practice this technique on scrap yarn before using it on your project. The more you practice, the more comfortable you'll become with it.
• When to Join: Think strategically about where you join your yarn. If possible, try to join in a less visible area, such as a side seam or within a color change.

I know, I know, weaving in ends is nobody's favorite part of crocheting. But trust me, it's an essential step for securing your joins and preventing your projects from unraveling.

• Why Weaving Matters: Weaving in ends is like the insurance policy for your crochet project. It ensures that your hard work stays intact for years to come.
• Tools for Weaving: The best tool for weaving in ends is a yarn needle, also called a tapestry needle or darning needle. These needles have large eyes that are easy to thread with yarn.
• The Weaving Technique: To weave in the ends, thread the yarn needle with the yarn tail and weave the tail back and forth through several stitches on the wrong side of your work.
• Hiding the Ends: Try to hide the ends within the yarn strands of the stitches. This will make them even less visible.
• Cutting Excess Yarn: Once you've woven in the ends securely, trim the excess yarn close to the work. Be careful not to cut any of the surrounding stitches!

Even with the best instructions, sometimes things don't go quite as planned. Here are a few common issues you might encounter when joining yarn, and how to fix them:

• Bulky Join: A bulky join is usually caused by having too much yarn in one spot or by crocheting too tightly. To avoid a bulky join, make sure you're not overlapping the yarn tails too much, and try to maintain even tension.
• Loose Join: A loose join can happen if you don't pull the new yarn through tightly enough or if you don't secure the tails properly. To fix a loose join, try redoing the join with a bit more tension. And be sure to weave in the ends securely!
• Join Unraveling: If your join starts to unravel, it's usually because the ends weren't woven in properly. To prevent this, take your time and weave in the ends thoroughly.
• Visible Join: Sometimes, even with the best technique, the join is still a little visible. To minimize the visibility of the join, try to place it in a less noticeable area, such as a side seam. You can also try choosing colors that blend well together.

While the method I've shown you is great for beginners, there are lots of other ways to join yarn in crochet. Here are a few alternative methods you might want to explore:

• Magic Knot: The magic knot is a popular method for joining yarn that creates a very secure knot. However, it can be a bit bulky, and some people find it tricky to master.
• Russian Join: The Russian join involves threading the yarn back through itself to create a seamless join. It's a strong and invisible join, but it can be a bit time-consuming.
• Standing Stitch Join: The standing stitch join involves creating a new stitch with the new yarn directly onto the fabric. It's a great way to start a new row or round with a different color.

The best joining method depends on the project, the type of yarn you're using, and your personal preference. I encourage you to research and experiment with different methods to find the ones you like best.

Remember how I mentioned that this technique isn't just for joining yarn? It's also fantastic for creating seamless color changes in your crochet projects.

By using this method, you can switch colors without any abrupt transitions or messy knots. It's perfect for creating stripes, color blocks, and other fun designs.

When planning color changes, think strategically about where you want the colors to change. You can create all sorts of cool effects by changing colors at different points in your project.

This technique is great for carrying yarn!

Whether you're making stripes, color blocks, or something more complex like intarsia, this technique will help you create clean and professional-looking color changes. So go ahead and experiment with different color combinations and techniques!

Now that you know how to join a new ball of yarn (and change colors!), it's time to put your new skills to practice. Here are a few project ideas to get you started:

• Simple Stripes: A simple striped scarf or blanket is a great beginner-friendly project for practicing yarn joins and color changes.
• Color Block Coasters: Making color block coasters is a fun way to practice changing colors in small increments.
• Granny Squares: A granny square project is a versatile way to practice joining yarn and experimenting with different color combinations. Plus, Krista has a free pattern you can use!
• Amigurumi: Amigurumi projects are great, because you can hide the yarn, so it doesn't have to be perfect.

Want to learn even more crochet techniques? The Secret Yarnery offers a whole bunch of free online crochet classes designed for beginners.

Taking structured crochet classes is a great way to build your skills and learn new techniques. And with The Secret Yarnery's beginner-friendly focus, you're sure to feel comfortable and confident every step of the way.

From basic stitches to more advanced techniques, The Secret Yarnery's classes cover a wide range of crochet topics. So why not check them out and see what you can learn?

One of the best things about crochet is the sense of community that comes with it. And The Secret Yarnery has a fantastic Facebook group where you can connect with other crocheters from all over the world.

By joining the community, you can share your projects, ask questions, get inspiration, and connect with other people who love crochet as much as you do. It's a great place to find support, encouragement, and new friends. It's a positive and supportive environment, so you'll always feel welcome and encouraged.

Don't forget to follow along on social media: Instagram and Facebook

Want to show your support for The Secret Yarnery? Check out the merch store: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNkcP7KsCSlkcQ8pAkDKRQ/store

You can find all sorts of cool merchandise, like t-shirts, mugs, bags, and more. By purchasing merch, you're not only getting yourself something awesome, but you're also helping to support Krista and The Secret Yarnery.

Ready to take your crochet skills to the next level? Here are a few of The Secret Yarnery's most popular tutorials:

• Drunken Granny Blanket: https://youtu.be/mGqpNufvjr4
• The Sober Granny Baby Blanket: https://youtu.be/nKOL0jhQdLI
• The Speedy Granny Ruth Bedspread: https://youtu.be/M81RItCM5LE
• Gingham C2C Blanket: https://youtu.be/mL_zZrgFD_Y
• Huge Crochet Ball: https://youtu.be/lwd3H_I8vfY

These tutorials cover a wide range of projects, from blankets and bedspreads to fun and quirky creations like a giant crochet ball. So no matter what your interests are, you're sure to find something that inspires you.

If you're looking for even more crochet content, be sure to check out The Secret Yarnery's popular playlists:

• Secret Stitches CAL 2021: https://bit.ly/35dCdrL
• Shopping 💎 https://secretyarnery.com/blogs/blog/how-to-crochet-for-beginners: https://bit.ly/341gMcV
• Easy Crochet Blankets: https://bit.ly/3IiXFKa
• Live Chats: https://bit.ly/3KBZwfc
• Crochet Podcasts: https://bit.ly/3qSfo5q
• Crochet Classes: https://bit.ly/3rIhlQL
• Easy Crochet Tutorials: https://bit.ly/3nKbk5e

Playlists are a great way to organize content by theme or topic. So if you're interested in a particular type of project or technique, you can easily find a playlist that's dedicated to it.

Want to show your support for Christa and The Secret Yarnery in a more tangible way? Consider becoming a channel member: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNkcP7KsCSlkcQ8pAkDKRQ/join

As a channel member, you'll get access to exclusive content, early access to new videos, loyalty badges, and other perks. Plus, you'll be directly supporting Krista and helping her to continue creating amazing crochet tutorials.

Of course, the easiest way to stay up-to-date on all the latest crochet tutorials from The Secret Yarnery is to subscribe to the channel: https://bit.ly/2opYkWB

By subscribing, you'll be notified whenever a new video is uploaded. And if you click the notification bell, you'll receive alerts right away so you never miss a stitch!

Are you a crochet enthusiast looking for ways to stay organized and plan your projects effectively? The Secret Yarnery offers crochet planners in both A4 and Letter sizes to help you do just that!

• A4 Planner: https://bit.ly/3NVRsaE
• Letter Size Planner: https://bit.ly/35Q8aXF

These planners are packed with features like project trackers, stitch guides, yarn inventory pages, and more. By using a planner, you can stay on top of your projects, track your progress, and plan your future creations with ease.

Last but not least, be sure to connect with The Secret Yarnery on social media! You can find Krista on:

• Pinterest: https://www.pinterest.com/secretyarnery/_saved/
• Twitter: https://twitter.com/TYarnery

Following The Secret Yarnery on social media is a great way to stay connected and get updates on new videos, projects, and other exciting news.

So, there you have it – a simple and effective way to join a new ball of yarn in crochet. Withmy easy-to-follow method, you'll be able to keep your projects flowing smoothly, without any unsightly knots or interruptions. Remember, this technique is also perfect for creating seamless color changes. Don't be afraid to experiment and have fun with it! Now that you know how to crochet, it's time to get to your first Crochet for Beginners: Your Step-by-Step Guide and expand your knowledge of this fun hobby! I encourage you to explore all the other amazing Crochet Classes and tips that The Secret Yarnery has to offer. Stay hooked!

Ever wondered how to make your crochet projects wider or create fun shapes? The secret lies in the increase stitch! It's a simple technique that can open up a whole new world of possibilities in your crochet. In this guide, I will walk you through how to increase in both double crochet and single crochet. Grab your hook and yarn, and let's get started!

So, what exactly is a crochet increase? Simply put, it's a way to add stitches to a row or round of your crochet project. Think of it like magic – you're taking one stitch and turning it into two!

Why is this important? Well, increases allow you to shape your crochet. Want to make a hat that gets wider towards the bottom? Use increases. Need to crochet a flat circle? Increases are your best friend. Shaping garments, creating amigurumi (stuffed animals), and making shawls all rely on the power of the increase stitch. It's a fundamental technique that will let you bring your creative visions to life.

Before we dive into the how-to, let's gather our supplies. You won't need much!

• Yarn: Any yarn will do, but I recommend using a smooth, light-colored yarn for practicing. It'll be easier to see your stitches. Different yarn weights will give you different results, so feel free to experiment!
• Crochet hook: Choose a hook size that's appropriate for your yarn. The yarn label will usually have a recommendation.
• Scissors: For snipping yarn.
• Tapestry needle: This is for weaving in those pesky ends when you're finished.
• Stitch markers: These are optional, but they can be super helpful, especially when you're just starting out. They help you mark important stitches, like the ones where you're increasing.

If you're looking to stock up on supplies, here are some crochet must-haves available on Amazon: Crochet Hooks, Scissors, Sharp Tip Needles, Blunt Tip Needles, Stitch Markers, Tape Measure, WIP Baskets. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Crochet patterns are often written using abbreviations to save space. Here are some common ones you'll encounter when dealing with increases:

• inc - increase
• dc - double crochet
• sc - single crochet
• st - stitch
• rep - repeat

Knowing these abbreviations is key to understanding and following crochet patterns. Don't let them intimidate you! Think of them as a shorthand that makes patterns easier to read once you get the hang of it.

Okay, let's get to the good stuff! Krista demonstrates the increase stitch using double crochet, so we'll start there.

1. Start your row as normal: Crochet your row as you usually would, until you reach the stitch where you want to make the increase.
2. Identify the stitch: Find the exact stitch where you want to create the increase.
3. Work two double crochet stitches: Now, here's the magic: work two double crochet stitches into that same stitch. That's right, both stitches go into the same space from the row below.
4. Continue crocheting: After you've made your increase, just keep crocheting as normal for the rest of the row.

The key thing to remember is that you're putting two stitches into one. That's what creates the increase and makes your project wider.

(A GIF or image would be inserted here showing the double crochet increase stitch being worked.)

The single crochet increase is very similar to the double crochet increase. The principle is exactly the same: you're putting two stitches into one.

1. Identify the stitch: Find the stitch where you want to make the increase.
2. Work two single crochet stitches: Work two single crochet stitches into that same stitch.
3. Continue crocheting: Continue crocheting as normal for the rest of the row.

See? It's just like the double crochet increase, but with single crochet stitches.

(A GIF or image would be inserted here showing the single crochet increase stitch being worked.)

So, how do you know when to increase? That's where your pattern comes in. The pattern will tell you exactly how often to increase and where to place your increases.

Here are some examples of instructions you might see:

• "Inc in next st": This means you should increase in the very next stitch.
• "Sc 1, inc in next st, rep around": This means you should single crochet in one stitch, then increase in the next stitch, and repeat that sequence all the way around.
• "Inc in every st": This means you should increase in every single stitch.

Spacing out your increases evenly is really important for creating a smooth, gradual increase. If you increase in the same spot every row, you'll end up with a pointy or bumpy shape.

Everyone makes mistakes when they're learning, so don't worry if you mess up a few times. Here are some common mistakes to watch out for:

• Forgetting to put two stitches in the same stitch: This is the most common mistake! Always double-check that you're putting both stitches of the increase into the same stitch from the previous row.
• Increasing too frequently or not frequently enough: Make sure you're following the pattern instructions carefully. Increasing too often will make your project too wide, while not increasing enough will make it too small.
• Not spacing increases evenly: This can create a bumpy or uneven shape. Try to space your increases as evenly as possible.

Here are a few tips for avoiding these mistakes:

• Use stitch markers to mark your increase stitches. This can help you keep track of where you need to increase on the next row.
• Read and follow the pattern instructions carefully.
• Count your stitches regularly to make sure you're on track.

Gauge is basically a measurement of how many stitches and rows you get per inch (or centimeter) of your crochet fabric. It's important for all crochet projects, but it's especially important when you're using increases.

If your gauge is off, your increases might not be in the right place, which can lead to a project that's the wrong size or shape. For example, if your gauge is too small (meaning you have more stitches per inch than the pattern calls for), your increases will be closer together, and your project will end up smaller and steeper than intended.

Here are some tips for maintaining consistent tension and stitch size when increasing:

• Practice makes perfect: The more you practice, the more consistent your stitches will become. Don't get discouraged if your first few attempts aren't perfect.
• Use consistent yarn and hook size: Stick to the same yarn and hook size throughout your project. Switching yarn or hook sizes mid-project can affect your gauge and make your increases look uneven.
• Pay attention to your tension: Try to maintain a consistent tension on your yarn. If you're pulling too tight or too loose, your stitches will be uneven.
• Take breaks: If you're feeling tense, take a break to relax your hands. Crocheting with tense hands can lead to inconsistent stitches.

Now that you know how to increase, you can use it to make all sorts of fun projects! Here are just a few ideas:

• Hats: Increases are used to shape the crown of a hat.
• Amigurumi (stuffed animals): Increases are essential for creating the rounded shapes of amigurumi.
• Circles and squares: Increases are used to create flat circles and squares.
• Shawls and scarves: Increases can be used to create triangular shawls or to add width to a scarf.
• Garments (sweaters, cardigans): Increases are used to shape the body and sleeves of garments.

For some simple crochet projects for newbies, check out this article on Easy Crochet Projects for Beginners: Start Today!.

I can't stress this enough: your pattern is your guide! The frequency and placement of increases are determined by the pattern, so it's crucial to read and understand the instructions carefully. Deviating from the pattern can result in a project that's the wrong size or shape, and nobody wants that!

You can absolutely do an increase in every stitch if the pattern calls for it. This would effectively double the number of stitches in your row. A row of increases like this creates a very dramatic increase and is used in specific shaping techniques.

Understanding how increases affect your stitch count is super helpful for keeping your project on track. Let's say you start with 10 stitches and the pattern tells you to increase in every stitch. That means you'll end up with 20 stitches after that row! Knowing this helps you anticipate the changes in your project's size and shape.

Once you've mastered the basic increase stitch, you might want to explore some more advanced techniques. These techniques create smoother, less noticeable increases.

• Invisible Increase (for amigurumi): This technique is commonly used in amigurumi to avoid creating little bumps where you increase.
• Balanced Increase: This involves working an increase over two stitches instead of one, which can create a more even increase.

These techniques are a bit more advanced, but they're worth learning if you want to take your crochet skills to the next level.

Want to connect with other crocheters and share your projects? The Secret Yarnery has a fantastic online community!

• Subscribe to the YouTube channel for more tutorials and inspiration.
• Join the Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/secretyarnerycrochetcommunity/
• Follow on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/secretyarnery/

The community is a great place to ask questions, share your projects, and get inspired by other crocheters.

This lesson is Crochet Class 16, but there are many more classes available! You can find the playlist for all the classes in the description box: https://bit.ly/3rIhlQL. I highly recommend checking out the other classes to expand your crochet knowledge.

Take a look at the video where Krista does a double crochet increase. She clearly shows how to do one double crochet in the same stitch.

You can also view in the video where Krista does two single crochets in the same stitch to see an example of her doing a single crochet increase.

Ready to put your new increase skills to the test? Here are a few simple practice projects you can try:

• A simple circle coaster
• A small amigurumi ball
• A basic beanie hat

Krista also has a crochet planner that can help you organize and plan your crochet projects. You can find it in A4 size here: https://bit.ly/3NVRsaE and in letter size here: https://bit.ly/35Q8aXF. A planner like this can be a great way to keep track of your projects, yarn stash, and more.

The Secret Yarnery has a ton of great tutorials. Here are some popular ones:

• Drunken Granny Blanket: https://youtu.be/mGqpNufvjr4
• The Sober Granny Baby Blanket: https://youtu.be/nKOL0jhQdLI
• The Speedy Granny Ruth Bedspread: https://youtu.be/M81RItCM5LE
• Gingham C2C Blanket: https://youtu.be/mL_zZrgFD_Y
• Huge Crochet Ball: https://youtu.be/lwd3H_I8vfY

These are all great tutorials to learn different crochet techniques.

Here are some popular playlists that have additional tutorials:

• Secret Stitches CAL 2021: https://bit.ly/35dCdrL
• Shopping Hauls & Unboxings: https://bit.ly/341gMcV
• Easy Crochet Blankets: https://bit.ly/3IiXFKa
• Live Chats: https://bit.ly/3KBZwfc
• Crochet Podcasts: https://bit.ly/3qSfo5q
• Easy Crochet Tutorials: https://bit.ly/3nKbk5e

These playlists are a great source for learning new skills and getting inspiration.

The Secret Yarnery also has some cool merch available! Check out the store here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNkcP7KsCSlkcQ8pAkDKRQ/store.

Here's a list of crochet must-haves available on Amazon:

• Crochet Hooks: https://amzn.to/2p5etkC
• Scissors: https://amzn.to/3EC1CHy
• Sharp Tip Needles: https://amzn.to/3Rdq2ja
• Blunt Tip Needles: https://amzn.to/2MRffKP
• Stitch Markers: https://amzn.to/3GdGCYg
• Tape Measure: https://amzn.to/3JviyD8
• WIP Baskets: https://amzn.to/3tQK9te

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Join The Secret Yarnery Family. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCfNkcP7KsCSlkcQ8pAkDKRQ/join

Learning to increase in crochet takes practice, so be patient with yourself. Don't get discouraged if you don't get it right away. Just keep practicing, and you'll get there! Remember, the crochet community is always there to support you, so don't be afraid to ask questions or share your struggles.

So, what are you planning to crochet with your new increase skills? I'd love to hear about it! Share your projects on social media and don't forget to tag The Secret Yarnery. Leave a comment below and let me know what you're working on! You can also find inspiration for Quick crochet projects for beginners.

The increase stitch is a fundamental crochet technique that opens up a world of possibilities. Whether you're making hats, amigurumi, or garments, understanding how to increase is essential. Thanks for following along, and stay hooked!

Have you ever looked at a beautifully shaped crochet project and wondered how they achieved that perfect curve or taper? The secret often lies in a simple yet essential technique: decreasing. Decreasing in crochet is a fundamental skill that opens up a world of possibilities, allowing you to create everything from fitted garments to adorable amigurumi. In this guide, I'll walk you through the basics of decreasing, focusing on three common methods: dc2tog (double crochet two together), hdc2tog (half double crochet two together), and sc2tog (single crochet two together).

So, what exactly does it mean to decrease in crochet? In simple terms, a decrease reduces the number of stitches in a row or round. Instead of working a single stitch into each stitch of the previous row, you'll be combining two stitches into one.

This seemingly small change has a big impact on the shape of your project. Decreasing is how you create curves, tapers, and other interesting forms. Think about it: decreasing is essential for shaping hats, creating the rounded head of an amigurumi character, or fitting the waist of a sweater.

A crochet decrease is sometimes also known as crocheting two stitches together. Sounds simple, right? You'll be excited by how easy it is to complete a crochet decrease.

Why should you take the time to learn how to decrease? Well, mastering this technique unlocks a whole new level of creativity in your crochet. Here are just a few of the benefits:

• Creating fitted garments: Decreases allow you to shape sweaters, vests, and other garments to fit your body perfectly.
• Shaping hats and bags: From beanies to market bags, decreases are essential for creating the desired shape and size.
• Making amigurumi figures: Those adorable stuffed animals wouldn't be possible without the ability to decrease and create rounded forms.
• Creating more intricate stitch patterns: Decreases can be incorporated into complex stitch patterns to add texture and visual interest.

Decreasing is a fundamental skill to crochet. Trust me; once you've mastered it, you'll be amazed at the new possibilities that open up!

Before we dive into the techniques, let's clarify a few abbreviations that you'll encounter in this tutorial:

• dc2tog: double crochet two together
• hdc2tog: half double crochet two together
• sc2tog: single crochet two together

You'll often see "tog" in crochet patterns, and it simply means "together." It indicates that you're joining two stitches into one. If you are struggling with common crochet terminology, you can check out a crochet for beginners guide.

To practice these decreases, you'll need a few basic supplies:

• Yarn: Any weight of yarn will work, but worsted weight is a good choice for beginners.
• Crochet hook: Choose a hook size that's appropriate for your yarn. The yarn label will usually have a recommendation.
• Scissors: For snipping yarn ends.
• Yarn needle: For weaving in those ends to keep your project neat.

Using a light-colored yarn can help you see the stitches more clearly as you're learning. Consider using the same yarn and crochet hooks that Krista at the Secret Yarnery uses in her videos for a consistent learning experience.

Before you can confidently decrease, you need to be comfortable with the basic crochet stitches. Let's review them quickly:

• Single Crochet (sc): Insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through both loops.
• Half Double Crochet (hdc): Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through all three loops.
• Double Crochet (dc): Yarn over, insert your hook into the stitch, yarn over, pull up a loop (three loops on hook), yarn over, pull through two loops (two loops on hook), yarn over, pull through remaining two loops.

Knowing these stitches is essential before learning to decrease. If you need a refresher, there are many tutorials available online, including easy crochet tutorials from The Secret Yarnery.

Alright, let's get to the first decrease! Here's how to work a double crochet two together (dc2tog):

• Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch.
• Step 2: Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
• Step 3: Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (2 loops on hook) - This is where you stop the regular dc.
• Step 4: Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch.
• Step 5: Yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
• Step 6: Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops on hook).
• Step 7: Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

That's it! You've now joined two double crochet stitches into one. It might feel a little awkward at first, but with practice, it will become second nature.

Tip: Keep your tension even to avoid puckering.

Even experienced crocheters make mistakes sometimes. Here are a few common pitfalls to watch out for when working a dc2tog:

• Mistake 1: Pulling the yarn too tight, causing puckering. Tip: Keep your tension loose.
• Mistake 2: Forgetting to yarn over at the beginning of each stitch. Tip: Double-check before inserting your hook.
• Mistake 3: Not completing the decrease in the next stitch. Tip: Make sure you're working into two separate stitches.

Next up is the half double crochet two together (hdc2tog). This decrease is similar to the dc2tog but has a slightly different texture.

• Step 1: Yarn over, insert hook into stitch.
• Step 2: Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
• Step 3: Yarn over, insert hook into the next stitch.
• Step 4: Yarn over, pull up a loop (5 loops on hook).
• Step 5: Yarn over, pull through all 5 loops.

You've now joined two half double crochet stitches into one!

Tip: Make sure the hook faces down when pulling through all loops.

Here are some common mistakes to avoid when working the hdc2tog:

• Mistake 1: Forgetting the initial yarn over. Tip: Always start with a yarn over.
• Mistake 2: Not pulling the yarn through all loops at the end. Tip: Double-check that you have pulled through all loops.
• Mistake 3: Creating too much tension. Tip: Keep your tension light.

Finally, let's learn the single crochet two together (sc2tog), which is often used in amigurumi and other projects where a tight fabric is desired.

• Step 1: Insert hook into stitch.
• Step 2: Yarn over, pull up a loop (2 loops on hook).
• Step 3: Insert hook into the next stitch.
• Step 4: Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
• Step 5: Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

You've successfully completed a single crochet two together!

Tip: Make sure the hook faces down when pulling through all loops.

Here are some of the most common mistakes to watch out for with the sc2tog:

• Mistake 1: Missing a loop when pulling through. Tip: Count your loops before pulling through.
• Mistake 2: Making the decrease too tight. Tip: Loosen your tension a bit.
• Mistake 3: Inserting the hook into the wrong stitch. Tip: Make sure you're working into two separate stitches.

Did you know that decreases can lean to the right or left? The standard decreases we've learned so far (dc2tog, hdc2tog, sc2tog) typically lean to the right. This is because of the way the stitches are worked.

There are also left-leaning decreases, such as the "sk2tog" (slip, knit two together, pass slipped stitch over). These decreases are created differently and have a different visual effect.

When might you want to use a right-leaning vs. a left-leaning decrease? It depends on the pattern and the desired effect. Some patterns will specify which type of decrease to use in order to maintain a certain symmetry or visual flow.

If you're an amigurumi enthusiast, you'll want to learn the invisible decrease (invdec). This technique creates a smoother, less noticeable decrease, perfect for creating seamless shapes.

Here's how to do it:

• Insert hook into the front loop only of the first stitch.
• Insert hook into the front loop only of the next stitch.
• Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops on the hook.

This technique is essential for creating professional-looking amigurumi.

So, which decrease should you use when? Here's a quick guide:

• Single Crochet Decrease (sc2tog): Best for tight fabrics and amigurumi.
• Half Double Crochet Decrease (hdc2tog): Good for a balance between density and drape.
• Double Crochet Decrease (dc2tog): Ideal for projects where you want more drape and less density.

The choice of decrease depends on the desired effect and the specific project. Don't be afraid to experiment to see which one works best for you!

Want to take your decreases to the next level? Here are a few tips for achieving perfect results:

• Maintain Consistent Tension: Keep your tension even to avoid puckering or loose spots.
• Count Your Stitches: Make sure you are decreasing correctly and maintaining the right stitch count.
• Read the Pattern Carefully: Pay close attention to the pattern instructions for decreases.
• Practice Makes Perfect: Don't be afraid to practice the decreases until you feel comfortable with them.
• Use Stitch Markers: Place stitch markers to mark where you need to do a decrease.
• Blocking: If you are having issues with decreases pulling your work, blocking can help fix tension issues.

Even with the best intentions, you might run into some problems with your decreases. Here's how to troubleshoot a few common issues:

• Puckering: Occurs when the decrease is too tight. Try loosening your tension.
• Holes: Can happen when the decrease is too loose. Try tightening your tension.
• Uneven Edges: May result from inconsistent decreases. Focus on maintaining even tension and stitch count.
• Incorrect Stitch Count: Double check the pattern instructions.

Here's a quick reference guide summarizing the steps for each decrease:

Decrease Steps

Ready to put your new skills to the test? Try this simple project to practice the decreases:

1. Chain 20.
2. Row 1: sc across (19 stitches).
3. Row 2: sc2tog, sc across to last 2 stitches, sc2tog (17 stitches).
4. Repeat Row 2 until you have a small triangle.

Experiment with different decreases in the swatch to see how they look and feel.

Now that you know how to decrease, here are a few project ideas to get you started:

• Hats
• Amigurumi
• Shawls
• Fitted Garments

You can find patterns for these and many other projects online and in crochet books. Don't forget to check out the popular tutorials from Krista at the Secret Yarnery:

• Drunken Granny Blanket
• The Sober Granny Baby Blanket
• The Speedy Granny Ruth Bedspread
• Gingham C2C Blanket
• Huge Crochet Ball

Sometimes mistakes happen, and that's okay! Here are some to be aware of.

• Not reading the pattern: Make sure to read the pattern carefully.
• Decreasing at the wrong time: Decrease in the right spot.
• Forgetting to switch colors: If you are working with multiple colors, be sure to switch colors.
• Not weaving in the ends: Weave in the ends when you are done.
• Choosing the wrong yarn: Choose the right yarn for the project.
• Not maintaining gauge: Gauge is important to maintain the same tension.

Mastering decreases is a game-changer for expanding your crochet skills. Don't be discouraged if it takes a little practice to get the hang of it. Crochet is a journey, and mistakes are part of the learning process. Keep practicing, and before you know it, you'll be creating beautifully shaped crochet projects with confidence.

Now you're ready to take on the crochet world!

Have you ever wanted to crochet a perfect circle? Whether you're dreaming of adorable amigurumi, cozy blankets, or stylish accessories, mastering the art of the crochet circle is essential. It can be a bit tricky to get that flawless, flat shape, but don't worry! I'm here to guide you through every stitch, with clear, easy-to-follow instructions perfect for beginners.

Before we dive in, let's gather everything you'll need. Trust me, having your supplies ready will make the whole process smoother and more enjoyable!

• Yarn: For this tutorial, I'm using a four worsted weight acrylic yarn. It's a great all-around choice. Feel free to experiment with other yarn weights too. Just remember you might need to adjust your hook size accordingly!
• Crochet Hook: I'll be using a 6mm crochet hook. If you're just starting out, you might want to try a slightly larger hook. It can make it easier to see your stitches.
• Yarn Needle: You'll need this to weave in those pesky ends to give your project a clean finish.
• Scissors: To cut the yarn. Simple, right?

Let's start with the very beginning: the slip knot.

1. Make a loop with your yarn.
2. Bring the yarn over and through the loop.
3. Pull to tighten, creating a knot on your hook. Leave a short tail, about two inches, since we'll be working over it and cutting it off later.

Now for the foundation chain, which forms the base of our circle.

1. Chain three. Remember, the loop on your hook doesn't count as a chain.
2. To count your chains, look for the little "v's" that form the chain. You can count from either the top or the bottom. You should have three "v's".
3. Insert your hook into the very first chain you made, right above the slip knot. Don't worry about how many loops are on top when inserting the hook.

This is where the magic begins!

1. Pull the yarn tail down so it follows along with the chain. This will create a "u-shape."
2. Slip stitch through both loops to create the ring. Hold the ring open with your finger and thumb. This prevents it from closing up on you.
3. Chain two. This chain does not count as a stitch in this pattern. It simply takes up a little space.

Time to start building our circle!

1. Yarn over, and then insert your hook into the center of the ring, which you're holding open.
2. Work one double crochet stitch. Now you can let go of the center because the double crochet will hold it open for you.
3. Remember to crochet over the yarn tail to secure it.
4. Add 11 more double crochets for a total of 12 double crochets into the center ring.

Running out of room? Don't worry, it happens!

1. Gently pull the starting chain and completed double crochets to create more space.
2. Keep going until you have 12 double crochets.

Accuracy is key for a perfect circle!

1. Remember, the initial chain two does not count as a stitch when counting.
2. Separate the double crochets with your fingers to make counting easier.
3. You should have 12 double crochets in total.

Almost there!

1. Slip stitch to join the round. Insert your hook underneath both strands of the "v" at the top of the first double crochet.

Let's make that circle grow!

1. Chain two. Remember, this chain still does not count as a stitch.

This round is all about doubling our stitches.

1. Make two double crochets (an increase) into each stitch from the previous round.
2. Work right into that very first stitch right beside the chain.
3. Consistent increases are crucial for maintaining a flat circle.
4. This increase will double the stitch count from 12 to 24 double crochets.

1. Work two double crochets into each stitch.

Let's make sure we're on track.

1. Count pairs of double crochets to ensure the correct stitch count.
2. You should have 12 pairs of double crochets, totaling 24 double crochets.

1. Slip stitch to join the round to the top of the first real double crochet.

Here's where things get a little more interesting!

1. Chain two to start the round. Remember that this chain does not count as a stitch, but it fills in space.

1. Work one double crochet into the very first stitch right by the chain.
2. Work an increase (two double crochets) into the next stitch.
3. The pattern for this round is "one double crochet, increase," repeating around the circle.

Here's a little trick to help you remember the pattern.

1. I remember it as "one" (one double crochet) and then "ink" (increase).

1. Follow the "one, increase" pattern around the circle.

1. The last stitch should be an increase.
2. You should have 36 double crochets for this round. We're adding 12 double crochets each round.

What if your stitch count is off?

1. If you don't end on an increase, double-check your stitch count. It's not a major issue if there is an extra increase as long as the stitch count is 36.

1. Slip stitch to join the round to the top of the first real double crochet.

Let's add another layer to our pattern!

1. Chain two to begin the round, remembering that it doesn't count as a stitch.

1. Work one double crochet into the first stitch.
2. Work one double crochet into the next stitch.
3. Work an increase (two double crochets) into the third stitch.
4. The pattern for this round is "one double crochet, one double crochet, increase," repeating around the circle.

1. I remember it as "one" (one double crochet), "two" (one double crochet), and then "ink" (increase).

1. Follow the "one, one, increase" pattern.

1. You should finish with an increase.
2. For round four, you want to have 48 double crochets.

1. If you don't end on an increase, double-check your stitch 48 stitch count.

1. Slip stitch to join the round into the top of the first real double crochet.

We're almost there! Just one more round to complete our circle.

1. Chain two to begin the round, remembering that it doesn't count as a stitch.

1. Work one double crochet into the first stitch.
2. Work one double crochet into the second stitch.
3. Work one double crochet into the third stitch.
4. Work an increase (two double crochets) into the fourth stitch.
5. The pattern for this round is "one double crochet, one double crochet, one double crochet, increase," repeating around the circle.

1. I remember it as "one" (one double crochet), "two" (one double crochet), "three" (one double crochet), and then "ink" (increase).

1. Follow the "one, one, one, increase" pattern.

1. You should finish with an increase right before your chain.
2. For round five, you want to have 60 double crochets.

1. If you don't end on an increase, double-check your stitch 60 stitch count.

1. Slip stitch to join the round into the top of the first real double crochet.

Congratulations, you've crocheted a circle! Now let's finish it off and talk about making it bigger.

1. Chain one to create a knot and secure the yarn.
2. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for weaving in.
3. Pull the hook up and the yarn through to finish off.
4. Snug the yarn down to secure the knot.
5. Sew in the tail to properly finish the circle.

Want to make your circle even bigger? Easy! Just continue the increase pattern.

• Round 6: 1, 2, 3, 4, Increase.
• Round 7: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, Increase.
• Round 8: 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, Increase.

Repeat this pattern until the circle reaches the desired size.

Want to learn more and connect with the crochet community? Here are some helpful resources:

• Crochet Circle Basics: Learn how to crochet circles without a magic ring! and discover a beginner-friendly method for round projects.
• The Secret Yarnery: Be sure to subscribe to The Secret Yarnery YouTube channel for more helpful tutorials and inspiration!
• Must-Have Items: You can find my favorite crochet supplies in my Amazon store.

If you have any questions or just want to share your finished circles, leave a comment below! Don't forget to join The Secret Yarnery community!

Whether you're creating a small coaster or a large blanket, mastering the perfect crochet circle opens up a world of possibilities. So grab your hook and yarn, and let your creativity flow. You'll be amazed at what you can create! Stay hooked!

Have you ever been crocheting away, only to wonder if you're looking at the "right" side of your work? It's a common question, especially when you're just starting out. I'm going to show you some super easy ways to tell the difference. Don't worry, it's simpler than you think! This is for all my beginners, so I'm going to keep it easy to understand. If you prefer to watch a video tutorial, check out my YouTube Channel.

Let's start with the basics. What exactly are the right and wrong sides of crochet, and why does it even matter?

Crochet fabric, like most fabrics, has two sides: the right side (RS) and the wrong side (WS). Think of it like this: the right side is the "public" side, the one you want everyone to see. It's usually the prettier side, with a more defined stitch pattern. The wrong side, on the other hand, is the back. It's often less visually appealing and shows the "back" of the stitches.

Knowing the difference between the right and wrong sides is important for a few reasons. Many crochet projects are designed with a specific side meant to be facing outwards. Consistent stitch placement and finishing techniques also rely on knowing which side you're working on. For example, some patterns call for specific sides to be facing to add to the design, and if you don't know which side you're looking at, you might not get the effect you're after.

So, what should you look for? Generally, the right side has more defined stitch patterns, while the wrong side often shows the "back" of the stitches and connecting loops. Keep an eye out for these clues as we explore the different methods for identifying the sides.

One of the easiest ways to tell the right side from the wrong side is by examining the outer edge of your work, especially if you haven't been turning your work after each row.

If you haven't turned your work, the right side will have little "V" shapes along the outer edge facing you. These "V"s are formed by the top of a single crochet stitch or other basic stitch. They create a clean and uniform edge that's easy to spot.

On the other hand, if you look at the outer edge and see "dimples" or small spots, that's the wrong side. These dimples are the back loops of the stitches, and they create a less defined, more textured edge. Think of it like the difference between a neatly paved road (right side) and a bumpy dirt path (wrong side).

This method is most reliable when you consistently crochet without turning after each row or round. If you've been turning your work, you'll need to use a different method. And remember, this is specifically for single crochet! Other stitches might have different characteristics.

What happens if you have been turning your work after each row? Don't worry, there's still a way to tell the right side from the wrong side!

Turning your work after each row creates a different visual effect. You'll notice that some rows look a little shorter, while others look a little taller. This unevenness is a key indicator that you've been turning.

The shorter rows are actually the ones facing you, or the right side of your work. These rows are closer to the "surface" and give the fabric its texture.

The taller rows are the back side of the stitches, or the wrong side. These rows are "pushed" back by the turning, making them appear taller.

Here's a handy trick: isolate a stitch post (the vertical part of a stitch). If you haven't been turning your work, the stitch you'll work into will be before the post. But if you have been turning, the stitch you'll work into will be after the post.

This method is helpful when you've turned your work consistently between rows. It might take a little practice to get the hang of it, but once you do, you'll be able to identify the right side in a flash.

Ready for a super easy and fun way to visualize the right and wrong sides? Think pasta! Yes, you read that right.

I know it sounds a little crazy, but trust me on this one. This analogy has helped countless crocheters identify the right side with ease. So, grab a mental plate of pasta, and let's dive in!

Imagine a plate of penne pasta, all neatly lined up and pointing in the same direction. That's what the right side of your crochet should look like. The stitches are more organized, defined, and make sense visually. There's a sense of order and structure. Each stitch lines up neatly with the one above or below it, creating a pleasing and uniform appearance.

Now, picture a bowl of elbow macaroni. It's a "hot mess" of loops and curves going every which way. Nothing really makes sense, and there's a lack of visual order. The loops look like individual macaroni pieces scattered around. It's not as visually appealing as the penne pasta side.

When you're unsure which side you're looking at, just ask yourself: "Does this look more like penne or macaroni?" The pasta analogy offers a quick and memorable way to identify the correct side. It's fun, it's silly, and it works!

Alright, now that we've covered the basics, let's move on to some advanced tips and tricks that can help you master the art of identifying the right and wrong sides of your crochet.

This is a simple but effective technique. Place a stitch marker on the right side of your work at the beginning and move it up as you progress. This eliminates any guesswork about the current side. It's especially helpful for complex patterns where it's easy to lose track. You can find some great stitch markers in the Crochet Must Haves section of my video description.

Pay close attention to instructions like "RS facing" or "WS facing" in your pattern. These instructions are crucial for achieving the intended design. Highlight these notations in your pattern for easy reference so you don't miss them.

With practice, you'll develop an intuitive sense of which side is the right side. Don't be afraid to trust your eye and go with what looks best to you. Sometimes, the difference is subtle, and it really comes down to personal preference.

Maintaining consistent tension can help make the right side more distinct. Uneven tension can blur the lines between the two sides, making it harder to tell them apart. So, focus on keeping your stitches nice and even.

Some yarns make the stitch definition clearer, making it easier to identify the right and wrong sides. Smooth, light-colored yarns are generally easier to work with in this regard. Textured or fuzzy yarns, on the other hand, can make it more difficult.

Even experienced crocheters make mistakes sometimes! Here are some common pitfalls to watch out for:

If a pattern requires turning, make sure you do it consistently. Skipping a turn can drastically alter the look of your fabric and make it difficult to identify the right side.

Some projects, like scarves or reversible blankets, are designed to look identical on both sides. These projects don't have a defined right or wrong side, so don't worry about it!

Always follow the pattern's instructions regarding right and wrong sides. Deviating can lead to unexpected results and a project that doesn't look quite right.

Especially for beginners, stitch markers can be a lifesaver. Don't hesitate to use them, even if you think you don't need them. They can save you a lot of headaches down the road.

Sometimes, the difference between the right and wrong sides is subtle. Don't get too caught up in perfectionism. Focus on enjoying the process of crocheting and creating something beautiful!

Okay, so we know how to identify the right side, but when does it really matter? Here are a few situations where it's especially important:

Patterns that use front post or back post stitches rely on the right side facing outwards to create a specific texture. These stitches create a raised or recessed effect that would be lost on the wrong side.

Intarsia and tapestry crochet involve changing colors to create designs. Identifying the right side is essential for ensuring the design appears correctly. Otherwise, your carefully planned colorwork might look like a jumbled mess!

When increasing or decreasing, the placement of these stitches can be more visible on one side. Knowing the right side helps maintain a cleaner look and ensures that your shaping is symmetrical.

When attaching buttons, appliques, or other embellishments, the right side is the obvious choice. This ensures the embellishments are displayed correctly and that your finished project looks polished.

Ready to put your newfound knowledge to the test? Here's a simple practice project to help you hone your skills:

Crochet a small square or rectangle using a basic stitch like single crochet or double crochet. Use a light-colored yarn for better visibility.

Crochet some rows without turning, and others with turning after each row. This will give you a chance to see how turning affects the appearance of the fabric.

Use the methods described in this post to identify the right and wrong sides of different sections of the swatch. Pay attention to the outer edges, row heights, and the "pasta" analogy.

Keep track of your observations. Which methods were most helpful for each section of the swatch? Did turning the work make it easier or harder to identify the sides?

Share your swatch photos and observations in the comments section! This creates a sense of community and allows for further discussion. You can also use The Secret Yarnery Facebook Group to connect with other crocheters and share your progress.

Want to learn more about crochet? Here are some helpful resources from The Secret Yarnery:

I have a whole playlist of FREE crochet classes to help you build your skills! Check it out here: FREE CROCHET CLASSES.

Prefer to learn from written instructions? I also offer a variety of written patterns for all skill levels. You can find them here: WRITTEN PATTERNS.

Stay organized and plan your projects with my A4 and letter-size crochet planners!

• CROCHET PLANNER A4
• CROCHET PLANNER LETTER SIZE

Want to stay up-to-date on all things crochet? Here's how to connect with me:

Subscribe to my YouTube channel for more crochet tutorials and inspiration! SUBSCRIBE

Become a channel member and get access to exclusive perks! JOIN the FAMILY!

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Identifying the right and wrong sides of crochet might seem tricky at first, but with a little practice, you'll be able to do it with ease. Remember to use the techniques described in this post, and don't be afraid to experiment and find what works best for you. Now you can avoid the frustration of not knowing which side to work on. Keep practicing and you'll have it mastered in no time. Thanks for joining me for Crochet Class 19! Stay Hooked!

Have you ever wanted to add more dimension to your crochet projects? Do you dream of creating those beautifully textured blankets, hats, and scarves you see online? The front post double crochet (FPdc) stitch is your secret weapon! It's a simple technique that can elevate your crochet from flat and basic to visually stunning. If you're ready to take your crochet skills to the next level, then this Crochet Class for Beginners is for you!

The front post double crochet, often abbreviated as FPdc, is a variation of the standard double crochet stitch. What makes it special? Instead of inserting your hook into the top of the stitch like you normally would, you insert it around the post of the stitch in the row below. This creates a raised, textured effect on the front of your work.

Think of it like this: a regular double crochet is like building a wall brick by brick, placing each brick directly on top of the one below. A front post double crochet is like adding a decorative column that pops out from the surface of the wall.

How does it differ from other stitches? The key difference lies in where you place your hook. A regular double crochet goes into the top of the stitch, while an FPdc goes around the body of the stitch. This simple change in technique results in a dramatically different look and feel.

The FPdc stitch is used in crochet patterns to create ribbing, cables, and other decorative effects. The FPdc creates texture.

Why should you add this stitch to your crochet arsenal? The front post double crochet offers a range of benefits that can enhance your projects in exciting ways.

First and foremost, it's all about the texture! FPdc adds dimension and visual interest to your work. Imagine a simple blanket transformed into a cozy masterpiece with raised ridges and captivating patterns.

Beyond texture, FPdc is fantastic for creating structure. It's commonly used to create ribbing for hats, cuffs, and other items where you need a stretchy, fitted edge. The FPdc stitch can create the perfect brim for a hat, ensuring a snug and comfortable fit.

But perhaps the best reason to learn FPdc is that it expands your skills! It opens up a world of new pattern possibilities. By mastering this stitch, you'll be able to tackle more complex and interesting designs, unlocking your creative potential. For more project ideas, you can explore other tutorials, like this Crochet 20-Stitch Front Post.

Before you dive in, let's gather the necessary tools and materials. You probably already have these in your crochet kit!

• Yarn: A medium-weight yarn is a great choice for learning FPdc. Choose a color that's easy to see, so you can clearly see the stitch definition.
• Crochet Hook: Select the appropriate hook size for your yarn. The yarn label will usually recommend a hook size, but feel free to adjust based on your tension.
• Scissors: You'll need scissors for cutting the yarn, of course!
• Yarn Needle: A yarn needle is handy for weaving in those pesky ends to create a clean finish.
• Stitch Markers (Optional): Stitch markers can be helpful for marking the beginning or end of your rows, especially when working on more complex patterns.

You can find a variety of Crochet Hooks, Yarn, and Scissors on Amazon, along with other essential crochet must-haves.

Before you can start working those front post double crochets, you need a solid foundation.

1. Chain: Start by creating a chain. I recommend a small number like 15-20 chains for practice. This will give you a manageable swatch to work with.
2. First Row: Work a row of double crochet stitches into your chain. This will create the base for your FPdc stitches. Remember to double crochet in the third chain from the hook.
3. Turning: At the end of the row, chain 2 (this counts as your first double crochet) and turn your work. This prepares you to begin the next row, where you'll be working the FPdc stitches.

Having a good base row is essential for creating a neat and even fabric with FPdc. Think of it as laying the groundwork for a beautiful building!

Now for the fun part! Let's break down the front post double crochet stitch into easy-to-follow steps.

1. Step 1: Yarn Over: Begin by wrapping the yarn over your hook. This is the same as you would for a regular double crochet.
2. Step 2: Insert Hook: This is where the magic happens! Instead of inserting your hook into the top of the stitch, you're going to insert it from front to back around the post of the stitch below. Skip the stitch directly behind the hook.
3. Step 3: Yarn Over and Pull Through: Yarn over again and pull the yarn through the stitch, bringing up a loop. You should now have three loops on your hook.
4. Step 4: Yarn Over and Pull Through Two Loops: Yarn over and pull through the first two loops on the hook. You'll now have two loops remaining.
5. Step 5: Yarn Over and Pull Through Remaining Loops: Finally, yarn over and pull through the remaining two loops on the hook. You've completed your first front post double crochet!

Repeat these steps for each stitch across the row. As you work, you'll see the raised texture of the FPdc begin to emerge.

This tutorial is based on Christa's video tutorial.

For a visual demonstration of the stitch, check out the video above! It breaks down each step in detail and offers a slow-motion view of the technique.

One of the fascinating things about the front post double crochet is the difference in appearance between the front and back of the work.

On the front, you'll see the raised, textured look of the FPdc. The stitches will pop out, creating a dimensional effect.

On the back, the FPdc stitches will have a recessed look. This is because you're essentially pushing the stitch forward from the back.

This difference in appearance can be used to create interesting designs. For example, you can alternate rows of FPdc and regular double crochet to create vertical stripes or other textured patterns.

Like any new technique, there are a few common mistakes to watch out for when learning the front post double crochet.

• Skipping Stitches: It's easy to accidentally skip stitches between the FPdc stitches. To avoid this, count your stitches regularly to ensure you're working into each one.
• Tight Tension: Maintaining a loose tension is key to preventing the fabric from becoming too stiff. If you find your fabric is pulling in, try using a larger hook or consciously relaxing your grip on the yarn.
• Incorrect Hook Placement: Make sure you're inserting the hook around the post of the stitch, not into the top of the stitch. This is a common mistake, but it's easy to correct once you're aware of it.
• Not maintaining a consistent stitch count: To avoid edges that look wonky, make sure that you maintain a consistent stitch count.

Ready to take your FPdc skills to the next level? Here are a few tips to help you perfect your technique.

• Practice Swatches: Before starting a larger project, practice the stitch on small swatches. This will help you get a feel for the stitch and work out any tension issues.
• Use Stitch Markers: Stitch markers can be a lifesaver, especially when working on more complex patterns. Use them to mark the beginning and end of rows, or to highlight important stitch repeats.
• Count Your Stitches: I can't stress this enough! Counting your stitches regularly is the best way to ensure accuracy and avoid mistakes.
• Consistent Tension: Maintaining consistent tension throughout your project is essential for a more even fabric. Try to keep your grip on the yarn relaxed and avoid pulling too tightly.

Once you've mastered the basic FPdc, you can start exploring variations on the stitch.

• Front Post Treble Crochet (FPtc): The front post treble crochet is similar to the FPdc, but it creates a taller stitch with even more texture. To make an FPtc, yarn over twice before inserting your hook around the post.
• Front Post Half Double Crochet (FPhdc): For a shorter stitch with a more subtle texture, try the front post half double crochet. Yarn over, insert your hook around the post, yarn over and pull through all three loops on the hook.
• Cable Stitches: You can create stunning cable stitches by working FPdc stitches across multiple posts. This involves skipping stitches and then working back to create a twisted effect.
• Combining FPdc with Other Stitches: Don't be afraid to experiment with combining FPdc with other stitches, like single crochet or treble crochet, to create interesting textures and patterns. You can also use the stitch to make a Chic Orchid Storm Scarf.
• Front Post Double Crochet Two Together (FPdc2tog): Decreasing with front post double crochet allows you to shape your work while maintaining the textured effect.

Now that you know how to make the front post double crochet, let's talk about some fun projects you can create with it!

• Ribbed Hat: Use FPdc to create the brim of a hat for a stretchy and comfortable fit.
• Cowl or Scarf: A textured cowl or scarf made with FPdc is both stylish and warm.
• Blanket Border: Add a decorative border to a blanket using FPdc for a polished finish.
• Basket: FPdc can add texture and structure to a crochet basket.
• Sweater Cuffs: Create ribbed cuffs on a sweater using FPdc for a professional look. You can create an Easy Crochet Sweater for Beginners.

When working from a crochet pattern, you'll typically see the front post double crochet abbreviated as FPdc. The pattern instructions might look something like this: "FPdc in next stitch."

If the pattern uses chart symbols, the symbol for FPdc will usually be a double crochet symbol with a small vertical line running down the post.

Want to connect with other crocheters, share your FPdc projects, and ask questions? Join The Secret Yarnery's online community on Facebook. It's a great place to get inspired, find support, and show off your creations!

Ready to expand your crochet knowledge even further? Check out The Secret Yarnery's Crochet Classes playlist on YouTube for more helpful tutorials. You might also find it helpful to review classes on the double crochet, half double crochet, or treble crochet stitches.

Don't miss out on new videos, patterns, and classes! Subscribe to The Secret Yarnery's YouTube channel and follow on social media: Instagram, Facebook, Pinterest, and Twitter.

Congratulations! You've learned the front post double crochet stitch. Now it's time to put your new skill into practice. Experiment with different yarn weights, hook sizes, and project ideas. The possibilities are endless!

What are you planning to crochet using the FPdc stitch? Share your ideas in the comments below! I can't wait to see what you create.

Have you ever wanted to add beautiful texture and ribbing to your crochet projects? Welcome to Crochet Class 21 at the Secret Yarnery! In this lesson, I'll guide you through the back post double crochet (BPdc) stitch, a technique perfect for creating those lovely ribbed edges on hats, sweaters, and blankets. This stitch is a fantastic way to expand your skills, especially if you've already tackled the front post double crochet (FPdc). Don't worry if you're new to this; I'll break it down into easy-to-follow steps. Get ready to add a new dimension to your crochet!

So, what exactly is a back post double crochet? Simply put, it's a variation of the standard double crochet stitch where you work around the post of the stitch in the row below, but from the back of your work. It differs from a regular double crochet, where you insert your hook into the top of the stitch. Unlike the Front Post Double Crochet (FPdc) which goes around the post from the front, the BPdc goes around from the back. This seemingly small change makes a big difference in the texture of your finished project. BPdc is commonly used to create ribbed textures, especially for edges, cuffs, and brims.

Why should you bother learning the back post double crochet? Because it's incredibly versatile! With BPdc, you can create ribbed edges that give a professional finish to hats, sweaters, and blankets. You can also use it to add textured patterns to blankets, scarves, and other items. The stitch definition you get with BPdc is unique and eye-catching. Mastering this stitch expands your crochet skill set, opening up a world of new projects. I love pairing it with the front post double crochet to create even more interesting textures. Imagine the possibilities!

Before we dive in, let's gather our supplies. You'll need:

• Yarn (worsted weight is great for beginners).
• A crochet hook (choose a size that matches your yarn weight).
• Scissors.
• A yarn needle (for weaving in those pesky ends).

If you need to stock up, check out my favorite Crochet Must Haves on Amazon. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

To make things easier as we go, here are a few common crochet abbreviations you should know:

• BPdc: Back Post Double Crochet
• YO: Yarn Over
• CH: Chain
• ST: Stitch

Understanding these abbreviations will help you follow crochet patterns with ease.

Before you can start back post double crocheting, you need a solid foundation. Begin by creating a chain that matches the desired width of your project. Once you have your chain, work a row of single crochet or double crochet into it. This row will serve as the base for your BPdc stitches. Keep in mind that the number of chains you need will vary depending on the specific project you're working on.

Important Tip: Use a stitch marker to keep track of the first and last stitch of each row. This will help you maintain the correct stitch count and prevent your edges from becoming uneven.

Alright, let's get to the fun part! Here's how to work a back post double crochet, step by step:

• Step 1: Yarn Over (YO)
  • Wrap the yarn around your hook, just like you would for a regular double crochet.
• Step 2: Insert Hook from Back to Front
  • This is where it gets a little different. Insert your hook behind your work, around the post of the stitch in the row below. The hook should enter from the back, go around the post, and exit on the back side again.
• Step 3: Yarn Over and Pull Through
  • Yarn over again and pull the yarn through the stitch. Remember to keep your yarn a little loose to make this easier.
• Step 4: Yarn Over and Pull Through Two Loops
  • Yarn over and pull the yarn through the first two loops on your hook.
• Step 5: Yarn Over and Pull Through Remaining Two Loops
  • Finally, yarn over and pull the yarn through the remaining two loops on your hook. That's it—you've completed a back post double crochet!

Take a close look at your completed BPdc stitch. Notice the unique texture it creates, with the stitch wrapping around the post of the stitch below. The back post double crochet pushes the stitch out from the front of the fabric, creating a raised column. This is what gives BPdc its distinctive look and feel.

Here are a few tips to help you master the back post double crochet:

• Tension Control: Maintaining consistent tension is crucial for even stitches. Try to keep your yarn at the same tightness throughout your project.
• Hook Placement: Make sure your hook is correctly positioned around the post of the stitch.
• Practice Makes Perfect: Don't get discouraged if your first attempts aren't perfect. Like any new skill, BPdc takes practice.
• Counting Stitches: Always count your stitches to ensure you maintain the correct number in each row.
• Lighting: Good lighting is essential so you can see your stitches clearly.

Pro-Tip: Use stitch markers to mark the beginning and end of your rows. This will help you keep track of your stitch count and prevent accidental increases or decreases.

Here are some common mistakes that beginners often make when learning the back post double crochet:

• Incorrect Hook Placement: Make sure you're going around the post, not through it.
• Tight Tension: Tight tension can make it difficult to insert your hook and create even stitches. Try to relax your grip on the yarn.
• Forgetting to Yarn Over: Double-check that you're yarning over at each step of the stitch.
• Skipping Stitches: Ensure you're working a BPdc into every stitch of the row below.

Troubleshooting Tip: If your fabric is puckering, you may be accidentally adding stitches. If your fabric is narrowing, you may be skipping stitches.

One of the coolest things about post stitches is how they create texture. When you alternate front post (FPdc) and back post (BPdc) stitches, you get a ribbed effect. The FPdc pushes the stitch out to the front of the fabric, while the BPdc pushes the stitch to the back. This alternating pattern creates a raised and recessed texture that's both visually appealing and fun to work with.

Now, let's talk about creating ribbing using alternating FPdc and BPdc stitches. Here’s how to create a simple ribbed pattern:

• Row 1: FPdc, BPdc repeat across the row.
• Row 2: FPdc in each FPdc, BPdc in each BPdc repeat across the row.

It's important to work the correct stitch over the corresponding stitch from the previous row to maintain the ribbed pattern.

Pattern Snippet:

• Row 1: FPdc in the first stitch, BPdc in the next stitch, repeat from * to * across.
• Row 2: FPdc in each FPdc, BPdc in each BPdc across.

You can also work BPdc in the round! This is perfect for creating seamless ribbed edges on hats or cuffs. To join your rounds neatly and avoid a visible seam, slip stitch to join, chain 2 (which counts as your first double crochet), and then begin back post double crocheting in the next stitch.

Tip: Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. This will help you keep track of your progress and prevent you from accidentally adding or skipping stitches.

Ready to take your BPdc skills to the next level? Here are a few variations you can try:

• Back Post Treble Crochet (BPTr): Create a taller, more textured stitch by yarning over twice before inserting your hook.
• Back Post Half Double Crochet (BPhdc): Create a shorter, tighter stitch by yarning over and pulling through all three loops on your hook at once.
• Multiple Yarn Overs: Experiment with wrapping the yarn around your hook multiple times before inserting it into the stitch. This will create even taller and more textured stitches.
• Changing Colors: Incorporate different yarn colors to create stripes or other fun patterns.

Need some inspiration? Here are a few project ideas that make great use of the back post double crochet:

• Ribbed Beanie: A classic project using alternating FPdc and BPdc for the brim.
• Textured Scarf: Create a cozy scarf with a combination of BPdc and other stitch patterns.
• Cowl or Neck Warmer: Use BPdc to create a snug and stylish cowl.
• Blanket Border: Add a decorative border to a blanket using BPdc.
• Sweater Cuffs: Create stretchy and comfortable cuffs for sweaters or cardigans.

BPdc can be used in combination with other crochet stitches to create unique textures and designs. Here are some stitch combinations to try:

• BPdc and single crochet (sc) for a subtle texture.
• BPdc and double crochet (dc) for a more pronounced texture.
• BPdc and shell stitch for a decorative border.

Did you know you can use BPdc to create cable-like textures in crochet? By skipping stitches and working BPdc stitches across them, you can create a raised cable effect. Here’s how to create a simple cable pattern:

• Work a row of regular double crochet stitches.
• Skip a few stitches, work BPdc stitches across the skipped stitches, then work BPdc stitches in front of the skipped stitches.

Blocking is a process of wetting or steaming your finished crochet project and then shaping it as it dries. This helps to even out your stitches, enhance stitch definition, and give your project a professional finish. It's especially beneficial for projects with textured stitches like BPdc.

There are a few different blocking methods you can use:

• Wet blocking: Soak your project in water, gently squeeze out the excess, and then lay it flat to dry.
• Steam blocking: Use a steam iron to gently steam your project, being careful not to touch the iron directly to the fabric.

To keep your BPdc projects looking their best, here are a few care tips:

• Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle.
• Lay flat to dry to prevent stretching.

Encountering problems with your BPdc stitches? Here are a few common issues and how to fix them:

• Uneven Stitches: Practice tension control and ensure consistent hook placement.
• Curling Edges: Block your project to flatten the edges.
• Tight Fabric: Use a larger hook or looser tension.
• Loose Fabric: Use a smaller hook or tighter tension.
• Misshapen Ribbing: Make sure you are alternating FPdc and BPdc correctly.

Ready to dive deeper into the world of BPdc? Here are some great resources for finding patterns and tutorials:

• Ravelry: A popular online platform for crochet patterns and projects.
• Etsy: A marketplace for handmade items, including crochet patterns.
• YouTube: A video-sharing platform with numerous Crochet Tutorial Guides.
• Crochet Blogs: Websites dedicated to crochet patterns, tutorials, and tips.

You can also explore my Yarn Patterns Collection for more inspiration.

Want to connect with other crochet enthusiasts? I encourage you to subscribe to the Secret Yarnery YouTube channel and join the Secret Yarnery Facebook group. Share your BPdc projects with the community and inspire others with your creations! I'm also on Instagram, Pinterest, and Twitter – come say hi!

Now that you've learned the back post double crochet, what will you create? I'm so excited to see what amazing things you'll make with your newfound skills! Share your projects with me on social media – I can't wait to see them!

The back post double crochet is a versatile and useful stitch that can add beautiful texture and ribbing to your crochet projects. Thank you for joining me for Crochet Class, Beginners 21. I hope you enjoyed learning how to BPdc! Stay tuned for more crochet tutorials coming soon. Remember to like, comment, and subscribe to the channel for more yarny goodness. Happy crocheting, and stay hooked!

Explore Secret Yarnery merch for fun ways to show off your crochet passion.

Dive into the world of crochet with me! Have you ever wanted to create something beautiful and useful with your own two hands? Then you've come to the right place. I'm excited to share with you how to make a no-seam, no-twist, color-changing granny square. Whether you're a complete beginner or have some experience, this guide will walk you through each step to create a granny square that looks amazing on both sides.

Before we get started, let's gather our materials. Here's what you'll need to make your granny square:

• Yarn: I recommend a four worsted weight acrylic yarn, but feel free to use any yarn you like. Scraps are perfect for this project!
• Crochet Hook: A 6 mm crochet hook works great with worsted weight yarn, but adjust based on your yarn choice.
• Yarn Needle: You'll need this for weaving in the ends to give your finished square a clean look.
• Scissors: For cutting the yarn.
• Stitch Marker: This will help you keep track of your corners, especially as you work in the round.

You can find a lot of my favorite crochet supplies in my Amazon store. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Every crochet project starts with a slip knot. Don't worry, it's easy!

1. Make a Loop: Form a loop with your yarn.
2. Yarn Over: Bring the yarn over and through the loop.
3. Tighten: Gently tighten the knot.
4. Place on Hook: Put the slip knot on your crochet hook.

Any method you normally use to create a slip knot works just fine. The most important thing is that it sits comfortably on your hook.

Let's create the center of our granny square.

1. Chain 3: Start by chaining three stitches. This counts as our first double crochet.
2. Slip Stitch Join: Now, go into that very first chain you made, right on top of the knot. Create a loop and slip stitch to join, forming a ring.
3. Chain 3 and Double Crochet: Chain three again (this counts as the first double crochet). Then, make two more double crochets into the center of the ring, for a total of three double crochets.
4. Chain 2 and Repeat: Chain two. Make three double crochets into the center of the ring. Chain two. Repeat this sequence two more times.
5. Finishing the Round: After the last set of three double crochets, chain two. Hold the beginning chain and your new stitches, and slide the ring to tighten, making more room. This will make it easier to work into the center in the next step.

Now, let's seamlessly join this round.

1. Chain 1 and Single Crochet Join: Chain one. Single crochet into the top of the beginning chain three to join. Make sure to pick up both strands of the stitch. This creates a seamless join, so there's no obvious step-up.
2. Identifying the Corners: Each side has three double crochets. The chain-two spaces mark the corners.

Time to grow our square!

1. Chain 3 and Turn: Chain three (counts as the first double crochet) and turn your work.
2. Double Crochet into the Corner: Make two more double crochets into the same corner space. You should have three double crochets total.
3. Marking the Corner: Place a stitch marker in the corner space. This will help you keep track of where the corners are.
4. Creating the Corner: In the next corner space, make a corner. This consists of three double crochets, chain two, and three double crochets.
5. Repeat: Repeat the corner sequence in the next two corner spaces.
6. Finishing the Round: In the last corner space before the stitch marker, make three double crochets, chain two, and three double crochets. In the corner space with the stitch marker, remove the stitch marker and make three double crochets.

Ready to switch colors? Here’s how to do it neatly.

1. Chain 2 and Slip Stitch Join: Chain two. Slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain three to join.
2. Securing and Cutting the Yarn: Chain one to secure. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for weaving in. Pull the yarn through and tighten the knot.

For visual learners, I have both right-handed and left-handed tutorials available on my YouTube channel.

Let’s bring in a new color.

1. Turn and Locate the Corner: Turn your work. Locate the corner before the join.
2. Joining the New Yarn: Insert the hook into the corner space, loop the new yarn, and slip stitch to join. Drop the tail to the back of the work, holding it along the back.
3. Chain 2 and Double Crochet: Chain two (counts as the first double crochet). Make two more double crochets into the same corner space. You should now have three double crochets total.
4. Double Crochet in the Side Space: Make three double crochets into the space along the side.
5. Repeat the Corner: In the next corner, make a corner. This consists of three double crochets, chain two, and three double crochets.
6. Continuing Around: Continue working three double crochets in each side space and the corner stitch.
7. Finishing the Round: When you get back to where you joined, make three double crochets in the corner space.

Let's keep the flow going.

1. Chain 1 and Single Crochet Join: Chain one. Single crochet into the top of the beginning chain three to join. This ends up right in the middle of the corner.
2. Holding the Corner: Hold the corner open with your finger. Now you've finished round three.

Let's keep building our square.

1. Chain 3 and Turn: Chain three (counts as the first double crochet) and turn your work.
2. Double Crochet into the Corner: Make two more double crochets into the same corner space. You should have three double crochets total.
3. Replace the Stitch Marker: Place the stitch marker in the corner space to mark it.
4. Double Crochet in the Side Space: Into each space along the side, make three double crochets.
5. Corners: Into the corner spaces, three double crochets, chain 2, three double crochets.
6. Repeat: Repeat the corner and side space sequences around.

Time to finish this color!

1. Chain 2 and Slip Stitch Join: Chain two. Slip stitch into the top of the beginning chain three to join.
2. Securing and Cutting the Yarn: Chain one to secure. Cut the yarn, leaving a long tail for weaving in. Pull the yarn through and tighten the knot.

To give your granny square a polished look, it's essential to weave in the ends.

1. Using a Yarn Needle: Thread the yarn tail onto a yarn needle.
2. Weave the Tail: Weave the tail into the back of the work, following the stitches to hide it.
3. Trim Excess: Trim any excess yarn.
4. Repeat: Repeat for all yarn tails.

To give your granny squares a professional finish, blocking is essential. It evens out the stitches and ensures the square maintains its shape. There are two main methods:

1. Dampen the Square: Lightly dampen your granny square with water. You can use a spray bottle or gently soak it.
2. Pin to Shape: Pin the square to a blocking board or an ironing board. Shape it to the desired size, ensuring the corners are square and the edges are straight.
3. Dry Completely: Let the square dry completely before removing the pins. This may take several hours or overnight, depending on the humidity.

1. Pin to Shape: Pin your granny square to a blocking board or ironing board, shaping it as desired.
2. Steam Carefully: Hover a steam iron over the square, being careful not to touch the yarn directly with the iron. The steam will relax the fibers and help the square hold its shape.
3. Cool and Dry: Let the square cool and dry completely before removing the pins.

One of the best parts about crochet is the ability to customize your projects. Here's how you can make your granny square unique:

• Varying the Colors: Experiment with different color combinations to create unique designs. Use scraps of yarn to make a colorful, eclectic granny square.
• Changing the Size: Repeat rounds three and four to make the granny square as large as you want. Adjust the number of rounds to create different sizes for various projects.
• Playing with Textures: Incorporate different stitch patterns into the granny square to add texture and visual interest. Try using bobble stitches, puff stitches, or popcorn stitches to create unique effects.
• Adding Embellishments: Embellish the granny square with beads, buttons, or embroidery to personalize it. Add fringe or tassels to the edges for a decorative touch.

For more inspiration and patterns, check out the free patterns available at Secret Yarnery.

Now that you know how to make a granny square, what can you create with it? Here are a few ideas:

• Granny Square Blankets: Join multiple granny squares to create a cozy and colorful blanket. Arrange the squares in a pattern or randomly for a unique look.
• Granny Square Bags: Sew granny squares together to make a stylish tote bag or purse. Add lining and handles for a professional finish.
• Granny Square Clothing: Create granny square cardigans, vests, or skirts for a retro-inspired look. Adjust the size and shape of the squares to fit your body.
• Granny Square Accessories: Make granny square scarves, hats, or coasters to add a pop of color to your wardrobe or home. These small projects are great for using up yarn scraps.
• Granny Square Pillows: Sew granny squares together to make decorative pillow covers. Use different color combinations to match your home decor.

Here are some tips to help you create perfect granny squares every time:

• Maintain Consistent Tension: Keep your tension consistent throughout the project to ensure uniform stitches and a square shape. Practice maintaining even tension to avoid wonky or distorted squares.
• Count Your Stitches: Count your stitches in each round to avoid mistakes and ensure the square is growing correctly. Use stitch markers to mark the beginning and end of each round.
• Choose the Right Hook Size: Use the recommended hook size for your yarn to achieve the desired gauge. Experiment with different hook sizes to see what works best for your tension and yarn.
• Weave in Ends Securely: Weave in your ends securely to prevent them from unraveling over time. Use a yarn needle to weave the tails into the back of the work, following the stitches.
• Block Your Finished Squares: Blocking your finished granny squares helps to even out the stitches and give them a professional finish. Wet blocking or steam blocking can be used to shape and set the squares.

Even experienced crocheters run into issues sometimes. Here are some solutions to common problems:

• Granny Square is Twisting: Make sure you are turning your work in the same direction each round. Avoid pulling the yarn too tight, as this can cause the square to twist.
• Granny Square is Not Square: Count your stitches to ensure you are making the correct number of stitches in each round. Maintain consistent tension throughout the project. Block the finished square to help shape it and even out the stitches.
• Seams are Visible: Use the no-seam joining method described in this tutorial to create seamless transitions between rounds. Weave in your ends carefully to hide them and avoid creating bulky seams.
• Color Changes are Jagged: Use the slip stitch join method described in this tutorial to create clean, even color changes. Carry the yarn up the side of the work to avoid cutting and rejoining the yarn for each color change.

For more helpful tips and tricks, consider signing up for the Secret Yarnery newsletter.

Once you have a pile of granny squares, you'll need to join them together. Here are a few methods:

• Mattress Stitch: The mattress stitch creates a flat, invisible seam. It's perfect for blankets and garments.
• Single Crochet Join: The single crochet join creates a textured seam. It's quick, easy, and adds a decorative touch.
• Slip Stitch Join: The slip stitch join creates a flat, but visible seam. It's ideal for projects where you want to highlight the seams.

Here are some tips for joining:

• Use the same yarn and hook size to join the squares as you used to crochet them.
• Block the squares before joining to ensure they are all the same size and shape.
• Weave in the ends as you go to avoid having to weave in a lot of ends at the end.

Don't forget to check out my weekly podcasts for more tips and project ideas.

To keep your crochet projects looking their best, proper care is essential.

• Washing Instructions: Crochet projects made from acrylic yarn can usually be machine washed on a gentle cycle with cold water. For more delicate fibers like cotton or wool, hand washing is recommended.
• Drying Instructions: To prevent shrinking or distortion, lay your crochet projects flat to dry. Avoid using a dryer, especially for natural fibers.
• Storage Tips: Store your crochet projects in a clean, dry place away from direct sunlight. Consider using moth-repellent sachets to protect them from pests.

Remember, no two granny squares are exactly alike, and that's part of their charm. Embrace the imperfections in your crochet work. They add character and make your projects unique. Don't be afraid to experiment and have fun! Crochet is a creative outlet, so enjoy the process of learning and creating.

For support and inspiration, join our Friday live chats every Friday at 5 PM in Nairobi. Find more crochet tutorials for beginners on my blog.

Creating a no-seam, no-twist, color-changing granny square is a fantastic way to begin, or continue, your crochet journey. Remember the steps: slip knot, chain, double crochet, and seamless joins. Keep practicing, keep experimenting, and most importantly, keep creating. Stay hooked!

Have you ever wanted to create a beautiful, eye-catching granny square that's both easy to make and doesn't twist or have unsightly seams? I'm excited to share my go-to granny square pattern with you! This pattern is perfect for using up your yarn stash, and the color changes add a fun, unique touch. Plus, it looks fantastic on both sides! You can easily adjust the size and color combinations to fit your needs. If you are looking for a crochet class, beginners, granny square projects are perfect to learn!

Ready to get started? Follow along with my video tutorial and the written pattern on my website. Let's dive in and create something beautiful together!

Traditional granny squares can be a bit frustrating. Have you ever dealt with the center twisting to one side? Or those visible seams that run up the edges? This pattern solves those problems.

One of the best features is the hidden join. You won't see any obvious seams running along the sides. Each join is cleverly concealed within the stitches. Another huge advantage is that the center stays perfectly square. No more wonky, twisted centers! You can also customize the size and colors to your heart's content. Make it as big or as colorful as you like!

These features combine to create a granny square that looks polished and professional. You'll be amazed at how easy it is to achieve such a high-quality result.

Before we begin, gather your materials. Here's what you'll need:

• Yarn (Size 4 worsted weight acrylic recommended)
• 6 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Needle for sewing in ends

This project is a fantastic stash buster. Raid your yarn collection and use up those leftover bits and pieces!

Let's start with the basics. Make a slip knot on your hook. There's no right or wrong way to make a slip knot, so use whichever method you prefer. Just make sure it's snug on your hook.

Now we'll create the foundation of our granny square:

1. Chain 3.
2. Insert your hook into the very first chain (the one right on top of your slip knot).
3. Slip stitch to form a ring.

It's important to hold that ring open with your finger and thumb as you work. This will give you plenty of room to create your stitches.

Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet). Then, make two double crochets into the center of the ring. Make sure you crochet over your yarn tail to secure it as you go.

Let's finish up round one:

1. Chain 2.
2. Make three double crochets into the center of the ring.
3. Repeat the chain 2 and three double crochets sequence twice more.
4. Chain 2.
5. Slip stitch to the top of the initial chain 3 to join.

If you're running out of space in the ring, slide those stitches back to make more room. This will help your double crochets lay down nice and flat.

To end the round, chain 1 to secure and cut your yarn, leaving a tail long enough to sew in later. Pull your hook up and your yarn through, then snug it down to secure.

Time to add a new color!

1. Turn your work.
2. Insert your hook into the corner space right before your join.
3. Grab a loop of your new color, leaving a tail long enough to sew in later.
4. Slip stitch with both strands to join.
5. Drop your tail and hold it along the back of your work.
6. Chain 2 (or 3, depending on your joining method). This counts as your first double crochet.

Remember to hold that tail along the back of your work so you can crochet over it.

Corners are key to creating the square shape. In each corner space, you'll create a "corner." A corner consists of:

• Three double crochets
• Chain 2
• Three double crochets

Don't forget to slide those stitches back if you need more room. It'll help them lay down flat.

Let's complete round two:

1. Repeat the corner sequence (three double crochets, chain 2, three double crochets) in each corner space.
2. When you get back to the starting corner, complete the corner.
3. Chain 2 and slip stitch to the top of the chain 3 to join.
4. Chain 1 to secure and cut your yarn, leaving a tail.

Snug that yarn down tight to secure the knot.

Ready for another color change?

1. Turn your work.
2. Find a corner where you haven't joined your yarn yet.
3. Slip stitch to join the new color, leaving a tail.
4. Chain 2.

As before, hold the tail along the back of your work.

Now we'll work the sides and corners. Remember, every corner gets a "corner" (three double crochets, chain 2, three double crochets). Each side space gets three double crochets.

If you're joining in a corner, hold that tail along the edge of your work. That way, you can work over it with your new stitches.

Don't be afraid to slide those stitches back to create more space.

Let's finish up round three:

1. Repeat the side and corner sequences around the square.
2. When you get back to the starting corner, complete the corner.
3. Chain 2 and slip stitch to the top of the chain 3 to join.
4. Chain 1 to secure and cut your yarn, leaving a tail.

Remember to secure that yarn!

Time for round four!

1. Turn your work.
2. Find a corner where you haven't joined your yarn.
3. Slip stitch to join the new color, leaving a tail.
4. Chain 2.

Hold that tail along the side of your work.

In this round, each side space gets three double crochets. Each corner gets a "corner" (three double crochets, chain 2, three double crochets).

Pause the video and keep working your way around the square. I'll meet you when you get back to where you started!

Let's complete round four:

1. Finish the corner where you started with three double crochets.
2. Chain 2 and slip stitch to the top of the chain 3 to join.
3. Chain 1 to secure and cut your yarn, leaving a tail.

And again, secure that yarn nice and tight.

Want to take your granny squares to the next level? I'll show you a secret join technique that creates a seamless finish. It hides that visible chain on the side of the square.

Here's how to do it:

1. Chain 1.
2. Single crochet to join in the same spot where you would normally slip stitch.
3. Chain 3.
4. Turn your work.
5. Two double crochets into the first corner space.
6. Mark the corner with a stitch marker.

That stitch marker is important! It'll help you identify the corner later on.

If you want to keep crocheting with the same color, you absolutely can. The stitch marker will help you remember which space is the corner and which are the side spaces.

Even with a great pattern, mistakes can happen. Here are some common issues and how to avoid them:

• Twisting Center: This often happens if you crochet too tightly. Try to even out your tension.
• Visible Seams: Make sure you're using proper joining techniques. Weaving in your ends correctly is also key.
• Uneven Sides: This usually means you're adding stitches in the wrong place. Double-check that you're following the stitch pattern carefully.
• Holes in Corners: This can occur if you don't chain enough stitches in the corner. Remember, it's chain 2!
• Choosing the Wrong Yarn: Using the wrong yarn type or weight can affect the overall look and feel of your square.

Want to make your granny squares even better? Here are some helpful tips:

• Maintain Consistent Tension: Keep your tension even throughout the project.
• Use Stitch Markers: Mark the corners to keep track of your progress, especially if you're working on a large project.
• Block Your Granny Squares: Blocking helps even out the shape and size of your finished squares.
• Choose the Right Hook Size: Make sure your hook size matches your yarn weight.
• Practice: The more you practice, the better you'll become.

Color is where you can really let your creativity shine! Here are a few ideas to get you started:

• Monochromatic: Use different shades of the same color for a subtle, sophisticated look.
• Complementary Colors: Combine colors that are opposite each other on the color wheel (e.g., red and green, blue and orange).
• Rainbow: Use a variety of colors for a vibrant and playful effect.
• Neutral: Use neutral colors like beige, gray, and white for a classic and elegant look.
• Seasonal: Use colors that reflect the current season (warm tones in autumn, cool tones in winter).

Don't be afraid to experiment and come up with your own unique color combinations!

Granny squares are incredibly versatile. Here are just a few project ideas:

• Blankets
• Pillows
• Scarves
• Bags
• Sweaters
• Vests
• Hats
• Coasters
• Wall hangings

Let your imagination run wild and customize your projects to suit your personal style!

Once you have a pile of beautiful granny squares, you'll need to join them together. There are several methods to choose from:

• Slip Stitch Join: A simple and quick method.
• Single Crochet Join: Creates a more secure and textured join.
• Invisible Join: Hides the seam for a seamless look.
• Flat Braid Join: Adds a decorative element.

For a neat and professional finish, be sure to use consistent tension and stitch counts.

To keep your granny square projects looking their best, follow these care instructions:

• Washing: Hand wash or machine wash on a gentle cycle.
• Drying: Lay flat to dry to prevent stretching.
• Storage: Store in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight.

Even experienced crocheters run into problems sometimes. Here are some common issues and their solutions:

• Squares Not Laying Flat: Blocking can help even out the shape.
• Gaps Between Squares: Use a tighter join or add extra stitches.
• Uneven Edges: Ensure consistent tension and stitch count.
• Yarn Tangling: Use yarn bowls or wind yarn into cakes before starting.

Ready to take your granny square skills to the next level? Try these advanced techniques:

• Popcorn Stitch: Adds a textured element.
• Puff Stitch: Creates a fluffy and dimensional effect.
• 3D Granny Squares: Adds depth and visual interest.
• Motif Combinations: Create complex designs by combining different granny square motifs.

Crochet isn't just a craft; it's a passion. Here's why it's such a wonderful hobby:

• Relaxing and Therapeutic: Helps reduce stress and anxiety.
• Creative Outlet: Allows you to express your creativity and create unique items.
• Portable: Can be done anywhere, anytime.
• Affordable: Requires minimal materials and tools.
• Social: Connect with other crocheters online and in person.

Want to connect with other crochet enthusiasts? Join the Secret Yarnery community! Get access to exclusive patterns, participate in live Q&A sessions, and find support and inspiration. You can find us on various platforms, including YouTube.

Looking for more crochet patterns and tutorials? Head over to the Secret Yarnery website for a wealth of resources! There you can find great projects to grow your skills.

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Choosing the right yarn can make all the difference in your granny square projects. Consider the yarn weight, fiber content, and color. Choose a yarn that is easy to work with and provides good stitch definition. Experiment with different yarns to find your favorites.

Crochet hook sizes can be a bit confusing, with different numbering systems used around the world. Refer to the pattern to help find the best hook for your project.

Weaving in ends securely is essential for a polished and durable finish. Use a yarn needle to weave the ends through the back of the stitches. Weave in the ends in different directions to prevent them from unraveling. Trim the ends close to the fabric.

Blocking can help even out the shape and size of your granny squares, giving them a more professional look. There are several blocking methods to choose from, including wet blocking, steam blocking, and spray blocking. Experiment with different methods to find the one that works best for you.

This color-changing granny square pattern is not only easy to make but also incredibly versatile and rewarding. With its hidden join and no-twist design, you'll create beautiful, professional-looking squares every time. So, grab your hook and yarn, and let your creativity flow! I would love to see what you create!

And don't forget to join the Secret Yarnery community. It's a great place to connect with other crocheters, share your creations, and get inspired! Stay hooked!