Crochet Granny Square Sweater Tutorial (Two Squares) 2026

Crochet Granny Square Sweater Tutorial (Two Squares) 2026

If you've ever wanted a Crochet Granny Square Sweater that feels relaxed to make and easy to fit, this is the kind of project you can sink into. The whole sweater starts with two large granny squares, then you join the neckline, close up the underarms, and add simple rounds at the bottom to get the fit you like.

You can keep it scrap-y and colorful like Christa did, or make it solid and classic. Either way, the construction stays simple, and you can try it on as you go, which makes sweater-making feel a lot less scary.

Supplies that make this sweater simple (and adjustable)

This sweater is designed for worsted-weight yarn and a larger hook, so it works up quickly and stays soft. Christa used worsted-weight (size 4) acrylic scraps and chose a palette that blended well across the whole sweater.

Here's what you'll need:

• Yarn (worsted-weight, size 4): Use scraps or full skeins. Christa used 585 g (about 965 m) for her size, which is a little under six 100 g balls. Your yarn amount will change based on your body size and how long you make the sweater.
• Crochet hook (6.5 mm): This gives a comfy, flexible fabric that drapes nicely.
• Stitch markers: A handful helps you mark armholes and keep joins lined up.
• Scissors and a yarn needle: You'll need both for clean finishing.

If you're gathering supplies as you go, the video description includes these links: worsted-weight yarn options, a 6.5 mm crochet hook, and sharp-tip yarn needles. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Yarn is the easiest part to customize. Change colors every round for a "fancy" look, do 2 to 3 rounds per color for bolder stripes, or use one shade for a clean, simple sweater.

If you prefer learning from the left-handed view, there's also a left-handed sweater tutorial video.

Make two granny squares that fit your body (not someone else's)

The "pattern" for this sweater is really the sizing method. Once your squares fit the way you want, the sweater fits because the joins create the shape.

Christa made 21 rounds for each square. That number is a guide, not a rule. Your row count depends on your body and on how drapey your yarn and hook combination is.

How big should each granny square be?

Fold one square in half and use it like a mini "panel." Christa's target was from the top of the shoulder down to just under the bust. You can stop higher for a cropped fit, or keep going for more length before you even start the bottom edging.

Color planning is also flexible. Christa used a repeating vibe (a neutral, then three rounds of color), but she mixed the order so one square didn't look "too blue." Matching squares look polished, while mixed squares look playful.

Round 1: Start your center and create four corners

Christa uses a chain ring to begin (you can use a magic ring if you prefer). The goal is to create four corners right away, because each corner becomes a side of your square.

1. Make a slip knot, then chain 3.
2. Slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring.
3. Chain 3, then make 2 double crochets into the center of the ring.
4. Chain 2, then make 3 double crochets into the ring.
5. Repeat step 4 until you have four sides total (four groups of 3 double crochets), with chain 2 between each group.
6. If you're continuing in the same color, Christa joins with a single crochet (not a slip stitch), then chain 2, turn, and continue.
7. If you're changing colors every round, she ends with chain 2, slip stitch to the top of the chain to join, then chain 1, cut yarn, and secure.

A small but helpful detail is working over the yarn tail for the first few stitches. That saves time later because you won't have as many ends to weave in.

Rounds 2 and beyond: the repeat that grows your square

Once round 1 is done, every round follows the same logic:

• Each corner always gets: 3 double crochets, chain 2, 3 double crochets (all in the same corner space).
• Each side space gets: 3 double crochets.
• Each new round adds more side spaces, so the square grows evenly.

Christa also flips (turns) her granny square every round. This matters more than you'd think. Turning keeps your square from slowly twisting, so it stays square instead of leaning to one side.

When joining a new color, she joins in a corner she hasn't used recently, then:

• Slip stitch to join
• Chain 2 (counts as the first double crochet)
• Work 2 more double crochets into that same corner space
• Continue with corners and side spaces as normal

If you crochet many rounds in the same color, corners can start to blend in. In that case, a stitch marker in a corner space can save you from accidentally sailing right past it.

Finish both squares (and keep yarn attached on the second square)

Make two squares to the same size. Once you finish the first square, cut the yarn as usual.

For the second square, you'll finish the last round, but you won't cut your yarn. You'll use that working yarn to start joining the sweater right away, which keeps the neckline join tidy and saves a step.

If you like exploring other sweater constructions too, this related project is worth bookmarking: easy 4 granny square sweater pattern.

Join the neckline and shape the front and back opening

Once you have two big squares, the sweater looks like it should still be flat, but the joins change everything fast. The key is lining up the edges correctly before you start.

Christa's quick "check" is simple:

• Put the pretty V stitches along the edge facing up.
• Keep the "spaghetti" side (all the ends and texture) out of sight while you join.

Neckline join: single crochet along one side

At the end of your last round on square two, join and position yourself so you can connect to square one.

Christa:

1. Completes the last corner, then does chain 1 and a single crochet join into the top of the starting chain.
2. Picks up the first square, then places the working loop into the matching corner space.
3. Chains 1, rotates the work, and then single crochets along the edge.

The join is one single crochet into each stitch along that side, up to the corner. When you hit the corner space, work a single crochet into it, then repeat the same corner-to-corner connection for the other side. That second join creates the neck hole area.

Build the back neck height with a slip stitch join

After the neckline opening is set, Christa uses a repeat that's easy to count visually:

• Slip stitch into the space on the "already finished" square
• Three single crochets across the next set of three stitches on the working square
• Repeat up the back

She joined six blocks high on the back to help the sweater sit securely on the shoulders. You can join fewer or more depending on the neckline you want.

Customize the front V depth before you commit

For the front, Christa single crochets along the edge until she's a few blocks away from the end, then she joins some blocks to partially close the front.

She tested joining three blocks in the front and tried it on before cutting yarn. That try-on step is worth copying, because crochet stretches with wear, and a neckline that feels perfect now can relax later.

If you're unsure, stop early. You can always close the front more, but opening it back up means frogging joins.

Mark the underarms and use the chain join for easy sleeves

After the neckline is done, you can fold the piece to see the sweater shape: neck at the top, sleeves on the sides, and the open seams waiting underneath the arms.

This is where stitch markers keep everything calm.

Mark armholes based on your own measurement

Christa used her bust measurement as a guide, then planned the underarm opening. Her example:

• She measured around her widest part (about 36 inches for comfort).
• She divided that in half for the front panel width (about 18 inches).
• Because crochet stretches, she aimed a bit smaller (about 17 inches).

Then she counted "shells" (sets along the edge) and decided to skip seven shells on each side, placing a stitch marker between shells 7 and 8 on both panels. Your number may be different, so count what matches your body and your preferred fit.

Flip the sweater so the "macaroni" side faces out (inside of sweater facing you). That way the join looks cleaner from the outside when you wear it.

Underarm and sleeve join: slip stitch and chain 3

This join is fast and forgiving, especially under the arm where you want some give.

At the marked spaces:

• Join yarn through both spaces with a slip stitch
• Chain 3
• Slip stitch into the next pair of spaces
• Repeat down the seam

So the join repeats: slip stitch, chain 3 all the way to the corner. Christa keeps the slip stitches snug, which helps the seam look neat.

Once you reach the corner, slip stitch into the corner space on both squares, then chain 1 and rotate so you can work around the sleeve opening.

Finish the sleeve with a granny round, then a single crochet edge

After joining the underarm seam, Christa works:

• A round of 3 double crochets into each space around the sleeve opening
• Joins with a slip stitch to the top of the chain

Then she turns to the "pretty side" and does one final round:

• One single crochet into each stitch around the sleeve opening
• Slip stitch join, chain 1, cut yarn

Repeat the same process for the other sleeve. Once both are done, the sweater is fully assembled and ready for the bottom edge.

Finish the bottom hem to match your fit (loose, snug, or flared)

The hem is where you get to steer the silhouette. Christa suggests trying it on now because the sweater already fits, but the bottom edge decides if it feels boxy, straight, or gently shaped.

To make the options easy to compare, here's the idea in one quick table.

The big takeaway is that you don't need a new pattern for each fit. You just change what happens at the joins.

Hem round 1: join near an underarm and decide on shaping

Christa joins yarn near an underarm so the tails stay in a less noticeable spot. Then she starts a standard granny round:

• Slip stitch join
• Chain 2, then 2 double crochets into the same space (first shell)
• Continue with 3 double crochets into each space

If you want it snugger, she decreases at the seam area using a double crochet two together (dc2tog) across the space before and after the join:

• One double crochet in the first space
• Start a double crochet in the first space, leave the last two loops on the hook
• Start a double crochet in the next space, then yarn over and pull through all three loops
• One more double crochet in that same next space

That sequence starts as four stitches worth of work, but it finishes as a cleaner set of three at the top.

She repeats that decrease at key join areas, especially the front or back seam, because you typically don't want fabric ballooning there.

Hem round 2 and beyond: keep turning for a tidy look

Christa turns her work for each hem round, similar to the turning trick on the granny squares. This helps the stitches look even all the way around.

On plain rounds, it's straightforward:

• Join yarn
• Chain 2, 2 double crochets into the same space
• 3 double crochets into each space around
• At joins, work into the space before and the space after like normal

She worked a few rounds, tried it on, then decided whether she needed to change anything.

Optional flare: add increases under the arms for length

If you're making your sweater longer and want a bit more room at the hips, Christa shows an easy increase that sits under the arms.

First, find the underarm seam, then locate the space directly above it. Mark that space on both sides so the increases stay even.

When you reach that marked space, work:

• 2 double crochets, chain 1, 2 double crochets in the same space

That chain-1 creates a new space for the next round, so on the following round you'll treat it like any other space and put 3 double crochets into it.

Christa suggests doing that increase round every couple of rounds (like every 2 or 3), then trying it on to see how it feels.

Last rounds: a clean finish with a single crochet edge

For her final color choice, Christa finished with a neutral that matched the join. On the last granny-style round, she joined with a single crochet (instead of slip stitch), then chained 2 and turned. That leaves you nicely positioned in the middle of the space to keep the round tidy.

To finish the bottom edge, she adds one last round of single crochet:

• Slip stitch to join the prior round
• Chain 1 and turn (only if it keeps the single crochet on the pretty side for you)
• Single crochet into each stitch all the way around
• Slip stitch to join, chain 1, cut yarn

If your turning history is different, the goal stays the same: keep that final single crochet edge on the outside of the sweater so it looks crisp.

For another cozy wearable idea with a different construction style, this is a good next project to browse: Cozy Cardi granny-style sweater pattern.

Weave in ends, then share your sweater

Once the sweater is finished, grab your needle and weave in the tails. Because you changed colors (if you did), you'll have more ends, but most are already tucked along edges and joins, which helps keep them discreet.

After that, wear it around the house for a bit. The drape settles as the stitches relax, and the neckline and hem start to feel even better.

If you want to share your finished sweater with the community, Christa invites you to post a photo in the YouTube Community tab. You can also subscribe to the Secret Yarnery channel and check out the membership option if you like bonus content.

Conclusion

A Crochet Granny Square Sweater doesn't need complicated shaping to look good and feel comfortable. With two made-to-fit squares, a simple neckline join, and that chain-3 underarm seam, you get a wearable that's easy to customize. Try it on as you go, trust the stretch, and tweak the hem until it fits your style. When you make your next one, the hardest part will be picking colors.

Left Handed?

FAQs

1) Is this sweater beginner-friendly?

Yes. It uses basic stitches (double crochet, single crochet, slip stitch) and simple joins.

2) How do I get the right size?

Make each granny square to fit your body. Fold it in half and check the length from shoulder to just under the bust (or longer if you want).

3) Do the two squares have to match?

They need to match in size and stitch count. Colors can be different if you like a scrappy look.

4) How do I control the neckline?

Join more blocks for a smaller opening, fewer blocks for a wider or deeper V. Try it on before you cut yarn.

5) How do I choose the underarm opening?

Mark it based on your bust fit and comfort. When in doubt, leave a little more room since crochet stretches.

6) Can I change the length without changing the width?

Yes. Add rounds to the bottom hem after joining. Skip increases if you want it to hang straight.

Christa Patel is the maker behind The Secret Yarnery, where she teaches crochet in a clear, beginner-friendly way. She loves projects that are relaxing to make and easy to adjust as you go, especially colorful scrap yarn makes and simple wearables. When she is not crocheting, she shares tips, tutorials, and cozy pattern ideas to help crocheters feel confident with every stitch.