Easiest Christmas Tree Skirt Pattern for Beginners

Easiest Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt Pattern for Beginners (Free Step‑by‑Step Tutorial)

Are you ready to add a handmade touch of Christmas magic under your tree this year? This is the easiest crochet Christmas tree skirt pattern I have ever made, and it is perfect if you want something fast, fun, and festive without any stress or complicated techniques. Whether you are a total beginner or you just want a relaxing project with your favorite holiday movie on, this skirt grows quickly, feels cozy in your hands, and is completely customizable.

The pattern has a built‑in slit so it wraps neatly around your tree, and cute bow ties that close it up and keep it in place. I use simple stitches, clear shaping, and easy repeats, all explained in plain English, so you can follow along with confidence.

Why Choose This Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt Pattern?

I designed this Christmas tree skirt to be simple enough for beginners, yet relaxing and satisfying for more experienced crocheters. No complicated motifs, no joining lots of pieces, no endless counting that makes you lose your place.

This pattern is:

• Fast, fun, and festive so you can finish it in plenty of time for Christmas
• Beginner‑friendly with simple double crochet stitches and easy repeats
• Completely customizable in size and colors
• Built with a no fuss slit that wraps around your tree trunk
• Finished with cute bow ties that keep the skirt closed and add extra charm

If you are new to crochet, I walk through each step as if I am sitting right beside you. If you are more advanced, you can relax, enjoy the rhythm, and play with color, stripes, and size.

Perfect for the Holidays: Customizable and Quick

I love that this skirt has a classic look that works with almost any Christmas style. You can make it traditional with red, white, and green, or go neutral, farmhouse, or completely bold.

You can:

• Make a small version for a tabletop tree
• Work a medium size for a kid’s bedroom or hallway
• Keep going for a big, cozy skirt under your main living room tree

The built‑in slit wraps neatly around the trunk, so there is no fuss wrestling it around your tree. The bow ties keep everything in place and add a sweet handmade detail along the opening. Because the pattern is built on simple repeats, you decide when to stop and how large your skirt will be.

If you enjoy exploring different Christmas tree skirt styles, you might also like seeing how others approach them, like the textured Farmhouse Christmas Tree Skirt crochet pattern that uses thicker yarn for a sweater‑like look. It is fun to see how many ways there are to dress a tree.

Materials You Will Need

For my skirt, the finished size is about 42 inches across, which works nicely for a standard living room tree. You can easily adjust the size by working more or fewer rows.

Yarn Choices for Your Skirt

For my 42 inch skirt, I used:

• 5 balls of worsted weight acrylic (size 4)
  • 2 balls white
  • 2 balls red
  • 1 ball green

Any regular size 4 worsted weight yarn will work. The acrylic makes it durable, easy to wash, and nice to work with, and the color options are endless. You can keep it cozy and customizable by choosing whatever color combo matches your decor.

If you use different yarn, just keep in mind that thinner yarn will need more rows for the same size, and thicker yarn will grow faster with fewer rows.

Special Finish: Eyelash Yarn Edge

For the last row only, I used about half a ball of size 4 eyelash yarn (I used Eyelash Dazzle) to create a sparkly border. It gives the edge a bit of glitz and shine without adding extra work.

We simply crochet that final row in eyelash yarn, using the same stitch pattern as before. The fuzzy texture hides any tiny imperfections and makes the skirt look extra festive.

Essential Tools to Gather

Here is what I used for this pattern:

• 6 mm crochet hook for smooth, comfortable stitching with worsted yarn
• 9 stitch markers (very helpful if you are new, optional if you are experienced)
• Sharp scissors to trim ends
• Yarn needle for sewing in tails and finishing ties

Stitch markers help you keep track of your chain spaces, especially at the beginning while you are getting used to the repeat.

Sizing Tips Before You Start

My finished skirt is about 42 inches across and I worked 33 rows before the eyelash border. To change the size, just stop earlier for a smaller skirt or keep going for a larger one, and adjust your yarn amount to match.

Getting Started: Preparation Basics

Before you grab your hook, it helps to know where you are going. The video tutorial has clear timestamps so you can jump straight to the part you need, like materials, color changes, or ties.

If you like having written instructions in front of you, you can follow along with the printable pattern and stripe planner on my website. I write all my patterns in plain English, so they are easy to read even if you are new to crochet.

Set up a comfortable spot, good lighting, and maybe a cozy drink. One of the best parts of crochet is that you can pause and resume any time, so go at your own pace and enjoy the process.

If you are hunting for more easy and quick tree skirt ideas, there are lots of fun options out there, including bulky yarn patterns like this Christmas tree skirt crochet pattern with video tutorial.

Step 1: Creating the Foundation Chain

We start at the slit opening, right where the skirt will wrap around the tree trunk.

Making the Slip Knot

Start with a slip knot in any way you are comfortable with. Leave a 3 to 4 inch tail so you can sew it in later with a needle.

Pop the loop onto your 6 mm hook and snug it up, but do not make it too tight. This simple start sets you up for a foundation that does not pucker or pull.

Chaining Your Base

Now chain 22.

Count out loud if that helps: 1, 2, 3, all the way to 22. Try to keep your chains even, not too loose, not too tight.

You will see cute little V shapes along the front of your chain. Roll the chain slightly toward you so you can see the back bumps, or back loops, along the back side.

First Stitches in the Back Loops

We are going to work into those back loops so we keep the front V edge looking neat at the top of the opening.

1. Look under the working yarn to find the first back loop.
2. Count to the third back loop.
3. Yarn over, insert into that third back loop, and work your first double crochet.
4. Work one double crochet into the next back loop.

From here, work along the chain using this rhythm:

• Two double crochets into the next back loop
• One double crochet into the following back loop
• Repeat two in one, then one in the next, all the way across

If you are brand new and working into back loops feels fussy, you can work into the chain as usual. The skirt will still turn out fine, the back loops simply give a cleaner edge.

At the end of the row, make sure you work into the very last back loop. When you count your stitches (do not count the starting chain), you should have 29 double crochets. This is the center section that will sit around the tree trunk.

Step 2: Shaping Row 2 for the Slit

Row 2 is where we start building the sections of the skirt and creating the structure that will radiate outward like wedges.

Turning and Chaining Back

Chain 2, then turn your work.

This chain 2 counts as your first double crochet. Work one double crochet into the very first stitch. That gives you two double crochets in that first stitch, which is your first increase.

Building the Increases

Now work:

• One double crochet into each of the next two stitches
• Chain 1

Pop a stitch marker into that chain 1. That chain space marks the gap between two sections.

Then repeat this sequence:

• Two double crochets into the next stitch (an increase)
• One double crochet into each of the next two stitches
• Chain 1 and add a stitch marker to that chain

You keep repeating that all the way along the row. Each little group between chain spaces is one section of your tree skirt.

If you need to, pause the video at this point and work section by section. The rhythm becomes very natural after a few repeats.

Finishing the Row

At the end of the row, you will finish just like you started:

• Two double crochets into the next stitch
• One double crochet into the next stitch
• One double crochet into the top of the turning chain from the previous row

When you go into that chain, make sure you have two strands of the chain on top of your hook. This keeps your edge neat and prevents gaps.

Row 2 sets up all the sections and chain spaces that you will use to grow the skirt.

Why Stitch Markers Help So Much

Stitch markers are handy for marking each chain 1 space. When you reach a marker, you know exactly where to chain and jump into the next section.

If you are comfortable spotting chain spaces, you do not need to move the markers up each row, you can leave them in Row 2 as a guide. If you are brand new, keep using them until the pattern feels familiar.

Step 3: The Repeat Rows That Grow Your Skirt

From Row 3 onward, the pattern becomes very repetitive and relaxing. Each row is built in the same way, and each section grows by one stitch per row.

Starting Row 3: The Core Pattern

For Row 3:

1. Chain 2, turn your work.
2. Work one double crochet into the first stitch. Now you have a total of three double crochets at the start of this section when you count the chain.
3. Work one double crochet into each stitch across until you reach the chain space or stitch marker.

When you hit the chain space:

• Chain 1
• Work two double crochets into the first stitch of the next section
• Then one double crochet into each stitch of that section until you reach the next chain space

You keep repeating this around the row.

How Each Row Expands

Every row, each section grows by one stitch. The increase is always two double crochets in the first stitch of that section, then one in each of the rest.

You do not need to move your stitch markers up, because the chain space is easy to see as you go. The structure gives a very steady growth that creates a smooth, flared shape.

Working the Full Repeat

Here is the repeat in words:

• At the start of a section, work two double crochets into the first stitch
• Work one double crochet into every stitch in that section until you reach the chain space
• Chain 1 at the chain space and jump into the next section

At the end of each row, remember to:

• Treat the last section just like the others
• Work your last double crochet into the top of the turning chain

This final stitch into the chain keeps both edges straight so your slit lines up nicely when you tie the bows.

Row 4 and Beyond

Row 4 and all the rows after that follow the same idea.

• Chain 2, turn
• One double crochet into the first stitch
• One double crochet into every stitch of the section
• At the chain space, chain 1
• Two double crochets into the first stitch of the next section, then one into each stitch

Each new row gives you one more stitch per section. You simply repeat for size until your tree skirt is as big as you want it.

Checking Your Progress

As your skirt grows, you may want to count stitches every so often to make sure each section still has the same number of stitches.

If you enjoy guided written instructions, you can pair what I have shared here with a structured step‑by‑step pattern on my site or use a printed version to track your rows and stitch counts.

If you are curious about other shaped skirts, the 6-Day Star Holiday Tree Skirt is a fun example of a star layout that still uses regular increases.

Troubleshooting Common Beginner Questions

A few things tend to pop up for beginners at this stage, so let me answer them directly.

Feeling Short on Stitches?

Near the end of the row, it can sometimes feel like you are missing a stitch. The usual reason is forgetting that last double crochet into the top of the turning chain.

Always check for:

• Two double crochets into the first stitch of the last section
• One double crochet in each stitch
• One double crochet into the chain top at the very end

Once you get used to including that last chain, your edges stay straight.

Adjusting Your Speed

If you are watching the video, remember you can slow it down or speed it up using the gear icon on YouTube. There is no rush. Work at a pace that keeps you relaxed and confident.

When to Pause

I like to work one full row at a time, then pause to stretch, check my stitches, or count a section. If you ever feel unsure, stop after a chain space and look back at your sections. Each one should be a mirror of the others.

If you enjoy chatting with other crocheters about patterns and tips, groups like this quick and easy Christmas tree skirt patterns discussion can be a nice place to see what everyone else is making.

Adding Color: Simple Stripe Changes

Color changes keep this pattern interesting without making it hard. You can follow the same stripe layout I used, or create your own.

When to Change Color

I like to change colors at the very end of a row. That keeps the joins nearly invisible along the slit.

Here is what I do:

1. Start your last double crochet of the row with the old color.
2. Stop before the final yarn over, when you have 2 loops left on your hook.
3. Cut the old yarn, leaving a tail long enough to sew in later.

Joining the New Yarn

Now bring in your new color:

1. Place the new yarn over your hook, leaving a 5 or 6 inch tail.
2. Pull the new yarn through the 2 loops on your hook to finish that last double crochet.
3. Drop both tails to the back of your work.
4. Chain 2 with your new color, turn, and keep going with double crochets as usual.

That is it. The color change is locked in at the edge and will be easy to weave in later.

Planning Your Stripes

In the written pattern, I include a stripe planner sheet that shows exactly how I arranged my red, white, and green stripes. It is handy if you want to copy the same look or sketch out your own plan.

You can keep it classic, swap in neutrals for a farmhouse feel, or switch to brights for a fun kids’ tree. If you like exploring different yarn options, many people use bulky yarns for faster results, like the one in this farmhouse style Christmas tree skirt with super bulky yarn.

Tips for Clean Color Changes

Hold both tails at the back when you start the new row so the join stays snug. You can sew them in when your skirt is finished, weaving them into the stitches of that color.

You can change colors as often as you like. Wider stripes feel calm and classic, while narrow stripes feel playful and bright.

Shaping a Round Skirt: Fixing Flat Sides

As your skirt gets larger, you might notice the sides starting to look a bit flat and the points more obvious. That happens because the increases are always lined up on top of each other.

When You Will Notice It

If you are making a small or medium skirt, you might not see this much. On a larger skirt, the sections can start looking like wedges with flat sides and sharp corners.

This is when we gently adjust where the increases go so the skirt becomes more round instead of angular.

Changing the Increase Positions

Here is the trick:

• The first section of each row stays the same. You still chain 2, turn, and work one double crochet into the first stitch so that section keeps its regular increase.
• For the other sections, you do not always place the increase in the very first stitch.

Instead, you can:

1. Work one double crochet in the first few stitches of the section.
2. Then choose a stitch somewhere closer to the center of that section and work two double crochets into that stitch.

The exact stitch you choose does not matter, as long as you do not keep stacking the increase in the same spot every row.

Marking Your Increases

If you are new to this idea, you can put a stitch marker around the post of the increase stitch, not into the top of the stitch. That marks where you increased.

On the following row, avoid that spot and move your increase to another place in the section. This spreads the increases out and gives you a more circular shape.

Simple Example

For example, you might:

• In one section, work one double crochet into the first three stitches, then two double crochets into the fourth stitch.
• In the next row, move that increase closer to the center or toward the end of the section.

Just stagger for circle and your skirt will relax into a nice round shape.

Final Sizing: How Big Should Your Skirt Be?

Before you add the fancy border, decide on your final size.

Measuring for Your Tree

Measure across the bottom of your Christmas tree, straight through the center from one side to the other. That is the diameter.

Your skirt can match that number, be a bit larger, or be slightly smaller. It depends on how much floor you want covered and how much yarn you have.

For my 42 inch skirt, I did 33 rows of the main pattern before finishing with the eyelash border.

Choosing Your Row Count

You can:

• Stop earlier if you want a tabletop or small tree skirt
• Keep going for a big, cozy circle under a large tree

Each extra row will use more yarn, so keep an eye on how much you have left.

Get Ready for the Border

Once you are happy with the size, work one more full main row in your regular yarn. That row will be the base for your eyelash border.

This is a good time to measure now, take a quick look at the overall shape, and then move on to the sparkly finish.

Adding the Sparkly Eyelash Border

The eyelash border is my favorite part because it looks fancy but is very simple to work.

Joining the Eyelash Yarn

At the end of your last row with regular yarn, change colors to your eyelash yarn in the same way you changed stripes earlier.

• Start the final double crochet of the row with your regular yarn.
• Leave 2 loops on the hook.
• Cut the regular yarn, leaving a tail.
• Place the eyelash yarn on your hook and pull it through the last 2 loops to finish that stitch.

Hold both tails at the back, then chain 2 and turn. Your eyelash border row is ready to begin.

Working the Border Row

Work this border row just like a normal pattern row:

1. Double crochet into the very first stitch after your chain 2.
2. Work one double crochet into each stitch across the first section. You already did your increase in the first stitch of that section.
3. When you reach a chain space, work two double crochets directly into the chain space. That is your increase for that section in the final row.
4. Continue around, doing two double crochets in every chain space and one double crochet in every regular stitch.

The eyelash yarn can be a bit harder to see, so feel for the stitches with your hook. The fuzz hides tiny mistakes, which makes it very forgiving.

Finishing the Edge

At the very end of the row:

• Work into the last stitches just like before.
• Make sure you also double crochet into the top of the turning chain.
• Chain 1 to secure, cut your eyelash yarn with a long tail, and pull your hook up and the tail through.

Snug the knot down gently so it is secure but does not pucker. You can sew in the eyelash tails later using your needle.

Why Eyelash Yarn Works Well Here

Because this is the last row, it does not matter if the individual stitches are hard to see later. All you notice is the glittery, fuzzy edge. Half a ball is enough for a 42 inch skirt, and it gives a big visual impact for very little extra work.

Creating the Cute Bow Ties

The bow ties are both practical and decorative. They stop the skirt from shifting and make the slit look planned and polished.

Spacing Your Ties

I like to place one tie about every 5 inches along the slit. For my 42 inch skirt, that worked out to 10 ties total, 5 on each side.

You can place them wherever you like, but I lined mine up on the first red row after the green so I could match the positions on both sides easily.

Cutting Yarn for Ties

Each tie uses one long piece of yarn folded in half.

To get a 6 foot length the easy way:

1. Measure out 3 feet of yarn.
2. Fold it back on itself so you have a loop.
3. Cut at the end so that loop becomes one 6 foot piece.

Repeat this so you have enough pieces for all your ties. Each piece will be folded in half again when you attach it.

Attaching Each Tie

Start with the top pair of ties, near the center opening.

1. Insert your hook into the space between the first two stitches along the slit.
2. Take one 6 foot piece of yarn, folded in half so you have a loop at the center.
3. Place that loop on your hook and pull it halfway through the gap.
4. Yarn over with both strands of the long tails and pull through the loop to slip stitch the tie onto the skirt.
5. Chain 24 with both strands held together to form the tie length.
6. Pull the tails through the final chain and snug them down.

That makes one tie.

To create the matching tie on the other side of the slit, count to the same row and space, insert your hook, and repeat the process with another folded strand. Keeping the ties in matching pairs helps them line up neatly when you bow them.

Sewing in Tie Ends

Each tie has two little tails at the end that need to be made tidy.

1. Thread both tails onto your yarn needle.
2. Insert the needle back into the center of the chain, working under the back loops for about five stitches.
3. Make sure you do not see the needle poking through the front or back, stay inside the “tube” of the chain.
4. Pull the yarn through gently. Do not yank or your chain tip will bunch up.
5. Trim the excess yarn close to the chain.

Repeat this for all the ties. When you are done, you will have a neat row of bows along the slit.

If you are looking for even more inspiration for tie styles, edging ideas, and shapes, there is a whole board of crochet Christmas tree skirts on Pinterest that shows just how many ways you can personalize yours.

Final Touches: Tails, Fit, and Personal Style

You are very close to finished at this point.

Sewing In All Yarn Tails

Use your yarn needle to sew in:

• Starting tails
• Color change tails
• Eyelash yarn tails
• Any ends from attaching ties

Weave them into stitches of the same color, and try to keep them hidden inside rows so they do not peek through on the front.

Checking the Fit Around Your Tree

Wrap the skirt around your tree, lining up the slit at the back or front, wherever you prefer. Tie the bows so the edges meet neatly.

The skirt should sit flat on the floor, flare out gently, and feel both festive and functional. If you staggered your increases well, it will look nicely round.

Quick Customization Ideas

You can make this pattern your own by changing:

• Color combinations and stripe widths
• Tie length and thickness
• Whether you use eyelash yarn or keep a plain edging

You could even work the whole skirt in a single color and let the texture and bows be the focus.

Adjusting Tie Placement

If you notice one tie sitting higher or lower than its partner, untie it and shift it to match the same row on both sides. Having pairs directly opposite each other makes the slit close evenly and look more polished.

Resources to Keep You Crocheting

If you enjoyed this pattern and want to keep going with easy, clear projects, there are many more ways to build your skills and your holiday decor.

You can explore more tree skirt ideas, keep a list of patterns you like, and continue to build your confidence with simple, relaxing makes.

Conclusion

This easy crochet Christmas tree skirt pattern is all about adding handmade warmth to your holidays without stress. With simple double crochets, gentle increases, and a few smart tricks for shaping and color changes, you can create a skirt that fits your tree and your style perfectly. The sparkly eyelash border and sweet bow ties are the finishing touches that turn a simple pattern into something special.

I hope this project brings you as much joy as it brings me every year when I put it under my tree. Grab your yarn, settle into your favorite spot, and stay hooked on making something beautiful for Christmas.

Left Handed?

FAQ: Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt

What skill level is this pattern?

Beginner. You’ll use basic double crochet, simple increases, and easy repeats.

What yarn should I use?

Worsted weight (size 4) acrylic works best. It’s durable, washable, and budget-friendly. Use any brand you like.

How much yarn do I need?

For a 42 inch skirt, about 5 balls of worsted weight yarn total, plus about half a ball of eyelash yarn for the border.

What hook size should I use?

A 6 mm hook. If you crochet tight, go up to 6.5 mm. If you crochet loose, try 5.5 mm.

What is the finished size?

About 42 inches across with 33 rows before the eyelash border. Stop early for smaller; add rows for larger.

How do I make it bigger or smaller?

Work fewer or more repeat rows. Each row adds a little to the diameter. Keep yarn on hand if you plan to go larger.

Do I have to use eyelash yarn?

No. You can finish with regular yarn or a simple single crochet border. Pom-poms or crab stitch also look cute.

How do I change colors cleanly?

Change at the end of a row. Finish the last double crochet by pulling through with the new color, then chain 2 and turn.

My skirt looks pointy. How do I fix that?

Stagger the increases. Keep the first section the same, then move the increase to the middle of each following section so the skirt rounds out.

Can I crochet into the chain instead of the back bumps in Row 1?

Yes. Working the back bumps gives a neater edge, but the skirt will still look great if you use the regular chain loops.

Do I need stitch markers?

They help a lot on Row 2 to mark each chain space. After that, they’re optional.

How many ties do I need?

About 10 ties for a 42 inch skirt, spaced roughly every 5 inches along the slit. Add more for a larger skirt.

How long should each tie be?

Cut one 6 foot strand, fold it in half, attach, then chain about 24 with both strands held together. Adjust for preference.

Will the eyelash yarn be hard to see?

A little. Feel for the stitches with your hook. The fuzz hides small mistakes, which is why it’s great for the final row.

Can I wash the skirt?

Yes, if you use acrylic. Hand wash or gentle cycle, cold water. Lay flat to dry. Check your yarn label.

Can I make this with bulky yarn?

Yes. Use a larger hook and expect fewer rows. Your skirt will grow faster and use fewer stitches.

How do I keep the edges straight at the slit?

Always work the last double crochet into the top of the turning chain. That one stitch keeps the edge tidy.

How do I count sections and stitches?

Each section sits between chain spaces. Each new row adds one stitch per section. Count one section to check your growth.

What if my skirt doesn’t sit flat?

Block it lightly with steam or a cool iron held above the fabric, or add one row without increases to relax the shape. If it ruffles, reduce increases on the next row.

Can I make it in one color?

Absolutely. A solid color shows off the texture and the bows. Add the eyelash border for subtle sparkle.

Christa Patel is a crochet designer, instructor, and founder of Secret Yarnery, where she turns beginner-friendly ideas into fast, festive projects people actually finish. With thousands of makers following her step-by-step video tutorials, Christa is known for simple patterns, clear teaching, and practical tips that remove the guesswork. Her work focuses on approachable stitches, easy sizing, and smart shortcuts that help busy crafters create beautiful results with confidence.

When she’s not filming tutorials or writing patterns, Christa tests yarns, answers community questions, and curates helpful resources on secretyarnery.com. You can find more of her crochet patterns, printable planners, and free video lessons on her YouTube channel and website.