Easy Crochet Coaster Pattern for Beginners (Step-by-Step Tutorial)

Easy Crochet Coaster Pattern for Beginners (Step-by-Step Tutorial)

Want a quick, satisfying make you can finish before your coffee cools? This Easy Crochet Coaster is my go-to for fast finishes and pretty results. It works up super fast, looks polished in any color combo, and is practical for everyday use. Use them as coasters or pinch-hit dishcloths for spills; either way, they wash up like a dream thanks to the natural cotton.

Why These Crochet Coasters Are Perfect for Beginners

If you’re new to crochet or just want a no-stress project, this Easy Crochet Coaster is perfect. The rounds are simple to memorize, you’ll see progress after every step, and you can finish a set in an evening. That instant win is exactly what helps build confidence.

• Absorbent and soft on tables.
• Washable like a dream with natural cotton.
• Stack nicely for storage, and look tidy tied with ribbon.

They make sweet gifts, sell well at craft fairs, and look lovely as a set. Tie four or six with a ribbon for an easy present. I also love making a matching set in two colors. Want to go bigger? I’ve got a simple method to scale up for larger coasters or to join circles into a table runner.

If you enjoy themed sets, try these coordinating patterns too: the easy sunflower crochet coaster pattern and the easy crochet heart coaster pattern.

Materials You’ll Need

Keep it simple and stash friendly. This pattern loves natural fibers and clean stitch definition.

• Crochet hook, 8 mm recommended
• 100% natural cotton yarn, 100 g ball, about 180 meters, size 3 or 4 thickness
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors
• Optional: ribbon for gifting

I use natural cotton because it is soft, absorbent, and easy to wash. Start with a center color you love, then add a crisp border, like white, for contrast. If you’d like yarn suggestions, you can explore options from my video links or browse my other coaster patterns for color ideas.

Preparing Your Yarn and Workspace

Pick your center color first, then choose your border color. I like a bold center with a fresh white edge. Leave a short tail for your starting slip knot, about two inches, so you can hold it but not waste fiber.

Set up in a comfy spot with good light. These work up quickly, so it’s easy to make a set in one sitting. Cotton feels soft in hand and is gentle on furniture, which makes these coasters both beautiful and practical.

Starting with the Slip Knot

Step 1: Forming the Slip Knot

Make a slip knot with a short tail, about two inches. Place it on your hook and snug it so it’s secure but still adjustable.

1. Loop the yarn.
2. Pull a strand through the loop and tighten gently.

Step 2: Chaining the Foundation

Chain four stitches. This small chain forms the ring for your center. Bold reminder: chain four before joining.

When counting where to join, don’t count what’s on your hook or the knot. Look for the neat V shapes between the knot and the hook.

Step 3: Joining the Ring

Insert your hook into the very first chain you made. Catch one loop of the chain on your hook, hold the tail, and gently pull a slip stitch through. Keep the center a little open with your fingers so it’s easy to work into.

Creating the Center Ring

Round 1: Building the Base Double Crochets

After joining the ring, chain four. This gives you height and your first chain space.

Work your first double crochet (DC) into the center of the ring you’re holding open. Use this sequence:

• Yarn over, insert hook into the center, yarn over, pull back.
• Yarn over, pull through two.
• Yarn over, pull through two again.

Chain one after that DC. The chain one is your spacer for the round.

Continuing the 12 Double Crochets

Make 11 more double crochets into the ring, and chain one after each. You’ll have a total of 12 double crochets, each separated by a chain one.

Running out of room? Pinch the stitches and gently pull the ring open so you can fit all the DCs. It will lay flat after joining. End the round with a chain one.

Joining Round 1

Slip stitch to the third chain of your starting chain four. Count the Vs carefully, including the small one at the base. Leave a chain space at the top to match the rest of the round. After joining, your round of 12 DCs should sit flat and look even.

Round 2: Expanding the Circle

Preparing for Round 2

Slip stitch over into the next chain space. We’ll work in spaces this round. Chain three, which counts as your first DC.

Adding Two DCs per Space

Make one more DC into that same space, then chain one. In each space around, work this pattern: two DCs, chain one. This keeps the coaster growing evenly and leaves neat spaces for the next round.

Continue to the join after working all spaces.

Joining and Visual Check

Slip stitch to the top of the chain three. A quick tip while you work: look under your hook. If you see two loops, you haven’t done the chain yet. If you see one strand, your chain is complete. Keep your slip stitches relaxed so they don’t tighten the edge.

Round 3: Increasing for Size

Starting Round 3

Slip stitch into the next space and chain three. This round uses three DCs in each space. The chain three counts as your first DC.

Building Three DCs per Space

Add two more DCs into the same space, then chain one. Jump to the next space and work three DCs, chain one. Continue this all the way around.

1. Identify the next chain space.
2. Work three DCs.
3. Chain one.

Finishing Round 3

Slip stitch to the top of the chain three. It may look like a chain two because of the earlier slip stitch, but join into the top. Chain one to secure, cut your yarn with a four inch tail, pull through, and snug down.

Count your sets around the edge. You should have 12 groups of DCs with chain spaces between them.

Weaving in the Center Tail

Weave the center tail into the back loops about five times. Give the fabric a little stretch, then weave back the other direction once or twice. This locks the tail without creating bulk. Trim close.

• 12 DC sets confirmed.
• Flat lay verified.

I like this method because the later rounds cover the tail. Less ends the better when you’re making sets.

The 12 Days of Christmas Giveaway

I love adding a little holiday cheer. In this video, I shared a giveaway:

• Prize: 8 mm Tulip crochet hook and Laura No Print yarn, 50% cotton and 50% acrylic, 160 meters per 50 g.
• How to enter: be a subscriber, hit the notification bell, and answer in the comments, “What is your favorite holiday song?”
• Musical loves mentioned: Elvis, Natalie Cole, and Frank Sinatra classics.
• Timing: entries by December 23, with the winner announced on December 24. Entering the other videos increases your chances.

If you’re not subscribed yet, you can do that here: Subscribe to The Secret Yarnery.

Adding the First Border Color

Joining New Yarn

Choose a new color for the border. I join away from where I finished to avoid extra bulk in one spot. Insert your hook into the first DC of a set so the join is easy to hide later. Pull a loop of your new yarn through, leaving a tail 3 to 4 inches long, and slip stitch to join.

Starting Single Crochets

Chain one. This counts as your first single crochet. Work one single crochet into each stitch around. In each chain space, place two single crochets.

Push your hook in, yarn over, pull back, yarn over, and pull through two. Simple and steady.

Working Over the Tail

Hold the tail along the back of your work and stitch over it for a few stitches. This secures it without extra sewing. When you reach a space, place two single crochets. Make sure you go into the first stitch after the space, even if it’s a little tucked, so your round stays even.

Navigating the Border Stitches

Handling Shells and Spaces

Each shell from Round 3 has three DCs. Work one single crochet into each DC across that shell, which gives you three single crochets, then place two single crochets into the space that follows. Repeat this all the way around.

If that first stitch after a space is hiding, pull the fabric slightly to see it and be sure you catch both loops.

Chain Space Work

Where you have chain spaces, go into the hole for your single crochets. If you’ve worked over the tail, remember to pick up that front loop next to the chain so your stitches match. Avoid going into the dimple that looks tempting; you want the loop that lines up with the rest.

Full Round Completion

Keep going evenly: one single crochet into each DC, two into each space. If you’re in doubt, pick up the front loop where the tail is to keep the look consistent. At the end, place two singles in the last space, then slip stitch into the first stitch of the round, not the second.

Securing the First Border End

Chain one after the slip stitch, cut your yarn, pull through, and snug down. Take a moment to look all the way around the coaster.

• One single crochet on every DC.
• Two singles in each space.
• Even edges.

Weave in the tail through back loops five times, then reverse direction once or twice. Trim. Check your work before moving on.

Adding the Second Border Color

Joining the Next Color

You can start anywhere. Insert your hook under both loops of a stitch, pull a loop of the new color through, and slip stitch to join. Drop the tail and hold it along the back to work over it.

Simple Single Crochet Round

Chain one for your first single crochet, then make one single crochet into every stitch around. No increases on this round. Keep your tension even for a smooth edge.

Tail Integration Reminder

When you reach the section you worked over earlier, slide under the front loop from the bottom so your stitches match the rest. When you reach the join area, make a clean single crochet into the correct spot so the round lines up.

Finishing the Second Border Round

Completing the Stitches

Work one single crochet into every stitch all the way around. Make your last single crochet into the last stitch before the join.

Slip Stitch Join

Slip stitch into the first single crochet to join. Chain three to begin the edging round that follows.

Tease Expansion

If you want to scale this design up for placemats or a table runner, set this one aside and keep the method going with more increase rounds. If you like floral sets, pair these with the beginner sunflower coasters in crochet for a coordinated table.

Final Border: Picot-Style Edging

Starting the Edging

After chaining three, skip one stitch. Single crochet into the next stitch. This starts a small lacy edge that looks neat and crisp.

Repeating the Pattern

All the way around, work this repeat:

1. Skip one stitch.
2. Single crochet into the next.
3. Chain three.

Keep your chains even so the edge sits flat and looks uniform.

Joining the Edging

At the end, keep the repeat flowing: single crochet into the second stitch, chain three. To finish, slip stitch into the next stitch, still skipping one so the spacing stays correct. Chain one, cut your yarn, pull through, and snug.

The edge looks sweet and slightly ruffled, perfect for coasters on any table.

Finishing and Cleaning Up Tails

Tail Management

You likely have several tails already woven in. You can safely cut the center tail and any tail you worked over and secured. For the new color joins or final tails that weren’t stitched over, thread a needle and weave them through back loops five times, then a couple passes back the other way.

Overall Check

Give your coaster a once-over. Look for any missed chain spaces or uneven spots. Block if needed, though cotton usually settles neatly. Stack a few to see how tidy they look as a set.

Storage and Care

Cotton is easy care.

• Machine wash on a gentle cycle.
• Air dry flat to keep the shape.

They double as small dishcloths in a pinch, and they dry quickly between uses.

Tips for Troubleshooting Common Issues

Space Running Out

If you can’t fit all 12 DCs into the ring, grip the stitches and gently pull the ring open. This gives you more room and helps the center sit flat.

Tension Problems

Keep your slip stitches relaxed. Tight slip stitches can pucker the edge and make joining harder.

Stitch Counting

Count the Vs when you join to the top of a chain. Bold reminder: don’t count the knot. Look under your hook, two loops means you still owe a chain, one strand means your chain is complete.

Color Joins

Avoid joining a new color where you just finished. Start in a different spot to prevent bulk and keep the edge smooth.

Why Cotton Yarn Works Best Here

Cotton shines for coasters. It’s absorbent, soft on furniture, and holds its shape. 100% natural cotton soaks up condensation and handles hot mugs well. It washes beautifully and looks fresh even after many uses.

A 100 g ball with about 180 meters will give you several coasters, especially with simple borders. If you’re building a larger set or planning a runner, grab a couple of balls in coordinating shades.

Scaling Up: From Coasters to Table Runner

To make larger rounds, keep increasing your DC sets by working more stitches into each chain space in later rounds. You can stop at a larger coaster size for big mugs, or keep going for placemats. Join circles together for a simple table runner that matches your coasters and makes a lovely set.

For more coaster shapes with the same skill level, try the DIY crochet hearts for table protection. They’re adorable as gifts and look great in seasonal colors.

Essential Crochet Tools for This Project

Comfort counts, especially if you’re making a set. I like ergonomic hooks, a blunt needle for weaving, and sharp scissors for clean tails.

• Hooks with comfy grips help prevent hand strain.
• Blunt tip needles slide through back loops without splitting yarn.
• A yarn winder or good storage bag helps keep cotton neat between projects.

You’ll find more beginner-friendly coaster patterns in my shop too, including the simple crochet sunflowers for home decor.

Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

Counting Errors

Always leave chain one spaces where the pattern calls for them, and confirm you have 12 sets at the end of Round 3.

Yarn Tension

Loose and steady wins here. If your circle cups or ruffles, adjust your tension, then give the coaster a gentle tug to relax the shape.

Tail Weaving

Weave each tail through at least five back loops. This keeps coasters secure through washing and handling.

Color Switching

Join away from the last join point. Work over tails when you can to reduce sewing and bulk.

How Many Coasters to Make

These are quick, so make as many as you like. Four or six make a great gift set. For a fuller set, make eight. Tie them with a ribbon and pop them in a small basket for a craft fair or housewarming present.

Holiday Gifting Ideas with Coasters

Personalize sets by color. Pick a warm center shade with white edge for classic style, or match holiday décor. Bundle coasters in stacks and tie with ribbon for a ready-to-gift look. Pair a set with the sunflower or heart coasters to round out a table set. These are super cute gifts that get daily use.

Care Instructions for Your Finished Coasters

Keep it simple with cotton care.

• Machine wash on gentle with like colors.
• Air dry flat to keep the shape.
• Store stacked to prevent creasing.
• Use for drinks or small spills, they dry quickly and don’t scratch.

Linking to More Tutorials

Prefer watching while you stitch? Here’s the right-handed tutorial linked above in this post. If you’re left-handed, I’ve got you covered with a full library of tutorials.

• Right-handed tutorial: Easy Crochet Coaster video
• Left-handed tutorials collection: All left-handed crochet videos
• Free printable: Crochet Cheat Sheet
• Want more patterns and lives? Subscribe on YouTube

Final Stitch Tips from the Tutorial

• Count the Vs of chains to find the correct join spot.
• Insert under two loops for secure stitches.
• Gently pull the center ring if you need space.
• After fasten off, snug the yarn to lock the round.

Community and Next Steps

Tell me your favorite holiday song in the video comments, and share your finished coasters with the community. I post new videos on weekdays at 6 p.m. Central, so there’s always something fresh to try. If you want more beginner-friendly coaster patterns, the simple heart coasters tutorial is a favorite.

Conclusion

This Easy Crochet Coaster is fast, practical, and beginner friendly. You’ll learn simple rounds, clean joins, and tidy borders, plus a pretty edge that makes each piece feel finished. Make a set in your favorite colors, then scale up for placemats or a table runner. If you enjoyed this, subscribe for more tutorials and patterns, and share your makes with me. Have fun, keep it light, and enjoy the super fast wins that keep your hook happy.

FAQs

What yarn is best for crochet coasters?

100% cotton is best. It is absorbent, washable, and holds shape. Acrylic can melt under heat and isn’t as absorbent.

What hook size should I use?

Use an 8 mm hook for this pattern. If your stitches look loose or holes appear, try a 7 mm. If it feels tight or curls, try a 9 mm.

How big is the finished coaster?

About 4.5 to 5 inches across with cotton yarn and an 8 mm hook. Size varies with yarn weight and tension.

How much yarn do I need per coaster?

Roughly 15 to 25 meters per coaster, depending on tension and border colors. A 100 g ball at ~180 m makes several coasters.

Can I use acrylic yarn?

You can, but it is less absorbent. Acrylic is fine for cold drinks. For hot mugs and spills, cotton is better.

My coaster is ruffling or cupping. What did I do wrong?

Ruffling means too many stitches or loose tension; go down a hook size or ease off increases.

Why do I keep losing my join spot?

Count the Vs of your starting chain. Join to the top of the chain three (or four in Round 1), not the space. Look for two loops on top.

How do I hide color joins neatly?

Join a new color in a different spot than the fasten-off tail. Work over the tail for a few stitches, then weave the rest into back loops.

Can I make these larger?

Yes. Keep adding rounds by increasing the DC groups in each space. Example: Round 2 has 2 DC per space, Round 3 has 3 DC; keep growing evenly with a chain one between sets.

Can I skip the picot edging?

Yes. Stop after the single crochet border round for a simple, flat edge. Or replace with a crab stitch (reverse single crochet) for a rope look.

Christa Patel is the maker behind The Secret Yarnery. She teaches simple, beginner-friendly crochet that looks polished and feels fun to make. Her tutorials focus on clear steps, neat finishes, and fast wins you can finish in an evening.

Christa shares weekly videos, printable cheat sheets, and patterns for coasters, blankets, and seasonal makes. She loves natural cotton, bold color combos, and tidy borders that elevate basic stitches.

When she isn’t filming or stitching, you’ll find her organizing yarn stashes, testing new hooks, and cheering on beginner crocheters. Join her community for fresh tutorials, live chats, and friendly support as you grow your skills.