Northern Diamond Square Crochet Granny Square – Step-by-Step

Christa Patel

Creating a crochet granny square offers a classic, satisfying experience, with endless options for color, texture, and style. When I discovered the Northern Diamond Square designed by Torun Johansson, I couldn't wait to share the journey of making these bold, geometric squares with you. This detailed guide walks through every step, from choosing supplies to finishing your blanket, so beginners and experienced crocheters alike can enjoy the process and results.


Let's begin our yarn adventure by gathering the right materials and exploring what makes this project special!

Materials Needed for Northern Diamond Square Crochet Project

Before picking up my hook, I make sure to have everything ready at my workspace. Here's a checklist of the tools and materials you'll want for these granny squares:

  • Yarn: I used Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns (details below).
  • Crochet hook: 5 mm is my hook of choice for this yarn.
  • Scissors: For trimming ends. I love a curved pair for safety and precision.
  • Yarn needle: Essential for weaving in those pesky tails and sewing squares together.

Each tool plays a role: the right hook makes your stitches neat, scissors speed up finishing, and a yarn needle tidies up all loose ends. These basics keep your project running smoothly from start to finish.

For folks new to granny square crochet, I recommend checking out my step-by-step guide for making granny squares for foundational tips.

Choosing Yarn: Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns

The yarn you pick affects your granny square’s feel, look, and drape. For the Northern Diamond Square, I reached for Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns. This yarn has a light, soft touch, lovely weight, and a healthy sheen that brings each color to life. It's the type of yarn that's a pleasure to work with and gives finished projects a slightly silky feel and wonderful drape.

Yarn details for the Cotton Bamboo:

  • Content: Cotton bamboo blend
  • Weight per ball: 100g
  • Meterage per ball: 140 meters
  • Suggested needle size: 3-4 mm (I go up to 5 mm for a softer drape)
  • Category: 3 weight (DK/light worsted)

For a generous blanket (double-size or bed runner but not quite queen-size), plan on:

  • 4 colors, 2 packs of each (8 packs total)
  • Each pack has 4 balls (so 32 balls total)
  • Roughly 3200 grams of yarn

If you wish for a larger or smaller project, adjust the number of colors or balls accordingly. This yarn handles color changes gracefully and feels great in the hand.

 

Planning Your Blanket Size and Color Layout

Sizing your finished crochet blanket starts with a bit of math, but it’s simple once you lay out the squares. Here’s how I plan:

  1. Work all squares from one ball: See how many squares you can make from a single ball—usually about thirteen and a half.
  2. Finish with outer rounds: Add contrasting color borders to each square. I like doing this assembly-line style—one step across all squares at a time.
  3. Lay out the squares: Lay finished squares across a bed or flat surface to visualize the arrangement. For example, placed across my bed, I saw that I needed nine squares wide and five squares tall.
  4. Do the math: Multiply the number across (width) by the number down (height) to get your total. In my bed runner example: 9 x 5 = 45 squares.

You can adapt this technique for any desired blanket or throw size:

  • Lounge throws or baby blankets need fewer squares.
  • Measure the intended surface, arrange your squares, and you'll never run short or overdo it.

This planning helps avoid guesswork, making the project more enjoyable from the start.

Downloading and Preparing the Northern Diamond Square Pattern

Before starting, I always locate the written pattern. For the Northern Diamond Square, Torun Johansson’s instructions are a must-have reference. Search for “Northern Diamond Square by Torun Johansson” on Ravelry, or look up the designer’s name and pattern title on your favorite search engine. Having the pattern open on your tablet or printed beside you lets you quickly check any details as you crochet.

Pattern tips:

  • Visit Ravelry or simply Google "Northern Diamond Square crochet pattern Torun Johansson."
  • Review all rounds and notations in the pattern before starting.
  • You’ll find helpful visuals and stitch counts to refer back to as you go.

It's good practice to cross-reference with a Granny square crochet collection for further inspiration or unique combinations.

Starting Your Northern Diamond Square: Make a Slipknot and Chain 4

Let's set the foundation for your granny square:

  1. Make a slipknot: I wrap the yarn around two fingers and pull a loop through, but any method that feels comfortable works.
  2. Leave a 1-2 inch tail. We’ll crochet over it for a tidy finish.
  3. Slide the slipknot onto your hook and tighten.
  4. Chain 4: Count only the V’s on your chain, not the initial slipknot or the loop on your hook. You should see four distinct chain stitches.
  5. Form the ring: Insert your hook into the first chain and close with a slip stitch.

Tip: Hold the ring open with your thumb and finger to make it easier to work the next stitches.

Want a refresher on granny square starts? The Granny square tutorial for beginners delivers extra clarity.

Beginning the First Round: Making Double Crochets in the Center Ring

This round is the backbone of your Northern Diamond Square granny square.

  • Chain 3: This substitutes for two double crochets (dc) in this pattern.
  • Double crochet into the center ring: Yarn over, enter the ring, pull up a loop, yarn over, pull through two loops, yarn over, pull through remaining two. Repeat for one more double crochet.
  • Chain 2 for your first corner.
  • Three double crochets into the ring.
  • Chain 2 (your second corner).
  • Three double crochets into the ring.
  • Chain 2.
  • Three double crochets into the ring.

I always “pinch and pull,” spreading my stitches flat so the square shape starts to form. Work over the short tail from your start for a seamless backside.

Your first round breakdown:

  • Each “side” is 3 double crochets
  • Each corner is a chain 2

This method gives the square sturdy corners and clean sides.

Joining the Round with Single Crochet and Chain 3

Now it’s time to finish the first round and prepare for the next.

  1. Identify the third V stitch up from your chains.
  2. Insert your hook under both loops for stability.
  3. Single crochet to join: Insert, yarn over, pull through, yarn over, pull through both on hook.
  4. Chain 3: This lifts your work for the next round and counts as your first double crochet.

I pay close attention here since a misplaced join can throw off the entire square's symmetry. Keeping stitches snug, especially at joins, keeps your corners crisp and flat.

For visual learners, check out the How to Crochet Granny Squares tutorial playlist for more examples.

Working Along the Sides: Double Crochets and Corner Spaces

Round two builds out each side with double crochets. Here’s how I proceed:

  • Start with your chain 3 (counts as first double crochet).
  • Work another double crochet into the same corner.
  • For the side:
    • First stitch goes in the “hole” left by the chain, not the side of the chain.
    • Second stitch: catch the small strand at the front alongside the main loop at the back.
    • Third stitch: under the regular V at the top of the previous row.
  • At each corner: 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets in the same space.

Some stitches hide beneath the corners. If a stitch seems missing, gently pull your stitches back to expose it. A consistent stitch count around gives a tidy look and makes later rounds easier.

Corners form sharp, clear angles by sticking with the 2 dc, chain 2, 2 dc formula.

Completing the Round and Joining

To finish your round and set up for color changes or the next round:

  • Complete the last corner with 2 double crochets.
  • Join: chain 1, single crochet into the top of the chain 3 from the beginning of the round.
  • Double-check chain and V count for accuracy.
  • Secure by pulling yarn snug, then trim.
  • If you worked over your starting tail, you won’t need to weave it in separately.

For those who need extra visual support, the Simple granny square tutorial shows these steps in action.

Tools Tip: Using Curved Scissors for Cutting Yarn

When trimming close to your work, curved scissors make all the difference. Their rounded tips let me get close without risking a snipped stitch. I recommend a pair like the curved scissors available on Amazon if you need a trusty tool for this step. It’s a small upgrade with a big impact on your finishing confidence.

Adding the Second Color Round: Joining Yarn and Working Single Crochets

Adding a contrasting color breathes life into your granny square. Here’s my method:

  1. Join new yarn at a corner space, preferably not at the previous join so your seams are spread out.
  2. Using a slip stitch, attach the new yarn, and chain 1.
  3. Work 5 single crochets: Each is placed under both V strands on top of the previous row.
  4. Crochet over your yarn tail for a neat edge.
  5. After 5 single crochets, get ready for the overlay detail (next section).

Keep tension even. Confirm five stitches before every overlay for a symmetrical finished look.

Creating the Double Treble Crochet Overlay

Ready for something eye-catching? The double treble overlay creates that striking diamond effect on your granny square.

Here’s my process:

  • Wrap yarn three times around the hook.
  • Work into the second round: Insert the hook into the corner space and out past the first double crochet post.
  • Yarn over and pull through: Repeat yarn overs, pulling through two loops at a time until only a couple loops remain.
  • Repeat on the other side: Wrap yarn three times, insert before the last double crochet and out through the corner space.
  • Pull through all loops at once to form a V.
  • Skip the next stitch on the row above and work a regular single crochet after the V.

This tall stitch sits boldly on top, framing your granny square with a unique overlay. Pinching stitches together while pulling through keeps the “V” crisp.

Continuing the Overlay Around the Square

The pattern now falls into a simple rhythm:

  • Five single crochets per side.
  • One double treble V overlay.
  • Skip the stitch hiding under the V.
  • Anchor with a single crochet.

Some corners can trick the eye, especially where stitch clusters crowd together. I find gently pulling them apart with my fingers reveals any lurking stitches. Consistency in where you place each overlay ensures a uniform look throughout your finished project.

Common issues and fixes:

  • Skipped stitch? Double-check by counting Vs or looking for hidden stitches near joins.
  • Loose overlays? Try snugging up the yarn when wrapping for the overlay stitches.
  • Overlay too tight? Gently stretch it when working across before closing the V.

Finishing the Overlay Round and Joining

After finishing the last overlay detail:

  • Chain 2 and slip stitch in the corner space.
  • Chain 1 to anchor the joining stitch.
  • Leave about three or four inches of tail for weaving in later.

It's much easier to sew or weave a longer yarn tail, especially when assembling multiple squares.

Adding the Third Color: Joining and Double Crochet Round

Now for another ring of color and texture:

  • Join your new yarn in the next corner before the last join.
  • Chain 2 for your first double crochet (as written in the pattern).
  • Double crochet into each stitch (about eight per side after overlays).
  • Corners are always: 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets in the same corner space.

Some stitches may feel tighter or looser, especially after drop-down overlays. Adjust your tension as you work to keep the look polished.

Corner and side breakdown:

  • Corners: 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets
  • Sides: 8 double crochets per side

Working All Around: Double Crochet and Corner Stitches

Continue this pattern all around the square. I watch my tension and check stitch height to ensure each round lines up with the last. As you approach the join, use a slip stitch and chain 1 to secure the yarn. This creates a nearly invisible seam line—perfect for a seamless granny square look.

Checklist for this round:

  • Double crochets into every stitch
  • Two double crochets, chain 2, two double crochets at each corner
  • Secure join with slip stitch and chain 1

Final Round: Single Crochets and Treble Crochet Drop Down

The last round brings extra pop to your granny square.

  1. Join the final color at a new corner space using a slip stitch.
  2. Chain 1 (counts as your first single crochet).
  3. Work eight single crochets along each side.
  4. At the site of each overlay from below, create a drop-down treble crochet:
    • Wrap yarn twice, insert under the stitch below (through both posts), pull up a loop, and finish the treble.
    • Keep this stitch tighter for a clean look.
  5. Skip the stitch in the upper round the treble overlays—this keeps counts correct.
  6. Continue single crochets.
  7. At corners: single crochet, chain 2, single crochet.

If you count as you go (stitches and drops), you’ll have a square that’s both neat and consistent.

Working Around with Treble Crochet Drop Downs

Identifying where to work each treble drop-down is key. Here’s my trick:

  • Find the stitch directly above the previous overlay.
  • Trace the color change row for a visual guide.
  • Skip the stitch that aligns with the overlay—insert in the next available stitch.
  • Pinch your stitches flat to spot the first and last stitches so you don’t miss one.

I sometimes gently stretch the square to get a clear view. Consistent placement is the secret for beautiful symmetry.

Troubleshooting:

  • If the overlay seems to pull too tight, rework it with a bit more yarn in the loops.
  • If the edge starts looking wavy, check your stitch count at each turn.

Finishing the Final Round and Securing Yarn

Finishing strong means careful attention at the last join:

  • When you reach the final corner: single crochet, chain 2, single crochet.
  • Slip stitch into the corner space, chain 1, and cut the yarn.
  • Leave a long tail—enough to sew two sides together if joining later.

Letting the tail run along the seam you’ll join means fewer knots, a flatter finish, and less wasted yarn.

Managing Yarn Tails for Seamless Joining Later

An organized finish makes assembly a breeze. I always:

  • Lay my tail along the edges I’ll join—usually along one side and then down another.
  • Leave a strand long enough for two sides, measuring three times the length for extra security.
  • If assembling lots of squares, winding in direction for consistent joining helps save time.

It might look like a lot of leftover yarn at first, but you’ll thank yourself later when assembling everything together.

Staying Motivated and Working Efficiently

Large granny square projects can feel daunting, so I like to batch my work. I’ll:

  1. Make all center squares with my starting color.
  2. Add the next round to all of them.
  3. Continue step by step with each layer across the whole batch.

This approach lets me see progress visually and keeps me from giving up midway or stopping at a lap blanket when I planned a bed runner. If you like tracking milestones, tally the finished squares or rounds as you go.

Sharing Your Granny Square Masterpiece

My favorite part of any project is seeing what others create with the same tutorial. I post regularly on Instagram (@secretyarnery) and invite you to join our vibrant community. The Secret Yarnery Crochet Community group on Facebook is a perfect place to upload photos, share color choices, and get inspired by fellow crocheters' Northern Diamond Square creations.

For those seeking seamless color changes and cleaner joins, don’t miss my Easy crochet granny square patterns for quick tips and ideas.

Conclusion

Creating the Northern Diamond Square Crochet Granny Square is a rewarding journey, from the first slipknot to the final join. By breaking the process into clear, manageable steps and keeping tools close by, making your blanket or throw becomes a relaxing routine. Each unique round and color combination adds personality, and finishing with organized yarn tails means your assembly will be smooth and satisfying.

Ready for more inspiration? Take # Northern Diamond Square Crochet Granny Square Tutorial: Create Stunning Textured Squares

Granny squares are more than just a timeless crochet staple—they’re the foundation for cozy blankets, vibrant accessories, and truly unique pieces that reflect your creativity. Today, I’m sharing my step-by-step journey through the Northern Diamond Square, a pattern designed by Torun Johansson. If you’ve been hunting for a cozy, geometric twist on the classic granny square, this will become your new favorite. Grab your yarn, get comfy, and let’s work through this special project together.

Materials Needed for Northern Diamond Square Crochet Project

Getting organized before you start means smoother crocheting and a much more enjoyable process. Here are the essentials I keep by my side:

  • Yarn: I used cotton bamboo from Ice Yarns for its softness and drape (explained below).
  • 5 mm crochet hook: This size works perfectly with my chosen yarn.
  • Scissors: For snipping ends and trimming tails.
  • Yarn needle: To weave in ends and join squares later.

Every item is key. The right hook keeps your stitches comfortable, sharp scissors help you tackle tricky ends, and the yarn needle gives a polished, finished look to your work. Even if you’re an old hand at granny squares or just picking up a hook for the first time, having these basics makes the experience that much more enjoyable. For even more ideas and beginner-friendly tips, check my step-by-step guide for making granny squares.

Choosing Yarn: Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns

The yarn you choose brings your entire granny square to life. For these Northern Diamond Squares, I went with Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns. It quickly became a staple in my stash. The qualities I love most:

  • Smooth, soft texture—these squares just feel luxe.
  • Great drape means the finished blanket falls beautifully.
  • Stitches hold their shape but stay flexible.

Yarn Specs:

  • Brand/Blend: Cotton Bamboo (Ice Yarns)
  • Ball size: 100 grams / 140 meters
  • Suggested needle size: 3–4 mm (I use a 5 mm hook for extra drape)
  • Weight category: 3 (light/DK)
  • Colors used: 4 colors, 2 packs per color (8 packs total for a double-size blanket—about 3200 grams)

Each color complements the Northern Diamond pattern’s striking geometry, and the fiber content means your finished piece will be just as lovely years from now as it is today.

Planning Your Blanket Size and Color Layout

Whether you want a simple runner or a generous queen-size piece, planning saves time and makes sure you have just the right amount of everything.

  1. Determine your base numbers: Work up as many squares as possible from one ball of the center color (I got 13.5 per ball).
  2. Lay out your finished squares: Place them on your bed or another flat surface to see how many you need for your desired coverage.
  3. Calculate total needed: Multiply width by height—my runner needed 9 squares wide by 5 tall (45 squares total).
  4. Adjust as needed: Add or subtract based on the actual surface you want to cover.

Counting your squares before making more keeps you from running out of yarn (or ending up with dozens of leftovers). It also helps you visualize how colors will work together before committing to a full piece.

Downloading and Preparing the Northern Diamond Square Pattern

Before you make a stitch, get the original pattern. The Northern Diamond Square by Torun Johansson is available on Ravelry—search for the designer and the pattern title or “Northern Diamond Square.” Having the pattern open by your side makes double-checking details quick and easy, ensuring your squares turn out as intended.

Starting Your Northern Diamond Square: Make a Slipknot and Chain 4

Let’s kick off with the foundation.

  • Create a slipknot in your favorite way. I like wrapping the yarn around two fingers and pulling the loop through—there’s no wrong way, just do what feels comfortable.
  • Leave a short 1–2 inch tail to work over later.
  • Place the slipknot on your hook and shrink it to fit.
  • Chain 4: Don’t count the knot or yarn on your hook; count the four V’s in between only.
  • Insert your hook into the first chain and close the loop into a ring with a slip stitch.

I always make sure to keep the center ring open with my thumb and center finger so working around it is easy and comfortable.

Beginning the First Round: Making Double Crochets in the Center Ring

The first round sets the foundation. Here’s what I do:

  • Chain 3: This counts as two double crochets for this pattern.
  • Add 1 double crochet into the center ring.
  • Chain 2 for the first corner.
  • Work 3 double crochets into the center, then chain 2 (corner).
  • Repeat: Continue with 3 double crochets and chain 2 two more times.
  • Pinch and spread stitches out to keep the ring flat and maintain a square shape.

Work over your starting tail—this step saves so much time weaving it in later, and it keeps the back extra tidy.

First Round Breakdown:

  • Sides: 3 double crochets each
  • Corners: Chain 2 for crisp 90-degree angles

Keep counting and watch your stitch placement—it’ll pay off in a perfect square.

Joining the Round with Single Crochet and Chain 3

Getting to the join keeps your square even. Here’s how:

  1. Find the third V (or chain) up from your starting chain.
  2. Insert hook under both loops.
  3. Make a single crochet to join.
  4. Chain 3 to lift your work for the next round; this also serves as your first double crochet.

With this neat join, your corners stay sharp and your stitch counts don’t get thrown off.

If you want a refresher on classic joins and visual tips, check out my Easy crochet granny square patterns.

Working Along the Sides: Double Crochets and Corner Spaces

Round two starts to really show off the square’s structure:

  • Begin with chain 3 (counts as your first double crochet).
  • Add a double crochet to the same corner space.
  • Work three double crochets along each side:
    • First: Go right into the “hole” made by the chain.
    • Second: Catch the small strand at the front and match it to the back.
    • Third: Go under the V at the top of the previous row.
  • At each corner: 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets.

Sometimes, you’ll find a tiny, hidden stitch tucked under. Just pull your stitches apart gently—they rarely escape my attention this way.

Completing the Round and Joining

Wrangle those last stitches and finish strong:

  • Complete the final corner with two double crochets.
  • Join with a chain 1 and single crochet into the top of the starting chain 3.
  • Count your stitches if you have any doubts.
  • Cut the yarn—if you worked over your starting tail, you won’t need to weave it.

This method keeps your corners tidy and avoids lumpy joins.

Tools Tip: Using Curved Scissors for Cutting Yarn

Curved scissors have saved me from many accidental snips to my actual stitches. Their gentle curve lets me trim close to my work without fear. I highly recommend picking up a pair like the ones I found on Amazon. They offer a sense of safety and control, plus they’re perfect for all those little finishing touches.

Adding the Second Color Round: Joining Yarn and Working Single Crochets

Time for a new color and a bold border!

  1. Join new yarn in a corner space before your last join (spread out the seams).
  2. Make a slip stitch with both yarns to join secure, then drop your tail.
  3. Chain 1.
  4. Work 5 single crochets—one into each V stitch along the side.
  5. Crochet over your tail to anchor it.

I always double check that I have five single crochets per side to keep the overlay looking crisp and balanced.

Creating the Double Treble Crochet Overlay

Get ready—this is the eye-catching part!

  • Wrap your yarn three times—this forms the double treble.
  • Poke your hook into the row below (not the most recent row), right at the post of the first double crochet at a corner.
  • Pull through gently, working the stitches off two loops at a time, leaving two on the hook.
  • Wrap yarn three times again, and go into the opposite corner post on the other side.
  • Work off all loops to join.
  • Skip the next stitch on the current row, then single crochet to anchor.

This V overlay sits proudly on top, adding that signature Northern Diamond flair. I hold the loops down with my thumb while working to keep tension and prevent awkward gapping.

Continuing the Overlay Around the Square

Stick to this rhythm:

  • Work 5 single crochets,
  • Create another double treble overlay in the next corner,
  • Skip a stitch and single crochet.

Counting and rhythm become your best friends. When a stitch hides under your overlay, just count backwards or gently tug across the top to spot it. A smooth overlay stitch keeps the whole square aligned.

Tips:

  • Stitch count off? Recount and see if you missed an anchor.
  • Overlay too tight? Use a little more yarn for each wrap.

Finishing the Overlay Round and Joining

Stop and admire your work! When you finish the final overlay:

  • Chain 2,
  • Slip stitch into the corner,
  • Chain 1 to secure,
  • Leave a tail 3–4 inches for weaving or sewing in later.

If you want to stitch all squares together later, leave even longer tails (I do three times the seam’s length as a rule of thumb).

Adding the Third Color: Joining and Double Crochet Round

The third color finishes the square’s body.

  • Join in a new corner space.
  • Chain 2 (serves as your first double crochet).
  • Work 8 double crochets along each side (suddenly these are getting bigger!).
  • Corners: 2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets in each corner space.

Each round gets a bit faster as your hands settle into the rhythm. Some stitches will be larger, especially where the overlay was added—just use gentle tension for a smooth edge.

Working All Around: Double Crochet and Corner Stitches

Repeat double crochets all the way around with the established corner pattern. As you approach the starting point, use a slip stitch and chain 1 to secure the yarn. This approach keeps your blocks clean and the joins barely visible.

Final Round: Single Crochets and Treble Crochet Drop Down

This last round brings everything together:

  1. Join final color in a new corner space.
  2. Chain 1 for your first single crochet.
  3. Work 8 single crochets per side.
  4. For the overlay: Wrap yarn twice, go under both posts from the overlay below, and treble crochet.
  5. Skip the stitch under the treble, and single crochet in the next stitch.
  6. Corners are always: single crochet, chain 2, single crochet.

This drop-down overlay echoes the earlier round’s diamonds, creating gorgeous texture.

Working Around with Treble Crochet Drop Downs

Identify the overlay stitches—those big, proud strands from below—and crochet your drop-downs around the same spot. Carefully skipping the stitch behind each overlay will keep edges even.

When in doubt, look for the V from the previous overlay to guide your stitch placement. Stretching or tugging your squares gently helps expose hidden stitches.

Finishing the Final Round and Securing Yarn

Wrap up:

  • Complete your last corner (single crochet, chain 2, single crochet).
  • Slip stitch into the corner.
  • Chain 1 and cut your yarn.
  • Leave a long tail for joining—it saves adding extra yarn during assembly.

This way, your squares will be ready for smooth, strong seams.

Managing Yarn Tails for Seamless Joining Later

Don’t skimp on tails! I always:

  • Lay my tail along the sides to be joined.
  • Leave enough (about three times the seam’s length).
  • Plan for two sides per tail.

It may seem like a lot of yarn, but it pays off with faster assembly and a tidy finish.

Staying Motivated and Working Efficiently

Working in assembly-line style fuels my motivation:

  • Make all centers first,
  • Add the next round to each,
  • Repeat until all rounds are done across your squares.

Tackle your project in these logical steps and you’ll never worry about losing steam halfway.

The Secret Yarnery Community and Next Steps

The real fun begins when you share your finished project. I love seeing your color combos and twists. Tag me on Instagram (@secretyarnery) and join our friendly Facebook group—Secret Yarnery Crochet Community—to swap tips, share works in progress, and celebrate finished blankets.

Curious about color changes and expert tips for invisible joins? Visit my Easy crochet granny square patterns for more inspiration.

Left Handed?

Conclusion

The Northern Diamond Square is a joyful spin on the traditional crochet granny square—bold, colorful, and endlessly adaptable. By breaking this project into easy steps and using thoughtful planning, you’ll soon have a pile of stunning squares ready to transform into your new favorite blanket. Remember, the journey is just as rewarding as the finish. Stay hooked, share your creations, and celebrate every milestone!

Ready for more crochet inspiration and step-by-step patterns? Keep exploring, and happy crocheting!

FAQs

1. What skill level is needed for the Northern Diamond Square granny square?

This pattern is beginner-friendly, but some confidence with basic stitches is helpful. If you can make chains, double crochets, and are willing to learn an overlay stitch, you’re ready to go.

2. What yarn works best for the Northern Diamond Square?

A light (DK/3) or worsted-weight yarn with good stitch definition works great. The example uses Cotton Bamboo from Ice Yarns, but most soft, medium-weight cotton or cotton blends will give nice stitch contrast and drape.

3. Can I use other hook sizes?

Yes. A 5 mm hook creates a soft, drapey square with DK yarn. If you crochet tightly or prefer a firmer square, try a 4 mm hook. If your yarn is thicker, you may want to size up as well.

4. How can I adjust the blanket size?

Lay out your finished squares and measure the area they cover. Multiply how many squares fit across and down the length to get the total needed. Add or subtract squares for a custom fit.

5. Can I use fewer or more colors?

Absolutely. The Northern Diamond Square looks great with two, three, four, or even more colors. For a more classic look, use fewer shades. For a playful result, mix lots of colors.

6. How do I join my granny squares together?

Leave long tails after finishing each square, then use a yarn needle and your favorite joining method (like whip stitch, mattress stitch, or crochet join) to assemble them. Try laying the squares out beforehand to plan your color arrangement.

7. How do I prevent my squares from curling or warping?

Keep your tension even throughout, especially when working the overlay stitches. If squares look uneven, block them gently by dampening and pinning flat to dry.

8. Can I use acrylic yarn?

Yes, acrylic yarn works too. It’s durable, budget-friendly, and gives good stitch definition. Just note the finished blanket may feel and drape differently than a cotton blend.

Christa Patel is the creator behind Secret Yarnery, a welcoming hub for crochet lovers of all skill levels. With a passion for bold color, clear instruction, and community, Christa shares easy-to-follow tutorials, creative patterns, and time-saving tips from her home studio in Kenya.

She specializes in beginner-friendly designs and believes anyone can learn to crochet with the right guidance and support. Through her YouTube videos, blog posts, and active online groups, Christa inspires thousands to pick up their hooks and explore their creativity—one stitch at a time.

Connect with Christa:

Christa’s approachable style, genuine advice, and love for colorful projects make her a favorite resource for crocheters worldwide.

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