Easy Deluxe Crochet Santa Hat With Simple Acrylic Yarn

Easy Deluxe Crochet Santa Hat With Simple Acrylic Yarn (Step-by-Step)

Looking for a crochet pattern for a Santa hat you can actually wear all season, that still uses the yarn in your stash? That is exactly what I made with this Crochet DELUXE Santa Hat. It looks plush and fancy, but it is built with worsted weight acrylic, simple stitches, and a clever way of adding a ruffly brim and full pom pom.

In this post I walk you through the full process, from sizing and shaping the spiral hat as a round project to attaching the brim and building the pom pom with stitch markers. If you can double crochet and count, you can make this hat, then level up to complementary holiday decorating projects like a tree skirt with the Easiest Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt.

Why This Santa Hat Pattern Works So Well

I designed this Santa hat to look like a deluxe store-bought version, but with simple tools and yarn that most crocheters already have at home.

I use:

• Regular size 4 worsted weight acrylic yarn
• Only two colors, red and white
• Basic stitches and simple shaping in this beginner friendly pattern

The result is a soft, stretchy hat with a flattering spiral shape made using dcFLO for added definition, a fluffy ruffly brim, and a bouncy pom pom that holds up to real wear and gives great texture.

If you want a slightly different take on a holiday hat as well, you can also check out my easy beginner Santa hat crochet pattern for another fun option.

No Special Yarn Required

For this hat I use only size 4 worsted weight acrylic. Nothing fancy, no specialty fur, just yarn you probably already have. Check your gauge to ensure proper tension and fit.

Here is what I used for one adult small or teen size hat:

• About 100 g of red for the hat body (I had a bit left over)
• A little more than 100 g of white for the trim and pom pom

To be on the safe side:

• Two balls of white
• One ball of red

You will have some white left over, which is perfect for more pom poms, matching ornaments, or even a tree skirt border.

Hooks and Tools You Will Need

Here is what I crochet this Crochet DELUXE Santa Hat with:

• 6 mm crochet hook for the red hat body
• 8 mm crochet hook for the white trim (two strands held together)
• About 20 stitch markers for the pom pom and to help with decreases
• Scissors
• Yarn needle, I love using a sharp tip needle for weaving in ends and reinforcing seams

Note the hook size difference between the body and trim for the right drape. Stitch markers really help when spacing decreases and building the pom pom. Stitch markers make it easy to keep things neat and even. While post stitches can add interest in more complex projects, this pattern keeps it simple.

Sizing Your Santa Hat So It Actually Fits

The hat is worked from the bottom up in a spiral. The very first step is to get the starting chain right for proper sizing based on your head size.

I chain the circumference of the head, not a random number. This circumference relates to the overall diameter for accurate sizing.

For my hat:

• I chained 65
• This fits an adult small or a teen head

You can adjust your chain in an easy repeating way.

How to Measure Your Chain

Here is how I check the starting size before I go any further, much like referencing standard skirt sizes.

1. Make your starting chain.
2. Wrap the chain around your head where the hat will sit, across the top.
3. Gently pull the chain so it has a little stretch.

A good rule of thumb:

• Every 4 chain stitches is about 1 inch of circumference.

The chain should not sag. It should just reach around your head with a light stretch. Crochet fabric always loosens with wear, so tighter is better than baggy. This same measuring technique applies to calculating the center hole for a tree skirt.

Adjusting the Chain Length

If the chain is too loose, I take a few chains out. If it is too tight, I add chains.

Since 4 chains are about 1 inch, I:

• Add or remove chains in groups of 4

You can use my 65 chain example as a reference, then scale up or down for your size.

Starting the Hat Body

The body of the hat is worked in a spiral with Double Crochet (dc) stitches, the main stitch used for the body, and simple stitches for decreases along two sides.

I begin with a slip knot and a foundation chain.

Making the Slip Knot With a Useful Tail

First, I make a slip knot, but I leave a long tail, about 8 inches. That tail is important because I use it later to sew up the bottom join so it looks flat and tidy.

Steps:

1. Leave about 8 inches of tail.
2. Make a slip knot.
3. Tighten it onto the 6 mm hook.

That tail just hangs out for now, but it will save you trouble at the end.

Working the Foundation Chain

Next, I chain my chosen number for the head size. For my teen or adult small:

• I chain 65

I do not count the loop on my hook. I start counting from the first stitch, the chain below it, and I count as I go so the foundation and brim will match perfectly later.

First Row: Building the Base Shape

The first row sets up the shaping of the hat. I do not work into back bumps for this row because I use the other side of the chain later for the brim.

Here is the structure of Row 1:

1. Work into the second chain from the hook.
2. Use different stitches for the first few chains.
3. Then double crochet across the rest.

Starting With Single Crochet

I skip the first chain from the hook, then:

• 1 single crochet in the second chain from the hook
• 1 single crochet in the next chain

So I have two single crochets to start.

Then Two Half Double Crochets

Next, I switch to the half double crochet stitch:

• 1 half double crochet in the next chain
• 1 half double crochet in the next chain

That gives me two half double crochets after the two single crochets, transitioning to the double crochet stitch.

Double Crochet Across the Rest

From here on, I make 1 Double Crochet (dc) in every remaining chain; repeat across, always into the top loop of the chain. Working into the top loop sets up the dcFLO.

I keep going until I reach the very last chain and place a double crochet there too. That completes Row 1 and gives me a long strip that will soon become a tube. Unlike projects like a Tree Skirt quadrant, which require you to turn work for flat sections, there is no need to turn work here.

Joining Into a Spiral Without Twisting

Now it is time to form the strip into a circle so I can start working in a spiral.

I do not join with a Slip Stitch (sl st). I join using a Double Crochet (dc) straight into the first stitch.

Laying Out the Chain

First, I:

1. Lay the row out in a big curve on my table.
2. Make sure the whole thing lies flat.
3. Check that the same side of the stitches is facing up all the way around.

I do not want a twist, because once I start the spiral, you cannot fix a twisted foundation easily.

Finding the First Stitch and Joining

The very first stitch I made in Row 1 was a single crochet. That is where I join.

I:

• Find that first single crochet on the narrow end of the strip
• Place my hook into that stitch
• Work one double crochet into it

This is the first double crochet of the new round. It can look a bit odd the first time you do it, but it works. I ignore any little bumps or gaps under that join for now and focus on the stitches along the top edge.

Working the Spiral Rounds

Once I have that first join Double Crochet (dc) in place, the rest of the spiral is simple.

I just keep making double crochets all the way around.

• Repeat across: 1 double crochet into each stitch
• Follow along the top edge, not the join underneath

If I am unsure whether I already worked into one, I trace the post of my double crochet down to where it came from. Then I move to the next beside it.

I work across the base join area in the exact same way:

• Repeat across: 1 double crochet into each along that top edge

This continuous spiral technique works great for a round project, similar to working rounds on a larger Tree Skirt. After going all the way around once, the hat has two rounds worked, with a neat spiral starting to form.

Marking the Sides for Decreases

To shape the hat so it tapers nicely, reducing the diameter without a hard seam, I decrease on two opposite sides of the hat.

To keep those sides straight, I use stitch markers.

Placing the First Two Markers

Here is what I do:

1. Place a stitch marker into a stitch near the join area. Exact placement is not critical.
2. Fold the hat in half so that marker sits exactly on one side.
3. On the opposite side, place another stitch marker into a stitch there.

Now my hat has one marker on each side, across from each other. A tree skirt uses markers for strategic increase points, while this hat uses them for decrease points. These mark my decrease zones.

Working Up to the First Decrease

After placing the markers, I keep crocheting:

• 1 double crochet into each stitch
• Continue around until I get near the first stitch marker

The decrease will go somewhere in that marker area.

How I Crochet a Double Crochet Decrease (DC2tog)

The decrease I use is a Double Crochet (dc) two together, often written as dc2tog.

Here is how I work it step by step.

1. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next stitch.
2. Yarn over, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook).
3. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (you've completed the first Double Crochet (dc); 2 loops remain on hook).
4. Yarn over, insert the hook into the next area.
5. Yarn over, pull up a loop (4 loops on hook).
6. Yarn over, pull through 2 loops (3 loops remain on hook).
7. Yarn over, pull through all 3 loops.

I sometimes tilt the hook down slightly as I pull through the last three loops. That makes the hook glide through more smoothly.

The two stitches below now share one stitch on top, which pulls the fabric in. This decrease is useful for shaping curves on large round items like a Tree Skirt.

First Round of Decreases

When I reach the first marker area, I:

• Work a dc2tog across two stitches
• Then continue with regular double crochets; repeat across until I reach the second marker
• Work another dc2tog in that marker area

That gives me two decreases in that round, one on each side of the hat. Repeat across for the first round of decreases.

Staggering Decreases for a Smooth Shape

If I kept decreasing in exactly the same place every round, I would build a straight line of decreases and create a little ladder of holes.

To avoid that, I stagger the decreases.

How I Avoid Holes on the Sides

On the next rounds, I look at where the last decrease landed:

• I can see two stitches at the bottom but only one stitch at the top of that decrease
• That top stitch often looks a bit larger or more open

Instead of decreasing using that exact top stitch again, I:

• Work a normal double crochet into the decrease stitch
• Work a normal double crochet into the stitch right after it
• Then place my next dc2tog slightly before or slightly after that point

So each round, the decrease moves a little, either one stitch earlier or one stitch later on that side. Repeat across rounds with this easy repeating staggered method to spread the shaping and keep the edge smooth and flat while maintaining a smooth decreasing diameter. This avoids a seam line unlike the defined line created by post stitches.

Repeat across on the opposite side of the hat.

If I am new to crochet or easily lose track, I can put a different colored stitch marker into each decrease stitch as I go. Then I just remember not to work the next decrease into that marked stitch again. I give it one stitch of space on either side. The same staggering principle, using increases instead, is also key when shaping the outer circumference of a large tree skirt.

Moving Markers Up As the Hat Grows

As the hat gets taller, I move my side markers up now and then, always keeping them in roughly the center of each side.

That way, my shaping stays on the sides, not drifting too far forward or back.

Working Until the Top Is Narrow

I keep working my spiral of Double Crochet (dc) with two staggered decreases per round until the top of the hat gets quite narrow.

For my hat:

• I worked 30 full rows of the spiral body
• The 31st row was short, with about 10 stitches left at the top

At this point, the hat tapers nicely to a small diameter, similar to achieving the correct size center hole for a Tree Skirt, and there is no real benefit to keeping the spiral going smaller and smaller.

You can stop earlier if you want a shorter point or specific finished skirt sizes, or keep going longer if you want an extra droopy tip and to accommodate various skirt sizes.

Closing the Very Top of the Hat

Once the top opening is small, I switch to a quick closing trick.

Slip Stitch (sl st) Across the Top

At the end of my last double crochet round, I:

1. Insert the hook into a stitch on the opposite side of that small opening.
2. Work a Slip Stitch (sl st) to pull the two sides together.
3. Chain 1 to secure.
4. Fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to help attach the pom pom.
5. Pull the tail through and snug it down.

If you do not want a pom pom, you can weave in that tail and you are done with the top.

Cleaning Up the Bottom Join

Remember that long tail I left when I made the first slip knot and chain? Now I use it to tidy up the bottom join for a clean, invisible finish.

Pinching the Join Flat

I thread the red tail onto my yarn needle and:

1. Go into the corner where that join is.
2. Pull the two sides together so the edge looks straight and flat.

Then I work a few passes:

• Under a Stitch
• Over to the next
• Through again

I give special attention to the brim area, because the base only has one strand of yarn there from the original chain. This is especially crucial for a large flat Tree Skirt, where the join is highly visible. A few extra passes along that join help it feel as solid as the rest of the hat, with a smooth Texture.

Unlike using Buttons for closure on certain projects or a typical visible Slip Stitch (sl st) join, this sewn method creates a seamless side seam.

When I am happy with it, I fold the hat so that join sits on one side. That becomes the side seam line and keeps everything looking even from the front.

Preparing the White Brim With Tripled Yarn

The fluffy looking brim is not a separate crochet piece. It is a long chained cord made with tripled yarn and then sewn on in loops.

To get a thicker look without buying bulky yarn, I triple my worsted weight white Yarn, such as Lion Brand Yarn.

Simple Trick to Triple the Yarn

Here is how I turn one ball into three strands. This technique is similar to using two strands held together for a doubled thickness:

1. Pull out some yarn and lay it in a line. The loose tail is at one end.
2. Put a finger or thumb on the other end and bring a loop of yarn toward the first tail so it looks like an S shape.
3. Now I am holding three strands side by side: the tail, the strand going out to the loop, and the strand coming back from the loop.

I pinch all three strands together and:

• Make a slip knot with all three
• Put that loop on my 8 mm hook

From now on, I treat those three as one thick yarn.

Chaining the Brim Cord

With all three strands held together, I start chaining. For a stiffer brim in this Crochet Pattern, you might use dcFLO instead of simple chains.

I have two choices:

• Chain the whole ball and not worry about counting
• Use a counting trick

If I want to be precise, I use this guide:

• I need about 16 chains for every Stitch along the bottom of the hat

Since my hat started with 65 chains, I would make enough cord so that I have about 16 chains per stitch.

One way to keep track:

• Put a stitch marker into every 16th chain as I go
• Repeat across until I have as many marked groups as I have stitches on the hat, then I know I have enough cord

You can also just chain a very long length and adjust at the end.

When I am done chaining, I cut the yarn, leaving a little tail, and pull it through the final chain.

Attaching the Brim to the Hat

Now it is time to turn that long tripled chain into a soft, ruffly brim. This creates a continuous attachment without buttons, unlike a Tree Skirt that requires buttons for closure.

Preparing the Sewing Yarn

For attaching the brim, I use red yarn from the hat color so the stitches disappear into the red fabric.

I:

1. Cut a long length of red yarn and fold it so I have two strands together.
2. Thread both strands onto a blunt tip yarn needle.

I start by going into any stitch along the bottom edge of the hat and loop my yarn through itself so it is attached securely.

Using the Back Loops of the Chain

To keep the brim looking neat and rope like, I attach through the back loops of the white chain. Post stitches could be used instead to attach the brim for enhanced definition.

If I roll the chain slightly, I see:

• The V's on one side
• The little camel bumps or back loops on the other side

I work into those back loops.

The “M” Pattern Around the Hat

Here is the rhythm I use to get even ruffles all the way around. Repeat across the hat with these steps.

1. Put the very first back loop of the chain onto my sewing yarn.
2. Count 8 back loops along the chain, and put the 8th one on the yarn.
3. Count 8 more back loops, and put that 8th one on the yarn as well.

Now there are two loops of chain on the yarn, forming a little letter M shape when they hang.

Then I: 4. Go into the next stitch along the bottom of the hat with my needle. 5. Gently pull the white loops down to meet the hat edge, but do not yank them tight.

The brim should touch the bottom edge, but still have enough slack to stretch with the hat.

I repeat the same process. Repeat across the hat by:

• Skipping the loop I just used as my starting point
• Counting 8 more back loops
• Adding that one, and then 8 more, onto the yarn
• Going into the next stitch on the hat

Each hat stitch gets two chain loops attached this way, giving the brim that full, ruffly look.

Keeping the Stretch

The key is tension:

• If I pull too hard, the brim tightens and the hat will not stretch over my head.
• If I leave it too loose, the brim will droop.

I aim for the chain loops to sit flush against the hat with just a tiny bit of give. A popcorn stitch offers a decorative alternative to this chain ruffle border.

As the brim grows, it becomes harder to see which red stitch to go into next, especially if the brim yarn is also red in other versions. I gently push any white loops out of the way and look for the stitch that sits on the little hill of the round. That is my next spot. For another option, a popcorn stitch provides a textured border instead of the chain.

When I reach the end and secure the last set of loops into the last stitch, I:

• Cut the sewing yarn
• Pull the last stitch snug
• Weave the tail up the hat fabric, not across the brim

Weaving up the fabric preserves the stretch at the bottom.

On the chain side, where the white cord began and ended, I tie the tails from both ends together:

• Double knot
• Pull tight on each strand
• Trim or weave in as I like

Making the Tripled Pom Pom Chain

The pom pom is built on the same idea as the brim, using tripled white Yarn. This thick technique also works well for borders on a Tree Skirt.

I triple it again the same way, then:

• Make a slip knot with all three strands
• Put it on my hook

Chaining in Sets of Ten

For the pom pom, I chain in groups of 10 and mark them.

1. Chain 10.
2. Roll the chain and pop a stitch marker into the back loop of the 10th Stitch.
3. Chain 10 more, then mark the 10th back loop again.

Repeat across:

• Chain 10
• Mark the 10th back loop

Repeat across until I have used up about 20 stitch markers or chained about 200 chains. The exact number is not critical, but I want enough length to build a full pom pom.

When I am done, I cut the yarn, leaving tails long enough to knot securely later, and pull the yarn through the last chain.

Turning the Chain Into a Pom Pom

Now I thread a separate yarn through those marked back loops to pull them together into a puff.

Preparing the Center Strand

I take:

• A scrap of red Lion Brand Yarn about 3 to 4 feet long
• Fold it in half so I have two strands

I find the first marked back loop of the stitch, remove the marker, and pass both strands of red yarn through that loop so it sits roughly in the center of the red yarn. I leave long tails on both sides.

Then I move to the next marked loop:

• Remove the marker
• Thread that loop onto the same red yarn

I keep doing this with every marked 10th back loop along the white chain. While I thread, I make sure:

• All the white loops are on one side of the red yarn
• No loops get trapped inside the center by mistake

At the very end, I also thread the very last back loop, near where I started the chain, onto the red yarn and remove the last marker.

Cinching the Pom Pom With a Hockey Skate Knot

Once all the loops are on the red yarn and nothing is stuck inside, I pull the two red tails to start gathering the loops. They bunch into a donut shape.

To secure it, I use a knot like tying hockey skates or shoelaces, but with an extra wrap so it does not slip. This is far stronger than a simple Slip Stitch (sl st).

1. Tie a first knot, but wrap the strands through twice before pulling.
2. Pull very tight. The extra wrap helps the knot stay locked.
3. Then tie two or three regular knots in the same spot for extra security, similar to securing buttons.

I also tie together the white tails from the start and end of the chain:

• Double knot those three and three strands
• Pull hard
• Fasten off by trimming them to about half an inch

These short tails will be hidden where the pom pom attaches to the hat.

Attaching the Pom Pom to the Hat

With the pom pom finished, I attach it to the very tip of the hat using the red tails from the center of the pom pom.

Sewing Through the Top of the Hat

Here is how I do it:

1. Thread one red tail onto a yarn needle.
2. From the outside of the pom pom, go straight through the top of the hat and out the other side.
3. Thread the second tail and go through the opposite direction, so the two tails cross inside the hat.

I make sure the yarn slides freely before I pull tight, so it is not snagged on the pom pom loops.

Then I:

• Pull both tails firmly to snug the pom pom against the hat
• Tie several strong knots so it stays put

Hiding the Tails

To finish, turn work inside out to secure the knot and hide the red tails inside the hat.

I:

1. Stitch each tail back into the hat through the same hole where the knot sits.
2. Bring it out a little farther down inside the fabric.
3. Pull gently to create a bit of tension.
4. Fasten off by trimming the tail close, then massage the hat so the end disappears inside.

I repeat this for the other tail. Now there are no loose ends around the pom pom. Hiding ends securely is crucial for the longevity of your project, especially for large items like a tree skirt.

Final Touches and Wearing Your Crochet DELUXE Santa Hat

At this point:

• The spiral body is smooth.
• The side join at the bottom is reinforced.
• The white brim is ruffly and stretchy.
• The pom pom is full and secure.
• Sizing is perfect for adults or adjustable as needed.

I remove any remaining stitch markers, give the hat a little shake, and it is ready to wear.

This Crochet DELUXE Santa Hat is a beginner friendly pattern that works beautifully for photos, holiday events, or cozy nights at home. You can make it shorter and perky, or long and drapey, just by stopping the spiral earlier or later. Next, use these skills on a larger Tree Skirt project, such as the Farmhouse Christmas Tree Skirt.

Wrap Up

With a couple of balls of worsted acrylic and some basic tools, this crochet pattern turned simple stitches into a deluxe Santa hat that looks plush and polished, all in US Crochet Terms. You saw how to size the starting chain to your head, work the body in a smooth spiral, stagger decreases to avoid holes, attach a tripled-yarn ruffle brim, and build a full pom pom using counted chains and stitch markers. These techniques scale seamlessly to a Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt, perfect for sizing and shaping any Tree Skirt.

If you enjoy this style of crochet pattern in US Crochet Terms, keep your red and white yarn handy and apply them to the Easiest Crochet Christmas Tree Skirt or a Farmhouse Christmas Tree Skirt. Add post stitches for texture and popcorn stitch on Tree Skirt borders to elevate your project. Holiday Tree Skirt gifts never last long in the pile. Thank you for spending this time with me, and stay hooked on your next cozy Christmas make.

Left Handed?

FAQs

What level of crocheter is this hat pattern for?

This hat is great for confident beginners and up.
If you can:

• • Chain
  • Single crochet
  • Half double crochet
  • Double crochet
  • Work simple decreases (dc2tog)

then you can make this hat. The shaping looks fancy, but it is just double crochet in a spiral with spaced decreases.

What yarn did you use for this Santa hat?

I used regular size 4 worsted weight acrylic yarn.
For one adult small or teen hat, you will need about:

• • 100 g of red for the hat body
  • A little more than 100 g of white for the brim and pom pom

To be safe, get:

• • Two balls of white
  • One ball of red

You will have some white left over for extra pom poms or matching decorations.

Can I use a different weight of yarn?

Yes, you can, but you will need to adjust:

• • Hook size
  • Starting chain length
  • Number of rows

If you switch to a thinner yarn, you will likely need more chains and more rows. If you use a thicker yarn, you may need fewer. Always wrap your starting chain around your head to check the fit before you commit.

How do I make this hat in a different size?

Use the starting chain as your base size. For my adult small / teen size, I chained 65.

To change sizes:

1. 1. Wrap your chain around the head where the hat will sit.
   2. Add or remove chains until it fits with a light stretch.
   3. Adjust in groups of 4 chains (about 1 inch).

Then follow the same steps for the spiral body and decreases. You can also work more or fewer rounds to change the height.

How long does it take to make this hat?

It depends on your speed, but here is a rough guide:

• • Hat body: 2 to 3 hours
  • Brim chain and sewing: 1 to 2 hours
  • Pom pom chain and assembly: 1 hour

So you can usually finish one hat in a day or a weekend, even with breaks.

Do I have to triple the yarn for the brim and pom pom?

Tripling the yarn helps the brim look fluffy and full without buying bulky yarn. If you prefer, you can:

• • Use a bulky or super bulky yarn instead of tripling
  • Use a fur or fuzzy yarn for a different texture

Just keep an eye on stretch and weight. Very heavy yarn may pull the hat down.

How do I stop the brim from feeling too tight?

The brim should sit flat but still stretch. If it feels tight:

• • Make sure you did not pull the sewing yarn too hard
  • Leave a small amount of slack when you attach each pair of loops
  • Use a larger hook to chain the brim cord, so it has a bit more give

You can also space the loops a little looser if needed.

Can I skip the pom pom?

Yes. If you do not want a pom pom:

• • Close the top of the hat with slip stitches
  • Weave in the last tail neatly inside the hat

The hat still looks cute with a plain pointed top or a simple tassel.

Hi, I am Christa, the yarn lover behind The Secret Yarnery. I design simple, fun crochet patterns that look fancy, but use basic stitches and easy tips. If you can hold a hook and count a little, I want you to feel like you can make anything.

I live in Kenya with my family, a lot of yarn, and even more handmade blankets. When I am not filming tutorials or writing patterns, I am testing new ideas, fixing yarn tangles, or planning my next crochet project.

You can find more free patterns, step by step videos, and crochet tips right here on my website: secretyarnery.com.