Speedy Granny Ruth Crochet Hat Pattern | Free Quick Beginner Pattern

Speedy Granny Ruth Crochet Hat Tutorial

Materials Needed

Step 1: Making the Foundation Chain

The foundation chain sets the size and the look of your brim, so take a minute here and enjoy the setup.

Why Chain in Back Loops?

Working into the back loops of the starting chain gives your brim a clean row of pretty V’s, which makes the edge look neat and intentional. It avoids the stretched, messy look you sometimes get when you work into the chain’s front or full loop.

Chaining Technique for Beginners

Start with your 7 mm hook.

1. Chain in sets of 10 so you can count easily.
2. Place a stitch marker in the back loop of the 10th chain each time.
3. Continue set by set until you reach your size. For example, small adult is 56, then add 1 extra chain.

Counting help: Your markers keep you on track. Remove them once you begin the first row of stitches.

Switching to the Smaller Hook

After finishing your chain, remove the 7 mm hook and insert the 6.5 mm hook. Roll your chain slightly to find the back loops, sometimes called camel bumps, just under the V’s of the chain. The first back loop hides under the working yarn, so lift and peek if it looks like it disappeared. Lay the chain flat and make sure it isn’t twisted before you begin.

Step 2: Starting the First Row in Back Loops

Now we set up the pattern that creates the texture and speed.

Locating the First Stitches

Count to the fourth back loop from your hook, 1-2-3-4. Insert your hook there, and work one double crochet (dc). Then work one dc into the next back loop. Those two, plus your turning chain, form your first set of three.

Building Sets of Three Double Crochets

Your chain counts as the first dc of the first set. Add two more double crochets into the next two back loops for a complete set of three.

• Chain 1, skip 1 back loop.
• Dc in each of the next three back loops.

Examples:

• Dc in the second, third, and fourth back loops after the skipped stitch.
• Repeat this sequence: chain 1, skip 1, dc in the next three.

Why skip every fourth? It reduces the total stitches by about 25 percent, which speeds up the project, lightens the hat, and creates tiny spaces that look lacy but not holey.

Working the Entire Row

Continue the same pattern all the way down the chain, always working into the back loops:

• Chain 1, skip 1, then dc in the next three back loops.

At the end, you’ll likely have three chains left. Chain 1, skip 1, then dc in each of the last two back loops. Lay your work flat and make sure there are no twists and that the row of V’s sits neatly along the bottom.

It helps to pause and work this row at your own pace. A neat first row makes the rest faster and more fun.

Step 3: Transitioning to the Spiral Rounds

Here’s where the magic happens. You switch from a row to a continuous spiral, which means no joining at the end of rounds and no seam.

Joining Without a Seam

With your work laid flat and not twisted, find the top of your starting chain. Work a dc into the top of that chain. This completes your last set of three, and it starts your spiral. There is no joining, we’ll just keep going in a spiral from here.

Chain 1, and skip the center stitch of the three from the previous section.

First Spiral Pattern: Around the Spaces

Work around each chain space in sets of three:

1. Dc in the stitch before the space.
2. Drop dc under the space, working back into the stitch or chain below. Slide that back loop onto your hook, insert your hook into the space, and complete a dc. This anchors the stitch lower and creates the textured look.
3. Dc in the stitch after the space.

Keep holding the chain out of your way as you make the drop dc for smoother stitches and cleaner lines.

Repeating the Pattern in Spiral

Repeat the sequence around: chain 1, skip the center stitch, dc before the next space, drop dc under the space, dc after the space. This first spiral round is the slowest because you’re working down into the chain stitches, but once you move beyond that join area, it becomes fast and smooth.

Step 4: Continuing the Spiral for Height

This is the one-row repeat that builds the whole hat. Keep your eyes on the V’s and treat each space the same way.

Maintaining the Stitch Pattern

Round after round, work:

• Dc in the stitch before the space.
• Drop dc under the space, now into the stitch below, which is easier than into the chain.
• Dc in the stitch after the space.
• Chain 1, skip the center stitch.

Check that your work is not twisting. A small step down where the spiral moves is normal. We’ll tidy the starting area at the end.

Handling the Starting Join Area

When you reach the original join area, treat the three stitches that are split across it as one normal set. Skip the center stitch, dc in the stitch before the space, work your drop dc under the space, then dc after the space. Keep the pattern going. That small break looks a bit off early on, but it will blend in once you add a bit more height. We’ll neaten that starting gap later.

Building to Desired Height

Use this guide to decide how tall to make your hat:

• About 7 inches for kids
• About 8 inches for adults
• Add 2 to 3 inches if you want to flip the brim up

For a comfy adult beanie with a fold-up brim, I crochet to about 10 to 11 inches tall. The spiral keeps things smooth and continuous, and the fabric builds up quickly since it is all double crochets.

If you like exploring spiral-based hats, you might enjoy seeing how others approach it too. The textured look of the free spiral shell hat pattern shows how spirals can add style without too much fuss.

Step 5: Finishing the Top of the Hat

Once you reach your target height, you’ll close the spiral, cinch the top, and secure your tails. Then you can add a pom pom if you like.

Closing the Spiral

After your last set of three, chain 1. Instead of working into the next stitch, slip stitch into it to bring your height down to zero. Chain 1. Cut your yarn, leaving about a 10 inch tail for closing the top and attaching a pom pom. Pull your hook up and snug the tail down.

Cinching the Center Closed

Thread your yarn needle with the tail. Weave the needle in and out of the large spaces at the top opening, then come back to where you started. Pull firmly to cinch the top closed.

Before tightening completely, loop your yarn under a strand near the top and pass the needle through that loop to make a simple knot. Pull tight to secure. Then insert your needle down through the top center of the hat, and stitch back and forth on the inside to lock everything in place. I like to pass through a loop before pulling tight one more time for a final secure point. Trim the excess only after it feels solid.

Preparing for Pom Pom Attachment

Using the same tail before trimming, run the needle back and forth through the center so you create two short loops inside the hat. Leave those loops attached. Flip the hat over so the top faces you.

This sets you up for a removable pom pom, which is perfect for washing and switching up colors.

Step 6: Adding the Optional Pom Pom

This part is fast and fun. If your pom pom has an elastic tab, you are golden.

Attaching with a Small Hook

From the top, insert a small hook, around 3.75 mm, into the exact center of the hat. Hook the pom pom’s elastic loop and pull it through to the inside. Keep the elastic on the hook so it does not slip back while you grab a yarn tail.

Tying It On Securely

Feed one of the yarn tails through the pom pom’s elastic loop. Tie the two tails together in a neat bow on the inside of the hat. That holds the pom pom safely without a permanent knot.

This setup is both adorable and practical. You can remove the pom pom for washing or swap it for another color anytime.

Final Check

Give the top a gentle shake to make sure the pom pom sits straight and snug. If it moves too much, retie the bow a little tighter.

Step 7: Fixing the Starting Join

There is a small open spot at the very bottom where the spiral began. We want to blend that area into the brim so the start looks tidy.

Locating the Issue

Find the point at the bottom edge where you started. You will see a tiny opening that looks different from the rest of the brim.

Mimicking a Crochet Stitch

Thread your needle with the tail from the brim. Insert the needle into the place where a dc would sit if you were crocheting it, then take it back to where the yarn came from. This creates a faux stitch that fills the space, like an invisible join. Pull gently to reduce the gap.

The rest of the hat has no joins, so this quick fix brings the base in line with that clean look.

Securing and Trimming

Make an extra pass or two if needed to close the hole completely. When it looks smooth, secure the tail with a small knot hidden inside, weave a short distance, and trim.

Tips for a Perfect Speedy Granny Ruth Hat

A few small habits go a long way with this hat.

Common Beginner Mistakes to Avoid

• Twisting the chain: Lay it flat before joining your first spiral stitch.
• Rushing the back loops: Slow down on the foundation row so your V’s look neat and straight. Bold reminder: patience pays off.
• Skipping the wrong stitch: Always skip the center stitch of the set of three.
• Forgetting the chain 1 between sets: It supports the pattern and keeps your spacing right.

Customizing Your Hat

• Brim flip: If you want a fold-up brim, add 2 or 3 inches to your total height.
• Yarn choices: Acrylic is easy care and shows texture well. Choose solid colors to highlight the stitch pattern, or try gentle heathers for a soft, blended look.
• Pom pom options: Try fur, yarn pom poms, or a playful color pop.

Speed and Ease Highlights

• Only double crochets: No fancy stitches to learn.
• One-row repeat: Your hands get into a rhythm quickly.
• Skipping every fourth stitch: Reduces work and keeps the hat light.
• Small holes, not openwork: You get warmth with a bit of airflow, great for daily wear.

If you want to explore spiral variations for inspiration, the Spiral Crocheted Hat Pattern shows how a simple spiral can transform a classic beanie. For color-play ideas and two-color spiral techniques, check out Crochet a Hat for Science!, which includes a spiral tutorial link.

Left Handed?

Where to Find More Resources

If you love quick hats and want more simple projects, you’ll find a whole collection of beginner-friendly designs and helpful tutorials.

• For a curated roundup of easy hat patterns, check out my guide to 10 Free Beginner Crochet Hat Patterns. It is packed with projects you can finish in a day or two.

If you are left-handed or prefer alternate views, I also offer variations and more tutorials on my channel. Keep your tools, keep your yarn, and keep your momentum going. There is so much joy in finishing a hat in an evening and wearing it the next day. 

Conclusion and Next Steps