Easiest Crochet Heart Pillow That You Can Make Today!

Fast Crochet Heart Pillow (3D Puffy, Scrap Yarn, 30-Minute Make)

Want a super fast crochet heart pillow you can finish in about half an hour? This little 3D heart is small, puffy, and perfect for using up the tiny scraps that usually get ignored at the bottom of the yarn bin.

Make one for a bowl filler, tuck potpourri or scent beads inside for a drawer sachet, hang it from a doorknob, or turn it into a chunky keychain. It’s sweet, practical, and it works up quickly enough to make a whole batch.

If you want to jump to specific parts of the tutorial, these timestamps help:

• 0:00 Intro
• 0:40 Supplies
• 1:38 Ring setup
• 4:15 Increase round
• 5:47 Shape the heart
• 11:17 Stack hearts
• 12:01 Edging join
• 14:41 Valley join
• 17:16 Stuffing
• 19:09 Finish ends

Why this tiny heart pillow is so popular

Some crochet projects are cute, but they don’t have much use once you’re done. This heart is different. It’s small enough to make in one sitting, but it still has that satisfying plush shape that makes it feel like a “real” finished item.

Because it uses about 5 grams of yarn per heart, it’s also a simple stash buster. One heart is great, but a little bowl of them looks intentional, like seasonal decor you’d actually keep out. And since you’re making two identical heart pieces and joining them, you end up with a clean, finished look on both sides.

If you like heart motifs in general, you might also enjoy the easiest crochet hearts step-by-step tutorial for flatter hearts that work well as appliques or quick add-ons.

Supplies you’ll need (simple and scrap-friendly)

You don’t need much for this project, and most of it is probably already in your crochet bag.

• Yarn (main color): About 5 g per heart (size 4 worsted weight was used, but any yarn works if you match the hook to the label).
• Yarn (edging color): A small amount in a contrast shade (white was used).
• Crochet hook: 6 mm, or whatever your yarn label suggests (the sample uses 6 mm).
• Stuffing: Polyester fiberfill (small bits work best).
• Scissors: For trimming ends.
• Yarn needle: For sewing in tails at the end.

If you want the same style supplies shown in the video description, these are the linked options: recommended yarn option, a 6 mm crochet hook option, and sharp-tip yarn needles.

A small note that saves time later: as you crochet the first round into the ring, try to work over your yarn tail. It reduces how much you have to weave in.

Crochet the heart base (ring setup and first round)

Start with your yarn in any color you like. Make a slip knot the way you normally do, snug it onto your hook, and get ready to work into a small ring. If you prefer a magic ring, you can use that instead, but the tutorial uses a simple chain ring.

Make the ring

Chain 3, then slip stitch into the very first chain to form a ring. When you slip stitch, keep the tail following along the ring so it’s easy to crochet over it.

Now chain 2. In this project, that chain 2 does not count as a stitch, it’s just height.

Build Round 1

Work 11 double crochets into the center of the ring. Aim to crochet over the tail as you go. If the ring feels crowded, slide your stitches back around the ring to create space and keep them sitting neatly side by side.

When you finish, you should have 11 double crochets (not counting the chain 2). A simple way to count is to cover the chain with your thumb and count only the tall stitches around the circle.

Slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet to join the round (ignore the chain 2, it’s not part of your stitch count).

This stitch count matters for the shape later, so it’s worth taking the extra few seconds to confirm you really have 11.

Increase round (turn the circle into a larger base)

Now you’ll increase to create the foundation that the heart shaping is built on.

Chain 2 (again, it doesn’t count as a stitch). Into the same stitch, make 2 double crochets. Then make 2 double crochets into each stitch all the way around.

When you get back to the top, you’ll have 22 double crochets (still not counting the chain). The tutorial adds one more double crochet into the stitch at the bottom of the chain so that you end with 23 double crochets total.

Slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet to join.

If you prefer written steps you can keep beside you while crocheting, the video description includes a free written pattern version and a printable PDF pattern.

Shape the heart (stitch-by-stitch, then mirror)

This is the part where your circle stops looking like a circle and starts turning into a real heart. You’ll use a mix of half double crochet, double crochet, single crochet, and treble crochet to create the curves and the point.

In this tutorial, “triple” refers to a treble crochet (wrap the yarn twice, then pull through two loops three times).

First half of the heart

Chain 1.

Into the next stitch, work a half double crochet and a double crochet into the same stitch.

Into each of the next 3 stitches, work 2 treble crochets (so 6 trebles across those 3 stitches total).

Into the next stitch, work 2 double crochets.

Into the next stitch, work 2 half double crochets.

Into each of the next 3 stitches, work 1 single crochet each. This section forms the top curve across that side.

Now begin heading toward the bottom point:

• Into the next stitch: 1 half double crochet
• Into the next stitch: 1 double crochet and 1 treble crochet into the same stitch

At this point, one side of the heart is formed.

Mirror the stitches for the second half

Now you’ll mirror the shaping so the other side matches.

Chain 1.

Into the next stitch, work 1 treble crochet and 1 double crochet into the same stitch.

Then work 1 half double crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.

Work 1 single crochet into the next stitch.

Into the next stitch, work 2 half double crochets.

Into the next stitch, work 2 double crochets.

Into each of the next 3 stitches, work 2 treble crochets (again, 6 trebles total across 3 stitches).

In the final stitch, work 1 double crochet and 1 half double crochet into the same stitch.

Slip stitch to join in the “valley” area so that dip stays defined, then pull your yarn snug and chain 1 to secure. Cut your yarn, leaving a tail you can weave in later.

Now make a second identical heart, because the pillow is made by joining two heart shapes together.

If you’re left-handed, the video description links a left-handed crochet heart pillow tutorial.

Join the two hearts to make a puffy pillow (with a looped edging)

Once you have two hearts, the fun part happens fast. You’ll sandwich them together and join around the edges with chain loops and single crochets, leaving a small opening to stuff.

Stack the hearts neatly

Lay both hearts with the “pretty” sides facing out. That means one heart will be facing up, the other facing down, so when you sandwich them, both outside faces look good.

Keep your yarn tails tucked to the middle. You don’t have to weave them in yet.

Start at the point with your edging yarn

Find the chain-1 space at the bottom point of each heart. Insert your hook through both spaces.

Attach your edging yarn (white in the tutorial), pull through, and slip stitch with both strands to join. Drop the tail to deal with later.

Chain 3.

Work up the side with chain-3 loops

The join pattern along the edges is a repeating rhythm:

• Chain 3
• Skip a stitch
• Single crochet through both hearts in the next stitch

The tutorial suggests checking each heart’s stitches as you go so your hook goes into the matching stitch on both layers. It can be tempting to just push through both at once, but lining up the stitches keeps the hearts from twisting.

Keep your single crochets a bit tight, since they’re doing the job of joining the two layers.

Continue this chain-3, skip-1, single crochet pattern up the side until you approach the rounded top, where the shape flattens slightly.

Adjust at the top so the curves sit nicely

At the top edge, chain 3 but do not skip. Instead, go straight into the next stitch of both hearts and single crochet. Do that twice. Then return to skipping stitches again.

This small change prevents the top from pulling in and helps the curve keep its roundness.

Join the valley without ruffles

When you reach the center dip (the valley), you want it to stay crisp, not ruffled. Instead of a big loopy join right at the top, insert your hook a bit lower into the spaces on both hearts and make a slip stitch (not a single crochet). Keep the tension snug so the valley is pinned down.

Chain 3 to continue.

Now mirror the joining pattern down the other side, matching what you did on the first side (including the two “no-skip” loops near the top curve).

Leave an opening and stuff the heart

As you come down toward the bottom, stop early so you still have an opening to stuff.

Use small bits of fiberfill and stuff the two rounded tops first, then the body. You want it puffy but not overfull, since the stitches in the join are larger and you don’t want stuffing peeking out.

Close the opening and finish the join

Continue the chain-3, skip-1, single crochet join until you return to the bottom point. Work into that same chain-1 space and single crochet, then chain 3.

To finish, slip stitch into the “legs” of the very first stitch (the strands where you began). Chain 1 to secure, then cut your yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in.

Weave in ends cleanly (and fix any small gaps)

Thread your yarn needle and sew in the tails. If you notice a small gap where you slip stitched into the beginning legs, use your tail to reinforce that area.

A simple method from the tutorial:

Go up into that same spot to anchor, then back down through the center of the gap. It closes the hole and hides the join. Then weave the tail through a few stitches, pull gently, trim, and “massage” the heart so the tail slips inside and disappears.

Repeat for the remaining tail, and your heart pillow is done.

If you’re on a heart kick, these related patterns are worth bookmarking: the easy heart granny square tutorial for beginners and this heart coaster step-by-step guide.

Small tweaks and ideas for using your crochet heart pillows

This heart is meant to be quick, so it’s a good project for experimenting.

You can switch up the look just by changing yarn and hook size. A thicker yarn makes a bigger, squishier heart. A smaller hook tightens the fabric, which is helpful if you plan to stuff it firmly or use finer filling.

For uses, the tutorial mentions several practical ideas:

• Drawer sachet: Add potpourri or scent beads inside before closing.
• Doorknob hanger: Make a few and hang them like soft decor.
• Keychain: Add a key ring at the top (a larger heart can handle more handling).
• Bowl filler: Mix colors for a casual, cheerful look.

If you want to compare this style to other heart pillow patterns, here’s one example from another designer: puffy heart pillow free crochet pattern.

Conclusion

This crochet heart pillow is quick enough for an afternoon, but cute enough to make on repeat. Once you’ve made the first one, the second goes faster, and the join becomes almost automatic.

Try making a few in different colors, then decide what they should become, decor, gifts, sachets, or a little bowl of hearts that makes the room feel warmer.

FAQ: Fast Crochet Heart Pillow (3D Puffy, Scrap Yarn)

How long does it really take to make this crochet heart pillow?

If you’re comfortable with basic stitches, one finished puffy heart usually takes about 30 minutes. Your first one may take a little longer while you learn the stitch sequence and joining rhythm.

Is this pattern beginner-friendly?

Yes, if you know the basics (chain, slip stitch, single crochet, half double crochet, double crochet). The only “new” stitch for some crocheters is the treble crochet (called “triple” in the tutorial). The shaping is just a stitch-by-stitch sequence.

What size is the finished heart?

The exact size depends on your yarn and hook. With worsted weight (size 4) yarn and a 6 mm hook, you’ll get a small, palm-sized heart that works well as a bowl filler, sachet, or ornament. Thicker yarn makes a larger heart.

How much yarn do I need?

About 5 grams of yarn per heart pillow for the main color, plus a little contrast yarn for the edging/join. It’s a great project for scrap yarn.

Can I use different yarn (blanket yarn, cotton, acrylic, etc.)?

Yes. Use whatever yarn you like, and match the hook to your yarn label. For a tighter fabric (so stuffing does not show), go down a hook size.

Do I have to use a contrast edging color?

No. You can join the two hearts using the same color for a cleaner look. A contrast color just makes the chain loops stand out more.

My heart twists when I join the pieces. How do I prevent that?

Before joining, stack the hearts with pretty sides facing out (one face up, one face down). When you single crochet through both layers, check that you’re going into the matching stitch on both hearts, not just “close enough.”

How do I keep the valley (the center dip) from ruffling?

In the valley, use a snug slip stitch (not a loose single crochet) and insert your hook a little lower into the joining area. This pins the dip down and keeps it crisp.

What can I use if I don’t have fiberfill?

You can use scrap yarn bits, small fabric scraps, or even tiny pieces of old pillow stuffing. If you plan to make it a sachet, you can add potpourri or scent beads, but keep them contained so they do not work out through stitches.

Can I wash these crochet heart pillows?

Usually yes, but it depends on your yarn and stuffing. If you use machine-washable yarn and polyester fiberfill, gentle washing in a laundry bag is often fine. If you add potpourri or scent beads, spot clean instead.

About the Author: Christa Patel

Christa Patel is a crochet teacher and maker behind Secret Yarnery, where she shares fast, practical patterns that help crocheters use their stash and finish projects with confidence. She focuses on clear, step-by-step instructions, beginner-friendly stitch choices, and smart construction tips that make small projects look polished.

Christa’s tutorials are designed for real life: scrap yarn, simple tools, and results you can gift, sell, or use around your home. When she is not filming or designing, she is testing quick makes like heart pillows, coasters, and granny squares that work up fast and feel good to finish.