Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters You Can Make in One Hour!

Super Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters You Can Make in One Hour

If you're seeking quick Christmas crochet patterns that look detailed but are still beginner-friendly for crocheters at any level, these Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters are perfect crochet projects. Each coaster works up in less than an hour, uses tiny amounts of yarn, and finishes flat with a crisp edge that looks great on any Christmas table; they're a fantastic addition to your holiday collection, crochet lovers. In this post I walk through the full step-by-step process I use in my video, from magic ring to the last picot on the petals.

Why These Poinsettia Coasters Are Perfect for Beginners

I designed these Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters to look like advanced colorwork and shaping, but the stitches are simple. You only need basic skills, and I talk you through every step in plain English with easy crochet tutorials, just like I am sitting beside you.

They are ideal for holiday decor, handmade gifts (like coasters for Santa Claus cookies), or quick makes for markets. They work up fast, use scraps, and the shaping helps them lay nice and flat on your table. As affordable patterns among our Christmas crochet patterns, they offer great value.

Quick to Make Festive Yarn Crafts

Each coaster is a classic poinsettia flower with a yellow (or white) center, green base, and layered red petals. Once you get into the rhythm you can easily finish one in under an hour, so a full set for your holiday table or winter decor is very realistic in an evening or two.

Uses Simple Stitches Only

Here are the stitches I use in this project:

• Double crochet (DC)
• Single crochet (SC)
• Slip stitch (SLST)
• Chain stitches
• A tiny picot and a front-post slip stitch for the petal tip and edging

If you are comfortable with a basic granny square or dishcloth, you can make these Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters, no need for complex holiday crochet like Christmas amigurumi or Christmas Gnome designs.

Materials You’ll Need

You only need small amounts of yarn for each coaster, so this is a great stash buster. I used regular size 4 worsted weight acrylic yarn for most of the coaster and a finer yarn held double for the center.

For one coaster:

• Red: 10 g
• Green: 1 g
• Yellow: 2 g of size 2 yarn (held double) or any scrap that gives a similar thickness. You can also use regular worsted acrylic for the center if that is what you have.

If you want to try a similar yarn to mine, you can look at my go-to worsted acrylic yarn in the video description or grab a soft option like this acrylic yarn pack.

Yarn Details

Here is the breakdown by color:

• Red (petals): About 10 g of size 4 worsted weight acrylic
• Green (round behind petals): About 1 g of worsted acrylic
• Yellow (or white) center: About 2 g of size 2 yarn, held double. I held two strands of a thinner yellow together because it was in my scrap basket, but any similar thickness works.

If you prefer a more traditional poinsettia look, you can start with white in the center instead of yellow.

Red Yarn for Petals

The red section is the main focus, and it uses the most yarn, but it is still scrap friendly. If you have leftover red from a Christmas blanket or stocking, that will be plenty.

Green Yarn for Leaves/Base

You only need a tiny amount of green, around 1 g per coaster. This is perfect for those small bits of green that usually sit in a bag and never find a home.

Yellow (or White) for Center

The center uses about 2 g of yarn. I used a size 2 weight yarn held double so it matched my worsted weight, but you can also grab regular worsted yarn in yellow or white and use a single strand.

Tools Required

You do not need many tools for this project:

• 5 mm crochet hook
• 12 mm crochet hook (optional, I had it out for other projects)
• Yarn needle for sewing in ends
• Scissors

If you want a crochet hook similar to the one I use in my tutorials, you can check out my favorite crochet hooks here: soft-handled hook set. For sewing, sharp-tipped needles like these yarn needles make weaving in ends much easier.

Crochet Hooks

I worked the coaster with a 5 mm crochet hook. I also had a 12 mm hook handy, which is nice if you prefer a looser starting ring or just want to see your stitches clearly while you practice.

Other Essentials

Keep these nearby:

• Scissors to cut your yarn
• Yarn needle to sew in your ends neatly on the back

Step-by-Step Tutorial Overview

In the video I walk you through each round of the Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters at a slow, beginner pace. There are timestamps, so you can jump back to any section you need.

If you like having instructions written out, my free pattern downloads are always available on Secret Yarnery, and they are written in plain English with no confusing abbreviations.

Making the Yellow Center: Magic Ring Start

I start the poinsettia with a magic ring so the middle closes up nice and snug with no hole. If you have never done a magic ring before, this is a good simple project to practice on.

Creating the Magic Ring

Here is how I form the ring:

1. Lay the yellow yarn across the palm of your non-dominant hand and pinch it against your ring finger with your thumb.
2. Wrap it around two fingers to make an X on the front of your hand.
3. Bring it around a third finger and slide it under your thumb so it stays put.
4. Turn your hand over so you see two strands across your fingers, a short tail and the long working strand.
5. With the hook tip facing down, slide it under the short strand and over the long strand.
6. Hook the long strand, pull it under the short strand, then rotate the hook toward you and up onto the fat part of the hook.
7. Let your thumb relax a bit so it can slide, then turn the hook away from you under the long strand again.
8. Pinch it under the hook and pull the long strand through the loop on your hook.

Let go of your hand. You now have a magic ring ready with an adjustable loop.

First Double Crochets in the Ring

Now build the center:

• Chain 2 to start. In this pattern that chain 2 does not count as a stitch.
• Work 12 double crochets into the ring, going over the tail each time so it gets trapped in your stitches.

If your tail gets short, give it a gentle pull so it does not pop out of the ring, and keep working over it.

Counting Your 12 DC

When you think you are done:

• Push the starting chain out of the way with your thumb.
• Count only the tops of the real double crochets, from 1 to 12.

Once you have 12, pull the tail to tighten the ring so the center closes.

Joining the Center Round

Join the round neatly:

• Ignore the chain 2.
• Slip stitch into the top of the first real double crochet.
• Chain 2 to start the next round, again not counting this chain as a stitch.

Increasing the Center for Flower Shape

To give the flower a bit of fullness, the second yellow round alternates between 2 and 3 double crochets in each stitch.

Pattern for Increases

Work into each stitch around:

• In the same stitch where you joined and chained 2, work 2 double crochets.
• In the next stitch, work 3 double crochets.
• Next stitch, 2 double crochets.
• Next stitch, 3 double crochets.

Keep repeating 2 DC in one stitch, 3 DC in the next all the way around.

In a perfect world, you will land with 3 double crochets in the last stitch. If you are off by one, do not worry. It is a flower, so it will still look lovely.

Joining the Increase Round

When you reach the end:

• Slip stitch into the top of the first real double crochet of the round.
• Chain 1 to secure, then cut the yellow yarn, leaving a tail long enough to sew in later.
• Pull the tail through and snug it down.

That finishes the yellow center of the poinsettia.

Adding the Green Round: Base Layer

Next comes a simple green round that smooths the shape and prepares spaces for the petals.

Joining Green Yarn

To join the green:

• Insert your hook into any stitch around the yellow center.
• Place a loop of green yarn on your hook and pull it through the stitch.
• Slip stitch with both strands to secure, then drop the short tail.
• Chain 1. In this round, that chain 1 counts as your first single crochet.

You can hold the tail along the top edge and crochet over it if you like.

Single Crochets All Around

Work 1 single crochet into every stitch around, including:

• The same stitch where you joined and chained 1
• Every stitch right up to where you started

If your tails get in the way, just nudge them aside with your hook.

Finishing the Green Base

When you reach the start again:

• Make your last single crochet in the last open stitch.
• Slip stitch into the top of the starting chain 1, catching both loops on your hook.
• Chain 3 to begin setting up the spaces round.

Green Round: Creating Spaces for Petals

The next green round creates little windows between stitches where the red petals will sit. It is a repeat of chaining and skipping stitches.

Skipping and Chaining Pattern

After you chain 3:

• Skip the next stitch.
• Single crochet into the second stitch.
• Chain 2, skip 2 stitches, single crochet into the third.
• Chain 2, skip 2, single crochet into the third again.

Now you mix it up slightly.

The Repeat Sequence

Around the coaster you follow this rhythm:

• Chain 2, skip 2, single crochet
• Chain 2, skip 2, single crochet
• Chain 2, skip 1, single crochet into the next stitch

That shorter skip keeps the spacing around the coaster even so the petals sit nicely.

Repeat that set of three moves all the way around as you work from space to space.

Handling the End

Near the end you will likely have four stitches left and it will not match the repeat perfectly. That is completely fine.

You can:

• Chain 2, skip 1 stitch, single crochet into the second, or
• Chain 2, skip 2 stitches, single crochet into the third.

On the very last move, chain 2 and skip the final stitch completely.

Joining the Spaces Round

To close this round:

• Slip stitch into the first chain of your starting chain 3, again catching two loops.
• Chain 1 to secure the green yarn.
• Cut the green, leave a tail for weaving in, and pull the yarn through.

At this point your coaster will probably look a bit cupped or dished. That is exactly how mine looks and it flattens out once the petals are in place.

Starting the Red Petals

Now for the fun part, the bright red poinsettia petals.

Joining Red Yarn

To start:

• Pick any single crochet stitch from the green round.
• Insert your hook into that stitch.
• Place a loop of red yarn on your hook and pull it through.
• Slip stitch to join with both strands, then drop the tail along the edge.

No need to chain here. We go straight into the next space.

First Petal in a Space

Into the next chain-2 space:

• Work 2 double crochets,
• Chain 1,
• Work 2 more double crochets into the same space.

This 2 DC, chain 1, 2 DC makes a little V-shaped petal base.

Then:

• Slip stitch into the next single crochet stitch to pin that petal down.

Repeat for All Petals

Repeat the same thing around:

• In every chain-2 space: 2 DC, chain 1, 2 DC
• Into each single crochet between spaces: slip stitch to anchor

Work all the way around the coaster until every space has a red petal cluster.

Closing the Petal Round

When you get back to the first petal, slip stitch into the legs of the very first stitch you made with the red. That closes the round smoothly and sets you up for the final shaping.

Then chain 3 to start building the next layer of each petal.

Building Up the Petals: Next Round

This last red round gives the petals their pointy tips and fills in the outer circle so the coaster looks smooth and round.

Starting the Build-Up

After that chain 3:

• Look for the chain-1 space in the center of the first red petal.
• Into that space, work:
  • 2 double crochets
  • Chain 3
  • Picot
  • 2 double crochets

Picot for a Pointy Tip

For the picot:

• After you chain 3, insert your hook into the first of those 3 chains, making sure you catch both loops.
• Slip stitch to close the little loop.

That tiny bump becomes the point at the top of the poinsettia petal.

You can also picot into the top of the stitch instead of the chain. I often slip stitch into the two front loops of the top stitch for pointier tips.

Front-Post Slip Stitch

After finishing the petal tip in the chain space:

• Chain 3 again to travel down.
• Find the tall stitch between petals from the previous red round.
• Insert your hook from front to back and out the front again around that post.
• Slip stitch around the post.

This is a front-post slip stitch. It wraps the red neatly around that green area and gives you a smooth circular edge.

Chain 3 once more to climb up to the next petal center.

Pattern per Petal

For each petal around the coaster:

1. Into the petal’s center chain space:
   • 2 DC, chain 3, picot, 2 DC
2. Chain 3
3. Front-post slip stitch around the next stitch between petals
4. Chain 3 to move to the next petal

Repeat that all the way around.

Making Petals Pointier

If you want sharper points, use this little tweak:

• When you picot, slip stitch into the two front loops of the top stitch instead of into the chain.

That pulls the tip up a bit and gives the petals extra definition.

Finishing the Petal Edges

Keep repeating the petal pattern until you arrive back where you started the round.

Working Around All Petals

As you go:

• You can fold the coaster in half to keep the bulk out of the way while you front-post slip stitch.
• Try to keep an even tension on those chain-3 sections. If they are too tight, the coaster might cup; too loose and the edge might ruffle.

Last Front-Post Slip Stitch

When you reach the first petal again:

• Work your final front-post slip stitch around the same stitch where you started that round.
• This closes the circle so there is no gap.

Securing the Final Round

To finish:

• Chain 1 to lock the last stitch.
• Cut the red yarn, leaving a tail to weave in.
• Pull the tail through and tug gently to snug the knot into place.

All of the crochet is now done.

Sewing in Ends and Blocking

Turn the coaster to the back and use your yarn needle to weave in all the tails.

• Run each tail back and forth through several stitches in the same color area.
• Change direction once or twice so it does not slip out.

I wove in most of my tails while working by crocheting over them, then just secured the very tips with a few passes of the needle. If you want more guidance on finishing techniques, the beginner washcloth tutorial at Easy Crochet Washcloth Pattern for Beginners has a nice slow section on weaving in ends cleanly.

These coasters usually lay flat straight off the hook. If yours is a little wavy, you can lightly steam it or just stack them under a book overnight.

Tips for Perfect Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters

Here are a few small things that make a big difference in festive yarn crafts.

• Pull the magic ring tail firmly so the center really closes.
• Do not stress if your stitch counts are slightly off on the yellow increase round. It is a flower, not a ruler.
• Keep your chain 2 spaces in the green round relaxed so the red petals fit in.
• If your coaster cups after the green round, leave it. The red petals will open it up.
• Use scraps for the center and green; save your favorite yarn for the red that shows the most.

These tips help create finished coasters full of holiday cheer.

Yarn Substitution Ideas

Any smooth worsted weight acrylic works well for Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters. Cotton will also work if you prefer a more heat resistant coaster for winter decor, but it may feel a little stiffer.

For a more classic poinsettia style, use white instead of yellow in the middle. You could also swap the red for cream or deep burgundy for a different holiday decor look.

Perfect as handmade gifts, these coasters add seasonal sparkle to any table.

## More Christmas Crochet to Match Your Coasters

If you are in holiday crochet mode, these Christmas crochet patterns from our holiday collection pair beautifully with poinsettia coasters on a holiday table or mantel to create complete holiday decor:

• A stocking to hang nearby, like the Beginner-friendly Christmas stocking pattern (perfect for a Christmas Gnome design) at Easy Crochet Christmas Stocking Pattern.
• A garland to drape across a shelf, such as the evergreen garland with berries crochet guide at Crochet Evergreen Garland with Berries.
• A fun ornament like the crochet Christmas pickle tutorial (or try festive Gnomes for Christmas amigurumi) at How to Crochet a Christmas Pickle.

If you want more ideas for quick home pieces and affordable patterns, the roundup of crochet home decor patterns at 10 Best Crochet Home Decor Patterns includes coasters, placemats, garlands, and more that work up fast and use small amounts of yarn. Explore Christmas Crochet Pattern Bundle Deals for potential savings, like the 7-in-1 holiday character bundle with Santa Claus crochet dolls, Snowman amigurumi patterns, Santa Claus amigurumi patterns, and other amigurumi patterns to help craft cherished holiday memories. Unique ideas like the crochet mushroom purse or Christmas Tree Crochet Pattern also make great additions.

For extra poinsettia inspiration, you can also look at this lovely free pattern for crochet poinsettia coasters from another designer at Craft Passion’s poinsettia coaster pattern, or try a different style of Christmas coaster like the crochet Christmas tree coasters at Crochet 365 Knit Too.

Where to Find More Help and Resources

If you love having everything in one place while you crochet:

• You can subscribe to my channel for easy crochet tutorials with this link: subscribe to The Secret Yarnery on YouTube.
• If you like having stitch names and hook sizes handy, grab my free pattern downloads here: free crochet cheat sheet download.
• Left-handed? I also have a full playlist of left-handed crochet tutorials, including Christmas amigurumi like Santa Claus.

For more small beginner projects similar in difficulty to these coasters, you can browse starter crochet projects and beginner-friendly patterns in my post Easy Crochet Projects for Beginners. You'll find amigurumi patterns, crochet mushroom purse, and crochet fairy patterns among the ideas.

Conclusion

Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coasters are one of my favorite Christmas crochet patterns because they tick all the boxes for crochet lovers and crocheters at any level: quick, pretty, scrap-friendly, and beginner-kind. These festive yarn crafts offer holiday crochet projects where you practice handy skills like the magic ring, simple increases, picots, and front-post slip stitches (easier than Christmas amigurumi), then end up with something you can use right away on your table to spread holiday cheer.

If you make a holiday collection, try mixing centers in yellow and white, or play with different reds for a whole poinsettia garden alongside popular themes like Santa Claus or Christmas Gnome. I would love to know how many holiday collections you plan to make, and whether you are gifting them or keeping them for your own holiday decor to create cherished holiday memories.

Thanks for crocheting with me today, and as always, stay hooked.

Left Handed?

FAQs

How long does it take to crochet one Poinsettia Coaster?

Most crocheters can finish one Easy Crochet Poinsettia Coaster in about 45–60 minutes.
Once you make the first one and get used to the rounds, the rest usually work up even faster.

What skill level do I need for this pattern?

This is a confident beginner pattern.
If you can:

• Work a magic ring (or are willing to learn)
• Do single crochet, double crochet, and slip stitch
• Count your stitches around a circle

then you can make these poinsettia coasters. I walk through each step slowly in the video.

Can I make these coasters without a magic ring?

Yes. If you are not comfortable with a magic ring, you can:

1. Chain 4,
2. Slip stitch to the first chain to form a ring,
3. Work the 12 double crochets into that ring instead.

You may have a slightly larger hole in the middle, but it will still look pretty.

What yarn is best for Crochet Poinsettia Coasters?

Any size 4 worsted weight acrylic works well. It is soft, easy to wash, and holds the shape of the petals.
You can also use cotton yarn if you want more heat resistance, for example under hot mugs, but it will feel a bit firmer.

Can I use different colors instead of red, green, and yellow?

Absolutely. Here are a few fun ideas:

• White petals with a gold center for a snowy look
• Deep burgundy petals with dark green leaves for a rich, classic style
• Cream petals with a soft gray center for a neutral, modern table

You can also switch the center to white instead of yellow for a more traditional poinsettia look.

How many poinsettia coasters do I need for a set?

Most people like sets of:

• 4 coasters for a small coffee table or gift
• 6 coasters for a breakfast nook
• 8 or more for a full holiday dining table

Since each one uses very little yarn, it is easy to make a larger set if you have time.

Will these coasters lie flat, or will they ruffle?

They may look a bit cupped after the green rounds, which is normal.
Once you add the red petals and final round, they usually relax and lie flat.

If they are still a little wavy, you can:

• Lightly steam block them, or
• Stack them under a heavy book overnight.

Hi, I am Christa Patel, the yarn lover behind Secret Yarnery. I teach simple, clear crochet projects that help you relax, use your stash, and feel proud of what you make.

I focus on beginner‑friendly patterns with step‑by‑step video tutorials and easy written instructions in plain English. If you can hold a hook, I believe you can crochet something beautiful.

On my blog and YouTube channel, you will find:

• Quick gifts, coasters, and home decor
• Easy blankets and wearables
• Tips for choosing yarn, hooks, and tools

When I am not filming tutorials, I am testing new patterns, answering questions from crocheters around the world, and thinking up more ways to make crochet fun and stress‑free.

You can find more of my patterns and tutorials here:

• Blog: Secret Yarnery
• YouTube: Secret Yarnery Channel

Thanks for crocheting with me, and stay hooked!