C2C Crochet Masterclass 2025: Corner to Corner for Everyone!

C2C Crochet Masterclass 2025: Corner to Corner for Everyone!

Corner to corner crochet (C2C) opens up endless creative options for everyone. Whether you’re a beginner or looking to upgrade your skills, this masterclass distills everything you need to know about C2C crochet. I’ll walk through not just the basics, but also the practical tricks for making perfect triangles, squares, rectangles, color changes, and eye-catching borders. I’ll also show you how to plan your stripes and calculate yarn amounts. English isn’t your first language? The video linked below lets you pick your language, and you’ll find versions for both left- and right-handed crocheters. This masterclass builds on video lessons designed to make C2C approachable, fun, and flexible. Ready to get squared away in C2C? Let’s start!

Introduction to C2C Crochet

Corner to corner crochet is a dynamic crochet method where you work from one edge or "corner" of your piece to the opposite one, creating squares, rectangles, or even intricate patterns like graphs. The real beauty of C2C is that, once you get the hang of the basic building blocks, you can shape any project by increasing or decreasing your row count.

This guide follows my detailed C2C Masterclass tutorial, where every technique is clearly shown so you can gain confidence with each row. With this technique, you’ll unlock a new world of crochet: making afghans, scarves, shawls, pillows, and other creative projects in geometric shapes.

If you’re just getting started or need clarity in English, you can select your preferred language in the video settings. For those who crochet with their right or left hand, find the perfect tutorial for you—right-handed tutorial or left-handed tutorial.

With approachable instructions and a bit of patience, C2C is perfect for beginners and versatile enough for more advanced projects.

Tools and Materials Needed for C2C Crochet

To get started, you only need a handful of basic crochet supplies. Here’s what I use and what I recommend for this C2C method:

• Worsted weight acrylic yarn or any nice color scraps you already have
• 6 mm crochet hook for a balanced, medium-density fabric (experiment with larger or smaller hooks for different textures)
• Two stitch markers (preferably one green for "grow" and one red or orange for "stop")
• Yarn needle for weaving in ends
• Scissors for cutting your yarn
• Optional: contrasting yarn scraps as makeshift stitch markers if you don’t have pins

You can swap in materials you have on hand, and remember, the key is comfort and visibility—pick a size and texture you enjoy working with.

Setting Up Your Workspace and Video Settings

Before you dive in, take a minute to set yourself up for a smooth learning experience. Here’s what I recommend:

1. Choose your preferred dialect: Click on the gear icon in the video and select your language or subtitles.
2. Pick the right tutorial: Left-handed users can follow the dedicated version, and right-handed users can follow the main one.
3. Navigate with timestamps: The video description provides timestamps to jump directly to different skills or troubleshooting steps.
4. Stay connected: Subscribe to my channel for more free crochet tutorials and ongoing inspiration—subscribe for new tutorials.

A little preparation helps you follow along at your own pace. Don’t forget, pausing or replaying key steps is part of learning!

Basics: Starting Your First C2C Triangle

Every C2C project begins with a triangle. It’s a simple shape but forms the core for squares and rectangles later. Here’s how to do it:

1. Make a slip knot and leave a tail long enough for weaving in later.
2. Chain six: Chain 1, 2, 3, pinch at the third chain, then 4, 5, and 6.
3. Double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook (where you pinched earlier). You’ll have two top loops on your hook.
4. Make one double crochet in each of the next two chains. Aim for the bottom loop for a neater look.
5. That’s your first block: it consists of a chain 3 and three double crochets.
6. Place your stitch marker into the chain 3 space at the end—this single block is the base for your “staircase.”

This first step may seem minor, but it sets up the shape and structure for everything that follows. Take a moment to check your tension and stitches before building the next row.

Building Row Two: Increasing Your C2C Triangle

Row two is where your triangle begins to grow and the repeating rhythm of C2C starts. This step is the same for each new row in the increase section:

1. Chain six at the start of your row.
2. Double crochet in the fourth chain from the hook and again in each of the next two chains.
3. Hold your new block and flip up your work, positioning it on top of the previous row (with the stitch marker).
4. Slip stitch into the space with the marker to join your new block to the “staircase.”
5. Chain three and make three double crochets into that same space to complete the new block.
6. Add your stitch marker to the chain space on the last block.

Stay patient if this step feels awkward! C2C’s logic becomes much clearer by your sixth row. With every repeat of chain three and three double crochets, your triangle gets easier to manage.

Progressing to Rows Three to Six: Understanding the Staircase Method

As you advance, your triangle grows by one more block each row, and the staircase effect really shows:

1. Start each new row with a chain six and three double crochets.
2. Lay your piece flat, flip the new block, slip stitch into the marked space to join.
3. Continue slip stitching into each top chain space of the previous blocks.
4. For every joined block, chain three for height and work three double crochets into the space.
5. Repeat until you’ve joined all existing stairs, adding a new block at the end of each row.
6. Mark the chain space at the end of every row with a stitch marker.

Keeping the blocks connected in staircase fashion helps your edges stay straight and your triangle build evenly.

Tip: To keep edges neat, always remember to build a new block at the end—don’t skip this or your triangle will start to slant.

Mastering the Increase Phase: How Your Triangle Grows

With each new row, your triangle adds another block—so row three will have three blocks, row four will have four, and so on. The increase side forms the longest side of your triangle, often called the hypotenuse, and the number of rows you work defines the smallest side of your final shape.

Common uses for this phase are dishcloths, scarf tips, or the foundation for blankets. It’s helpful to count blocks and rows as you go, making sure your triangle matches your intended size.

If you want deeper guidance on shaping triangles, check my Making a Crochet Triangle tutorial.

Transitioning from Triangle to Square: Beginning the Decrease Phase

Once your triangle reaches your desired side length, you’ll shift from increasing to decreasing. Here’s what you do:

• At the start of a decrease row, don’t chain six. Instead, simply turn your work.
• Slip stitch into each of the top three stitches (from previous double crochets) and one slip stitch into the chain space.
• If you’re changing colors, finish the last slip stitch into the chain space using your new yarn. Hold the ends behind your work.
• Now, chain three to get the block’s height and continue with three double crochets into the next chain space as usual.
• After that, follow the typical routine—slip stitch to connect, chain three for a new block—until you reach the end.

Make sure to pause and repeat these steps until they become second nature. Keep your edges straight by counting stitches and blocks.

Working Down the Staircase: Decreasing to Form a Square

Through the decrease, your project gradually becomes a square. Here’s the approach:

• After joining the last block of a row, turn your work.
• Slip stitch into the top of the next three stitches (from previous blocks) and once into the next chain space.
• Chain three for the next block, and continue working up the staircase as before.
• Each decrease row has one fewer block than the last, so progress speeds up.
• When only one block remains, chain one, cut your yarn, and weave in the end for a clean finish.

Common Pitfalls and Solutions:

• Too-tight slip stitches? Loosen them slightly by moving the loop up your hook.
• Crooked edges? Double-check you’re slip stitching into every stitch and chain space.
• Forget to decrease? Count your blocks each row to keep on track.

Sticking to this rhythm will keep your square's corners and edges sharp.

Completing Your Square and Securing Yarn Ends

As you finish your square:

• Build the last block as usual and slip stitch to join to the final stair.
• Chain one to lock everything in place before cutting the yarn.
• Leave a tail long enough to sew in securely with your needle.
• Pull the yarn through the last loop and snug it down.

These finishing steps are just as important as crocheting the blocks—secure tails give your piece a polished, long-lasting look.

Creating a Rectangle with C2C: Combining Increase and Decrease

C2C rectangles combine both increase and decrease methods at the same time. The smallest side (width) is set by your starting triangle. The longer side grows as you alternate increasing on one end and decreasing on the other—think of it as one side growing and the other “stopping.”

To manage this:

• Mark one edge with a "grow" stitch marker (green) and the other with a "stop" marker (red or orange).
• On the grow edge, continue adding blocks as you would for increases.
• On the stop edge, begin every row with slip stitches, as you did during decreases.
• This shape is ideal for blankets where you want a specific width or for scarves with precise dimensions.
• If you’d like a written guide for C2C rectangles or other shapes, check out my All Crochet Patterns at Secret Yarnery.

Here’s a two-column breakdown:

Detailed Steps for Building a Rectangle: Increase Side

• Always start the row on the increase side with a chain six.
• Build three double crochets as before, flip up your work, and slip stitch the block into the staircase.
• Continue joining blocks, working your way up the staircase.
• Keep your grow marker visible on the increase edge, especially for larger projects—it keeps you on track.
• Maintain the block formula every time: chain three, three double crochets.

Consistency here guarantees your rectangle’s short side stays neat as the long edge extends.

Detailed Steps for Building a Rectangle: Decrease Side

• When you reach the “stop” marker, turn your work at the end of each row.
• Slip stitch into the next three stitches and once into the chain space before building your next block.
• Make sure to move your loop up to the “fat part” of your hook so it isn’t too tight—this makes sewing in ends later much easier!
• After the slip stitches, chain three and continue building and joining blocks as usual.

Marking the decrease edge and using this slip stitch-on-row-end method keeps your rectangle true and crisp.

Rectangle Math: Planning Your Dimensions

A little math helps you get the rectangle size you want:

• Count how many blocks are on your narrowest side (say, 10).
• Divide this by three (10 / 3 = about 3.33—round up to 4).
• The answer is your number of rows for extending the rectangle’s length in this C2C section.

Here’s a quick calculation checklist:

• Count the narrow side blocks.
• Divide by three.
• Round up.
• Work that many extension rows before decreasing both sides.

Need more help with C2C rectangle planning? My Guide to Corner to Corner Crochet dives deeper into shape balancing.

Finishing Rectangle: Decreasing Both Sides to Shape Final Square

Once your rectangle is the right size, finish by decreasing on both sides, just like you did for the square. Slip stitch at the start and end of each row, keeping your edges tidy. You can add a color change here if you want to highlight the transition. Continue reducing the blocks on every row until you’re left with a single block.

Decrease steps:

• Turn your work at row ends.
• Slip stitch into the top of three stitches and the next chain space.
• Chain three before building your next block.
• Make each block smaller by one per row, working to a finish.

Staying consistent with slip stitches and block counts gives you a symmetrical, finished rectangle.

Adding Edging to Your C2C Project

A neat border adds a professional finish and helps your project hold its shape. Here’s a quick way to add an attractive edge:

1. Join new yarn (or continue with your working yarn) using a slip stitch—with both strands if you’re attaching a new color.
2. Begin with a chain two or three, depending on your preferred height.
3. Work one single crochet, chain two into each gap between blocks along the edge.
4. Corners: In each corner, place two single crochets with a chain two in between (all in the same stitch) to form a crisp corner.
5. Continue this pattern around the entire border.

If your edge feels a bit tight and curls, that’s normal—it helps the finished piece stay firm. Blocking will relax it nicely.

Want to take your borders further? Check out my Beautiful Border Crochet for C2C Shawl tutorial for more creative edging ideas.

Common edge-border options to try later include:

• Shells and picots
• Simple single crochet
• Extended lace

Changing Colors in C2C: On Increase Rows

Smooth stripes and color changes make C2C crochet much more exciting. Changing on an increase row is easy:

• On your last double crochet of a block, stop when two loops remain.
• Bring the new color of yarn through, finishing the double crochet with it.
• Hold both yarn tails at the back, then continue with your chain six and build your next block as usual.

This keeps color transitions crisp and reduces bulk.

Changing Colors in C2C: On Decrease Rows

For a clean look on decrease rows:

• Slip stitch back along each stitch using the old color until the chain space.
• Complete the last slip stitch with the new yarn.
• Chain three in the new color, keeping both tails at the back.
• Continue building blocks.

Staying relaxed with your slip stitches helps keep tension even and transitions smoother.

Changing Colors in C2C: In the Middle of a Row

To switch colors mid-row for intricate designs:

• Start the final double crochet of your block, leaving the last two loops on the hook.
• Bring the new yarn over and finish the stitch.
• Begin your next block in the new color.
• Optional: If you want to carry your old yarn for future stripes, lay it along the edge and crochet over it as you progress.

Keep your yarn tails neat and not too tight for the cleanest edge when carrying yarn along.

Planning and Creating Stripes in C2C Crochet

With C2C’s flexibility, designing stripes is simple and impactful:

• Use graph paper and represent each stripe as a block or row. Planning out in advance helps keep your ends and colors organized.
• Alternate colors every two, four, or six rows—just keep all color changes to one side for less tangling.
• If you want mirrored stripes for a balanced look, plan accordingly so both sides of your blanket or pillow have the same color order.
• Carry your yarn up the sides if you’re adding a border later, so you don’t have to cut and sew in tails every time.

A little bit of planning makes a big difference in your finished look.

Experimenting with Hook Sizes and Yarn Math

The size of your hook matters more than you might think! Try a 4 mm hook for a dense, wafer-like texture, a 6 mm for a classic feel, or go up to 8 mm for something soft and drapey. Using a smaller hook means fewer holes and more structure, while a larger hook makes projects lighter and more flexible.

As for yarn math, here’s a helpful tip: use about half your yarn for increasing, and just over half for the decrease phase (since decrease slip stitches use a tiny bit more yarn). If you’re making a blanket, try crocheting a sample triangle with 100 g of yarn. Measure its area and scale up: for example, if one triangle uses 100 g for 2 square feet, a 6 by 4 foot blanket needs about 12 balls and a little extra for the decrease and any border you plan to add.

Here's a way to estimate:

• Crochet your triangle until 100 grams of yarn is used. Measure its size.
• Calculate your desired finished area. Example: a 6-foot by 4-foot blanket covers 24 square feet.
• If 100 grams gets you 2 square feet, you'll need about 12 balls (plus 1-2 extra for finishing and edging).

Planning your yarn this way helps you avoid running short and lets you design confidently.

C2C Variations: Mix Up Your Project

Once you’re comfortable with classic corner to corner, there are easy tweaks to fit different looks and needs:

• Chain 6, 3 double crochets per block: This is the classic C2C.
• Chain 5, 3 double crochets per block: Creates a denser fabric with smaller holes but the same size.
• Chain 5, 3 half double crochets per block: Results in a smaller, denser, and stiffer square, perfect for sharp shapes or color work.
• These subtle changes let you personalize the feel, look, and drape of any C2C project.

If you’re ready for more inspiration, check out these fun crochet projects for 2025 or browse all crochet patterns at Secret Yarnery for more advanced options.

Conclusion

Corner to corner crochet is a fantastic, flexible technique for every skill level. Starting with just a few simple stitches, you can create everything from pillow covers to oversized throws. The steps above will get your triangles, squares, and rectangles looking crisp every time, and you’ll soon discover how intuitive shaping, color changes, and borders can be.

With your stitch markers ready and a little yarn in hand, the C2C journey can take you just about anywhere. Keep practicing, try out variations, and experiment with color. Don’t hesitate to reach out if you have questions or check out other guides, like my Step-by-Step C2C Shawl Border, for more ways to finish your work beautifully.

If you loved this tutorial, subscribe on YouTube for ongoing tutorials and patterns. Happy crocheting and stay hooked!

FAQs

1. What does “C2C” mean in crochet?

C2C stands for “corner to corner.” It’s a crochet method where you work diagonally, building squares or rectangles block by block from one corner to the opposite.

2. Is C2C crochet good for beginners?

Yes. C2C crochet uses only basic stitches (chains, double crochet, and slip stitch). With patience and practice, even new crocheters can master it.

3. What kind of yarn works best for C2C projects?

Worsted weight acrylic yarn is most common and easy to use, but you can use any yarn you like. Use lighter yarn for delicate pieces and heavier yarn for thick, cozy blankets.

4. How do I know which hook size to use?

A 6 mm crochet hook is great for most worsted weight yarns. Use a smaller hook for a denser, firmer fabric or a larger hook for more drape. Test with a small swatch to find your preference.

5. How do I change colors cleanly in C2C?

Finish the last yarn-over of the previous stitch with the new color, then continue the next block. Keep yarn tails on the back and work over them or weave them in when done.

6. Why are my edges slanted or uneven?

It’s usually from missing an increase or decrease step. Always count your blocks in each row and use stitch markers for reference.

7. Can I make rectangles, not just squares?

Yes! Begin as a triangle, then work only one side as an increase, while the other starts decreasing. This creates a rectangle instead of a square.

8. What projects can I make with C2C?

Popular choices are blankets, scarves, pillows, washcloths, shawls, and graph-based designs. The diagonal construction opens up many design options.

9. How do I estimate how much yarn I’ll need?

Make a sample triangle, measure how much area it covers, and weigh it. Scale up based on your project’s size, using your sample as a guide to plan your total yarn needs.

10. How do I keep my C2C edges neat?

Always start and end rows as shown in the pattern. Count blocks, use stitch markers, and keep your slip stitches loose but tidy.

Christa Patel is an experienced crochet designer and teacher known for her friendly, clear tutorials and creative patterns. As the founder of Secret Yarnery, Christa has taught thousands of crocheters around the world how to master techniques like corner to corner (C2C), colorwork, and unique edging. Her step-by-step videos and approachable teaching style make even complex stitches simple for crocheters of all levels.

With years of hands-on experience and a passion for yarn crafts, Christa shares tested tips and practical solutions to common crochet challenges. Her designs have been featured in leading craft blogs and she continually inspires her community with new projects, video classes, and pattern collections.

Connect with Christa through her YouTube channel or browse her latest patterns and resources on the Secret Yarnery website. Whether you're just starting to crochet or looking to expand your skills, Christa’s tutorials and guides offer trustworthy support every step of the way.