EASY Drunken Granny Crochet Baby Blanket - Easy Pattern for Beginners

Drunken Granny Crochet Baby Blanket Pattern

What Makes the Drunken Granny Crochet So Special?

Materials I use (and how I pick hook size)

I keep the supplies simple for this one. You can absolutely swap yarn types, but the fabric changes a lot depending on your hook size and tension.

Here’s what I use:

• Worsted weight acrylic yarn (size 4), like this option: worsted weight acrylic yarn
• 6 mm crochet hook, like this: 6 mm crochet hook
• Yarn needle (for weaving in ends)
• Scissors
• Measuring tape (helpful for checking width and length as I go)

If you want the full written directions laid out cleanly, I also have the WRITTEN PATTERN available.

Why I like a slightly larger hook for this blanket

I like this blanket soft and flexible, not stiff. Using a slightly larger hook helps the stitches relax, which gives the blanket better drape and a gentler feel. If I crochet my chains tight (it happens), I’ll even go up another hook size just for the foundation chain so the first row doesn’t feel like I’m fighting it.

A simple tension trick that helps me: I don’t tighten the loop on my hook after each chain. I let it stay naturally open so my chain doesn’t shrink.

Optional tools that make it easier

If you’re new, these help a lot:

1. Stitch markers (mark every 5 chains so counting is painless)
2. A blunt-tip yarn needle (for a tidy finish)
3. A notebook page or row counter (if you want to track yarn usage)

Starting the blanket: slip knot and foundation chain

I begin with a slip knot, then crochet my foundation chain to the width I want. This is where the whole blanket size is decided, so I take a minute here and make sure I’m happy before moving on.

Step 1: Make a slip knot (leave a tail)

I leave a decent yarn tail because I’ll need it later for weaving in.

Here’s how I do my slip knot:

1. Lay the yarn tail over the palm of my non-dominant hand.
2. Hold the tail in place (I trap it with my thumb and ring finger).
3. Wrap the working yarn around two fingers to form an X.
4. Pull a loop through and tighten it gently.
5. Slip the loop onto my hook and snug it up, but not too tight.

I keep that tail long enough to comfortably thread onto a needle later.

Step 2: Chain in multiples of 5 for the width

I crochet chains in groups of 5 until the blanket is as wide as I want.

When I count, I count the little V shapes in the chain. I don’t count the loop sitting on my hook.

A small habit that helps: I pinch every 5th chain as I go. It makes it easy to check that I’m staying on track with my multiples of five.

If your chains are tight, go up in hook size for the chain (even 6.5 mm or 7 mm can help), then switch back to your main hook for the body of the blanket.

Row 1: Building the first Drunken Granny shells

The first row is the only row where I’m working into the chain itself. Once this row is done, the blanket gets much easier because I’ll mostly work into spaces.

Where to start in the chain

After my foundation chain is the width I want, I:

• Ch 4, then I turn my attention back to the chain
• I work into the 5th chain from my hook

That “5th chain from the hook” matters because the stitch pattern is built on the same five-count rhythm as the starting chain.

The Row 1 repeat (shell blocks across)

In that 5th chain, I crochet the full block:

• 4 dc, ch 2, 1 dc (all in the same chain)

That block is the “shell” I repeat across.

Then I:

• Skip 4 chains
• Work the same block into the 5th chain
• Repeat across the row

So the rhythm is: work the block, skip four, work the block, skip four.

How I finish Row 1 neatly

At the end of the row, I don’t want a wobbly edge. If I have a few chains left, I adjust so I end cleanly. What I’m aiming for is finishing with:

• 1 dc into the last chain (so the edge stays straight)

Then I:

• Ch 3 to turn

That turning chain helps keep the border edge even as the rows stack up.

Row 2 and beyond: shells into spaces (the easy part)

Once Row 1 is finished, the blanket becomes a repeat that feels almost automatic. Instead of working into the tops of stitches, I work into the spaces I already made.

The key move: ignore the stitches, crochet into the ch-2 spaces

After I ch 3 and turn, I yarn over and go straight into the first ch-2 space from the previous row.

In each ch-2 space, I crochet the same block:

• 4 dc, ch 2, 1 dc

Then I jump straight to the next ch-2 space and do it again. There are no chains between blocks. I’m just placing each block into the next space.

Keeping the edges straight on every row

At the end of each row, I make sure I’m ending the row the same way each time:

• I work a dc into the top of the turning chain from the row below (not into the space)

Then I:

• Ch 3 and turn again

That one habit helps the blanket keep a clean, consistent edge, even if my tension shifts a little over time.

Common mistake: forgetting the chain-2 gap

Sometimes I get in the groove and accidentally crochet only 4 dc, then move on, forgetting the ch 2 and the final dc that finishes the block. That makes the spacing look different and can throw off the look of the shells.

The good news is I don’t have to rip everything out.

How I fix it without frogging

If I notice the mistake later (even on the next row), I can “cheat” it into place:

• On the next row, instead of working into a ch-2 space that isn’t there, I work the shell into the top of the first dc of that mistaken block.
• I make sure I pick up the stitch properly (both loops on the hook), then crochet the full block there: 4 dc, ch 2, dc.

It makes the hole a bit smaller than normal, but it blends in surprisingly well. I’ve made this mistake more times than I’d like to admit, and it’s hard to spot once the blanket grows.

If it bothers you, you can always rip back and redo, but I’m happy keeping the fix and moving forward.

Crochet until your blanket is the size you want

After the first couple of rows, I stop thinking about the stitches and start thinking about the fabric. I keep repeating the “shells into spaces” row until the blanket looks right for my project.

For my baby blanket, I used five balls of yarn and ended up with a square that feels like a great baby size.

A quick check I do every so often: I count the ch-2 spaces across and make sure I’m still ending each row with that edge dc in the turning chain. If those stay consistent, the sides stay straight.

The simple border that cleans up every edge

When my blanket is finished, I add a simple border that does two things:

• It smooths the edges so they look finished.
• It gives me clean spacing if I want to add another decorative border later.

This border is all about single crochet placement and keeping a count that matches the pattern’s base of five.

Border setup on the top edge

After my last row, I do my usual ch 3 at the end.

Then I turn and begin working a border pattern that uses sc, ch 1, and ch 2 to create tidy spacing.

I start by making:

• 1 sc, then ch 2

Then, working across the top edge of the shells:

• I skip the first dc of the shell and place 1 sc into the second dc
• Ch 1
• Place 1 sc into the space
• Ch 2
• Skip one stitch, then repeat

It creates a structured edge that matches the stitch rhythm of the blanket and sets me up for the side borders.

Side border: 2 single crochets in each space

Along the side edges (the tall edges of the rows), I keep it simple and flat:

• 2 sc into each space all the way down the side

This lays nicely without pulling in or flaring out, and it looks clean right away.

When I reach the bottom corner, I keep going right around the corner into the next section.

Bottom edge: returning to groups of five

Along the bottom edge (the foundation chain side), I want to match the same “five” logic the blanket started with.

To do that, I work:

• 2 sc into the stitch area, then
• 3 sc into the next space area (around the chain)

Then I repeat that 2-and-3 rhythm as I go. It gives me five stitches per section, which helps the border lay evenly.

Corner turns: giving myself space without making a lump

When I reach a corner where I need a clear turn, I use this simple corner:

• 2 sc, ch 1, then (after turning the work slightly) 2 sc in the same corner spot

That little chain gives me room to turn without the corner puckering.

Final edge: alternate 3 and 2 to keep spacing even

On the last side, the spacing alternates between smaller “shell top” spots and larger spaces. To keep things even, I do:

• 3 sc in the spot closest to the top of the shell (the tighter area)
• 2 sc in the larger space

Repeating that keeps the border balanced so it doesn’t ripple.

Joining and finishing

When I get back to where I started, I:

• Ch 1
• Join with a sl st into the first single crochet

Then I cut my yarn, pull the tail through to secure, and weave in my ends with a yarn needle.

If you want another border option that pairs well with this stitch, I also share an Easy Drunken Granny border free pattern.

Inspiration for Additional Borders

Caring for Your Drunken Granny Baby Blanket

Reflect and Share

Conclusion: Start Your Drunken Granny Crochet Today!

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)