Granny Square Blanket Pattern With a Perfect Matching Start and Finish

Granny Square Blanket Pattern With a Perfect Matching Start and Finish

I used to think slightly wobbly ends were just part of a classic granny-style blanket. Not anymore. This free crochet pattern for a Granny Square Blanket (worked as granny stitch stripes in rows) is built so the first row and the last row match beautifully, with super straight edges and no extra border required. It’s calm, repetitive, and perfect for using up yarn you already have; plus, it scales easily from a baby blanket to a throw blanket.

Why this granny stripe blanket looks polished without an edging

This pattern fixes the two things that can make a granny-style blanket look “unfinished”: messy ends and uneven edges. The setup creates a clean start, then everything settles into a simple one-row repeat that stays consistent all the way up, with no need for separate border instructions since the design is polished from the start.

Here’s what I like most about it:

• No edging needed, the sides are already straight.
• The start and finish match, so both ends look intentional.
• It’s a one-row repeat, great for relaxed, steady crocheting.
• It’s a stash buster, I can grab several colors and just crochet until each ball runs out.

If you love the look of granny stitch but want a neater result, this is the kind of blanket that feels “done” the moment you fasten off. If you also enjoy making squares with crisp stripes using the granny square motif, I keep similar color-play ideas in this step-by-step striped granny squares tutorial.

Matching edges (what changes compared to a typical “grandma” blanket)

The trick is all in the beginning. Instead of starting with a regular foundation chain and building upward in the usual way, I build a foundation that gets worked around, so the first row is balanced. That balance is what helps the last row visually echo the first.

The best part is that I’m not doing anything complicated later to “fix” the edges. The structure is built in from the start, then the repeat does the work for me.

A simple stash-buster plan that stays fun

I like this blanket when I want color, but I don’t want planning stress. I pick about six colors, add some white (I used about half a ball), and just work stripes until each color is gone for striking color combinations.

That means:

• Some colors will only give a couple of rows.
• Some colors might stretch for many rows.
• It doesn’t matter, because the repeat keeps everything looking tidy.

When I run out of yarn and I have little leftovers that aren’t enough to finish a full row, I save them for a separate project (I’m making one granny square in each color I use during the year). It’s an easy way to keep scraps under control without forcing them into the blanket.

Pattern notes: Finished size and how to adjust the width

My finished crochet afghan came out 36 inches wide and 56 inches tall.

The width is easy to change because the foundation chain is based on a simple rule:

• Chain any multiple of 3 for the width you want.

In my blanket, I chained 105 to set the width. For a baby blanket, try chaining 60 for about 20 inches wide. For the tutorial demo, I used a smaller chain (21) just to show the steps clearly. The most important thing is to write down your starting chain number, because you’ll use it to calculate the stitch count in the setup row.

If you’re ever planning a blanket made from squares instead (and you want help with sizing math), this guide is handy: how many granny squares you need for a blanket.

Materials I used (and what to swap if you’re using different yarn)

I used Ice Yarns Favorite (worsted weight yarn at a size 4 yarn weight, but on the thinner side, it can feel closer to a size 3). I also used a little Softly Baby mixed in. Each 100 g ball was about 210 meters.

Supplies checklist

• Yarn: six colors plus some white (I used about half a ball of white)
• Crochet hook: I used a 6 mm crochet hook (if your worsted is thicker, a 7 mm might be better)
• Tapestry needle for weaving ends
• Scissors

From the video description, these are the same tools linked there:

• yarn option used in the tutorial links
• crochet hook link from the description
• sharp tip needles for weaving ends

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Yarn and hook notes that make the start easier

If you tend to have tight crochet tension, I don’t fight it. I just grab a larger hook for the foundation chain, then switch back to my main hook for the rest. A tight chain can make the blanket edge feel stiff, so this little switch keeps the bottom edge relaxed and smooth.

Where to get the pattern and extra help

I keep written patterns on my site, written in plain language (the way I’d explain it sitting right beside you). If you want more granny basics before you start this blanket, this is a great refresher: how to crochet a granny square for beginners, ideal for classic styles compared to other popular granny styles like the sunburst granny square.

If you’re left-handed, the video tutorial description also includes a left-handed tutorials playlist.

Step 1: Foundation chain (multiples of 3)

I start with my first color and make a Slip knot the way I normally do. I leave a long tail so I can weave it in later, then tighten the loop onto my hook.

Now I chain a multiple of 3.

• For my full blanket: 105 chains
• For a small sample: 21 chains

I count in threes (1-2-3, 1-2-3), but I still make sure I know the final number. I don’t want to guess later.

Make the slip knot with a tail you can actually weave in

It’s tempting to leave tiny tails, especially when I’m excited to start, but this blanket has stripes. Stripes mean ends. I leave enough yarn to thread a needle comfortably, then the finishing step stays stress-free.

Step 2: Chain 5, skip 3, and double crochet

After I finish my multiple-of-3 chain, I chain 5 more.

Then I:

• Skip 3 chains
• Work 1 Double crochet into the 4th chain from the hook

It doesn’t matter if I go under one loop or two loops of the chain here. Nobody will ever see that detail once the blanket grows.

Step 3: Double crochet around the chain (multiple + 1)

This is the setup that makes the whole blanket behave, establishing a row-based structure unlike round instructions in some granny patterns.

I work double crochet stitches around the foundation chain, aiming for:

• (multiple of 3) + 1 double crochets total

So:

• If I chained 21, I make 22 double crochets around the chain.
• If I chained 105, I make 106 double crochets around the chain.

I literally crochet “around” the chain by inserting my hook under the chain and making the stitch. The spacing can look strange at first. Some stitches might bunch up, some might spread out. I don’t worry about it because the next step locks it into place.

Counting tip that saves frustration

When I count, I don’t count the first double crochet I made back into the chain after the chain-5 and skip-3. I only count the stitches I make around the chain after that, because that’s where the pattern count matters.

If you like having a bigger picture of granny blanket options, I also have a cozy, classic approach here: granny square blanket tutorial for all skill levels.

Step 4: Slip stitch to close, chain 2, then rotate (don’t flip)

After my around-the-chain double crochets are done:

1. Chain 2
2. Slip stitch into the very first chain at the top (from the chain-5 area)
3. Chain 2 again (this becomes the chain 2 space as part of the turning setup)

Now for the part that matters: I rotate the work. I don’t flip it over like turning a page. I spin it so I can work along the other side of that starting chain.

If things look loose or oddly spaced right now, that’s normal. The next row settles it.

Step 5: Work granny stitch shells along the other side

Now I’m building granny stitch clusters (shells) along the rotated edge.

Here’s the rhythm:

• Skip 2 stitches (think of it as the first set of three)
• Work a double crochet cluster around the chain space
• Move over 3 stitches
• Work a double crochet cluster around the chain space again

I repeat that all the way across.

At the end of the row, I finish with a final 3 double crochets in the last chain space to close it off cleanly.

This is the moment where it starts to look like a proper granny stripe blanket, and the edge begins to straighten up.

The one-row repeat (this is where it gets relaxing)

From here on out, it’s a true one-row repeat.

How I start every row

Every row begins the same way:

1. Chain 2
2. Turn the work

Then I skip the very first granny shell (the first double crochet cluster). I don’t work into it.

What I repeat across the row

I work:

• 3 double crochets (a double crochet cluster) in each chain 2 space between shells, all the way across

That’s it. No complicated counting, no surprise corners, just steady granny stitch clusters landing in the spaces.

Ending each row neatly (my “start point, end point” reminder)

To keep my edges consistent, I use a simple reminder:

• Start point: chain 2, turn, skip the first shell
• End point: work a double crochet cluster (3 double crochets) in the last space

That last double crochet cluster matters. It’s what keeps the edge straight and makes the rows stack evenly.

Once I finish the last shell, I chain 2 for the chain 2 space, turn, skip the first shell again, and continue.

Changing colors at the end of a row (clean and simple)

I change colors only at the end of a row in this continuous row project (unlike join-as-you-go motif projects), and I do it during the last double crochet of the last shell. Unlike methods that use a slip stitch to change colors, this keeps things clean within the stitch itself.

Here’s how:

1. Start the last double crochet as normal.
2. Yarn over, pull through the first two loops.
3. Stop with two loops left on the hook.
4. Cut the yarn, leaving a tail long enough to weave in later.
5. Put the new color loop on the hook.
6. Hold both tails along the back of the work.
7. Yarn over with the new color and pull through the last two loops to finish that double crochet.

Then I chain 2 and turn as usual.

It can look a little loose or awkward right at the edge when I do this. I ignore it. Once the next row is in, it looks normal, and the tail gets woven in securely later.

If you like projects that make color changes feel tidy and intentional, you might also enjoy this log cabin granny square crochet tutorial for another stash-friendly style.

Crochet until you hit your size (or you run out of yarn)

I keep going until my crochet afghan is the size I want, or until my yarn supply tells me I’m done.

My approach is simple:

• Crochet each color until the ball is finished.
• Switch colors when I can’t complete another full row.
• Add in white stripes where I want them (I did two rows of white between color sections).

Because each yarn ball can vary (and some colors stretch farther than others), each stripe will be a different height. That uneven stripe height is part of the charm, and it makes the blanket feel like a real stash buster.

Finishing: fasten off

Unlike some granny projects that start with a magic circle or end with a row of single crochet, this row-based pattern finishes simply. When I’m ready to end:

1. After the last double crochet at the end of the row, chain 1
2. Cut the yarn
3. Pull the yarn through the loop on the hook to complete the slip stitch
4. Tug to snug it down and secure it

Now it’s time for the part nobody posts photos of, weaving in ends.

Weave in ends so the edges stay straight

I weave in tails by matching the yarn color to the area it came from (white into white, turquoise into turquoise, and so on). I want the tail to disappear into the stitch texture.

My rules are simple:

• Don’t weave only along the very edge, I move in a little so it holds better.
• Don’t pull too tight, tight tails can pinch the fabric and make a dent.
• Weave back and forth a few times under the “fat” parts of the stitches so it stays put.

A sharp-tip tapestry needle makes this easier, especially when sewing the tails under specific strands without splitting the yarn. After all ends are secure, pin your blanket to blocking boards for perfectly straight edges. If you want a different granny blanket style later, I also have a round option here: round granny square blanket pattern.

Conclusion

This Granny Square Blanket pattern gives me the granny stitch look I love in a reversible blanket, but with clean matching ends that don’t need a border to hide mistakes. Once the setup is done, I can settle into the one-row repeat and just enjoy the motion of the stitches. If you want to deviate from the minimalist look, consider decorative elements like a picot border or treble crochet details, or keep it simple with a single crochet edging. If you make one, try the stash-buster approach and let the yarn decide the stripes. Thanks for crocheting along with me on this free crochet pattern, and tell me what colors you’d pick for your version.

Left Handed?

FAQs

1) Do I need to add a border to make the edges straight?

No. The setup row is designed to balance the first edge so the sides stay straight as you build. If you want a border for style, you can add one, but it is not needed to “fix” the blanket.

2) Why do the first and last rows match in this blanket?

Because the beginning is worked in a way that creates a balanced foundation. Instead of a standard “start at the bottom and build up” look, the foundation is worked around so the top and bottom edges end up looking intentional and similar.

3) My start looks loose and bumpy. Did I do it wrong?

Probably not. The foundation can look odd at first (bunched stitches, uneven spacing). Once you rotate (don’t flip) and work the granny stitch shells, everything settles and the edge straightens out.

4) What does “rotate, don’t flip” mean?

It means you spin the work so you can crochet along the other side of the starting chain, without turning it over to the back. You are basically working around the foundation chain so the blanket has a cleaner, matching look at both ends.

5) What if I accidentally flip my work?

It will still work, but the edges may not look as neat and “matching.” If you notice early, you can undo back to the rotate step and try again. If you notice later, you can keep going and consider adding a simple border at the end.

6) How do I adjust the width?

Chain any multiple of 3 for your starting chain. If you want to keep the “multiple + 1” setup correct, write down your starting chain number so you can match the stitch count in the setup row.

7) I chained 105. How many double crochets do I make around the chain?

You want (multiple of 3) + 1 total double crochets around the chain.
So for 105 chains, that is 106 double crochets around the chain (following the setup described in the pattern).

8) I crochet tight. How can I stop the bottom edge from pulling in?

Use a larger hook just for the foundation chain, then switch back to your main hook for the rest. You can also focus on making your chain looser than usual.

9) What yarn weight works best for this pattern?

Worsted weight (size 4) is a great fit, but you can use other weights. Just know your blanket size and drape will change. Match your hook to your yarn so the fabric feels flexible, not stiff.

10) How do I change colors neatly at the end of a row?

Change colors during the last double crochet of the last shell. Stop when you have two loops on the hook, then pull through with the new color to finish that stitch. This keeps the color change clean and secure.

Hi, I’m Christa Patel. I’m a crochet lover who likes patterns that feel relaxing to make, but still look polished when they are done. I focus on clear, practical steps, the kind you would share with a friend sitting right next to you. I especially love stash-buster projects, granny stitch patterns, and simple tricks that help edges look neat without needing extra “fix it later” borders.

When I’m not crocheting, I’m usually planning the next cozy project, testing color combos from whatever yarn I already have, and finding easier ways to explain the parts that often confuse beginners. If you try this blanket, I’d love to hear what colors you picked and how you made it your own.