Solid Heart Granny Square - Easy Beginner Crochet Pattern!

Solid Heart Granny Square - Easy Beginner Crochet Pattern!

Want a Heart Granny Square that looks clean and solid (not lacy), is easy to remember, and still plays nicely with classic granny squares? This one checks all the boxes. You crochet a heart first, then square it up with a round that keeps your stitch count in multiples of three, so it mixes and matches with traditional granny square patterns.

This is also a great scrap-yarn project. The heart uses just a small bit of color, then you switch to a background shade to turn it into a neat square you can keep growing as large as you like.

Materials and tools for a solid heart granny square

This pattern is designed to be simple, stash-friendly, and beginner-okay. The tutorial uses worsted weight acrylic, but the steps stay the same with other yarns. Your finished size will change with yarn and hook choice.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• Yarn (size 4 worsted weight acrylic): about 5 g for the heart color and about 8 g for the background/square color. The tutorial uses scraps, which makes it perfect for leftovers. Worsted weight yarn option
• 6 mm crochet hook: 6 mm crochet hook
• Scissors
• Needle for sewing in ends: sharp tip yarn needles

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If you like having a written version open beside you, the Secret Yarnery patterns are written in plain English. For another heart-square idea, see the 15-minute Heart Granny Square tutorial.

Video timestamps (quick navigation)

1. 0:00
2. 0:47 Yarn and tools
3. 1:35 Start the ring
4. 2:23 Round 1, 11 double crochets
5. 4:06 Round 2 increases, stitch count
6. 5:35 Shape the heart
7. 10:57 Heart finished
8. 11:08 Start squaring up
9. 16:10 Valley stitches tip
10. 18:57 Final round and join
11. 23:33 Finish off, weave ends

Step 1: Start the heart with a simple ring

You’ll begin with your heart color. A chain ring is used in the tutorial, but a magic ring also works if that’s your preference.

Make a slip knot and place it on your hook. Then:

Chain 3, then slip stitch into the first chain to form a ring. When you slip stitch, it helps to hold that tiny ring open with your fingers so you can stitch into it easily.

Now chain 2. In this pattern, that chain-2 does not count as a stitch for the heart rounds.

Round 1: Work 11 double crochets into the ring

Make 11 double crochets into the center of the ring, and crochet over your yarn tail as you go. Working over the tail saves time later, since it helps secure the center.

If the ring feels crowded, slide your stitches back along the ring to make more space. You want the stitches to sit flat beside each other, not stacked on top of each other.

To count accurately, ignore the chain-2. A simple trick is to cover the chain with your thumb and count only the double crochets. You should have 11 double crochets total.

Slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet to join (again, ignore the chain-2 because it doesn’t count).

Chain 2 to begin the next round.

Step 2: Increase Round 2 (and hit the stitch count)

Round 2 builds the fullness you need before shaping the heart. You’ll increase all the way around:

Work 2 double crochets into each stitch around.

When you get back to the top, you’ll have 22 double crochets (not counting the chain-2). The tutorial adds one more double crochet into the stitch at the base of the chain to reach the correct total.

Add 1 double crochet into that stitch at the bottom of the chain so you have 23 double crochets total.

Now slip stitch into the top of the first double crochet to join.

Chain 1 to start shaping. This chain-1 is used as you move into the heart shaping steps.

If you want to practice basic granny square structure alongside this project, the beginner step-by-step granny square tutorial is a helpful companion.

Step 3: Shape the heart (top bumps and bottom point)

This is the fun part. You’ll sculpt the heart by changing stitch heights across the round, with taller stitches making the rounded “bumps” and shorter stitches smoothing the curves.

A quick note on terminology: the tutorial describes wrapping the yarn twice and pulling through in three pull-throughs. That’s a treble crochet (US terms).

Shape the first half of the heart

Starting in the next stitch:

• Work 1 half double crochet (hdc) + 1 double crochet (dc) into the same stitch.

Now you’ll create the first top bump:

• In each of the next 3 stitches, work 2 treble crochets (tr) into each stitch.
  That’s 6 treble crochets spread across 3 stitches.

Continue down the curve:

• Next stitch: 2 double crochets
• Next stitch: 2 half double crochets
• Next 3 stitches: 1 single crochet in each stitch (3 single crochets total)

At this point, you’ve formed the top center area of the heart.

Form the bottom point, then mirror the other side

Now you’ll work the lower half:

• Next stitch: 1 half double crochet
• Next stitch: 1 double crochet + 1 treble crochet in the same stitch

That completes one side. Now mirror the shaping back up the other side so the heart stays symmetrical:

Chain 1, then:

• Next stitch: 1 treble crochet + 1 double crochet in the same stitch
• Next 3 stitches: 1 half double crochet in each
• Next stitch: 1 single crochet
• Next stitch: 2 half double crochets
• Next stitch: 2 double crochets
• Next 3 stitches: 2 treble crochets into each stitch
• Final stitch: 1 double crochet + 1 half double crochet into the same stitch

To finish the heart, slip stitch into the join area at the “valley.” Pull your yarn snug so that dip stays defined.

Chain 1 to secure, then cut your yarn. Leave a tail long enough to sew in later. If you want the center hole tighter, pull the starting tail to close it and sew it in.

If you enjoy seeing other heart-square constructions, compare this solid-style approach to a different method like Joy of Motion Crochet’s heart granny square tutorial.

Step 4: Square up the heart (turn the heart into a granny square)

Now you’ll switch to your background color (the tutorial uses white). The goal is to follow the outline of the heart and build corners so it becomes a square.

Join the new yarn in the right spot

Find the bottom point of the heart and rotate it so the point faces down. Cover the chain-1 with your fingers (so you don’t accidentally count it).

From the bottom point, skip 3 stitches and join in the 4th stitch.

Pull up a loop of your new yarn and slip stitch with both strands to join. Drop the tail so you can crochet over it.

Chain 3. In this squaring-up round, that chain-3 counts as your first treble crochet.

In that same stitch, work 2 more treble crochets (so you have a group of 3 trebles total).

Work up and around, mirroring the shaping

Follow the curve upward with shorter stitches:

• Next stitch: 1 double crochet
• Next stitch: 1 half double crochet
• Next stitch: 1 single crochet

Skip the chain (don’t work into the chain space), then continue into the next stitch:

• 1 single crochet
• 1 half double crochet
• 1 double crochet

Now you’ll make the first corner. In the next stitch:

Work 3 treble crochets, chain 2, then (in the next stitch) work 3 treble crochets.

That forms a clear corner and sets the square shape.

Build the sides and handle the “valley” join

Along the next side, the stitches step down in height:

Work 1 double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches, then 1 half double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches.

Then make 1 single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches.

In the next stitch, work 2 double crochets into the same stitch, then chain 2.

Continue down toward the valley with:

• 1 double crochet
• 1 half double crochet
• 1 single crochet
• 1 half double crochet
• 1 double crochet

Now you’re at the dip where the heart was joined. It can feel knobby, because it includes slip stitches.

In that valley center spot, work 2 double crochets.

A helpful check from the tutorial: there are five stitches on each side of those two valley double crochets before you hit the corners.

From here, repeat the same stitch heights in reverse order as you head to the next corner, keeping the shape balanced.

Finish the last side:

Work 1 single crochet into each of the next 3 stitches, then 1 half double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches, then 1 double crochet into each of the next 2 stitches.

In the next stitch, make your last corner with 3 treble crochets.

At this point, your heart is officially squared up.

For more granny square variations you can mix into a blanket layout, the sunflower granny square step-by-step guide is a fun option that still keeps a classic square shape.

Step 5: Final round to even it out (and keep the classic granny counts)

This last round makes the edges look cleaner and sets the stitch count so it mixes well with traditional granny squares.

Join neatly in the corner

Join with a chain-1 and a single crochet into the top of the chain. In this round, the starting chain counts as a stitch, and that joining method helps hide the “chain ladder” look on the side of your square.

Now chain 2 (this counts as a stitch for this round), and make 1 double crochet into the same corner space.

Along each side:

You will skip the first stitch after each corner, then double crochet into the next stitch. After that, make 1 double crochet into each stitch all the way across to the next corner.

In each corner space, work:

2 double crochets, chain 2, 2 double crochets (all into the same corner space)

Repeat that pattern around the square. Let the corner stitches cover that first stitch after the corner, then begin in the second stitch. This small habit is what keeps the stitch count lining up for “sets of three” in later rounds.

Make it bigger (optional)

If you want a larger Heart Granny Square, keep repeating the same idea:

• Corners: 2 dc, ch 2, 2 dc
• Sides: skip the first stitch after the corner, then double crochet across

This keeps the square consistent for mixing with other blocks.

Finish off

For the tutorial size, finish with:

Chain 2, then slip stitch into the top of the chain to join. Chain 1 to secure, cut your yarn, and pull through.

Sew in your tails with a needle.

If you’re planning a bigger project, a granny square blanket tutorial is a great next step once you’ve made a stack of squares.

Why this Heart Granny Square is so easy to use in projects

A lot of heart squares are adorable but tricky to combine with standard blocks. This one is designed to avoid that headache.

You get a heart center with a solid finish, then a clean square outline with a stitch count that fits nicely beside traditional granny squares. It’s the kind of square you can scatter through a blanket, turn into a pillow front, or make as a quick gift when you want something with a little meaning.

It’s also a great way to use scraps without committing to a whole new project. One small bit of color becomes a heart, and a simple background shade makes it feel polished.

If you want to compare styles, here’s another solid option to explore later: Adore Crea’s solid heart granny square pattern.

To keep learning (and to grab the extras mentioned in the video description), here are a few helpful resources:

• Secret Yarnery YouTube channel subscription
• free crochet cheat sheet
• left-handed tutorials playlist

Conclusion

This Heart Granny Square is a simple pattern with a polished result, a cute heart center, tidy corners, and a stitch count that’s easy to combine with classic granny squares. Make one as a test, then make a few more in different colors and see how quickly a pile starts to grow. If you keep the final round going, it also turns into a larger square without any extra math. Sew in your tails, stack your squares, and decide what your hearts are going to become.

Left Handed?

FAQs

1) Is this Heart Granny Square beginner friendly?

Yes. I use basic stitches and I walk you through the shaping step by step. If you can double crochet, you can make this square.

2) What size does this Heart Granny Square turn out?

It depends on your yarn and hook. With worsted weight yarn and a 6 mm hook, mine comes out as a small mix-and-match square. If you need an exact size, I recommend making one test square and measuring it, then adjusting hook size.

3) Can I use a magic ring instead of a chain ring?

Yes. A magic ring works great if you prefer it. I use a chain ring because it is easy to see and easy to teach, but either method is fine.

4) Why doesn’t the starting chain count as a stitch in the first rounds?

I do that to keep the stitch counts clean and easier to count. It also helps the heart look more solid and even.

5) My stitch count is off. What is the most common mistake?

The most common issue is counting the chain as a stitch when the pattern says not to. I literally cover the chain with my thumb and count only the real stitches.

6) How do I keep the heart “valley” (top dip) neat?

I keep the slip stitch in the valley snug. When I square it up, I also work the valley stitches right into that center dip (the “valley stitch tip”), which helps flatten the bump.

7) Can I make the square bigger after the heart is finished?

Yes. After the final smoothing round, I can keep repeating that last round to grow the square to any size I need.

8) Will this Heart Granny Square match a regular granny square for joining?

That’s the goal of the final round. I keep the stitch count working in neat multiples so it joins nicely with classic granny squares. I also skip the first stitch after each corner to keep everything lined up.

9) What yarn works best for a solid heart look?

A smooth worsted weight yarn shows the heart shape clearly. Acrylic is great for easy washing, and cotton gives a crisp stitch look. I also avoid fuzzy yarns if I want the heart edges to stay sharp.

10) Can I change colors more than once?

Yes. I change once for the border, but you can add more color changes on later rounds. If you change colors, I suggest joining in a corner so the seam is less noticeable.

11) My square is curling or wavy. How do I fix it?

Curling usually means the tension is tight, so I go up a hook size. Wavy edges usually mean too many stitches, so I recheck counts and make sure I am skipping that first stitch after each corner on the last round.

12) What can I make with Heart Granny Squares?

I use them for blankets, tote bags, pillow covers, scarves, and baby gifts. They also make cute wall hangings when I block them and join them with simple whip stitch or slip stitch seams.

Hi, I’m Christa Patel. I’m a crochet lover who enjoys simple, relaxing patterns that look polished without being hard to remember. I love projects that use up scrap yarn, work up fast, and still fit into classic crochet builds like traditional granny squares.

Most of my tutorials focus on clear, step by step instructions, practical tips (like stitch counting and clean joins), and patterns you can mix and match into bigger projects like blankets, bags, and pillow covers. If you’re building your skills one square at a time, you’re in the right place.

Find more crochet patterns and tutorials at secretyarnery.com, and follow along on YouTube for the full walkthroughs.