Flat & Fabulous Corner to Corner Granny Stitch Blanket!

Flat & Fabulous Corner to Corner Granny Stitch Blanket!

A corner-to-corner blanket is one of those projects that feels like it grows by itself, making it a heartfelt handmade valentine gift. This Easy Granny Stitch Corner to Corner Blanket is a beginner-friendly free crochet pattern that keeps things extra simple because the entire body uses basic double crochet stitches, worked into spaces, with a calm one-row repeat you can memorize fast.

You also get a big bonus: straight, tidy edges (even on the diagonal), plus an optional two-round border that's dense, firm, and helps the blanket keep its shape. This corner to corner size works perfectly as a crochet baby blanket; the sample shown finished at about 42 inches wide by 48 inches tall, but you can make yours any size you want by adjusting how many rows you work.

Materials and tools for a smooth, stress-free blanket

Perfect for Valentine's Day crochet projects, this blanket works beautifully in everyday, easy-care yarn. In the video tutorial, Christa used regular, size 4 worsted-weight acrylic in a Miami Vice-inspired palette, then added a strong border in gray. You can copy that vibe or go fully stash-buster with whatever colors you love.

Here's the yarn and other supplies used for the sample:

If you want the same type of yarn supply linked in the video description, here are the exact tools and materials referenced there (affiliate links):

• worsted-weight acrylic yarn option
• crochet hook option
• sharp tip tapestry needles

As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Stripe planning matters more than people think, especially with a diagonal blanket. In the tutorial, the stripes were kept interesting by rotating three main colors and adding white rows regularly so the color pattern didn't feel too repetitive.

If you like having extra background for crochet patterns for beginners before starting a diagonal project, this corner to corner crochet guide is a helpful read alongside the tutorial.

Why this granny stitch C2C blanket is so beginner-friendly

Unlike traditional granny square motifs that use "blocks" which can feel fiddly at first, this one feels different because it's granny stitch at heart. You work clusters of double crochet into spaces, then repeat the same steps back and forth.

The best part is how predictable it becomes with these step-by-step instructions:

• You always begin rows the same way (chain 3, turn).
• You work 3 double crochets in each space across the row.
• You finish with 4 double crochets in the last space while you're still growing the blanket.

That simple structure is why the edges stay clean and why it's easy to spot mistakes early. Plus, the optional border is only two rounds, but it adds a finished look that feels "blanket-store sturdy."

If you've ever loved granny stitch but wished your edges were straighter, this style gives you that neat look without complicated stitch patterns, ideal for home decor.

And because the blanket grows diagonally, it's easy to customize. Keep crocheting until one side reaches the width you want for the narrow edge, then switch into the shaping steps to finish as a rectangle or square.

For another straight-edge granny stitch blanket style (worked in rows instead of diagonal), this granny stripe blanket pattern is a great comparison.

Starting the blanket: making the ring and the first rows

Perfect for crochet gift ideas, you'll begin with a small ring, then build rows back and forth. The fabric grows diagonally as each row adds an extra space in the middle.

Make the starting ring

1. Make a slip knot and place it on your hook.
2. Chain 4.
3. Slip stitch into the first chain (right above the slip knot) to form a ring.
4. Hold the yarn tail along the ring (so you crochet over it and secure it as you go).

Now you're ready to build the first stitches into the center of that ring. This center area is ideal for customizing later with appliqué, such as cute puffy hearts.

Row 1 (sets the base)

• Chain 3 (this counts as your first double crochet).
• Work 4 double crochets into the center of the ring, crocheting over the tail.
• Chain 3.
• Turn your work.

At this point, you've formed the first little "corner" that everything grows from. You can enhance it further with appliqué pieces down the line.

Row 2 and Row 3 (the rhythm starts)

Row 2:

• In the first space, work 3 double crochets.
• In the last space (at the end of the row), work 4 double crochets.
• Chain 3, turn.

Row 3:

• In the first space, work 3 double crochets.
• In the next space, work 3 double crochets.
• In the last space, work 4 double crochets.
• Chain 3, turn.

After a couple rows, it starts to look like diagonal granny stitch stripes. From here on out, the repeat is simple and steady.

The one row repeat that builds the blanket fast

Once the setup is done, you'll repeat the same structure while the blanket "steps" wider with each row.

The main repeat (growing phase)

For each row:

• Chain 3 and turn.
• Work 3 double crochets into the first space.
• Work 3 double crochets in every space across the row.
• Work 4 double crochets into the last space.
• Chain 3 and turn to start the next row.

Each row adds one more "middle" space, so the blanket grows automatically.

This is the point where it helps to crochet in a relaxed way. It's repetitive in the best sense. If you want a wider narrow edge, just keep going until one side measures the width you want for the bottom (or the narrow side) of your blanket.

Clean color changes (without knots in the middle of a stitch)

When you're ready to change colors, do it at the end of a row on the last double crochet:

1. Start the last double crochet as normal.
2. Stop before the final pull-through (leave two loops on the hook).
3. Cut the yarn, leaving about a 4-inch tail.
4. Put the new color on the hook and pull through the last two loops to finish the stitch.
5. Hold both tails along the back of the work as you chain 3 to begin the next row.

This clean method ensures no knots show, a tip used in many free crochet patterns.

In the tutorial, the stripe plan was intentionally simple: four rows of each color, with white rows added regularly to break things up, making it ideal for Valentine's Day crochet patterns. White was also used as a "corner" color when shifting from pure growing into shaping, so you can finish a romantic gift by February 14.

If you want another outside explanation of the same diagonal granny stitch idea, this corner-to-corner granny stitch overview is a useful reference.

Shaping the blanket: how to make it a rectangle (or a square)

In corner to corner crochet, the blanket starts as a growing triangle. To turn it into a rectangle or square, you'll begin decreasing on one side (for a rectangle) and eventually on both sides (to finish the top).

Stitch markers make this so much easier. Use a green marker for the grow side, and a red (or any bold color) marker for the stop side.

When to start decreasing

Once one side of your blanket reaches the width you want for the narrow edge, you're ready to stop growing on at least one side.

In the tutorial sample, Christa wanted a rectangle, so she decreased on one side first and kept growing on the other side. Later, she decreased on both sides to close the blanket neatly at the top. This same shaping logic works well for Valentine's Day crochet patterns.

Decreasing on one side (rectangle shaping)

At the decrease side, you'll begin the row differently:

• Chain 3 and turn.
• Skip the first set (skip that first cluster area).
• Work your first 3 double crochets into the first "real" space, not the space you'd normally start in.

Then crochet across as usual. On the grow side, you keep finishing the row with 4 double crochets in the last space. That keeps the rectangle extending in length.

How each decrease row ends (the "straight edge" trick)

When you reach the decrease side at the end of a row:

• Work 3 double crochets in the last real space between clusters.
• In the final space at the edge, work 1 double crochet only.
• Chain 3, turn, then start the next row in the first real space (skipping the edge again).

That "one double crochet" finish is what gives you a clean, straight edge instead of a jagged diagonal.

Gotcha: When you weave in ends later, don't pull too tight along the decrease edge, or you can create a little pucker.

Decreasing on both sides (square finish, or finishing the top)

When you're ready to close the blanket or shape a smaller square version as a crochet pillow pattern, place stop markers on both sides and do the same decrease steps at both ends. Keep going until the top narrows down to just a tiny section.

Near the very end, you'll still follow the same idea: finish with a double crochet and chain 3, turn, and work the last clusters until only one space remains.

At the final point, once you've made that last double crochet and there's nowhere to turn for another row, you'll:

• Make a chain-2 loop,
• Turn the work,
• Slip stitch into the nearby space,
• Chain 1 to secure,
• Cut yarn and pull through to fasten off, leaving a tail long enough to weave in.

If you want a second beginner-friendly explanation of C2C basics (with lots of photos), this C2C crochet guide for beginners can help clarify the shaping logic.

The "Flat and Fabulous" two-round border (optional, but worth it)

You can leave your blanket as-is once all tails are woven in because the edges are already straight. However, the optional border adds a dense frame that feels firm like a potholder and finished. This border style is versatile, making it ideal for larger blankets or smaller items like heart coasters and treat bags.

Border Round 1: granny clusters all the way around

1. Insert your hook into any corner space.
2. Pull up a loop of your border yarn.
3. Slip stitch with both strands to join (let the tail fall along the top edge so you can work over it).
4. Chain 2.
5. Work 2 double crochets into the same corner space (your chain 2 counts as the first double crochet).

Now rotate your work so you can crochet along the edge.

For a puffier variation with added texture, replace the double crochets with puff stitches throughout this round.

For the entire round:

• Work 3 double crochets into every space around the blanket (even tiny spaces still get 3 double crochets).

At each corner:

• Work 3 double crochets, chain 2, then 3 double crochets all into the same corner space.

When you get back to the start corner, complete the corner the same way (3 double crochets, chain 2), then slip stitch into the top of the starting chain to join.

Border Round 2: back loop slip stitches for a braided edge

This round tightens the border and creates that subtle "braided" look. The puff stitch variation from Round 1 pairs beautifully with these slip stitches for enhanced texture.

• Slip stitch into the back loop only of each stitch all the way around.

At each chain-2 corner space:

• Slip stitch into the back loop of the first chain,
• Chain 1,
• Slip stitch into the back loop of the second chain,

Then continue with back loop slip stitches down the next side.

Finishing with an invisible join

At the end, cut your yarn, pull the tail through, and thread it on a needle. To make the join look seamless:

• Pass the needle under the first real slip stitch of the round.
• Then bring the needle back down into the same stitch where your yarn came from.
• Snug it gently so it looks like one continuous stitch.

Weave in both tails with a light touch so the edge stays flat. This flat and fabulous border works perfectly on heart coasters or treat bags too.

Size, stripes, and helpful next steps

Custom sizing is simple because the blanket is controlled by row count:

• Grow until the narrow side is the width you want.
• Decrease one side longer for a rectangle.
• Decrease both sides to finish.

If you're a left-handed crocheter, the video description links a playlist that can help you follow along in a way that feels natural: left-handed crochet tutorials playlist.

Want more diagonal granny ideas for smaller projects like Valentine's Day decorations? A few colorful squares can help you get comfortable with the look and the shaping, and this diagonal granny square tutorial fits that role nicely. Use them to craft a heart garland as a matching accessory for the blanket, adding charm to your Valentine's Day decorations.

Next, explore a crochet heart pattern as a recommended follow-up project, or make amigurumi small toys that can accompany the blanket beautifully. Pair it with a heart garland for extra festive flair, and check out Tunisian crochet tutorials for different textures compared to this granny style. Another great crochet heart pattern option rounds out your collection of Valentine's Day decorations.

To keep up with new tutorials from the channel, you can use the links provided in the video description: Secret Yarnery YouTube subscription link and channel membership link.

Conclusion

This Easy Granny Stitch Corner to Corner Blanket stands out among free crochet patterns as the kind of project you can pick up after dinner and keep moving without thinking too hard. One of the top free crochet patterns for beginners, it keeps the repeat simple, the edges neat, and the optional border adds a strong, finished frame in just two rounds. As a standout in Valentine's Day crochet patterns, it's perfect for creating heartfelt designs, and you'll love how it fits right in with other free crochet patterns. If you try it, choose colors that make you happy, mark your grow and stop sides, and enjoy watching that diagonal granny stitch build into a handmade valentine gift or cozy home decor piece you'll actually use.

Explore these related Valentine's Day crochet patterns and more: crochet heart keychain, coffee cozy, amigurumi heart, amigurumi heart plushies, crochet heart pattern, crochet pillow pattern, and crochet baby blanket.

Left Handed?

FAQs

1) Is this Granny Stitch C2C Blanket beginner-friendly?

Yes. The blanket body is the same simple repeat: chain 3, turn, then work 3 double crochets into each space across. While you are still growing, you end each row with 4 double crochets in the last space.

2) What does “C2C” mean in crochet?

C2C means corner-to-corner. Your project starts small and grows diagonally. You add width by increasing each row, then shape it into a rectangle or square by decreasing.

3) How do I know when to start decreasing?

Start decreasing when one side reaches the width you want for the narrow edge of your blanket. For a rectangle, decrease on one side first and keep growing on the other side. Later, decrease on both sides to close the top.

4) How do I keep the edges straight in granny stitch C2C?

The straight edge comes from two habits:

• Use stitch markers to label the grow side and the stop (decrease) side.
• On decrease rows, finish the row with 3 double crochets in the last real space, then 1 double crochet in the final edge space. That last single double crochet helps keep the edge neat.

5) Do I have to add the flat, braided border?

No. The blanket can be finished without a border because the edges are already tidy. The two-round border is optional, but it adds weight, firmness, and a polished frame.

6) Why does Border Round 2 use back loop only slip stitches?

Back loop only slip stitches create a tighter edge and a subtle braided look. It also helps the border sit flatter and feel more sturdy.

7) What yarn works best for this pattern?

Worsted weight (size 4) acrylic is a great choice for an easy-care blanket. You can also use other fibers, but try to keep the same yarn weight across all colors so the fabric stays even.

8) What hook size should I use?

Use the hook size that gives you a fabric you like. In the tutorial, 6 mm and 12 mm hooks were used. If your blanket feels stiff, go up a hook size. If it feels too loose, go down a size.

9) How much yarn do I need?

It depends on blanket size, yarn brand, and your tension. The sample used about 800 g total for the blanket body and about 70 g for the border. If you plan a larger blanket, buy extra to avoid dye lot issues.

10) How do I change colors cleanly at the end of a row?

On the last double crochet of the row, stop before the final pull-through (leave two loops on the hook). Pull through with the new color to finish the stitch, then chain 3 with the new color and turn.

11) My decrease edge is puckering. What’s causing it?

Most often it happens from weaving in ends too tightly along the decrease side, or pulling your chain-3 turns too snug. Weave ends gently and aim for consistent tension on the edge stitches.

12) Can I make this blanket a square instead of a rectangle?

Yes. Keep increasing until the blanket reaches the width you want, then place stop markers on both sides and begin decreasing on both ends of each row until the top closes.

Christa Patel is the creator behind The Secret Yarnery, where she shares crochet tutorials that focus on simple repeats, clear steps, and projects you can actually finish and use. Her patterns often include beginner-friendly tips for cleaner edges, stress-free color changes, and sturdy borders, so your finished crochet looks polished without feeling complicated.